elkootcho

upon closer inspection it appears burnt. Must have been resting directly on the exhaust.

When I was under that truck replacing an o2 sensor I noticed what appears to be a ground wire that has frayed and is no longer connected to anything. Does anyone know what this is so I can replace it?

I successfully changed the o2 sensor and installed a new battery. The SES light is off (no pending codes) but the truck is still in limp mode. I had the battery disconnected over night and tried all the ECU reset tricks but no luck. Any ideas? At least I think it's limp mode. The truck shifts through 1st and 2nd and then revs very high until it jumps into 4th. Seems to bypass 3rd completely.

0138 is about 1 week old and today I got 0325 (Knock Sensor) which put the truck into limp mode. This happened about a year ago when I had to replace the same 02 sensor on Bank 2 and the knock sensor problem went away. I think this is the correct one to get to replace Bank 1, Sensor 2: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=279514&cc=1364138 BOSCH Part # 13264 OE Style Oxygen Sensor; Heated; Wires: 4; Length (in): 32.7 Downstream Right; RWD; Bosch is the OE equivalent supplier; From 01/2000 Downstream Right; RWD; Automatic trans.; Bosch is the OE equivalent supplier; To 12/1999 Downstream Right; 4WD; Automatic trans.; Bosch is the OE equivalent supplier Does this appear to be the correct sensor?

Can someone link me to the proper O2 sensor? 2000 Pathfinder (mauf. date: 1/00) P0138 - Bank 1 Sensor 2 This is passenger side, after cat converter, correct? Thank you.

I wanted to close the thread by saying that the Pathfinder passed smog after I got the timing right and the TPS reinstalled correctly. Thank you again for the help.

So, I pushed these 2 green arrows to unhook the wire harnesses from my TPS. How do I get them to reengage when I reattached the harness? (see image) https://www.dropbox.com/s/5q2cal4vrsmhquc/PF_Connex.jpg

Update: I got a reading of .4 with the throttle fully closed. Fully open: .4 (no change) This made me look at the simple mechanics of what was going on and the answer was embarassingly simple. When I install the new TPS the tab on the inside was not properly engaged with the throttle bar that would cause it to rotate upon acceleration. Stupid mistake. I reinstalled the TPS, rechecked with the multimeter and got readings of .5 up to about 4.12. I performed the key sequence ON 5 sec, OFF 10 sec (20 times), turned off the check engine light and took it for 2 laps around the block. The light did not come back on (previously, it would turn on as soon as I backed out of the driveway) and the transmission was out of fail-safe mode. Seems to be running much more smoothly than previously. Now, fingers crossed it passes smog next week. Precise1: thanks for the encouragement. I was ready to throw in the towel but took a step back and took a breath. For future knowledge, there is a very helpful step-by-step guide that I found here: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/nissan/3.0L-3.3L-3.5L/throttle-position-sensor-tests-1

Thanks for the help. I'm going to give it another shot, starting from scratch. What setting should my multimeter be on for all these readings?

I think so, I checked multiple times and the pointer is right at the second notch from the right.

Looks like this is above my pay grade. Confused...to say the least. Anyone know an affordable Nissan mechanic in the Los Angeles area? Also, will pulling the neg battery terminal allow the computer to "relearn" the TPS position? I'm not sure if I'm doing it properly with the whole "key on, key off" thing.

found it on EC114

Thanks for the link. I assumed that the TPS was a simple bolt-on item. Here's were I remain confused: How do I RESET THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR IDLE POSITION MEMORY? The manual instructs on the usage of CONSULT (obviously, I ain't got that!).

Also, pathfinder wants to stall on initial start up (never had this problem until now). I touch of gas and it idles.

2000 Pathfinder SE My check engine light has been on for a while giving me an O2 sensor code. I swapped that out and reset the light in order to get the car smogged. The light remained off for several weeks. Car failed smog but showed timing to be at 21. Today I removed the Throttle Position Sensor and adjusted the timing to 15. As I was reinstalling the TPS the plastic cracked as it seemed to become very brittle over time. Car immediately threw P0120 (- Faulty Throttle Position Sensor, - Throttle Position Sensor circuit is open or shorted, - Throttle Position Sensor poor electrical connection I purchased a new TPS at autozone and cleared the code. Light immediately came back on. The car now has a rough hesitation at low RPM and very little power. If I floor the gas pedal the RPM to doesn't jump into the red and acceleration is very sluggish. Any ideas?

Curious about this...photos would be great

I thought about drilling a hole. Where is the transponder located? I'm afraid I'll ruin the key.

So, I only have 1 key to my 2000 Pathfinder and the loop at the top is broken so I cannot carry it on a key chain Local dealer says $100 for a key and $90 to program it to the car. I was in Lowes today to get house keys made and they can make a Nissan transponder key for $75. Have any of you had keys made anywhere other than the dealer? Does it need to be "programmed"? How exactly does this work?

So, I successfully replaced the bushings in my 2000 PF trailing arms. Now it's time for shocks and struts. I have a question regarding the struts. In addition to the strut itself, do I also need to replace the strut mount? 125000 miles and they've never been changed.

I made this repair today. Overall it took me about 4 hours. The biggest pain is getting the metal ring from the old bushing out using a hammer and chisel. My advice: beg, borrow or steal a large compressor and use an air chisel. But...the test ride absolutely got rid of the death wobble. Thanks to everyone who shared their experience. Made the task mush more manageable and saved me hundreds by doing to myself. Next project: shocks.

Thanks for the reply. High Mileage oil sounds like the way to go for me for me...off to Walmart!

What oil (weight and brand) would you recommend for 2000 Pathfinder with 125k miles? SoCal weather (90-105 degree summers), typical city driving. Does oil marketed as "high mileage" really make a difference?

I realize this is an old thread but I'm getting ready to replace my lower bushings this weekend (2000 Pathfinder LE). I bought poly 2-piece bushings with bolts from 4x4parts.com. Assuming that all goes well, how tight do I need to get the new nuts upon reassembly? I cannot find any torque specs. Thanks