r3dplanet

From the paperwork it looks like you can swap any engine from the same make/model year familyso long as it was an optional choice for the US market. For example, you could legally swap in a KA24 engine from 1987 if you really felt like it because both are 1st gen WD21 models. But since I'm basically swapping the same engine with an ODB 1 system so nobody is going to know or care. Oregon doesn't have vehicle inspections at all except for air pollution. So long as the VG33EE pollutes the same or less as the VG30E within a certain percentage I'll be fine. In the past my Pathfinder has sailed right through emissions testing without a whimper. In and out in ten minutes, no big deal. Otherwise you need to let your vehicle just get old enough. My other cars are all older than 1971, and the State cutoff is 1973. So when my Pathfinder eventually turns 50 it will become exempt. Anyway, it's clear that Oregon is simply following Federal guidelines so this likely applies to every state. I'm not bitchy about because I've been through this once before when I tried to import a 2005 VW Golf TDI (turbo diesel) that a Canadian friend gave to me. I fixed it all up but no go. The Feds (Border Patrol) were not having it. I got paperwork from VW of Canada showing that it met (exceeded) US EPA and safety standards but they didn't care. So I sold the whole car to a guy in Vancouver BC and used the money to buy another Golf TDI in Seattle that wasn't as good. Basically the Feds are very suspicious of Diesel, even though I run biodiesel and take the smog equipment somewhat seriously. Ah well. No fighting them. If any given engine was never sold domestically in the States, you can't legally swap it. No EPA approval, no swap.

Hey gang. The Diesel conversion is a moot point. I emailed the Oregon DMV about a swap and they gave me a solid response: "Unfortunately foreign engines are not approved for use in the US. If 1995 Pathfinders were imported with that engine you could absolutely do it, but the fact that Nissan never had that engine approved by the EPA it can’t be used in any vehicle. I’ve included a copy of the EPA’s engine switching fact sheet so you can review it. If you have any other questions about engine swaps please feel free to contact me." So there it is straight from the horse's mouth. Onward to the VG33E!

The Cummins 4BT is cool as b@lls, but they weigh a lot. As in 750 pounds. I'm tilting toward the TD27T just because it has less electronics. If the QD32ETI ECU just controls the fuel system, then great. I just don't know about ABS, CC, etc. I'll keep reading. People talk about Isuzu 3.0 Diesels but I don't see any examples of that.

I haven't seen that write up, but I'll look some more. And yes, parts availability is my hesitancy point. I'll see if I can find some random parts from Canadian or Mexican parts sites. It's intriguing but I'm not a masochist.

I posed this in the Diesel forum but it makes sense to update it here also. I called someone at a JDM engine importer and guess what? They have both a TD27T (68k miles) and a QD32ETI (59k miles). Both come with a 5-speed gearbox and I could have my choice for $2700 + $200 shipping to Portland. Steep but ultimately worth the cost over long term fuel savings. I have even less of an idea of what it would take to get one of those to install. Tank, ECU, fuel filler neck, and tach for sure. Clearly on my own for a harness.. but how complicated could a Diesel harness even be? Just theoretically which of the two would be the easiest swap? The TD27T is a bit under powered but it seems like it would be the easiest swap since they were obviously fitted into the WD21. What says the community? Presumably I'd need a matching ECU for either? There's a QD32ETI ECU for $99 on ebay... Ugh. Why did these have to be an option once I was all set to get a VG33E? And why oh why didn't Nissan give a turbo Diesel option here in the US? For the weight of the WD21 a Diesel is a natural choice. Ah well.

Hey gang. I need to swap out the engine in my '95 WD21Pathfinder. I always wanted to swap out the engine with a TD27T. I've been prepping instead for a VG33E swap since the Nissan Diesel engines are very rare here in the US. Just as I'm about to pull the trigger on a VG33E, I suddenly found an importer who has both a TD27T and a QD32ETI. Both come with a 5-speed gearbox and I could have my choice for $2700. Steep but ultimately worth the cost over long term fuel savings. Just theoretically which of the two would be the easiest swap? The TD27T is a bit under powered but it seems like it would be the easiest Diesel swap. What says the community? I'm mostly worried about the wiring. Presumably I'd need a matching ECU for either? Cheers.

Right. I swapped out my motor mounts about six months ago. Well, my friend Danny did it. We had to modify the mounts to make them fit. No idea why they didn't fit out of the box but the parts guy warned us about it in advance. Ugh. I gave one last look around for a TD27T engine and found a couple. But at $3K and without easy access to parts it's a gamble. And an expensive one give the lack of ancillaries, ECU, etc. I lick my chops at the thought of 23+ mpg and I always fancied a Diesel swap, but I think it's just too far afield. So a VG33E it shall be. JDM importers have them in abundance. The two I have my search narrowed to each want about a grand for a low mileage, "tested" engine. That's agreeable. Big thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. It really cleared up everything for me. Going ahead with the project will be so much less baffling. Thanks a million.

Fan-TAS-tic. I have a much better idea of what I need to do. I work super slow and winter is coming, so I might do this next Spring. Maybe over the winter. Not sure yet, but it needs to get done. I might also pull the trigger on a 5-speed. The automatic is just fine, I just prefer a manual. Plus, you know, while I'm in there... Amended list: 1. VG30E camshafts if possible 2. A/C hoses remade with correct fittings 3. Xterra oil pickup from '99-'04 4. Frontier / Xterra VG33E accessories, from '99-'04 5. Nissan Quest / Villager alternator, from '99-'03 (V41 Quest / Villager, 120 amp) 6. Nissan Quest / Villager alternator needs pulley swapped to VG30E pulley, via nissannut 7. VG30 original oil pan 8. Check for 10mm exhaust holes in the manifolds, enlarge to 10mm if necessary 9. VG30E intake manifold 10. VG30E intake manifold gasket, quoted from other thread, "The VG30 gaskets are a piece of steel sheet about 1/16" thick with neoprene seals snapped into them. [...] If you've got a VG30 intake run thick gaskets!" 11. VG30E distributor, coil 12. Change fuel injector connectors to fit VG30E harness, adapt as needed 13. Gaskets, hoses, etc.

My guess for Xterra parts is the early one, 1999-2001? Or is that wrong?

Slarti, Mr. Reverse, Aegis, you guys rock. Your contributions provide excellent information. It gets very confusing about what to disregard and what to seek. I'm putting together a plan that starts with what I hope are a complete list of changes. My plan will be to get an engine (I'm actually about the pull the trigger on one), dig all the way to the timing belt and change it, replace any pumps/accessories that look worn. My usual luck is that I do a job like this and then something like the water pumps leaks everywhere. I just want to get it prepped and secure before installation. Running list of changes: 1. VG30E camshafts (anyone know where to buy new ones? The Nissan dealer says I'm SOL) 2. A/C hoses, check. I know a good hose guy locally. 3. Xterra oil pickup (which years?) 4. Frontier / Xterra VG33E accessories, check. (also which years?) 5. Nissan Quest / Villager alternator (years?) 6. VG30 original oil pan 7. Check for 10mm exhaust holes in the manifolds, enlarge to 10mm if necessary ... good list. Am I missing anything? What about wiring? ECU? Distributor? Intake? I'm just trying to be as complete as possible for both me and future readers. You guys are great. I wouldn't even attempt this without all the great info you all have provided. Cheers!

Indeed. I read the whole thread today and tried to keep above the conflicting morass. I could be dead wrong, but it looks like the easiest method is: 1. Get a VG33E engine and strip it down to the block and heads, no ancillaries. 2. Install a VG30 crank and that's it for the bottom end. 3. Install VG30 camshafts into the VG33E heads using the matching style of cam gear 4. Install the original VG30 bits. From what I infer that leaves it so everything else - pump, intake, exhaust, wiring, belts, alternator is all bolt-on stuff from the original VG30. Does that sound correct? Seems like I'm missing something with regards to oil filter and pump.

Yeah, looking around car-part.com there's a ton of engines to choose from. If I go with a VG33E, should I get an early one like a '96 or '97? I think I read, but now can't remember, that accessories were easier to deal with.

Gentlemen, Thank you all for the valuable replies. It's great information to consider. My first thought is to drive to Montreal to visit SpecialWarr, but that is two long drives from Portland, Oregon and back. I've done it before (Toronto) but it's a bit unlikely. His offer is true chivalry. The key in this is that my health isn't great, and I need to keep it easy. I'll ask my engine builder friend about rebuilding the bottom end of my engine and then pricing out the heads. I'd prefer to do a whole VG33E swap but my thought is that it might be a lot of work to get all the ancillaries. I'll have to do some price comparisons and find out. Thank you for the link to car-part.com. That's good information also. At this point my Pathfinder isn't my daily driver like it once was, so I'm in no hurry to take care of it. The danger is that on previous engine swap projects the scope creep can get out of control and take a looooong time to finish. Thank you, everyone. I have to ask some questions and crunch some numbers. Can anyone point me to a complete VG33E swap thread or site? I've read through a few, but are from too long ago or don't finish the swap. Cheers, Red

Hey gang. I've owned my '95 Pathfinder for a long time and it's a great buddy. It's in very good shape - no rust, runs well, and it's a fully equipped model with rear discs and all. But it has 350,000 miles and it's really burning oil now. It's just time to do something about it. Instead of selling it I'd like to replace the engine. An engine builder friend of mine says it's too expensive to rebuild, and maybe I should "just" swap it for a VG33E instead. So my question is what is the least resistance path to take? I'm a gearhead with the ability to crane engines around, but lack wiring knowledge with ECUs and harnesses. A TD27 swap sounds cool but unrealistic. Where can I get a decent VG33E if that's the correct thing to do? I'm sort of at a crossroads and not sure how to proceed. Thanks for listening to me think out loud.

Okay, thanks. I'll look into it. "JDM Import" seems to be a variation for hundred websites. More of a generic term. Can you remember exactly where? I'll look around. Thank you, peeps.

Thank you. I don't want to spend more than $2K-2.5k, but I don't know what's reasonable. I found a couple of "rebuilds" on eBay, but with crappy user ratings and no idea how the work was really done. I'm used to rebuilding air cooled engines, but I've never built anything like the VG30E. I've built both Corvair and Porsche engines, and each cost about $5k. But my engine rebuilder friend rebuilt the 360 V8 from my Barracuda for $1500. So in my mind prices are all over the place. What sort of extras and bolt-ons did you use?

Hi. So overall my '95 Pathfinder is in great shape. No rust, everything works, just some aging. But the engine is pushing 375,000 miles and it's starting to go. It leaks oil from everywhere, oil consumption is high, and compression is starting to fade. But I love the vehicle and I don't want to get rid of it. I talked to my engine builder friend about rebuilding the engine and he said it costs a fortune. To be clear, he isn't just a friend - he builds engines for a living. Okay. So I looked into doing a VG33 swap, but that looks like a bunch of odd work with hard to get parts at this stage in the game. No quite plug-and-play as I thought. A Diesel TD27ti or QD32e would be cool, but it's basically impossible to import a low-mileage Diesel engine along with everything I would need for a swap. Plus, whenever a part fails it's expensive and time consuming to replace. So in terms of ease, cost, and longevity what would be the best strategy to do a swap / rebuild / do-over? If it makes any difference I'd like to get rid of the automatic gearbox and swap it with a 5-speed. Thanks for opining.

I have not. Will message you.

Fantastic. These links are good resources. Also, thank you for the heads up on the plenum headache. Oy. One day I'll transplant in a Diesel with simplified wiring.

Hi. While swapping out my spark plug wires I found that some of my injector wires (under the manifold of course) have been stripped of the shielding and a lot of bare wire is showing. So I need another injector harness. Does anyone know where to find one? I'm not seeing them in the usual online parts fiche. I figure if I'm in there I might as well pop out the injectors and either replace them with new or rebuild them. Is there any conventional wisdom on which way to go? Cheers!

One would think, right? The service manual shows the ASCD module down by the hood release, but isn't. There's no fuse in the fuse panel for the cruise, either. I would never have thought to tear open the body moulding to look for the ASCD unit, but I'll see if I can pop it out and have a look. Thank you for that.

The title pretty much says it. I'm trying to figure out why my cruise dash indicator blinks whenever I enable the cruise control. The schematics show a fuse (but I can't find it) and an ASCD computer module (but I can't find that, either). Can anyone tell me where to find these gems? Thanks!

Hello. On my '95 Pathfinder I have a cruise control failure unlike those I've had before. When I push the button on the left side of the dash to enable the cruise control the dash indicator just blinks "CRUISE" in green. The little green light on the cruise switch itself stays solid. It doesn't matter how I fiddle with the buttons, it just won't stop blinking. Here's what I've done so far: * pulled the steering wheel, machined new brass "brushes" and ensured that they made contact with the circular copper plates. The horn works fine. When I push the set, cancel, resume buttons the blinking "CRUISE" light is interfered and wobbles while continuing to blink. That tells me that the buttons are connected. The meter agrees. * Swapped the vacuum line from the module under the hood. * Pulled the cancel switch next to the brake switch and tested it with a meter. It works fine. If I jumper the two pins on the connector the cruise light still blinks. Also, the rubber pads for both the release and brake switches are the new green type. * Checked to see if pushing the brake pedal has any effect on the blinking dash light. It does not. According to the manual (page EL-71, Diagnostic Procedure 8) if the cruise indicator (not sure if means the green light on the switch itself or the dash "CRUISE" indicator) continues to blink with the brakes gently applied it terminates at adjusting the cancel switch on the brake pedal. I've already done that, so.. So, I'm out of ideas. Does anyone brainier than me have any more ideas of what this could be? Or anything else I could check? Thanks! -Red

Hmm. Thermostat and fins, you say. I'll go through all of that and report back. Thanks! -Red

Peeps, Now that it's beginning to warm up outside (read: repeated record hot days nearly every day) my '95 Pathfinder doesn't dig the heat. Specifically, when the outside air temperature is 60F (16C) or below everything looks good. The engine (coolant?) temp gauge always reads at about 1/4 from cold. It warms up nicely within a mile or two starting out and the cabin heater works great. The temps never go beyond that even if climbing over steeps hills on the highway. But on warm Spring and especially hot Summer days the gauge shoots right up. Although it never reaches the little danger line at the top of the gauge, it does hover in the upper third, especially on the highway on steep inclines or when stuck in rush hour traffic. If the A/C is on it really adds heat. When rushing downhill on the highway to cooler temps, the gauge falls to about 1/8 from the bottom. It never used to do this until about a year ago, and then I forgot about it over the Winter. The clutch fan seems to operate correctly: in the morning I can spin the fan by hand, when it's hot it's much harder to spin. There's no lateral play and it makes no unusual noise. I did flush the radiator a couple of years back and added a bypass cooler just for the autotragic transmission. Any guidance? Thanks, Red