trexterra
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Posts posted by trexterra
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Tried to search but haven't seen anybody attempt to move the speaker mount over to an older 2 door. I figure for $40 from the junk yard I'll try it.
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Did you pull the axles out of the diff
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Crank keyway at about 11 o'clock? Backfiring through the intake sounds like it's set 180 out. Not sure how you got the timing set to 15* because the engine needs to be idling and running smooth for that...
You were right, still don't get how timing was showing right though. I confirmed #1 cyl was at top of compression stroke as harmonic balancer was showing me 30 BTDC lined up on the arrow when I dropped the distributor in to line the rotor up with #1. It was most definitely 180 out tonight when i took the cap off. I followed the same procedures as stated above that I got from the fsm and for whatever reason it worked tonight.
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Did just that and went back to basics. Got it started tonight, went to install new cap and rotor and it was somehow 180 off from where I dropped it in. Not sure how timing was showing right, anyone know if #1 fires twice per crank rotation? Either way I'll put the timing light on it again tomorrow when I can get some help because she's running but only if I keep feathering the throttle. Going to re adjust timing and go from there.
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It's an impudence timing light so it only flashes light when the #1 wire gets spark. So even if the engine is just cranking and turning slowly than it will always flash TDC. Shouldn't matter how fast it's spinning as long as it tells me #1 is firing when it should.
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You'd be better off with a SAS than sticking with IFS if you want that much lift.
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Yeah I double checked by putting a dowel in to the #1 spark plug hole to make sure it was at TDC (compression stroke) while the harmonic balancer was showing TDC
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To spell out the details, put in a vg30e to replace the blown vg30i. I reused the intake from the i since I do not have the ECU or harness for the e. I'm getting fuel, when I let off the key you can sometimes see a pressurized mist come back out the throttle body, and it won't run off starter fluid. I've checked the timing and it's set 15* BTDC. When I check the plugs for spark I get a good clean looking normal spark, only issue is that it is arcing. It arced to the air box once and I thought it was a fluke. When holding the distributor to rotate timing as my buddy cranked it, it arced through my body giving me a good little ride! I ordered a new rotor/cap/wire set because those are clearly faulty. It was the set that was running however before the motor blew a rod out the oil pan so I feel like it should be able to start this motor. Any other ideas to try while I wait for parts?
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3.7 with the filter change per fsm.
I left it in so I can try and get it running before I take off. That's another issue entirely tough. -
Not what I wanted to hear but thanks for the quick reply. I'm on a short time frame before I deploy and debating risk reward of getting it running so I can drive it up to a buddies house while I'm gone. Would it be safe to run theoretically?
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So I pulled the oil pan while it was on an engine stand and did rear and front mains, oil pan seal, etc... What I didn't know I should do was pull the dipstick before reinstalling the oil pan. Now the engine is full reassembled and in the truck waiting for me to pour oil in it and crank it and the dipstick won't come out. Any ideas?
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Not today but over the last week a fellow npora/cntc member came up and helped me put the engine back in my black 95SE. Low mileage JDM motor into a 5 speed west coast truck, yes please.
Oh my god, it's in.
Pathy party:
Wish I had some sunshine to finish my swap! Keeps snowing on me!
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it's already got a linked rear end on coils. Don't know why you would want to go to leafs or bother swapping to a jeep axle. The H233B is a great rear end to work with.
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I just went through the starter hole to get the torque converter bolts. After you take the bracket the starter sits in off, there is a big hole.
ok i'll be attempting try #3 tomorrow to get the engine out. I'll look for this.
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There is an "inspection cover" that is pinched between the Engine and the Transmission. All bolts must be removed to seperate the two somewhat and the cover will unbolt. This MUST be removed to get to the flexplate/converter bolts. There are 4 of them, and they are small. The best way I found was to use a long extension and impact that was at the front of the engine bay, where the radiator/fan would be. I removed the first one, then took some spray paint, and sprayed into the area, marking the two. This is becuase they are balanced from the factory. Then rotate engine, and remove the other 3.
Can anyone help me with this part? I can't seem to get the engine out and I found this, just not sure what this inspection cover is referencing and I can't find anything in the FSM.
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Completed a ghetto patch on the rust hole under the back seat. If it were anything more than a rusty off road beater that cost me $300 I would care more about how it was repaired. And maybe some day i'll get back to it and do it right. But for now I ground out all of the loose rust, used Rustoleum rust converter/primer, undercoating, formed a sheet of aluminum over the bump and set it with black gasket maker, secured with a dozen rivets. I then re primed and undercoated the whole thing. Should at least keep the rust from spreading and keep exhaust, dirt, mud, and water from leaking in to the cabin.
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Incoming pictures... Today was a very busy day. bull bar/bumper removed, skid plate removed (oh the carnage!), seats and carpets removed, hand scrubbed and pressure washed carpets, and shampooed the seats. Hopefully the stench of cigarettes and weed will be out of the truck and I can start doing motor work tomorrow. Still waiting for a buddy to bring over the engine hoist so I can put the motor on the stand.
This is not the best lighting and it's hard to see under the truck, but the engine grenaded and shot the rod through the oil pan... in better lighting you can see the rod.
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Sorry, but 1 minor correction though. The early Pathfinder VG30e had square tooth timing belt with 60k mile change interval, the later years had the rounded tooth belt with 105k mile change interval; the change point was somewhere mid year 1993. If you aren't certain which yours is, it would be best to look before ordering any parts. You should be able to get the top cover to move enough to see quite easily...
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Awesome, glad I didn't order yet because i'm not sure which one it has. Just got an engine stand today so should be able to start the tear down process this weekend. My next question is am I going to have to order a gasket kit for the VG30i since i'm putting the TBI on it? or will the VG30E kit work? The evergreen kits on amazon aren't the most explicit.
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thanks for the info, this motor supposedly had 90k on it when pulled but there's really no way to know for sure. It is fairly clean but there was a little crud in a few of the plug holes so despite the fact all cylinders make compression it's obviously going to need to be pulled apart and get all the seals/gaskets replaced. I'll make sure to order kits for the vg30e though.
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I'm fairly certain that the answer to this is yes, but I have found a long block out of a 91-95 pathfinder to replace my blown motor on the 87. I'm looking for a quick fix to get her running and on the road again so i'm hoping that I can just throw the TBI intake on to the fuel injected motor and not have to worry about sourcing an ECM right now. I've done all of the googling I can for now but I will continue my search.
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The shrouds on these trucks are surprisingly weak and break very easily. I didn't believe it at first until I broke mine taking it out. They seem very flexible but yet they're not as tough as they seem.
exactly, after the body lift it didn't fit right and when I hit a bump the fan started chopping away at it so I had to pull over on the side of the road and yank it out in a gas station parking lot. I broke the bottom out of frustration and lack of tools to get it out.
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Ok so today after my commute instead of popping the hood right when I got home I let it sit and idle with the AC going for a few minutes. I saw the temp rise just slightly but it staid fairly constant. Took a towel and tried to stop it again and this time it was working correctly. Problem avoided. Just had to go about troubleshooting a different way instead of believing everything a mechanic says.
Yeah. Fan clutch replacement is a lot simpler than going E-fan. BTW, where is your fan shroud? Do you normally run without it?Yeah that got ripped off about 4 months ago and been doing fine without it. Might be different wheeling but I get around town/traffic just fine.
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yeah I think i'm going to have to go that route after all... I just don't have time for a while to do any playing with toys
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yeah I don't ever notice the temp gauge going up past about 1/2 here in Alabama but it just doesn't seem to be doing very much.
4 door Rear roof speakers fitting in 87 2 door
in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
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Tried to search but haven't seen anybody attempt to move the speaker mount over to an older 2 door. I figure for $40 from the junk yard I'll try it.