Splish
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Posts posted by Splish
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I have had many adventures with this vehicle over many years. I will miss it!
Kijiji Ad:
2004 Nissan Pathfinder Chinnook (#664 Limited Edition)
Vehicle Specs: http://www.autos.ca/car-test-drives/test-drive-2004-nissan-pathfinder-chinook/
Contact by Phone or Email:
Lenny
905-346-4852
3.5L V6 (Nissan VQ35DE Engine)
4 Speed Auto with O/D
Vehicle: 290000 kms
Engine: 104000kms (Rebuilt at 186000kms)$4250 O.B.O. as is.
Factory:
Power Steering
Electronic Brake Assist
Power Sunroof
Power Windows
Power Door Locks
Keyless Entry (2 FOBS, only one key)
Dual Heated Mirrors
Cruise Control
Air Conditioning
Anti-Theft System
Extras:
ARB Winch Mount Bull Bar
Smittybilt X20 8,000Lb Winch
PIAA 50W Fog Lights
2x KC Highlighter Long Range Lights 120W
Custom 3/8" Steel Front Skid Plate
Rocky Road Outfitters Super Slider Rock Sliders
Custom 5/8" steel Differential Skid Plate
KYB Front Struts
Old Man Emu 1/2" Lift Heavy Duty Front Coils
2" HDPE Strut Spacers
Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks
Class III/IV Hitch
Dick Cepek 16" x 8" DC II Black Wheels (*Brand New*)
Toyo Open Country AT II 265/75 R16 (32") Tires (*Brand New*)
I am the second owner of this vehicle. Purchased in 2008 from a lease return.
Engine runs immaculate. Transmission, tranfer case and differentials in great condition.
Needs some body work, some re-upholstry work, and very minor mechanical work. Stereo only has AM/FM as the tape deck and CD Player have died. Factory 150W Bose Amp and 6 Bose Speakers.
I have done most of the work on this vehicle myself, and oil changes have been performed every 5000kms with Semi-Synthetic Oil. -
Is anyone making R50 bumpers? Tactical armor group is the only place I've found lately.I've heard a lot of bad things about them but they have a slick website and some of the videos I've seen show a really good product. The base price of $ 500 is also appealing. Some of my local welding shops have looked at images of what I want and say "no I won't do that" or "yeah , it'll run about $1500" Sometimes its so frusterating , I wish l'd bought a jeep! ( Just kidding:-)
I have the ARB Winvh Mount Bull Bar on my 2004 Nissan Pathfinder. It is listed on the ARB website as only fitting up to 2002 models, but they are wrong.
I origionally purchased it expecting to have to modify it slightly, but no mods needed, it bolted right on, all bolt holes lined up, and plenty strong. In the 6 years I have had it on my truck, I have winched off it many times with a 10,000lb winch and a snatch block. So I have put 20,000Lbs loads on it and it never budged.
I highly recommend it.
Next time I take it apart, I plan to weld the mounts directly to the frame with some stitch welds just to ensure its strength, but that is a want, not a need!
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So I currently have the AC 2" lift coils and KYB struts on my truck. Have had them for about 4 years. and really, not very impressed at all. So it's time for new struts.
I have decided to order the 2" Strut spacers from Snake Racing in Australia, and the Old Man Emu 1/2" lift springs. But I haven't decided on struts yet.
Can anyone give me some advice of struts, what brand and model would you recommend and why?
Thanks.
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The recommended change interval for diff and tranny fluid is 30K miles (48K km). You must drive a heck of a lot! Or is there some other reason why you replace the fluid so often?
I run through Northern Ontario a lot in the summer. Many water crossings, and submerge my difs all the time, so I change out the fluid. I think the t case has a breather line on it, but have never really checked, so I change that too just to be safe. In the winter I don't change it at all as I am not up there.
Eventually, I will get my ass in gear and put breather lines on my difs. I have also seen these awesome little plastic accordian style things that go on the difs that expand and contract to let air in and out, yet are completely sealed so water and debris can't get in. I saw them once on a website for Toyotas, but can't seem to find them now.
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I was going to start on this same type of project soon. I was thinking I would run one line from back to front and right into my air intake box which has a snorkel. I can then tie the rear dif, t case, front dif and transmission all into the one main line.
What do you think, would that work?
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Hi all, i was in the process of to replacing the transfer case fluid with Matic D. The end of the 3/8" breaker bar broke inside the fill plug! The remnants of the breaker bar is pretty well jammed in the fill plug. The drain plug strangely was easily loosened. Wondering if this has happened to anyone ? I'm thinking maybe theres an alternative way to fill the t-case? Although eventually i'd like to figure out how to get the plug out, my primary concern right now is to find a way to fill the t case with oil so I can drive. Thanks for any help!
This has happened to me. The aluminum t case combined with a steel filler plug leads to trouble. They cease up all the time and usually require a torch to loosen them. However, its not easy getting a torch up in there. I did snap a 13mm tool off in mine before. So I went and bought a new filler plug, then welded an old socket to the filler plug. The heat from the weld was enough to loosen it up and then I spun it out. Put the new filler plug in with a little anti-sieze on the threads and it has been very good ever since. I change my fluids once a month, and now I apply anti-sieze to the threads of all my filler and drain plugs. Just a tiny bit though, don't go crazy with the stuff.
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So the past few days my parking brake light has been randomly coming on mainly during acceleration. I know the brake is no actually enguaged but it still annoying. Even when you pull the handle up and put it back down the light stays on. Im thinking that the cable might just be loose and need to be tightened? Is it easy to do?
The parking brake light in Pathfinders is also the "Brake Fluid Low" Light. Your brake fluid is low, which would explain why when you acceslerate, the light comes on. The fluid moves and the sensor turns on the light...
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Have you guys ever seen those accordian style breathers. No hoses, just a plastic accordian that can expand and contract. That way, it can let out air, or take air in, yet no contaminents can get in.
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Dowser, sent you a private message...
Welcome man. Glad to see another Semi Local member. Can't go wrong with a Pathy under $1000.
And Hey Splish. I'm just outside of Niagara Falls in the Fort Erie Area. I must have missed your intro when you joined. We should chat sometime, I'm a Hiking Monster with the Gorge, Decew, Rockway, the Bruce, Balls falls, and many many Many other places as my regular stomping grounds. I'd like to pick your brain about your organization.
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Ok, so I am installing some rock sliders I built. The sliders will bolt on, however, I need to weld some tabs onto my frame. I have a 2004 Pathy, and I can't get the grinder up in there to clean off the frame. My frame has a powder coat on it, and then some undercoating spray that is about 5 mils thick on top of that.
What is the easiest way to remove all that, and like I said, I can't get a grinder up in there...
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That;s why I am building mine out of aluminum. Trying to keep the center of gravity as low as I can. The lower the center of gravity, the less likely you are to roll...
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According to NX industries website, the middle mount compresses the spring & works best with OEM springs that need a little boost. The top spring is the one you want if you have a lift, this moves the whole strut down an inch thus giving the body an inch of lift.
Ahh, so a middle mount is just a spring spacer. Basically making the spring stiffer. Ok, got it. Thanks.
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Yeah, I understand how they call it a 2" lift. Basically all they have done is changed the ride height.
However, they gave me 4 springs that are 2" higher than stock.
The front ones I compressed to all hell to get them on, then the weight of my engine, ARB bumper, skids and Winch still pressed them down a little.
However, in the rear of the truck, there is little to know extra weight to compress the springs. It was riding at the full height of the springs. I sat in the drivers seat and slid forward out of it, I kid you not! I had 2.5" to 3" of rake. It looked like a drag car.
So I left the ridiculously compressed springs on the front, put the OEM springs back in on the rear, and now, it looks factory again. I have gained some ride height in the front, no doubt, and with the Rancho 9000s in the rear, I have much more travel in my system. Currently, with this setup, I have about an inch of rake, and I will fix that problem with a 1" spacer.
I think that AC should inform people that it is not a lift kit, just a stiffer spring to change ride height, or supply OEM springs for the front with a 2" strut spacer! At least that way, I would still have the full travel down in the front.
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I am actually in Brampton quite a bit. I operate a hiking group, and we run a lot of hikes on the Bruce Trail up through that area.
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Well I guess I should chime in. I have enjoyed reading everyones posts on the subject of max CV angles.
Personally I have not had any negative feedback from any of my customers to date on the spacers. Again I believe the results will vary on a case by case basis.
What I've always found important to remember is that every "field" situation is different. You have a much greater chance of grenading a CV joint when your suspension is fully extended, especially if you hammer the throttle to get yourself out of a trouble spot. Also it should be noted that many people are installing lifts on vehicles with high mileage. It begs the question, what is the condtion of the CV prior to the lift?
I would argue that a spacer will present no greater risk of CV joint failure during normal operation. To further that argument I have had both the 97 and '01 in a similar situation crawling through skidder trails with full extension, and have yet to change the CV on the '01 with 232K kms and the 97 had 331k kms when we sold it with the original CVs. But again, its how you drive I suppose. I'm not a throttle hammering type of driver, even in sticky situations.
Just my $0.02, and as always I appreciate everyones collective experiences and opinions. That what makes forums great.
I was looking at the strut spacers at NX4 Industries, and I am interested in getting some. I have 2 brand new CV Axles in a box in the shop anyway. The CV Axles on my truck now have been through quite a bit, and the boots are all torn, so I imagine I will be replacing them soon.
So I see 2 different types of strut spacers, a top mount, and a middle mount.
I know about the top mounts and how they work, but what is a middle mount, and is there any advantage to it over a top mount, as it is a bit more expensive.
Thanks...
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Just wondering where all the hardbodys are at, they're sweet looking trucks I wanna see what people do to them.
Ummm, NPORA????
I'll give you some time to think this through.
You may want to try out some of these links...
http://www.nissanforums.com/truck-suv/61249-boosted-88-nissan-hardbody.html
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You are better off finding one of there 20% off coupons and picking up the 10,000lb winch. I have not seen the 8000 in use but know 2 people running the 10,000lb ones with no problems with them, Also note that the 10,000 has a roller fairlead instead of the just rounded slot fairlead. There is also not a big weight difference between the 2. I have a 10,000 in my hallway at home but am waiting tell after my SAS is done to build a bumper for it.
I was just looking at that. But the 9000LB is $369.99, the 12000LB is only $30 more. I would spend the extra cash and get the 12000LB... That way you'll still have 9000LB on the last spool!
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So presumably when I see a winch rated to 10000 lbs, what it means is it can exert 10000 lbs force when there is no cable on the spool, i.e. minimum spool diameter. As you pull more cable in, the force is going to go down linearly with spool radius right? So how much can you pull when you've got most of the cable wound up?
Does anyone do these calculations? Can't you build a winch that sound like it has a lot of power just by using a narrow spool? I find it hard to know what kind of winch or cable puller etc. that I might want by looking at these rating numbers...
All Winch Manufacturers supply a table with their winches that will tell you the pulling power per drum spool. It is available on their web sites.
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A few years back I purchased the differential skid plate from 4x4parts.com. It did it's job for a few years, but just wasn't built to last. I have destroyed it. It is completely bent out of shape. I sheared the hooks off the rear of the plate on numerous occasions do to the fact they they bolt on, and the nuts are on the bottom side of the plate. On the front, they supply a piece of not-so-nicely trimmed HSS to squeeze the plate to the differential housing, and that too bent out of whack and left the plate bouncing around and rattling.
So I have designed and fabbed my own plate, and it's completely bomb proof!
I have partial blue prints, and the rest was designed on the fly. It's not hard to follow the photos though....
It turns out I can not post that many photos here. So I posted the beginning and the end. If you wish to see all the photos, go to this photobucket:
http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t385/Splish75/Differential%20Skid%20Plate/
I applied some grease over the threaded rods, and slid a tube down over that to keep the rods from rusting. I also glued some neoprean rubber pads to all the areas that will be touching the differntial housing.
And finally, here is the finished product, all bolted into place.
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I have an autocad drawing done for a aluminum roof rack made to fit my R50. It utilizes the entire length of the truck, has a built in light bar, and a section of it is removable so it doesn't hinder my sunroof. I went with aluminum to keep the center of gravity lower on my truck. Unfortunately, I can't weld aluminum, so I have to pay to get it all fabbed. I will make sure to post some photos when I get it done.
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I had this happen quite often in my 2004 Pathy Chinook. I have the auto overdrive, with the button to turn it off.
Many times, when I was going up hill, it would kick down into 3rd, but then never go back to overdrive. I would rev at 3 to 4 thousand on the highway. The way I was fixing it, every time it did it, I would just click the button to turn the o/d off, then turn it back on and it would kick right back into overdrive.
I finally got around to getting it checked. The over drive on Pathy's is completely controlled by an electronic module. I changed out the module, and have had no problems since.
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Anyone here from South Western Ontario???
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According to the Mechanics at National 4x4 in Burlington who specialize in building 4x4 vehicles, the maximum angle you can go on any CV axle is 30°.
The way to check this is to lift your vehicle off the ground using a hoist until the front wheels are hanging as low as they can. Hold a floating protractor to your CV axle, and the needle will point to the angle you have. Now, when you are on the ground the CV axle won't be at that angle, but every time you flex the front end ,you will exceed the 30° angle. The mechanics there tell me that anything more than a 30° angle on your CV axles will tear them apart and will need replacing every 2 to 3 months depending on how often you drive and how often you flex it out.
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According to the guy at National 4WD in Burlington, Ontario. The max angle is 30°. I have put my Truck on the hoist and let the front suspension sag as low as it will go. I have the AC 2" Lift Kit on there, but the total strut extension is still the same as OEM. Fully extended, my CV axles were at 28°. This means, by applying the 1" strut spacers, you will at some point exceed the rating. Now the guys at Burlington 4WD say I could do it, and it will only exceed for a short while whenever my front wheels leave the ground, but they warned me, I will be burning through CV axles every few months. Especially if you take the front sway bar off!
FOR SALE: 2004 Nissan Pathfinder Chinook (Niagara Falls, ON)
in General Forums
Posted · Edited by Splish
Depends, what parts do you want, how much of it do you want?
Get in touch with me...
Lenny.Burch@hotmail.com
or
905-346-4852