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Pathy415

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Posts posted by Pathy415

  1. Can you lock/unlock the doors with the driver side switches or is this just with the remote?

     

     

    Dose the remote do anything at all? :scratchhead:

    I mean, from what you are saying it sounds like the remote works, but not everything responds to it, but other things do. That's very strange.

    I would have said it might be the door lock solenoid, but if you can lock/unlock the door with the button inside then that's out. And the dome light raises further questions.

    Now that I think about it, my best guess would be the module that the keyfob talks to, or perhaps the connections from this equipment to the lock solenoids and dome light.

    I'm not quite sure how that's all laid out but it seems like your vehicle is not getting this "signal" to the devices which are fully functional.

     

    I can't unlock the doors(drivers side) with neither the driver side master switch nor the remote. If it was one or the other I could narrow things down a bit but unfortunately it's neither.

     

    When you say door lock solenoid that's the same as actuator right? The dome light works fine if I open the door manually, it will light up or if I'm in the car and flip the dome light switch it will go on.

     

    I think the keyfob is fine since it will unlock the trunk, and the two passenger side doors on the left( if you're facing the car). I'm thinking it may be the wiring or both solenoids are out?

  2. OK so my drivers door lock won't lock/unlock with the remote but I can still do it manually with the key or by hand(flipping the open/lock switch right next to the handle). In addition, the dome light doesn't turn on when I hit the unlock button on the remote but I can still turn it on manually with the switch from the inside or if I open a door it will turn on.

     

    I have the exact same(lock/unlock) issue with the rear passenger door on the drivers side but I bought the car with that existing issue. The issue I mentioned above just happened like a day ago.

     

    Anyone have any thought to what it might be?

     

    Thanks!!

  3. My apologies in advance. Newbie here on this forum (usually on the Nico forum)and yes, I have a 2wd, but I'll chime in with my MPG.

     

    1999.5 LE 2wd Auto

    Running Valvoline 80w90 Synthetic Blend gear oil for the diff.

    Gastrol GTX 5w30

    Valvoline conventional ATF

     

    I've gotten a worse of 16 mpg(50/50) and a high of 19mpg(30%city/70%highway). If I'm easy on the throttle I can get 20 mpg on the highway.

  4. Here's a youtube video that explains bench bleeding.

     

    You'll probably be able to find more videos, I just grabbed the first one that showed up on the search.

     

    If you're bleeding a new master cylinder I think it should come with parts to perform the bench bleeding procedure.

  5. I've owned the car for about a year and never got around to fixing the drivers side passenger door lock. All the other locks work fine but when I try to lock the passenger door from the inside using the master switch or arming the car using the remote it won't activate(lock). Does anyone know what could be the problem other than the actuator?

     

     

    I'm new to this forum and have owned the truck for almost a year. Any help is appreciated!

  6. I've owned the car for about a year and never got around to fixing the drivers side passenger door lock. All the other locks work fine but when I try to lock the passenger door from the inside using the master switch or arming the car using the remote it won't activate(lock). Does anyone know what could be the problem other than the actuator?

     

     

    I'm new to this forum and have owned the truck for almost a year. Any help is appreciated!

  7. Hello and welcome! I'm sort of new to the forum myself, but I have had these belts off a few times.

     

    Just to be sure, this is for a 3.3L VG33? Your thing says you have a 99 or something. Different vehicle?

     

    Anyway, you should not have to remove the rad shroud or fan, you can if you want to though as it would make things easier by just a tad. The only belt that needs to be looped around the fan is the belt that turns the fan/water pump and alty IIRC. It's plenty long enough to get over the fan.

     

    The third belt you speak of I presume is the power steering belt, it's a "V" belt and the way it is tensioned is different than the other two. The whole p/s pump can be adjusted back and forth to tension or loosen the belt. It functions in a similar way as the tension pulleys for the other two belts, but it's the p/s pump that moves, not an idler pulley. The p/s pump adjustment has to be accessed from underneath.

     

    I hope this helps, and if you have any more questions just post em' up.

     

    Oh wait, the MY 99's have the VG33 right? After that went the VQ35?

     

    I'll try and tackle it when I get some time. Thanks for the advice!!!

  8. Hello, new to this forum and wanted to see if there's a How To for the drivebelts on a 3.3L R50. I used the search function in various forums but couldn't find a walkthrough.

     

    I can remove the lower fan shroud to gain more access but it looks like the upper shroud comes off with the radiator. Also the fan itself is sorta in the way, am I supposed to pull the fan off or is it possible to loop the belts around it?

     

    I only saw two bolts where I could loosen and remove the belt but what about the 3rd belt?

     

    I'm basically doing a complete tune up and have done pretty much everything (diff fluid, tranny filter/fluid, pwr steering fluid, coolant,fuel filter, plugs, dist cap, rotor etc. etc.) except for the drive belts (timing belt was done by previous owner about 30K miles ago).

     

    Any help is appreciated! Thanks!!!

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