bartmk

So, after downloading the service manual and doing some research it turns out that my Pathy does in fact have a A/T oil cooler, granted it is the factory one. All the talk of A/T coolers on this forum just made me assume that I didn't have one to start with. Why would the little owner's manual include towing ratings for both 1997 Pathy's with and without A/T oil coolers? Was that just an option?

You know, I was wondering about the tranny cooler myself. Damn, this is going to sound stupid so prepare yourself. The smaller radiator to the bottom left of my "main radiator" looks like a tranny cooler to me but when you follow the hoses leaving from it they go to the "main radiator" again. Does that even make sense? Where would the tranny cooler hoses enter the transmission? And yes, I have the title. If I were to replace it I'd want a 1/2 ton truck probably. A Tundra or Z71 maybe.

I need your guys' advice on this. So, I've got my '97 Pathy SE with 118,000mi on it now. I just put an intake in it and a fresh timing belt but she'll need new tires and maybe front brakes in the next few months. I'm about to purchase a 15' enclosed trailer to haul a couple quads with for weekend trips. I'll be making my weekend trips down to the Oregon dunes from Washington (long drive). My Pathfinder doesn't have a tow package or a tranny cooler. Is it even going to be worth my money to invest in tires, tranny cooler, tow package and possibly brakes for the Pathfinder or should I consider getting a vehicle a little more tow-worthy?

Just curious to know if anyone has replaced their lights behind the climate control dials. Only half of mine is lit up. Seems like an easy task. Thought I'd post before tearing the dash apart tomorrow. Thanks, Bart

Roger that....over

Having some trouble with my e-brake light (the one to the right of my tach). It keeps turning on and off for a few minutes at a time, sometimes longer. Doesn't seem to have any pattern to it. When it does turn off though and I put the e-brake on it lights up as it should and turns off when the brake is put back to the off position. Kind of annoying at night with that light red light shining in my face. Any pointers as to where the postion switch is for that? or if I can just disconnect the switch? Thought I'd consult the rest of you guys before I just start tearing the console apart.

I'd like to get some more info on this subject too. If I were to run a new and improved ground to my block would I want to run say a 4 guage wire from the negative terminal on the battery to the block somewhere? Or run the wire from the block to the frame? Thanks for the insite.

You have to disconnect the wiring harness that goes to your hazard flashers and the one going to the rear defrost (right below the flashers). After you get those disconnected you should just be able to lie the console trim right over your shifter with plenty of room to work on the stereo. You don't have to disconnnect the cigarrette lighter or the rear wiper control. My 97's an auto trasmission... I would assume this would work with a manual as well.

Just what you need for your Pathfinder... the Lambo door kit! Order yours today! hahaha http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/performa...997&partid=8218

88pathoffroad wrote in the tech section: Does that mean that this problem does not apply to my '97 with the 3.3L?

I'm wanting to find a shop to trouble-shoot the ticking noise my engine is making. I just moved to here to Olympia, WA a few months back and don't know of any trustworthy shops in town. My question is, what's the best way to find a good shop? Are there any websites out there with ratings or reviews? I've heard so much trash talk about dealers I'm hesitant to take it there. But on the other hand, if they are a Nissan dealer, and all they work on is Nissan vehicles, wouldn't that be the place to go? Then there's the little hole-in-the-wall places like "Japanese Auto Doctor," those places seem kind of sketchy.

Can someone explain to me the pros and cons of getting rid of the cats with these new headers? I don't actually know what the cats do but I do know they are crazy expensive to replace.

Found a decent solution to my problem. Bought one of these things from a local car audio store for $39: http://www.pie.net/store/index.cfm?action=...ails&ItemID=252 Got rid of about 80% of the noise in my lines. When this summer rolls around and the weather gets better up here in Washington I'm going to bypass the factor amp altogether though and install some new speakers. Times like these I wish I had a garage. Until then, this'll do. The little converter box is pretty cool though, it has gain controls for all 4 speaks so you can adjust the output level going from the aftermarket deck to the factory amp.

Factory amp is still in the loop. Didn't think that would make any difference considering that the stock deck was connected the exact same way without any interference. On the wiring harness supplied by Crutchfield there is a black "amplifier shield ground" is what they call it. Even if I don't connect this wire to a ground, the amp still works and the stereo still has the interference. I don't see how bypassing the amp would help, the stock deck never had any problem.

Just install a brand new Panasonic deck in my '97 SE. I've installed many a stereo and have never encountered this problem before. When I just turn my volume on (level 1-3) there is an intense buzzing coming from all speakers. When the engine is revved the buzzing increases with the rpms. I have tried multiple grounding points under the dash with no success. I used a wiring harness from Crutchfield to connect the deck with the factory harness. Would an easy soltion just be a run a ground strait to the negative side of the battery? Any ideas?