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01Pathmaker

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Posts posted by 01Pathmaker

  1. Looks good man, you'll really like those Grabbers in the snow. Put a set (255/70/16) on my '01 just before a good dump last winter, I was cruising through 14"+ like it was on rails! So far, these are some of the best "do it all" tires I've had, great on dry/wet pavement, snow/ice, beach, hard-pack dirt and light mud. Haven't run them in deep gooey mud yet either.

  2. With many alternators, the output is minimal at and just above idle. This tends to be especially true for low quality rebuilt or remanufactured units. Most larger or more reputable repair shops will be able to test the output throughout the rpm range (some can even give you a printout of the results). My thinking is that this may be your issue since your lights come on after being at idle for a while, with a load. For $400 you could have bought a high quality aftermarket high output unit and done the install yourself (not all that difficult).

  3. ...yet. Never hurts to be prepared for the unknown. Just wait, I've got a few goodies up my sleeve that will be added once I'm done with the maintenance/repair phase and can get going on the "build". Trust me, they'll be good for a chuckle if nothing else. :)

  4. Purely pathetic! The wife and I have been casually looking at new vehicles for her (maybe in the next year or so we'll pull the trigger) and even she's at a loss. Thank god she refuses to be caught dead driving a minivan, we both hate all the new stuff out there, the only exception being the Xterra. Who knows, we may end up looking for a low mileage, well cared for R51 when the time comes. After looking around, it'll be a while before I'll be able to pry her out of her '01 R50...

  5. Disregard the suggestion to change the timing belt, you state in the thread title that you have an '02, as long as that is correct, you have the 3.5 engine which has a timing chain (which requires no service as long as there are no abnormal noises). Since (I assume) you have an '02 with the 3.5, you can also disregard the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires, as these engines use coil-on-plug style ignitions. With 131k on the clock, my recommendations (in no particular order of importance) are:

     

    Coolant flush

    Air Filter

    Fuel Filter

    Spark plugs

    PCV valve

    Clean the MAF (carefully)

    Transmission fluid & filter

    Drain & fill Transfer case (assuming you have 4x4)

    Drain and fill front & rear differentials (also a good idea to make sure the vents are working properly while doing this)

     

    These are all fairly simple tasks that can be done as time and money allow.

  6. Here's a push for you guys. I have the AC skid plate for the front. Was pretty much given to me. It's 3/16" steel. It is freaking HEAVY! So much, that I dread dropping it to change my oil filter.

     

    So, for those of you on the fence. Grab this while you can. If your worried about cost. Here's my perspective. A sheet of 1/4" alum the size to make this is about $90 where I live. Then you have to find someone with a metal brake to make the bends, and hope you get them right. Then you have to spend the time to drill the holes. Which being slotted will make installing this super easy. (Compared to having to hold up 50lbs and hope you get the bolts started enough and fast enough with the heavy AC one). Finally you have to get it powder coated. Which will be $75+ and hope that the powder coater is doing a run. Otherwise you'll wait for it. Most wont do a single oven run just for a small skid like this.

     

    This is a good deal. Jump on it!!

    Definitely great info, thanks! I'll probably jump in on the second run.
  7. The new exhaust arrived yesterday and is awaiting install (probably won't get time til the weekend tho), finished going through the brakes, aside from needing to be cleaned, lubed and adjusted, all looks good. I'm going to replace a few short sections of hard line cause they look a little crusty. Two questions: how important is the "load sensing valve"? The 2 lines going into it and one coming out are going to be replaced, but the bleeder on top of that valve is frozen solid, so thinking of just eliminating it. Second, what's the procedure for changing a rear axle seal? The driver side is weeping a little.

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