Alexey_Maruschak
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Posts posted by Alexey_Maruschak
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Russian team rally R50: "Tecnosport"
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I know only two sites with a huge amount of knowledge and dedicated to Pathfinder / Terrano / QX4 - Russian terranoirk.ru and American npora.comBut nowhere is there any information like R50 participation in the rally.Riding can be not only fast on asphalt or 35-gauge on off-road wheels, but also fast off-road.For me, if the car performs in a rally team, then it is at the peak of performance in the performance of its model.Where else can you find such a concentration of engineers, money, time and energy around the question of how to drive quickly there where usually very few people go.I created this topic in order to gather in this topic technical solutions, characteristics of changes, photos and video R50 in the rally.And those who have something, let's lay out all the information about the ripe Pathfinder / Terrano / QX4 here.Unfortunately, there is very little technical information in the internet. Basically just photos and videos.For example, the rally Terrano R50 96-99 Japanese team: the VG33E engine with 170 hp, the rear suspension remained five-pin, on both axles of the tire size 215 / 85-16. And that's it!- This, of course, is not enough.It is clear that this is all for the rally teams was worth a lot of money, and somewhere a solution to the know-how, because to know all this to the owner of the R50 is interesting.About all technical solutions and draw conclusions you have to judge only by photos.
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Experience has shown that the publication with the help of Tapatalk is more reliable than the Photobocket. The latter for some reason lost the photo.
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Recently I went to the police to inspect the registration of the LPG fuel system and there, in the backyard, I saw such a Soviet rarity.
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Если скачки напряжения связаны с величиной оборотов, то скорее всего регулятор напряжения вышел из строя.
Для этого не нужно менять весь генератор. Работы с заменой стабилизатора обходятся как правило 1/6 цены генератора.
Их ремонтируют как правило в тех же местах где есть ремонт турбин. У них есть каталоги по всем аналогам. Делается это быстро.
Мне 3 года назад (~ 75000 километров назад) поменяли - до сих пор работает.
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Фотографии одной машины за 5 лет владения
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Here is my example, from the journal of my pathfinder, the adjustment of the bearing preload of the hub bearing using a special key, which was referred to from above. https://www.drive2.ru/l/472519521156989393/Does not want this site to upload my photos, sorry. I can not figure out what's wrong.But as I wrote your problem is likely not only in the pre-tension, nor in the absence of the collapse and convergence of the front suspension.
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Be healthy!I can assume there are two possible causes of your problem:1) you have an elevator, and the wheels are significantly different from the standard size.And after the elevator body and the suspension lift, did you a) carry out the selection of the take-off axis on the disks with the new rubber, select the zero point on the descent-camber axes
did you work at the descent-and-collapse stand after the elevator and the wheels change at the service station your car?Here you can check whether the standard axis of the demolition is aligned with your new tires and disks for grip (point 0): https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/To specify OEM parameters, specify the parameters indicated on the rating plate of the driver's license plate number. As a rule, for the R50 with the VK35DE engine - this is for tires 255 / 65-16, and the size of the regular drive - r16 departure of the standard drive ET 30, the width of the disk is 7 inches. Do you know what size of wheels you have in centimeters, what sort of flight in the new drive along the axis and at the spacer of the hub, if it is?2) Factory manual on repair and maintenance R50 assumes a tightening of bearings of a nave a nut of fastening with the certain effort. The tightening of the nut is done with a special key KV4015400 with a force of 79-98 Nm,Your hub, after replacing the inner and outer bearing was tightened according to the rules of the plant?Such a key, for hub bearings, I made this by myself.However, I have not figured out how to upload a photo of my work on this site.Therefore, I simply give a link to my on-board journal on the second answer: https://www.drive2.ru/l/472482137761644818/So after almost a year the front drivers side bearing set has gone bad again. That makes 2.5 complete sets since ive owned the truck but I think I finally found the issue. From what I can tell, the flaw lies in the design of the inner bearing grease seal. The spring has a small lip that keeps it in place and if that lip fails or gets damaged the spring unseats and allows debris to get in. I bought the "National" brand bearings and seals with the 3 year warranty from Orielly's because I figured I would replace them before the 3rd year was up and have bearings for the life of the truck but this clearly is a problem. Poor quality materials? Maybe but it very well might be that these seals are fine under normal conditions. The terrain up here has been rough. Lots of sandy mud, water crossings, snow and icy roads that were salted. Could have made things worse or caused the problems all together. We'll see how long these last. Wish I had taken a photo of the damaged unit.
Has anyone else had chronic wheel bearing/seal issues?
I also gave up on the crap hardware that came with my Warn manual hubs. The 2nd stud to break while taking off the assembly this time was the last straw. Ive broken 2 on the passenger side as well over the past year.
I went for some stainless A2-70 SHCS's and yanked everything while I had the hub out. Have some 10.9's coming but these are all I could find today.
Of course one was broke down in the bore so that required some effort. Milled a flat and pulled it out with a left handed drill. Tapped them all and called it good. They're M8x1.25 if anyone is interested.
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No, we have such problems, but rarely.There are two systems to prevent such situations: you can shine with the backlight in response. I so drove a couple of days after installing the OEM xenon from the Terrano R50, with unsettled horizontally and vertically, and every third blinked backlight in response. I quickly wanted to ride with such light.And the second - the annual state technical inspection. If it does not pass does not work insurance civil to the car and can withdraw the machine account. I just passed the state car inspection a month ago, when I legalized the transfer of the engine of the VQ35DE fuel system in parallel to gasoline, and propane gas.
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Дневной свет составляет около 5500 тысяч.
Я знаю, что я больше не беспокоюсь о том, чтобы вспыхивать люди, у которых есть голубые огни, потому что их ярлыки обычно намного хуже.
Самое главное, чтобы ПРАВИЛЬНО нацелить фары, чтобы предотвратить ослепление встречного движения. Большинство проблем, которые я вижу здесь, - это то, что люди поставили световую сборку послепродажного обслуживания и не нацеливали ее. Или идиот, проезжающий по асфальтированной дороге с его световой баром.
Нет, у нас такие проблемы, но редко. Есть две системы управления: вы можете сиять с подсветкой в ответ, и, если через пару дней после установки OEM-ксенонов от Terrano R50, я путешествовал с неурегулированным горизонтом и вертикально каждый третий я сделал это. А второй - ежегодный государственный технический осмотр. Я только что прошел государственную инспекцию автомобиля месяц назад, когда легализую передачу двигателя топливной системы VQ35DE не только на бензин, но и на пропановый газ.
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The only correct way to remove the VQ35DE is to extract it together with the transmission on the stretcher from the bottom.Remove the exhaust system, the middle transmission subframe, the front drive gearbox, detach the front and rear of the cardan, the wiring, the coolant pipes, unscrew and then, when your machine is on the lift, put the stand (table) from 0.5 meters/
When your stretcher is lying with the engine and transmission on the table, lift the car body lift and thus extract the engine. From above it can not be removed. VQ35DE is removed through the bottom ..
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First of all, I believe it is necessary to decide whether you will use the halogen headlight or not and will, if so, the headlight be old or new.If you decide to use the halogen headlight, then it is better to put in it, so called, lamps of increased power. For example, I have 4,5 years without reproach worked the lamp manufacturer of our headlights company Koito Whitebeam 3.The only minus of these lamas for me was one thing. According to the law, in Russia all machines must undergo a state technical inspection. According to the regulations, the use of lamps with the color of the cap other than the transparent one is forbidden.Although they shine in a crystal white color, but the color of the glass is off in blue - and this is a violation of technical regulations.Therefore, I had to rearrange them every time before the usual inspection and then change it back. As for you - see for yourself.I used these lamps for 4.5 years in headlight lamps and fog lamps and they did not burn out unnecessarily. The effect from their glow is really an order of magnitude better than from standard lamps, so they do not consume much more electricity.Secondly, I think it's right, to decide whether you will use your old headlights and polish them or buy new ones.I can say that the headlights of such Chinese firms as TYC or DEPO cost about $ 50 apiece and not worse than the OEM.If you decide to use old headlights, then polishing the headlamp headlamps flowed a little. After it, you need to cover the headlights with a polyurethane film to protect against abrasion. This can be done in places where the glass of machines is toned with film.True if you put it all together, then, perhaps, buy new lights will not be more expensive than to cover with old polyurethane film.I went through the path described above, but a year ago I decided to put the headlights with a regular xenon from the Nissan Terrano P50.Since in Japan the movement is more right, and the light of the tick in the lenses had to be slightly leveled by dismantling the headlight.By and by I can say that the regular light of xenon OEM, also by the way Koito's company, shines brighter than the light of distant and fog lamps.
Rally R50: photos, videos, technical solutions and specifications
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Technical solutions
