CrazyLarry
-
Posts
19 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by CrazyLarry
-
-
Got a Borg & Beck clutch kit (press plate, T/O brg, disk, pilot bushing and even an alignment tool) for $107!
The crankshaft will have a large pilot bushing for the auto trans that will need removed before installing manual trans pilot bushing.
I just did a auto to manual swap and discoverd this.
-
I have not rebuilt a vg30 yet,
But i know with a SBC you soak them and pump them by hand using a push tube until no bubbles come out.
vg30 not having push tube not sure if you can hand pump them.
-
IMO A Manuel gauge is better, But the pipe threads in the block are metric.
I tapped mine 1/8 pipe tap and used a shop vac to suck out the metal shavings with the oil filter off to install a gauge.
The words metal shavings and oil passage should never be in the same sentence! LOL
I don't recommend this unless your damn sure all metal is removed!!!
-
My starter was doing the click click click click....then start thing,
so I pulled the starter and changed the solenoid and it has worked great ever since.
-
Yes, it's the one next to the oil filter.
-
MR510 is exactly right about the twist and bump steer.
-
IF the motor still runs smooth its probably just normal condensation coming from exhaust.
But I would have the oil leak fixed.
While the motor is cold take the radiator cap off and make sure it is full of water and then start the engine with cap off and if water
comes out the radiator in the first 30 seconds the head or head gasket is bad.
-
im having similar problems with my d21, the fuel check valve on the line coming out of the tank was clogged, and a second line, what i think is vacuum line is clogged and broken around the front passenger side tire... is this second line a vacuum line? It T's off and goes down to the top of the front diff, i think the other end goes to the top of my auto trans. im guessing these are fairly important for shifting, are they not?
slade, That "second line" is just a vent line for the front diff and trany.
-
Tighten the manifold bolts might get you by for a while.
-
The black valve would indicate that cylinder is running rich or burning oil.
You might check for a leaking injector or bad sparkplug or SPwire.
-
You might want to check the fusable links, they are located by the power steering resivore.
mine hade a bad connection and had same problem you are having.
-
Yes, my own design, The drag link is 5/8 hiem joints and the tierods are 3/4 hiems with 5/8 high misalignment bushings.
The only weak link is my hands,LOL If you stuff a wheel in a rock or ditch it will jerk the wheel out of your hands.
The only draw back is the changed geometry will give about 2" of bumpsteer, but for off road only I dont notice it.
-
Spent about a day making my own from 1/4" plate.
I cant afford calmini they think its made of gold.
-
1
-
-
I know this is a crappy Photoshop image but what does everyone think???
It would be fun to do this on one of my trucks!
Looks like a Lada... HA!
I tried that, I just did not know when to stop choping! LMFAO
-
1
-
-
The backlash and tooth pattern should be checked after installing.
-
I use the welded diff for off road only, It is very hard to turn on paved roads and could be dangerous!
I have the gears in this pathy.
-
has anyone welded up the spider gears in these axles? the rear, obviously. im too cheap for a locker. also my truck is off-road only, so i dont have to worry about it on the road.
side note, i pulled the rear axle outta my dead pathy thinking i could use it for my Hb... turns out they have different gear ratios.. lol
Welded mine with 110 volt wire welder .035 mild steel wire,
It has held up real good.
Pathy or Pathfinder?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
I call mine Pathmaker, Small trees are no problem. LOL