2milehi

All right - one step forward two steps back. But those back steps brought forth valuable knowledge. So here are the two steps back. Top plenum is removed along with the fuel rail and injectors. The good news is that I put a Subaru side feed injector in place of the #1 stock injector. No fuel leaks and the Pf ran fine. I will use some lock-tight to keep the cap screws from backing out. They don't fully seat but there was no fuel leaking. The nozzle does stick out a 1/4" more but it does not interfere with anything in the intake port. So this means other side feed injectors will work!

I did get the Walbro pump in the mail yesterday but that is about it. I haven't had much of a chance to do anything on the Pf. Responsibilities with work and rental properties. And the next few weeks don't look much better. The injectors have also brought me to a stop. I am having trouble finding higher flowing injectors that will fit into the stock fuel rails. Nobody really knows if other types of side-feed injectors will work in the stock fuel rails. I really don't want to start hand-crafting fuel lines in there. That will really up the price of this power-adder install.

So after a dozen or so drill bits (broken), a broken easy-out, and a mangled screwdriver I finally extracted the broken stud from the passenger side rear exhaust port. Also the passenger side manifold was "open". I pulled the manifold off and checked for squareness and the rear port was almost a 1/4" out of square. I had another manifold that was a lot more square. This extraction was pretty rough on the threads. I really couldn't get a 11/32 drill square to the hole for the 10 x 1.25 exhaust stud. I first used a 9 x 1.25 tap and that followed the 8 x 1.25 threads pretty good. Then in the same fashion I used a 10 x 1.25 tap to cut the threads. That also worked well and left me a hole that was pretty square to the exhaust port. So all this effort was not in vain. It took care of the exhaust leak and it sounds so much better. Now if I can find some bigger drop-in injectors that don't cost a small fortune. I also have a Walbro fuel pump on the way.

Looking locally, these right now don't exist. And I tried ebay and craigslist with little success. Any other recommendations?

Very cool - that dual throttle body engine looks so bad ass! Looks like everything should fit under the hood. Good work!

Just stock cams. I have about $700 total in the turbo build. Cams would break the bank.

If I swap an engine, it would be a DOHC varity BUT I would have to redo the exhaust. I can't see how 10% more liters yield that much more power. From Wikipedia The VG30E 3.0 L (2960 cc) produced 153 hp (114 kW) and 182 ft·lbf (247 N·m). The VG33E 3.3 L (3275 cc) produced 170 hp (134 kW) and 202 ft·lbf (274 N·m). Like I figured - about a 10% increase in power when going to 3.3 liters. Granted I have never driven the VG33. Thanks! I am in need of bigger injectors (another post) and a bigger fuel pump (Walbro).

I am shooting for 15 psi boost. I will never stick it on a dyno since I can road tune it pretty good. My "goal" is to be able to pull a 19' boat and camping gear up Eisenhower tunnel (11,000 feet above sea level) at 65 MPH. For the pressure regulator, I found a controllable set-up using a vice. Slowly squeeze the vice until about 2 psi over desired pressure and then release.

You got my number I did it on a Subaru and it was pretty easy. Figure the Pf shouldn't be too different.

This might be the answer to my question. And with bumping up fuel pressure via "tweaking" the pressure regulator that should get me enough fuel with some room to spare. Thanks!

Thanks for pointing that out but the fuel rails are $180. For $40 more ($220 total) I can get 6 side feed STi injectors that fit in the factory fuel rails.

My goal is 15 psi as long as I have the fuel system to back it up.

I am needing injectors in the 500+ cc/min capacity and of high impedance flavoring. Not much luck on getting injectors only from a 300ZX.

Nice job - you had a lot more to tackle with building up that hybrid tranny. I am very interested in pics.

The tuning software that come with MegaSquirt can log data. So I go to a captured log and look for a max value and find that my duty cycle for the injectors is at 80%. I will post a screen shot later. It is a pretty cool program.

So I am starting to hit a ceiling with the turbo project. As suspected, I am finding that the injectors are not big enough for lots of boost. I have started searching the 'net for injectors and I am seeing a hefty price tag for bigger Nissan injectors. Anyone know where I can source used 300Z (or some other form of turboed Nissan engine) injectors at a decent price? Thanks PS I sourced STi injectors for my Subaru buildup for $150 for all 4 so I know it can be done.

So did some tuning and my injectors are at 80% duty cycle at 5500 RPM and 7 PSI boost. No point to tune for higher boost until I get bigger injectors and a Walbro pump installed.

Some updated pics. I added the MAT sensor, the BOV, and air intake/filter. The wiring is mostly complete as well as intercooler ducting And the brains behind the whole operation. Once done tuning I will remove the wires for the wide band controller and install the rest of the covers over the ECU.

This item will definitely determine the pH of your coolant. Test Strips There seems to be some subjectivity with a volt meter.

Heavy brick needs a power adder. You could add a turbo/intercooler, but then you have to add a programmable ECU. I pull a 19' boat and that inspired me to add the power adder. I also thought about adding a Xtera supercharger but that would require a hole in the hood.

First before throwing $100s at this problem confirm that there is an issue with the manifolds. You more than likely have a broken stud. Remove the broken stud and install another stud and I am betting that you will be good to go. To be even more super-inexpensive, to go a junkyard and remove hardened steel exhaust studs from say a Mitsubishi.

Fixed

To me it is better to drain the radiator, block, and heater core then add 50/50 mix. No pockets of tap water. I tried the vinegar thing with the engine running. It just ate the water pump seal. A gallon of antifreeze is about $10, a gallon of distilled water is $0.50. So two gallons of 50/50 is ~$11 Two gallons of 50/50 premix will run you $19. I'll gladly save $8 by mixing it myself.

Yeah...Like mechanics have never made stories up before. What was wrong with the radiator and water pump? If the radiator was corroded, then tap water is to blame.

Wait for the water pump to go or a hose to split then drain the radiator and block. Then add a 50-50 mix of anti-freeze and distilled water. Coolant doesn't really deteriorate so if your coolant tests good leave it alone. As for flushing the system don't do it. Tap water is used which has minerals in it and that can cause problem later.