maddoc
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Posts posted by maddoc
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Thats not a problem, lets see what I can come up with for you
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+1 to above reply, you can do a lot with three things, proper off road tires, at least a LSD in back and selectable locker up front, and a winch. tire size isn't all that critical here local we do a stock tire jeep run, where we take our lifted jeeps and put the stock size tire back on and run the trails, now we also run hard core trails but if you stick to mild trails a rig with 31" tires lockers and a winch could easily pass, especially if your not concerned about body damage.
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The chances of something large enough or with enough mass to knock a belt off or cause damage is pretty slim, but since I'm not a mechanical engineer I would assume that the engineers at Nissan designed the cover for a reason. That being said, the cover being off doesn't sound like it had anything to do with your belt splitting. More likely, the belt split due to manufacturer defect or something sharp rubbing on the belt. Hope nothing too serious happened to the internals
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Okay what I was looking at earlier wasn't the resistor. My resistor was all taped up to where I couldn't see it, so I was able to test it and it appears to be good as the resistance is right at 2.2k ohms. I'm thinking my gauge must be on the brink. Thank you!
If it was me I would replace the gauge. Sounds like everything else is working
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From what I got out of the wiring diagram, the Tach gets a signal from the coil through a resistor pack which should be at 2.2k Ohms resistance, being intermittent it sounds like loose connection somewhere, or a busted wire that looses contact. It could also be the gauge itself having internal problems, if the resistor is good, and all the connections are clean and tight, then i would start with the gauge.
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glad to see you figured it out. bulbs go out all the time.
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Is the Transfercase locking into gear and the front end is still not pulling or is the Tcase not going in gear at all?
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Anyone have an FSM with wiring diagrams for an 87SE V6 5 speed? I need the wiring mostly for the ECM harness but an under hood diagram would be helpful too.
James
Here is the over all, but I can get you better ones if i knew what part exactly you were working on, EX: starter, or TPS
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Going to have to pull the instrument cluster apart again, the bulb that lights up the left side of my speedo went out. Figures seeing as how i was just in the cluster last weekend.
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Was going to say, now that the cluster is apart perfect time to plastic polish the clear cover inside and out.
I Did that a Little bit mostly just removed the dust and dirt from the gauges and cover
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Sorry about the crappy pics but basically the FSM for my 87 says the most common problems are going to be with spark plugs, poor connection at the air flow meter, or clogged injector
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See if this helps
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174k but mine sat for a few years in WY when the fuel pump went out.
New fuel pump and fuel tank, oil and filter, spark plugs and wires and she started up for the first time in years like she had been running all along
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you could always do something dorky as a temp needle till you find one like glue one of those little plastic sammich swords as a needle or I've seen zip ties made into needles already. not the cleanest looking but gets by and is defiantly a more 'unique' approach as a get-by (i personally think someone had their hands in those gauges to start with, having white needles on an orange numbered gauge)
for your vin question I probably overlooked being answered at the top of this page too, "JN8" = multi purpose passenger vehicle . The 11th digit of the vin is what plant it was from, "C" for Tennessee "W" for it took a trip from the good ol' island of Kyushu
I was thinking along the same lines I could probably make a jig to hold the needle and glue it back together.
Also a little history on this pathy, it was a rollover and was repaired by a shop which is why i have a aftermarket sunroof on a truck that shouldn't have one
Cool mine is a "W" so looks like it came from Japan. Thanks for the information
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you're probably better than me, but I have terrible luck with those gauges. Whenever I try to pull the needle out (in the JY or my own truck) I break the needle, break the little rod, or I break the gauge completely. I had to replace my temp. gauge to do this but then snapped my fuel gauge on the re-installation and had to swap it out. No fun.
Yeah, just wish I would go back and be a little more careful with it. No luck on the local junk yards, none around here have pathy's or hard bodies with my instrument cluster.
What I started with.
How the needle broke
Cluster Pulled apart
ODO gears looked ok
cleaned up ready to go back in
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Older Nissans and Datsuns (probably all older cars) are very prone to melted/warped speedo needles. A truck, especially a 24 year old one, has probably been in the sun for a lot of its life and the plastic on the speedo needle warped. I have see them warped beyond belief, but I have also seen them warped so slightly that you can't even tell. It's so subtle, that you can't even tell, but the needle is rubbing and catching on the plastic that makes up the gauge. The needle well increase just fine, to 70mph you said, but it will catch and jump down and eventually will stop moving at 30mph you said. Also, the pin/rod that attaches the needle to the mechanism behind the gauge may be bent. The bent pin in combination with the warped needle might be your problem.
I can see the sun-faded paint on the hood, and the general condition of the vehicle. It was ridden hard and put away wet. I don't think any possibilities can be ruled out without being checked.
All of the Pathfinders had manual speedometer cables until 1994. That's when Nissan implemented electronic speed measuring. A 1987 Pathfinder would have a speedometer cable, but I don't think it could go bad in the way you might be thinking. The cable could have stretched or frayed, but in that case it wouldn't work at all.
I pulled apart the Instrument cluster and tried to bend the needle back straight, but as soon as i touched it the 24 year old plastic shattered. on a good note, when it shattered it also dropped back to 0mph and now properly works. I just need to figure out how to repair/replace the needle.
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Word thanks for the insight, that was my conclusion as well. If the cable was damaged enough to cause problems it would also not work. i had the gauge off a while back and rolled the truck slowly and the cable rotated just fine at low speeds. My guess was the gauge was sticking.
This pathy sat for a few years in wyoming so i would assume that triple digit weather beating down on it unprotected took its toll.
next question, since the dash is pretty shot and eventually this thing is going to get gutted and caged. would a aftermarket manual speedometer work or would i need to shell out the bucks to find a OEM replacement?
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Haven't done any work to the pathfinder in a while, its been my DD since pulling the axles out from under my jeep. I need to figure out the speedo. It sits at 25mph when stopped and while driving up till about 45-50mph then it starts reading normal and works proper all the way out to 70 then as i slow it sticks again about 30 and stays there all the way to stop and when driving at city speeds. any ideas? i think its the speed sensor or the speedometer unit itself.
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removed my neutral inhibitor switch today, diagnosed that it was bad and that i couldnt repair it. Looked in the FSM for how it operates, which is just continuity between the wires so i hacked off the switch and wired all the connectors together for a temporary fix till a new one comes in. Which fixed all of my intermitant lights and wiring problems.
Here is how it works
when in park the switch connects wires 2 and 5 sending continuity up the line telling the computer that the transmission is in park. when the switch starts to go bad it no longer reads park which the computer still thinks that you are in drive not enabling the starter in park. In my case it also randomly lit the fuel, AT oil temp, and parking brake lights at different times, also would not allow cruise control to come on and a few other interesting things that i cannot explain.
Since i connected all the wires at once when the computer sends a signal down wires 2 and 5 it recives continuity, along with all the other gears.
PS for anybody wanting to repair/replace one of these they are on the right side of the transmission and the connector is wedged up between the tranny and firewall there is barely enough room to fit a arm in there to disconnect it/reconnect it.
Next i need to reassemble my center console and dash, figure out why my spedo reads randomly what it wants to and replace a lot of light bulbs.
pics to come
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what if the battery is only a bi-product, if the charging system was starting to go out the battery would be low causing slow starts then when the system started working again then it would bring it back up, when the alternator goes out for good then the battery doesn't get charged thus resulting in no power. thats my $.02, for what its worth.
as for the idiot lights, even though I had a bad alternator and the idiot lights were on, they are still on with a good alternator. I'm not entirely convinced that its a 100% guarantee that if the alternator is out the lights are on.
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Fan control only working on certain speeds is the blower resistor which is mounted in the duct behind the glove box, good idea to remove it and vacuum out what ever may be in there.
As for the vin # starting with JN8 I believe all pathfinders were made in Japan, send me the Vin # in a PM and I'll look it up if you would like.
Dug into the wiring today, the ducting was clean, and as for the resistor the connector is not receiving any power on setting 4. I also have continuity between the connecter at the blower motor and the resistor for the setting 4 wire which is correct according to FSM. its just not receiving any power, right now i think the problem lies more at the switch or the relay.
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Adding a few more symptoms to the Brake, A/T oil temp, and Fuel indicator light issue;
Lights come on during the following;
any time the transmission is in park
when in drive, if i idle for a few minutes the lights go off, as soon as i hit the gas the lights come on and off if im at idle or touch the gas pedal. holding part throttle for a minute the lights go off then come on at WOT, i can also hear the WOT sensor click and the lights come on.
this is more of a note for my self for future reference when i find out what is causing the lights,
Parts i have changed since owning the car
fuel tank
fuel pump
plugs and wires
air filter
alternator
battery
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Ok MORE on my starting issues. This morning the truck started "funky" turning over slowly at first and then finally "catching" and running.
I drove home shut it off. About 30 minutes later go back out to start it and NOTHING, ABSOLUTELY NOTHING, NO click, nothing dash lights come on but seriously nothing...
Has my starter finally bit the bullet?
UGH!!!!!
that would be a dead battery.
what i would do is jump the battery off another car and then run a multimeter set to voltage across the battery and note the voltage, take a look at my thread located here as i have pics of what the voltage should be between. im thinking your alternator stopped charging the battery which is why it was slowly dieing
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I would get a second opinion on what all needs to be replaced, that sounds like alot of money for anything less than a new axle
87 Pathy
in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Wow its been a minute since ive done anything to the pathy. Mostly just my DD while my jeep was with out axles.
Currently deployed so not much work is getting done to the car, just picked up a instrument cluster on ebay from a 87, gauges config matches mine and the needles look good. Guy said it worked fine when pulled so we shall see.
she is sitting in my backyard right now, battery pulled and put on a trickle charger, covered with tarps to help keep some of the snow off. I should be back in the states around Feb and I want to go through the front end suspension/steering and get it tightened up