rbaum94

So my pathy fog lights burned out, so I went to go find new bulbs in my tool shed and I found Two new working fog lights! The only problem is that they just barely fit into the inserts because of the design of where the screws go in. So what I was thinking on doing was use a dremel to file the excess plastic away to free some space to fit in the inserts in the bumper. So my question for you guys is if you have any tips for me while I do this or if you know of other (better probably haha) ideas that may work instead of me just using a dremel on these babys. The dimesions are about 5in L 1in H about 2.5in H Also I have these clips that the screws for the foglights eventually went on (pics shown) Thanks!

Anyone have pics or a how to on the taurus fans on a pathy? My dad did his about half a year ago on his dodge ram v9 and I really like the setup it has.

I guess nobody has significant knowledge on this?

So I haven't been able to take a video due to my video recording hardware being utter crap.. But I feel like i explained it pretty well. Can anyone help me here?

I'll probably have something up tomorrow morning Just picture this, pretend as if you're doing it as the manual states at the part where you're supposed to let go of the programming button, I just get the one second interval beeps, no introductory, no 5 burst, just one second beeps. which happens either way if i continue to hold it down or let go I have no idea why, it used to work just fine. Also it happens either way if the doors are all closed or not..

unfortunately not, my problem isn't listed in the diagnostics..

Ive been trying to program my remote, i follow the steps in the fsm cycle on to off press and hold the program button at that part instead of doing the intro beeps and the fast beeps, it just does the one second beeps. thats it, no change and eventually just stops, then it just holds the beep sound until i cycle the programming off.. I've tried this with the doors closed and still does the same thing. The room lamp fuse is in good Also, it literally was working perfectly before i decided i wanted to program a new key remote.. doh HELP!! .-.

I fixed it, Completely operational and easy to open/close! For those of you that don't know and have hard to open boxes, try bending the rectangle metal latch that the box latches onto. I bent mine a little upward and tighten the screws a little and voila! Easy to open and close =]

hmmm

Yeah, I figured it out, I just had to carefully slick the plastic piece on the back of the lock cylinder that leads into the mechanism carefully out of its spot and grab the spring before it can bounce around everywhere. Only now I've encountered a new problem, My glove box opens and closes and locks now, but I kind of have to push in with a little force to open and close the box. Any reason for this?

My glove box latch broke (latch and lock cylinder) broke (on the latch part) with the little piece that makes it hold the box and the dash together. I went to my local lkq and got the exact same one by pure stroke of luck! I found one in a maxima that was exactly the same.. only problems.. the latch is brown.. also the cylinders take different keys.. so I want to use the piece from the good latch i found and fix mine.. What I'm getting at is, is there something in the fsm or something about the assembly of the latch so i can figure out how to successfully take it apart without breaking it? Thanks in advance. Rick

I am now requesting pictures on the location on the speed sensor, and if my cruise control switch is faulty, a picture of that so I know what I need to go get. =p

okay it seems we are in a confusion, how do i test the cruise control switch? and what switch is it that i am testing? the button on the vent has a green led, but i do not get the cruise light on the cluster when trying to engage it. now are you talking about the buttons on the steering wheel as a switch? or the wire that is near the break pedal?

The switch has a 10mm bolt on it though, am i looking at the wrong thing?

How do i remove the switch? Just curious before i get a chance to test it

Ahh i dont get the cruise light near the speedometer. Only on the light under the vent

Okay, so I checked out the brake pedal, the green rubber stopper is still on the right most button, (and my screw and bolt are still on the button that engages my stoplight) and the button is being striked by the green rubber stopper. The cruise control light comes on and my horn works, but the buttons seem to do absolutely nothing.. Thoughts?

Another thing I forgot to mention, My wiper fluid sprayers wont shoot, when I engage the sprayer, the wipers move but no fluid gets sprayed out. Thoughts? Sorry for being a newbie, Its the first real car I've ever taken seriously and am learning as I go and I've learned a lot so far and I'm in love with working on my own vehicle! *would really hate having to work on anyone else's though haha*

That rubber pad on the break peddal is gone.. If you mean the rubber thing that went there to engage the stop light to come on (it was originally gone so I have a nut and bolt through that hole to make the stop light work) Yes the light does come on but the buttons just do not work as to accelerating and such. No leaks from the hoses.. How would i check the contacts on the steering wheel?

Although I have changed out and repaired a hell of a lot on my pathy, I still have a few more bugs to work out before its golden. When I was given my pathy, the cruise control didn't work. I want to find out why and what to do but I don't know where to start? I think it could be a missing relay because I'm missing one on of the three that are on the drivers side of the engine bay, the one thats a beige color and in the middle of the two If I remember correctly. Also on a few side note questions for the sake of not spamming the forum, My speed sensor fails every once in a while and the check engine light comes on for it. It does work properly I believe when the car is warmed up, but sometimes it will stay not working for quite a while before engaging. I was wondering what that could possibly be? Another question is that sometimes when I'm in idle with the AC on, the idle rev will drop to 0 for a second (like sputtering every once in a while) and I was wondering what that could be? MAF sensor maybe? Thanks guys, I really love this forum! Also my pathy is 1994 XE-V6 213K miles and still kickin'!

The shrink leather on the head liner panels was losing its stick and its near impossible to get those things to take shape again. I just sanded them down a bit and got some Rustoleum metallic gray spray pain and painted them up, looks freaking sweet! I'll get a pic up tomorrow

Pain in the f@#$ing a** when I had to do it. My father gave me the truck as my first vehicle, but left it up to me to fix it up (same year and everything) and I had to change the starter to get it running right, for some reason when I turned the key, it wouldn't even crank even though the battery was good. Starter failed voltage tests got a new one and guess what.. Still didn't crank. Had to find the wiring into the ignition and solder a wire there to get it to start. Just keep a good attitude and you'll take care of your pathy When I changed the starter, I got it jacked up a little and always remember to connect the wire after its in place.. or else you're going to be cursing up a storm when you have to take it out and try again.

where is the speed sensor located on my 94 Pathfinder? For some reason it decides to not work sometimes as if it gets stuck.. the cel comes on for it but goes off when it decides to work.

Alright cool Also I think i found a hose with an oil/gas deposit, not sure yet. Can anyone confirm what this hose is? Its to the bottom right of the fan in the bay. http://tinypic.com/r/15f2muw/6

Alright, I cleaned the maf and the codes went away. I just have a couple more questions. What rpm is the truck supposed to idle at? In neutral i was getting a little over 1 and in drive i was getting a little under 1. after warming up a bit both became a little under 1. Is that normal?