brc19761
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Posts posted by brc19761
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Thanks for the info. Yes I will have to get both issues fixed. I am always thankful for this sites great advice. Everyone has always helped me out tremendously and save me a lot of $,
Thanks,
brc
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Thanks for the replies. One of my early theories was that the stuff in the cat. converter had came apart. I had to use my truck yesterday b/c I had to haul stuff. Not to long ago I put a new tie rod end on the passenger side. It is my own fault, but I never got the front end aligned. I usually don't take my truck on long trips. I use my Pathfinder for that. I have had to use my truck on long trips here lately. I think the tires have worn unevenly b/c of me not getting the front end aligned.
I think maybe this has been causing my truck to shimmy which could cause the exhaust especially the cat. converter to shake (and probably broke up the carbon inside of it). When you are at around 60 mph and let off the gas it rattles the most almost like clock work. I bet this is b/c of my tires. I have 31x10.50 all around. I will see what a front end alignment and tire rotation will do.
Does anyone think this is a viable theory?
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Actually all the exhaust hangers are firmly in place. I will tell you one thing. Years ago my check engine light came on. I hooked my ob2 scanner up to it and it was the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold. I tried getting the O2 sensor out. I bought a special socket. I let it soak in penetrating oil. I let some friends with some big muscles pull on it, but it was seized and would not come out. I eventually just cut the wires to the O2 sensor b/c I was going to crack my exhaust trying to get it out. I do not know if the catalytic converter could be stopped up. I get the same gas millage. I don't even know what the symptoms of a stopped up converter are b/c I have never had one stop up on me.
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Everyone on here has gave me such great advice on my pathfinder. I thought maybe you could help me out on my truck.
I have a 1997 Nissan Hardbody (d21) reg cab 4 cylinder manual 4x4 that is in excellent shape. It has 136,000 miles on it. I bought new and have treated it beyond great.
This is the problem: I drove to my girlfriends house which is around 80 miles one way. The truck drove fine on the way up there. On the way home as soon as I started up the hwy. I heard this awful rattling noise. The more my speed increased the louder the noise got. It sounded like it was right underneath the driver's seat or under the instrument panel. I made it home. I checked for anything loose couldn't find it. I thought it may be the speedometer cable so I unhooked it from the transmission. That wasn't it. It was definitely NOT coming from the engine
Then I kind of briefly heard the noise while I had it parked and the engine on. It sounded like it was the catalytic converter making the noise. I pushed down on it with a piece of metal and it seemed to stop.
So, I had some metal banding material and pulled the converter down and put the flat metal material on top of the converter and used tappers and an impact to secure it down. This did help the loudness of the noise, but it did not stop it. I have spent at least five times strapping the catalytic converter in various positions. It helps but it does not solve the problem.
Just like today I need to use my truck, but I am afraid that something else may be wrong with it like the transmission (which shifts fine). I even thought it was the throw out bearing, but it does not make any noise when running and setting still. It only does it when you drive it especially does it when the motor is going up a hill. It does it really bad when you hit 55 mph and then let off the gas.
The truck runs and shifts great except for this rattling noise that has started. I just don't want to keep driving it and eventually tear something major up.Anyone have any ideas b/c I sure need them.
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Thanks for all the replies. I know I needed a vacuum pulled. That was the first thing I thought. I drove my Pathfinder yesterday and it blew cold air the whole time. I kept checking for leaks and so far have not found any.
Do you think I really messed up my a/c by not having a vacuumed pulled? Do you think my a/c or any related a/c parts will fail earlier than they should b/c of my stupidity? I strongly value the information on this message board. Everyone has did a wonderful job of helping me in the past. I usually do not cut corners at all when it comes to my vehicles. It is no excuse, but I am in the process of moving and I was running out of money and time fixing the a/c this week. This Pathfinder is in to good of a shape for me to screw things up. So, if you think I got someone to pull a vacuum now and re-charge the a/c it would do any good at this point? Or should I leave it like it is?
I really value your opinions and information. Any input would help.
Thanks,
brc
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Ok just got finished with the job. I got some really good Freon with leak stop and so on in it.. I came home put it in and it wasn't enough. So, I had to go back and get two regular cans of 134a Freon. When I got back I heard a hissing sound coming from the truck. It was leaking on top of the compressor. I found the part screwed it out and figured it was the o ring. I took the part and got a set of a/c o rings and found one to match the old one. Screwed it back in and started with a can of Freon. This time I put a little Freon in and stopped and turned the truck off. Same hissing noise from same place. Two cans of Freon gone down the drain. Got to investigating a little more and found another o ring leak. This time put some Freon in and turned truck off. No hissing noise. Leaks were stopped. Now back to the store for more Freon. Put two cans in air got cold and so did the a/c lines. Still no leaks. Took paper clip out and hooked up dual pressure switch. The clutch is now engaging on its own and I have cold air blowing on the inside. I still have one can of Freon left to top the system off, but I decided to let the truck set overnight and see if the leaks come back or any other leaks start. I have a working clutch and cold air again or at least so far.
I will let you know how things go tomorrow. Thanks for everyone's post and input.
brc
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OK what I did was the paper clip trick. I unplugged the dual pressure switch (low pressure switch if that is what you want to call it) I bent a paper clip into a u shape and placed it into both terminals. This made the clutch cut on. I could even make it cut on and off by pushing the a/c button on and off.
So, I know it is low on Freon. Should I add some Freon with stop leak? Do I need to keep the paper clip trick going so the clutch will be running to take the Freon. Or could you plug the switch back up and by adding Freon would the clutch kick in?
Thanks,
brc
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I apologize. I just went outside and read the label on the a/c line and it says use 134a. I really thought that a 1994 vehicle would have the older type of Freon. So, all I have to do is check the Freon level and see if it is low. I know you need a set of gauges to test the Freon level. All I have is a blue hand grip gauge with a hose that attaches to just one a/c line and you squeeze the leaver and it tells you if it is high or low of Freon. Would that work? Only other gauges I have is to test my outside a/c unit on my house.
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I have a 1994 Pathfinder LE v6 with 92,000 original miles on it. I drove the truck last Wed. and Thursday about 200 miles both hwy and in the city. The a/c performed perfectly as usual. I get in it Sat. to go to a 4th of July cook out and the a/c just blows hot air. I have the push button auto a/c controls. I pushed the a/c button on and off and I could feel the compressor kick in, but no cold air. I turned around and came back home. I went to check everything out more closely today. The magnetic clutch is not engaging at all. I closely read the HA section of the factory service manual. I checked the a/c radio fuse. It was not blown and radio works fine. I checked where the a/c relay goes with a test light and it is getting power. I also switched the blower and a/c relay and the a/c relay worked the blower. I did unplug the ac connector and the magnetic clutch connector and tested it with the test light and neither would light up. I know I need a 12v multi reader to check the a/c, clutch, and thermal protector to see if each one is getting 12v. I looked everywhere in my shop and could not find my 12v meter. But like I said I did check them with a test light and nothing lite up.
Next, I removed and disconnected the push button a/c and heat controls. I put in a back up control panel I had and everything worked on it. For, example it changed the air flow, it changed the blower speed, but I pushed the a/c button and the clutch would not engage. I noticed that all of the relays except the a/c relay would get warm.
If the Freon gets low will the clutch not engage on the compressor? I know the r-12 or either r-13 (I can't remember which # it said on the a/c lines) you can no longer get unless you have a license. So, unless I convert the system to a 134a and have a vacuum pulled and put new 134a I cannot see if adding Freon will make the clutch engage.
Does anyone know what else I could check or what else it could be if the clutch and compressor was not getting power? Can you buy just a a/c clutch or do you have to buy the whole compressor? If the system is low of Freon will the clutch still engage?
I would like to try and diagnose the problem myself b/c if I take it to a mechanic it could be tons of money that I do not have right now b/c I am in the process of buying a home and moving.
Any information would be appreciated.
Thank You,
brc
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I appreciate the info. I did not know what was going on. Will set it today. WoW this site never ceases to amaze me
Thanks again,
brc
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I have a 2008 Pathfinder SE. You can leave the door locks unlocked at night but by morning time all doors are locked. This just started a couple of weeks ago. It did not do this before. I don't like this b/c I don't want to end up getting locked out of my Pathfinder with the keys in the ignition.
Is there some setting I have accidently messed up. My Pathfinder has the little monitor above the radio and a/c controls. Is there something I need to reset? Is this normal for a 2008 to even do this?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Thanks for the replies. I took the evap canister apart again to check for any mistakes I may have made installing the new vent valve solenoid. You really have to disconnect everything on the evap system (which is located behind the driver's side rear wheel) to get to the top of the evap canister where the vent valve solenoid is located. I checked the hoses and especially the wiring harnesses that plug into the evap solenoid and the canister. Put everything back together and made sure everything was where it was suppose to be and all tight.
I drove it around all day Saturday with no "service engine soon" light to come on "so far". I think I had a loose connection on the vent valve solenoid. I think it was tight when I connected it. But in such a tight space you are working in and connecting all the hoses and other wiring harnesses then re-installing the evap canister. I think the vent valve solenoid connection became loose in the process.
Anyway, I will keep an eye on everything as I drive and hope the service engine soon light doesn't come back on. If it does I am really tempted to just put duct tape over the gage cover where the light is located just where I won't have to see it when I drive
.Thanks everyone,
brc
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Hello every one. You can see the post I have been making about my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder evap system. To make a very long story short. The "service engine soon" light came on a couple of months ago. Found out it was a P0455 (evaporation leak). I bought two gas caps. One OEM from the Nissan Dealer. The code would always come back on. I studied the fsm and got great advice from the people on this message board.
A few weeks ago I took apart the entire evap systems and components. With my 12v tester I really didn't get the vent valve solenoid to work. Did not get the plunger to move up and down. I put everything back together and a new code showed up P0447 (Evaporation vent control circuit open. I would clear the code and as soon as you started it back up the "service engine soon" light would immediately come back on with the P0447.
Well today I bought a new vent valve solenoid. I got it on and cleared the code and the "service engine soon light" went off. I took it for a test drive and the light never came on while I was driving. When I got back home I turned the engine off so I could put it back in my shop (that is where I park it). Well after all that driving when I went to put it up the "service engine light soon" came on with the P0447 code.
I have no idea what it could be. I thought maybe a loose connection or something. The vent valve solenoid had quit working b/c before when I cleared the code the light would come back on immediately. Now it just comes on every now and then.
What could I be missing? What do I need to check? B/T gas caps and solenoid I have spent around a $140.00. I am about ready to put a piece of duct tape over the engine light. I feel like I am so close to fixing this issue, but with the engine light coming back on I feel like I have been wasting my time.
Thanks,
brc
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Hello every one. You can see the post I have been making about my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder evap system. To make a very long story short. The "service engine soon" light came on a couple of months ago. Found out it was a P0455 (evaporation leak). I bought two gas caps. One OEM from the Nissan Dealer. The code would always come back on. I studied the fsm and got great advice from the people on this message board.
A few weeks ago I took apart the entire evap systems and components. With my 12v tester I really didn't get the vent valve solenoid to work. Did not get the plunger to move up and down. I put everything back together and a new code showed up P0447 (Evaporation vent control circuit open. I would clear the code and as soon as you started it back up the "service engine soon" light would immediately come back on with the P0447.
Well today I bought a new vent valve solenoid. I got it on and cleared the code and the "service engine soon light" went off. I took it for a test drive and the light never came on while I was driving. When I got back home I turned the engine off so I could put it back in my shop (that is where I park it). Well after all that driving when I went to put it up the "service engine light soon" came on with the P0447 code.
I have no idea what it could be. I thought maybe a loose connection or something. The vent valve solenoid had quit working b/c before when I cleared the code the light would come back on immediately. Now it just comes on every now and then.
What could I be missing? What do I need to check? B/T gas caps and solenoid I have spent around a $140.00. I am about ready to put a piece of duct tape over the engine light. I feel like I am so close to fixing this issue, but with the engine light coming back on I feel like I have been wasting my time.
Thanks,
brc
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Thanks for the info. I am going to tackle the project this Tuesday. I hope everything goes well with this project. But I am sure "I" will run into some problem. It just tends to happen with me
.Thanks again for the info.
brc
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I have posted on this problem, as you can see in my recent posts. I have a 2008 Nissan Pathfinder 2wd. Around Christmas the service engine soon light came on. My ob2 scanner came back with a P0455 which was gross fuel evaporation leak. Well the wonderful people on this site I was given great information and advice,
First I replaced the gas cap with a new one from Autozone well that didn't solve the issue. Next I purchased a OEM gas cap from my local Nissan dealership that didn't fix it either. I studied the fsm on the EVAP problems and received much information from this website.
This Thursday I took the canister, all hoses, and the vent valve solenoid apart. Inspected all hoses and no cracks. I tested the vent valve solenoid, but I didn't get a clicking noise. I didn't really know what I was suppose to hear, if anything at all. I checked the spring and plunger and even moved the plunger manually. The vent valve solenoid was $70.00 at Autozone. I didn't know if the solenoid was good or bad and didn't want to waste my money not knowing. I put everything back together.
Next I took the purge valve solenoid (which is located on the engine) off. I tested it and it would make a loud clicking noise. I started the Pathfinder up to make sure everything was working and then cleared the code. I got up the next morning and immediately the check engine light soon came on. I got the ob2 scanner and it read a new code (only the one code). The code was P0447 which is Evaporation Emission Vent System Control Circuit Open. I cleared the code and started the vehicle up and immediately the light came on with the same code. I went and checked the wiring harness was secure on the vent valve solenoid (it was secure). I drove the Pathfinder to town and back and it ran fine.
I was thinking since I moved the vent valve solenoid by hand that maybe it was stuck and moving it caused it to unseal and the solenoid was not working. Does that seem logical? Do I need a new vent valve solenoid? The only thing that is throwing me for a loop is the code saying the circuit was open. I checked the fsm and really couldn't decide what to do.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Your advice has been priceless so far.
Thanks,
brc
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Thanks so much for that link. That is just what I need. Man thanks to you and the others you do not know how much I appreciate your help, I know this is just a small problem compared to the many vehicle problems I have faced. I am just weird when it comes to something I have to pay the bank on every month, pay insurance on every month, plus buy a tag for (which is due this month
. Also I like taking pride in working on my own vehicles. I grew up with my Dad being a car enthusiast. He went to school to learn how to do paint and body work so he could just fix up his ride way back when he was young. That grew into him opening his own paint and body shop as side work. He worked his full time job (still does until he gets ready to retire) plus worked on vehicles after work and every weekend. Along with just regular paint and body he also did a lot of restores. He finally hung up his spray gun and bondo around 2004 b/c his first grandchild was growing up. He still messes around with stuff when he can find the time. Growing up I also was a car enthusiast. From my first vehicle when I was 16 (which was a Nissan Hardbody Truck) to the present I have never paid for someone to change my oil.Oh, by the way, for some strange reason the state in which I live does not require an emission test. We just have what we call inspection stickers. Which means you drive to your local tire store, garage, or whoever puts on stickers and they just check to see if your signal lights, stop lights, and other equipment works. You just can't have a crack in the windshield that obstructs your view or if you have tint it has to be legal.
Thanks for all the help. I will probably continue asking for advice b/c this project is still getting started.
brc
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For the 12V tests, two 6V batteries and cheap snap-on terminals from Radio Shack, wired in series with a little extra wiring, is all you need. You just need to supply a small voltage to listen/feel for a click.
When you are talking about 6 volt batteries are you talking about the ones that go in the old square flashlights? Or is their another type of battery and what are the snap on terminals from radio shack.
I checked with my extended warranty and they will not cover this problem. My sister has been seriously ill for the past six months and sometimes I am called upon for doctor appointments and watching my nephews. B/T work and my sister I never know if I am going to have to set aside for something. Well today was one of those days and I did not get a chance to work on my Pathfinder. If it is one of the solenoids I priced them at autozone. One is $60.00 and one is $90.00. Hope it is just a hose
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First I would like to thank everyone that posted comments, provided much needed information, and very helpful links. I really haven't got to read and research all the information everyone provided me, even in the earlier posts. All b/c of time issues or I guess you could best describe it as "life" and all we have to do in a day and those things that come up and catch us off guard.
No there was not multiple codes. Every time it came back PO455. I did read the section you provided on the solenoids and how to test them. I don't think I have the tools to check them. This is what I plan to do, but as you can read I do not know the exact location of the solenoids (even though I did read the section in the fsm as to what they do, procures to check them, and what they do).
I have taken the time this evening and had the time to go over all the information everyone has provided me and even doing a little research of my own.
Well it was not the gas cap. Two caps one oem and still did not solve the problem. Now my next steps will be 1) carefully check all the evap hoses for any cracks or tears. 2) check the vent control valve to see if it is faulty or stuck. 3) check the purge valve. 4) Check for damage or cracks to the charcoal canister.
I have seen in the fsm the drawn diagrams of both of the solenoids and would recognize them if I saw them. If I remember right the purge valve is under the hood, but I don't exactly know where. The vent control valve is located next to, on top of, or somewhere close to the charcoal canister.
My questions are does anyone have any pictures or diagram of the two solenoids? Do you have to remove the spare tire to gain access to work on the canister and vent control valve?
Thanks,
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Well it was not the gas cap. I bought the new oem gas cap Friday from my Nissan dealer. I put the new gas cap on in the dealership parking lot and drove it home with the service engine soon light on. I had to make several stops before going home (more than three) and the light did not come on. When I got home that day I reset the code with my obd2 scanner. I drove around and took it out on the hwy for a total of about 25 miles and the light never came on.
On Sat. I headed out and within a short distance it came back on. I will closely inspect the lines and hoses. But what about solenoid's and sensor's where are they located in the fsm and how would I be able to see if they are good or bad?
Thanks,
brc
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Thanks for the replies. I don't know the exact brand of the cap I bought from Autozone. All of their products are just marked duralast. However, if I were to closely inspect the writing on the Autozone gas cap I may get a manufacturer. I saw some pics of a person working on the charcoal canister on either a R50 or R51 and it was located on the rear passenger side. They say it is a pain to work on b/c you have to remove the spare tire, and seeing the top of the canister is rather difficult. That is just what I read though.
I have my own obd2 scanner. I have drove the Pathfinder more than three trips as is it states in the manual (with the new Autozone cap) and the light came back on and hasn't went off yet. I also have replaced the gas cap while the Pathfinder was not running. I have inspected the lines and saw the connections of the evap system in the engine bay. They were not cracked or anything. The Pathfinder only has 70,000 miles on it. It had 63,000 on it when I bought it a year a go. It has been kept in my shop the entire time I had it and whoever owned it before made me think they had it garaged.
I have a 1994 Pathfinder 4x4 and a 1997 D21 Hardbody 4x4 and have never had a issue like this before. I have owned many Nissan trucks in the past, but this is the only one I hesitate to work on b/c of my lack of knowledge of the mechanics on the 2008 Pathfinders.
Hopefully the oem gas cap I get today will solve the problem. If not off to the dealership it goes and all my money as well
.Thanks for the information and keep it coming.
brc
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Thanks for the reply. I priced a gas cap at my local Nissan dealer and it was around $36.00. Think I am going to get one tomorrow and see it that will do the job.
I actually bought a three year 36 thousand mile warranty when I purchased the Pathfinder last January. But I have no idea if the warranty would cover this. It is mostly for powertrain. But no matter what it cost to get fixed "if it is covered under the warranty" it will only cost me a $100.00. I will take the warranty papers with me tomorrow and see if it is covered, but I seriously doubt it is.
Thanks
brc
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You can see my older post of where I keep getting a P0455 code which is a "evap" leak on my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder. I bought a new cap from Autozone and the check engine light came back on after I erased with my OB2 scanner. I have researched and read the fsm about the fuel system. I even tried a manual clearing of the code (I was thinking this would permantly erase the code from computer). I was definitely wrong on this one. You can read the post where I said I need help and see that I thought I had fried the computer on my Pathfinder.
I have seen where some earlier Pathfinder's have a charcoal canister, purge solenoid, vent solenoid, and such. I was wondering if my 2008 had the Charcoal canister ? The fsm also states that I need to replace the gas cap with a Nissan brand only. So, my question is should I buy a factory Nissan gas cap from the local Nissan dealer and see if it works? Did I mess up when I cleared the code when I replaced the new cap from Autozone and did not let the "service engine soon" light go off by itself?
This has been going on since before Christmas and this is the middle of January and I have not been able to drive my Pathfinder b/c I am scared I am going to damage it while driving it with the warning light on.
Should I try a Nissan gas cap and see what happens ? Or take it to the dealer b/c other than a gas cap change I have no idea what to do? But I know taking it to the dealer will cost me a fortune that I do not have right now.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You,
brc
Tire Pressure Warning Light
in 2005-2012 R51 Pathfinders
Posted
I have a 2008 Nissan Pathfinder SE. The tires came from the dealership filled with nitrogen. I have had the truck for about two years now. The tire pressure warning light came on the other day. I checked all the tires and they all had the correct pressure. The light will not got off. I have searched the net and found many different remedies to reset the tire pressure light on Nissan vehicles. The easiest was to put a little more air in the tire and drive it down the road until the light goes off. That procedure didn't work in my case.
I have read where in some cases you have to take it to the dealership to reset the light. I want to try and avoid that. I know my tires having nitrogen in them can be a reason for the light to come on b/c of the difference in weight of the nitrogen compared to air.
I was wondering if anyone knew how to reset the R51 low tire warning light. B/C I have read a lot of different methods, but they have been on different model Nissan vehicles. My light does not flash it just stays on when it is running. I would like to thank anyone who replies in advance b/c I may not be able to reply for a couple of days.
Thanks,
brc