rwd5021
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Posts posted by rwd5021
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Ok thanks. And yes nice spreadsheet! sorry for threadjacking.
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Don't think it's your tires. I assume when you say 70mph you talking about what you're speedo is reading. You are going 75-80 but you won't know that unless your talking GPS speed or something. The speed on the speedo vs gear is related directly to your RPM. I don't think that 3500 RPM at 70mph is that out of the norm. It's been a while since I drove my truck but I'm pretty sure it revs close to 2900 or so at 60. 4.3 gears and a 5 speed.
My mistake, I should have been more clear. When I said 70 that is a speedometer app reading. I always use that and didn't even think about it on my first post. The truck's speedometer is at 65 and rpm's are at 3500, 5th gear, vg30 engine, 31's, 4.3 gear ratio. Does THAT seem too high? I just want to make sure everything's ok. I never used to take the wd21 to 70 mph, but I just moved and will be on the freeway 40 miles every day now so I want to fix any problems that may cause this. It seems like I'll be wasting a lot of extra money on gas if not.
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Pretty sure, says hg43 in the engine bay. But now that I look at the sticker on the door it does say 235/75r15, is that 29"? If so, I guess that kinda makes up for it but like you say it still shouldn't be that high... Any more ideas??
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Ok so the bottom part shows what the rpm's SHOULD be at if everything is in working order right? My 5 speed with 4.3 gearing and 31" tires is considerably higher than this chart. Cruising at 70 my rpm's sit right at 3500 in fifth gear. Anybody know of anything in particular I should check into that could cause this?
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Hmm, what color matches rape red? Thanks for the info guys, I will be doing this soon.
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It will also let me run in low gear 2 wheel drive if I don't lock the hubs.
Can you damage anything by doing that or is it ok? Ever since I got my warns I've wanted to try..
Or will it only work that way if the front diff is welded?
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Ok thanks guys, just need to find the slave cylinder and I'll be able to get a better idea what I need to do. It sounds like I might be placing an order at rockauto soon. Hmmm, what else could I get..... I was pretty much expecting to have to replace the clutch so it'll be awesome if this fixes it. Maybe I'll see what I can get at the jy, got a list of stuff I need from them
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The R50 unit is superior in at least 1/2 a dozen ways.
I'll put "R50 center console" right next to "X-terra rack"...
B
x2
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The pedal shouldn't have 2" of free travel before there's resistance. The problem is almost certainly in the clutch hydraulics. It's possible there is just air in the system. If the slave cylinder is dry you don't have a leak down there. Is it using clutch fluid? If it got low at some point that's typically how air gets into the system. Also, brake fluid absorbs water and if the fluid is really old oxygen from said water will eventually collect and become 'air' bubbles in the system. If you do need to replace the slave cylinder I highly recommend replacing it and the master at the same time. If you replace just one the other seldom lives more than a year. Replace both together and they typically last 20 years if they are quality parts. No reputable shop will replace one or the other anymore, FYI.
Ok, I guess I should check/adjust the pedal height while I'm down there adjusting the free play, that seems simple enough.
I bled the clutch damper this morning and no changes yet. While we bled it, the pedal would stay to the floor when released, what does that mean? The directions were to release the pedal slowly after closing the bleeder valve, so I just pulled the pedal back very slowly..
I didn't have time to find the operating (slave?) cylinder to bleed that. Haynes says it's on the right side of the clutch housing, that means under the truck near where the trans meets the engine right?
Every time I've checked the clutch master cylinder it's been right at halfway so I don't think it's losing any fluid, it does look very dark though. It probably is really old.
Hopefully the parts are still good and bleeding them works, but thanks for the advice on replacing both.
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If it's hard to shift into gear, then it's most likely lack of pressure in your clutch system. Usually, a small lack of pressure only affects 1st gear because you need to fully release the clutch for 1st, but for the other gears you can half-ass it. Since it's 1st and 3rd, it could possibly to the knob on the end of your shifter. It's like a plastic cap type thing that moves the gates. The plastic cap may have chipped away over the years in some spots.
I took the shifter off to fill the transmission with redline and I don't remember it looking chipped or anything but maybe it's worth checking if bleeding it doesn't work.
You're supposed to be able to take the shifter out of gear when you aren't on the gas. I suggest becoming educated in rev matching.
I know how to drive it. I had a manual hardbody before but the clutch worked perfectly for the whole time I owned it, so no experience working with these parts.
With the prices of slave cylinders new, don't even bother replacing seals.
Ok, I see now a slave cylinder isn't even $20 that's not bad at all.
Thanks for the info!
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That looks good, I'll have to see if there's one at the jy. That will solve my cupholder issues. Everybody loves cupholders right? Hahaha jk but ya, good to know.
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Sounds like a clutch to me. Had the same problem, tried to bleed the system and could not get it to bleed. Ended up that the seal on the slave cylinder was leaking.
So you had to replace the slave cylinder then? Or can you get just the seal?
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Sounds like your clutch may not be releasing all the way. I would start by bleeding the clutch to be sure there is no air in the system. Also check to be sure your carpet or floor mat isn't keeping the pedal from traveling all the way. When you depress the clutch pedal how far does it travel before you feel significant resistance? You should be able to pull it out of gear when there's little or no load without using the clutch. As the load increases it gets harder to do. At full throttle it should be almost impossible to pull it out of gear without depressing the clutch, especially in the lower gears (not that I'd do it on purpose!).
I'll have to try bleeding it and see if anything changes, didn't have my hayne's manual earlier or I would've tried while bored at work.
Floor mat and carpet aren't the problem, the pedal goes to the floor.
First sign of resistance is at 2"
Good to know, so I can rule out the chance of it being a tranny problem.
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So I just need a bit of clarification on this from some of you who are more knowledgeable than I am. I'm guessing clutch but I don't know much. Once in awhile it's kinda hard to move the shifter into gear, only into first or third, all other gears seem ok. I have to press the clutch pretty much all the way to the floor to shift into any gear, so I'm pretty sure that needs replacement but would having problems only in some gears also indicate a problem with the transmission? I can also pull it out of gear without having to push in the clutch, happened on accident once in 3rd gear, that's the only one I've tried it on. If I have my foot on the gas it'll stay in gear even with a good amount of force pulling on it, but once I let off the gas I can just pull down on the shifter and it goes into neutral. So what does everybody think?
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Ya I've been out there too haha. Never did make it up "the wall" but my old tires were really bad. The flexy trails off to the left were fun tho. Robledo is where they have (or had) the chile challenge, not sure if they do it anymore but there are some crazy trails up there. I'm surprised none of those jeople mentioned it. Were they amazed with the pathy? And ya, I've spent one very cold night stuck in the desert with no way to give directions to where I was and I learned my lesson real quick. I know better, now.
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Dang, I guess it's a good thing i turned around then. Where do you normally go? There are some trails in the robledo mountains as well that you might be able to make it through with all that clearance.
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Sure is, Dona Ana Mountains, I see your from New Mexico, what city?
Las Cruces area, I recognized that big hill right away though I've never seen it up close. I went out that way once just wandering around but I was by myself and didn't wanna push the stock r50 too far. You think I would have been ok where you were at or was the sfd pretty much necessary?
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Nice! Is that up in the dona ana mountains?
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Sell that one with the wheel and put the $ towards a full size spare maybe?
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Yes, please do keep us informed on how this works under abuse. This is a great find.. just makes me mad I no longer have my crashed hardbody, never thought I'd need parts from that to upgrade a 4wd pathy.
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Hmm, what a coincidence haha.. I guess I have to add one of these to the neverending list.
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Or buy a patrol.
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How much could you really homebrew a sas for? If you were to make all the stuff they include in their kit, to their specs, what would it cost? I plan to sas my r50 when I can afford it, but I know it'll be crazy expensive, so I like the idea of saving a bit wherever possible. I sure hope it would end up ALOT cheaper than this, but unfortunately I don't have any of the tools or the skills required to fab anything, so this would most likely be the only option for someone like me. I'd rather spend 5 grand on a patrol and settle with a sfd for my r50, just my opinion tho...
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Neat option.. not sure that I'd want em on my truck but its nice to know that I could. Thanks for the info
What does your username mean?
in Off-Topic
Posted
Over 500 HP, I'm guessing it'll be pretty quick.
My username is pretty simple, I've got an r50 and a wd21, so rwd5021.