MrT
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Posts posted by MrT
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Haha. Of course. I wasn't suggesting you go through the same work as replacing it just to test it. Only that if it was getting a little cranky and not opening the entire way it could have been part of your problem.
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Just out of curiosity did you test your old thermostat to see if it was working correctly?
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Could this be a possible source of a leak after the MAF? (obviously it could be but I guess I'm asking if you think it's likely)
It doesn't extend past the clamp but it's there... (this is the smallish duct immediately before the TB. The cracks are on the side that connects to the TB)
Also, I've checked as per the TSB and there is no sign of any coolant in the intake collector.
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Finished my Bondo and rattle can rust repair.
After grinding and Bondo
Sanding the Bondo
Base Coat
Clear Coat, sanded, buffed... Done
Turned out better than I thought it would. It beats having the corner of my door falling off.
And just for the curious. Total cost was under $20. Got the paint at Ollie's Bargain outlet for $2 (base and clear)
Just needed the Bondo and some sand paper. Had everything else. -
So is 13.8 really normal? That's almost half a volt lower than what the FSM says the regulated output voltage should be (14.1-14.7).
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It did it again after I checked the plugs. And by between 13.8 and 14.2 I mean that it will not go past 13.8 at any rpm and then I'll turn it off then on again and it will be at 14.2 at idle
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Alternator output voltage will vary between 13.8 and 14.2. Will a bad alternator cause misfires etc? Either way I think it's shot but could this be the root cause of my problems or just something else that's wrong?
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Well, the last time I had the radiator out I didn't burp the system so it might just be from that. I'm still leaning toward an electrical issue.
Checked out the 'L' fitting and it was fine. It's way too late in my day to hug my warm engine to get at those vaccum lines and my knock sensor has been going off for 60k miles and there has never been coolant in the intake that I could see. Although I'm sure it is possible.
Pulled the #2 plug, it looked fine. Put it back in, runs fine again for now.
So yeah, if that's all it was then I'll be thrilled but somehow I really doubt it with this beast.We'll see what tomorrow brings I guess.
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Is your coolant level low by any chance?
As a matter of fact it was. Down 1/2 a gallon plus the overflow tank.
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NM about the codes. I had a brain fart. it's P0302 (DTC 0607) and P0325 (DTC 0304). And I just cleaned the pos and replaced the neg and I don't see any significant corrosion anywhere, just surface corrosion and even that's not too bad.
It comes and it goes. No real logic to it. I'll start it and all will be well and then I shut it down and turn it back on and it's back to running like crap.
Edit: Voltages at all fuses test normal. Injector circuit maybe?
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I'll go check the coolant but I don't think it's low. And it flashes 6 long and then 7 short.
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I went to start it today and nothing was working, at all. No lights, no power. Ok, wiggled the + post and it all worked again. Cleaned the terminal and all was well until... Started it again and now it's down a cylinder until it's not. And then it is again. got a flashing CEL. Checked the codes, P0304, P0607. [P0302, P0325]
Is my ECM dying? Loose connection somewhere? Any ideas?
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I'm debating on getting a inspection this year???
I don't know how the cops are in your part of the woods but in mine they haven't batted an eye. I'm about a year past due and mine's a DD. If you get stopped 9 chances out of 10 they give you a warning that turns into a ticket if you don't get it inspected in 2 weeks. Just keep up the registration and you should be fine.
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sounds like a loose connector/wiring issue to me. You could always just duct tape a flash light to the steering column.
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So within the past month. New LH CV and rotor, pads on both sides, patched the exhaust and new BFG AT KO 31x10.50s on the front.
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Saying this just incase you have a brain fart or something (not that you would) while working on this problem. Do not turn the crank or the cam sprockets without the T-belt on unless you are correcting a missaligned cam sprocket. And then only turn it the very small amount you need to get back to where it should be.
And just wondering, what cylinder(s) misfires to give you the flashing CEL. That would be a pretty good clue as to which bank has the timing issue and therefore which Cam to focus on.
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I am very confident that the timing is not the issue, everything was TDC when the belt was put on, and i followed the step by step guide to a T!!! we made triple sure the cams lined up the dimples, and that the crank lined up with the factory pen marks on the crank gear.
I'd bet my shirt on it being the timing. What you are describing is exactly what happens when the timing is off. And I would highly HIGHLY advise not to touch your distributor until you check your T-belt again.
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I only knew of one and it was the concept video. Sorry
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http://www.caranddriver.com/news/2013-nissan-pathfinder-spy-photos-news
All I have to say is Front. Wheel. Drive.
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Actually JamesRich is correct, the different materials used in cheap wires can affect the speed of the current.
Check this out: http://amasci.com/miscon/speed.html
That article isn't talking about resistance having an effect on the "speed" of the electricity. All other things being equal, it doesn't change your timing to have wires of different resistance. And even if your wire construction is different it might only change the time it takes the charge to get there by .00000001 second.
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One thing to remember, different plug wires will have different resistance that could change your ignition timing. If it takes longer for the spark to get to the plug because of increased resistance it will retard your timing and make it run retarded!
I found this problem with my brothers 94 Z71. He put autozone wires on it and it ran sluggish. When I checked the timing it was 4 degrees retarded.
James
I'm no electrical engineer but I'd don't believe resistance has any effect on the timing. Increased resistance will however lower the voltage which I could see changing the behavior of the ignition.
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I don't want to o have to deal with draining and refilling the tranny.
I'm not a mechanic but I doubt you'll ever seal it up without draining it. It's not that bad. You can prob do it in under 30min.
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Don't get me wrong. I think he should swap it for the 5VZ too but he's doesn't work on his own vehicles and just wants something his mechanic can drop in.
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found one for $750 with 136k on it. Doesn't sound too bad I guess. At least better than the guy that would sell one for $300 with unknown milage, but he pulled the plugs and they looked good so he thinks it will be fine...
Looking for advice on loan consolidation
in Off-Topic
Posted
You can consolidate federal loans fairly easily but all you save is the time it takes to pay one bill vs. however many loans you have now. If you have private loans it's going to double your interest rate (usually) to consolidate them so there is no reason to. And you can't get rid of them. Ever. Unless you can file for bankruptcy and even then you pretty much have to prove that you can't afford to eat.
Federal loans can also go into an income based repayment plan which isn't so bad if you lack funds.