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Posts posted by jeph
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cool thanks guys im going to do the rebuild this weekend and then study on how hard it is to change out the hydraulic lifters because im positive a few of mine on the passenger side are not working, looks like they shouldnt be to hard to change.
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okay so the trans in my pathfinder is going to go out any day now, the bearings inside it are soo blown, and cant even use 5th gear because the bearing is so loud.
my question is, i have a trans from a nissan hardbody that was v6 and 4wd and same year, this trans will work on my pathy right?
also before i put the trans in i want to replace every bearing inside it just to be safe, has anyone taken one of these apart on here with some pics? i cant find any on here or google would probably help if i knew the tranny code.
any help appreciated thanks!
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did this job over the weekend, thanks for the write up!
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okay so i found out the centerlink i bought was for a 94 pathfinder and they wont let me return it.. so can i just use inner tie rod ends for a 94 so they fit inside the centerlink the right way? easier to buy new tie rod ends then a new 127$ centerlink for my year.
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any way i can use the large taper one? should i order inner tie rods ends for a different vehicle?
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okay so i have a 1989 v6 4wd pathy, i recently bought all new ball joints and tie rod ends and tension rod bushings, i replaced everything and for some reason my inner tie rod ends are loose inside the center link has anyone ever had this problem??
center link is brand new and all joints are new but even when i tighten the inner tie rod ends with a impact gun i can still wiggle the ball joint shaft inside the center link like the center link hole was too big?
my question is did they send me the wrong center link? or are the ball joints too small?
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alright so now im stumped. i changed every single ball joint and bushing and tie rod ends and centerlink and my wheels still wont stay alligned. after i looked closely the inner tie rods where they bolt into the centerlink are loose even tho i tightened them with impact gun. so im thinking i got the wrong centerlink because the holes are too big?
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I also forgot to mention, could it be a bearing? Or do the parts on the inside move with it?
when i move the wheel the inner and outer tie rod ball joints move like half inch before the centerlink starts to move and its also brand new oem only 2 days old. im going to replace all tie rod ends tomarrow and install the new bushings and see what happenes since upper and lower ball joints diddnt help.
also im having a big camber issue from the lift ive seen people put washers behind the upper control arm to bring it out does that work right?
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Compression rods. Or have them show you a picture of the lower control arm set up and then point and the part that goes from the lca to the frame. (Runs to back of the truck.)
They should be able to figure it out. If not. Try a different store. Lol. We have three, two napas, and multiple others. If I don't like the answer from one place, I choose another.
i fount out at baxter auto parts that they call it strut rod bushing, i got some moog ones i believe their poly so should be better.
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uca/lca bushings and or compression/tension rod bushings.
im going to replace all those tomarrow and see how it is after that
is there another name for the tension rod bushings? autozone and orilleys cant seem to locate them at all.
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I move mine for about 8 or so mm and then the wheel turns, have you checked some parts in your column? Look at what parts turn and the which don't, that should lead to the problem.
its not the steering box or column but for example i can wiggle the left wheel about a inch before the right wheel moves. so when im driving the toe just goes in and out all by its self. like if i do an alignment and drive around the block its off by few inches and nothing is loose lol
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so ive been having huge problems with the pathfinder lately. i put a new centerlink and ball joints and i still get the problem of one wheel moving about a inch or 2 before the other wheel moves.
when its in the air i can grab one wheel and move it left to right about a inch or 2 and it wont make the other wheel move. the steering system on these trucks is retarded.
anyone ever had this problem?
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nice going to try this on my pathfinder
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lol nice videos, and yes the links worked. yea once those tires get a little air thats when they break. I cant believe you have no issues with sucking in water?! ive hydro locked a few of my pathys multiple times lol.
thanks yeah no problems yet i took the hose off the cleaner that goes to the fenderwell so no water can come in that way and just been running open air cleaner, was going to make a snorkel but i dont think these tbi injected motors will run well with all that extra pipe added to the air cleaner. but worth a try i guess.
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had some more fun this weekend. ended up with a bent tie rod at the end of the day but not bad.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=579216798798486&l=6250845249569921105
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=579224735464359&l=6908384696004547785
i donno if links will work. if they do click HQ and it should come in better
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Exactly what I was going to post and should have in the first place. Another item to check out and reinforce is the idler arm. You can rebuild it with the factory plastic bushings and reinforce it with a brace like the AC version.
Yes, that should give you some stright wheel tracking, not to mention longevity...
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cool i found the idler arm brace on 4x4parts for only 30$ so ill purchase that soon after all the new ball joints and centerlink.
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and thats probably why i can never get my allignment right ive done it over and over and after a drive its always off after i double check it.
and its probably why when im wheeling my friends are like your front wheels move around alot!
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yeah so i checked the centerlink and it moves alot and i mean alot.. i can move the passenger wheel left and right about half inch before the steering box even moves. so i take it my centerlink is shot.. what actually goes bad on them? and could i bake a strong one? looks simple.
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At least 1/2, if not most of them do. You can even rebuild it with an extra clutch plate so the break away force is roughly doubled. Only down side is that if you decide you want a locker instead, you will have to source an open diff rear, or at least 3rd member.
Glad you like and are impressed by your new rig. Credit where credit is due though, you must know how to drive it as well. Keep the picts and vids coming, we watch them...
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yeah im very impressed ive had like 3 jeep cherokees and 2 grand cherokees and a few lifted isuzu rodeos and this pathfinder has been then funnest so far i dont even know why lol, anything i try to just go for it just plows right threw lol its crazy. this weekend im changing all front ball joints and bushings because mine are so bad its not even funny lol.
been trying to find what shocks people use with JGC springs i havent been able to find that out. mine are too short i believe.
and i think next week im gunna tackle the horrible exhaust leaks comming from everywhere! lol hopefully the tick is comming from that.
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im at 300,870 in a 89 with a lifter tick/exhaust leak from hell lol can still pull jeeps out of ditches all day.
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also found out today while installing my springs why it does so well in the trails, was happy to see the diff had a little orange sticker that said LSD! diddnt know they came with that.
If you have a 2 Door Pathfinder could you post a pic
in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
i usually buy rock sliders from a toyota like Trail gear ones or buy steel tubing and make my own.