forrer13
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Posts posted by forrer13
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what is your location. i may be able to hook you up (i work for u haul)
I am just outside of Cincinnati Ohio, Hamilton Ohio 45013 actually
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check your pm...
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E-Mail to forrer13@netzero.com
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uhaul has them immediately in your area if you need em asap, but i think they are kinda pricey.
Not a big hurry. I want to buy a used trailer for hauling firewood but without a hitch on the Truck its all a bit pointless....
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i got one on my 90, should be compatible, lemme go see what it is, i think its class 2, but i'll check, and then i'll pm you
Sweet,
Is your 90 a 4 door?
If your willing to part with it I would take the hitch, receiver, ball and wiring harness too.
How much do you want for it all shipped to Cincinnati Ohio?
Thanks
DF
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I have placed this in the wanted ad section, but thought I might have more luck here.
I am looking for a tow hitch for a 94 Pathfinder. Preferably a class 3, but class 2 would work.
Anybody help me?
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I finally got tired of this whole gas gauge thing and ran some tests. I have 2 pathfinders one that is a 1990 SE wrecked the other a 1991 SE. I took the pump assembly out of both and tested them using the factory shop manual. The 1990 SE Gauge was way off on the resistance scale. Cleaned the carbon strip off with denatured alcohol and then tested it and it was within the resistance scale in the manual. On my 1991 It was withing the resistance scale from the start. I hooked it up out of the tank and did some tests with a buddy. adjusting the float up 1/4 of the way up put the gauge at just above the letter E. The tip of the pointer just going through the letter E. This is the same as if the float was all the way down. No changed in the gauge, even though with the meter it showed a change in resistance. When I moved the float to half way up the gauge moved to 1/4 mark on the gauge. when I moved the float 3/4 of the way up the gauge moved a little over between the half mark and full. and when the float was moved to the top the gauge move to the full mark Just a hair away from the F but not touching the F. I think I may try and replace the voltage regulator for the gauges and see if I get some better stability in the gauge that may shed some light on why my temp gauge never gets to half way up it sits mid way between the bottom and half. The shop manual shows it about 3/4 of the way up between cold and half at normal operating temp.
Mark
BTW I also tested my low fuel light and it does indeed work. The gauge was throwing me off since it would say empty when I would still have a 1/4 of a tank.
I would be very interested to hear what you find about your temp gauge. I have the same problem with mine, never goes above 1/4 way up the scale, usually stays just above cold.
I have replaced the temperature sender unit, but it made no difference at all.
Keep us informed.
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Yep, mine has the flip down cup holders on the underside of the lid. It was a clever design that each one is a different size for cans or bottles. But if you keep CD's in the bottom of the console sooner or later your gonna spill coffee or something all over them. Not to mention you cant use the arm rest if your using the cup holders.
I bought an el-cheapo cup holder from Wallmart and hook it under the lid of the console. It sits neatly above the e-brake and still gives access to the switches on the console. Best thing is it easily removes by opening the console lid, but will stay in place when you open the lid to access the console storage.
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Thank you, thats what I was looking for, I will trouble shoot this weekend.
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Is 15A the facory size fuse for the OEM fogs?
What is the factory wattage of the fogs?
Mine are 55W each and keep blowing the 15A fuse.
Should I fuse up to 20A or replace the bulbs with lower wattage?
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Ta Daa, it worked. Spacing the striker up with a washer under each side did the trick, no more flickering door open warning light.
But the weird thing is that the hatch does not turn on the cargo area light, even though the light has a 3 position switch. It does not light with the doors open either, but you can turn it on and off manually.
How does yours work? Do you think I also have a problem with the cargo area light?
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Sweet, the fogs were a no brainer, if I had of opened that little in line fuse cover by the battery I would have seen the blown 15A fuse, duh. Anyway problem 1 fixed.
I finally got the console out. There was so much crap collected down in those holes inside the arm rest I had to take penetrating oil and a small thin pointy file to clean the screw heads out enough to get the #3 scredriver into the heads of the screws. Console out, wires hidden, problem #2 fixed.
Thanks Guys, this forum looks like its gonna be as helpfull to me as www.preludepower.com
My other car is an 89 Honda Prelude with 4 wheel steering. But she doesnt need as much help (anymore) as the Pathfinda.
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So the switch is actually in the latch mechanism in the hatch, and by moving the striker part on the body of the truck, it will make a better connection with the switch inside the latch.
I did try to move the striker forward which helped the hatch close a little more snugly but didn't fix my problem.
I will try the washer solution at lunch and report back.
What does the little black plastic piece by the latch on the hatch do? It seems to lock the hatch without the key, is that right?
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i must realy be missing something, because i can not for the life of me find the switch.
Can someone send me a pic, or talk me through finding it?
I know I am not this dumb, help me before i loose my sanity...
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Is it a mechanical switch (Like the doors) or a mercury type switch inside the hatch?
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I am having a hard time removing the center console on my 94 Pathfinder.
I want to remove it to hide some stereo wires that run to the back of the truck.
There are two screws/ bolts recessed deep into the bottom of the center arm rest.
The problem seems to be that they are too tight to remove with a long hande phillips head driver, and the recessed hole in the plastic is too small to get a socket down onto. Not to mention all the crap that has made its way down into these holes that I have to dig out first.
What method have you guys used in the past to remove the center console?
Second question pertains to my fog lights.
The light on the switch comes on when you turn the fog lights on, and the switch is working fine but there is no power getting to the lights themselves.
Is there a relay in the circuit that could be bad. If it were the fuse then the switch wouldnt be getting power right? What components are in the fog light wiring, between the switch and the lights?
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This is exactly what I was looking for.
I am experiencing the same problem verbatim.
My question is where is the switch located on the rear hatch? I have looked all around the hatch and the body of the vehicle where the hatch closes and cant find a switch visible anywhere.
Thanks.
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I changed out the temperature sender unit for about $8 but it made no difference to the needle position, still less than 1/4 up the scale. Next I will replace the thermostat when I do the timing belt this spring. That will be right ater I replace the CV boots. Untill then its too cold here to be out working in an unheated garage. See you in spring.
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I got mine with bells on it..
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Thank you all for your quick responses.
Some notes:
Fan clutch seems ok, fan spins freely with engine off, so I think I will change out the temp sensor for the gauge, and see what happens.
I am going to try out the split boots before I remove the axles to change them out properly. This I can do right away and see how they hold up until spring.
I will keep you all informed of my progress, thanks again.
Damon
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Hi guys, I am new to this forum and have a few questions for you Pathfinder gurus.
I have a 94 SE with 166000 miles, seems to run well and most everything works but I have discovered a couple of issues since I bought the rig.
1. The temperature gauge reads low all the time. When I say low I mean the needle only comes up off cold by less than 1/4 inch. Is this normal? Do you think someone has removed the thermostat or is there an issue with the gauge or sender unit?
2. Both outer CV boots are torn and need replaced. The axles are still covered with grease inside so as long as I don't use 4 wheel drive the repairs can wait till spring. However is there a tutorial or link somewhere on how to how to replace the boots without pulling the hubs apart? Is it possible to do this by simply unbolting the front axles at the pumpkin and sliding the axle out?
Thats about it for now, I am sure I will have more to follow.
Thanks in advance
Damon
Tire Pressure Fun
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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I seem to remember hearing you should go off the posted pressure on the inside of the door jamb, rather than the poster pressure on the sidewall of the tire.
You should also remember the tires will gain some pressure as they get warm.