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Posts posted by m0nkeyprince
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Im planning on siwtching to polyurethane bushings for my lower control arms, however i dont have a press or access to one. would this work?
also, to cut off the metal band left inside after the bushing has been burned off, a good ol' recipricating saw would do the trick yes?
any input would be appreicated, thanks
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i looked at the website, and whoah! you did all that for the rear disc brake conversion? thats some spirit, it looks like a b*cth to do. Maybe when i have more time, ill try it out, really want rear brake disc... but now, i need to focus on front rotors and pads first..hmmm i think im leaning on the dba 4000 + ebc 7000 green stuff right now, if i could find a deal for the dba's then ill probably take it
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monterey? thats crazy, i go down there all the time! i m from cupertino, its near san jose, yeah, CA-17 can really take a toll on your brakes, and suspension, luckily im getting my shocks and struts in a week or two, where do you live at now?
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you have a point, but i drive through mountain roads quite often, and ive only expierience brake fade twice, they were almost the scariest moments of my life, so i was thinking better rotors would keep cooler a bit. thanks for the replies!
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right now, ive already decided on ebc greenstuff 7000's but for the rotors, im still debating.
DBA 4000, with "kangaroo paw" cooling, the 6x6 wiper design http://dba.com.au/4000-series
or
anybody used these rotors before?
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hmm just a thought, but have you checked the child safety lock? maybe it was switched on by accident?
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I just got my Kyb's delivered this morning but when i looked at it, the quality was just horrible. The weld between the eye and the shock body looked as if it was dont by soemone who never did a weld in his life before.Also the paintjob was also pretty bad. then i look at the code number on the shock and i understand why now, it was made in fckn malaysia, not that i had anything against that, but i was so sure it was made in japan and at least the shock would look a little better. I mean, it dosnt matter too much, as they both are going under my car, but i dont want my gas-a-just flatting out after a couple thousand miles, or the eyelets to break off. Anyone check where theirs are made from?
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thanks all! yea, i have found some GREAT posts on timing belt installs so that shouldnt be a problem, i have a couple projects still, mainly, my shock/strut, rotor/pads, and currently my cv axle rebuild.
Hey precise1, youve been to lake berryessa yea? i go rafting there whenever i can, best damn lake ive ever been so far, im sure Santa Rosa is near it, i saw the highway signs on my way there.
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Ran RP for a short while but saw an analysis that shows RP wearing out really fast, and hearing bout their marketing practices. So now i stick with good ol' Mobil1 5w-30 along with various filters, K&N (which i think is over proced, just like RP) bosch, and now i got a great deal on amazon, $12 for a pack of 2 mobil1 EP syn filters which many people swear by.
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I have a 1998 qx4 which is nearing its 100,000 mile bday, along with the timing belt change which i kinda dread doing. currently im working on replacing the boots of my front left cv axle, its taking a while because of parts, etc. To my knowledge, i am told that the pathfidner and qx4 are essentially the same SUv? looking at many of the posts, no one seems to have a qx4.
improv Bushing press
in The Garage
Posted
thanks for the pics trailchaser, so the poly bushings dont need a metal band inside like the stock ones? How big is that fitting guide you have ?
i like my1path's idea better, ill try that instead, or maybe some vice grips first, see if they will work.
what do people use for the lube? i have seen "greasable" trailing arms so i might as well use the correct lube to get it in there in the first place