m0nkeyprince
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Posts posted by m0nkeyprince
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very nice
though it's weird, when I was looking for rancho shocks a while back, there is no part number for our qx4's
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The #5 injector is in plain sight if I recall correctly. Not so on the other side of the engine (cyls 2,4,6).
The knock sensor isn't directional, so it can't "know" which cylinder had a misfire. I think it throws the "multiple cyl misfire" code, whatever code number that is.
The ECU will throw a specific cylinder misfire code for a (detectable) bad injector, along with a couple other things.
thnk you
and thanks for the PEA tip towncivilian, i just got the fuel injector cleaner, ill look for the fuel system cleaner
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The engine only has one knock sensor, so it can't throw a code for a specific cylinder. There's a good chance it has to do with #5's fuel injector because that is one of the only things that are detectable for a cylinder-specific misfire code.
a P03XX is the general code for specific cylinder misfire, so since youre saying the 3.3's only knock sensor cannot detect cylinder specific misfires, that its most likely detecting a fuel injector problem? im a bit confused because if it's the fuel injectors, wouldnt the code be for that instead of a specific cylinder code?
anyways, ill throw in a bottle of techron fuel injector cleaner
and if youre right, would a fuel injector be hard to replace?
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I changed the sparkplugs myself not too long ago, and yes, even the infamous #6 plug, I changed it all with NGK Laser iridiums and NGK spark plug wires, which i checked yesterday all seem to be perfect, even the #5 sparkplug
After i cleared the code, and started the car, the problem was gone, so it's only a matter of time before the engine starts shaking hard when i start it
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So today it happened again, this time, even when i went onto D, the engine was still rough, though the RPM looked stable and i finally got a code
a P0305, a cylinder 5 misfire.
I doubt a leaking vacuum hose would cause that, am I right?
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There are step by step instructions printed on a plastic card on your drivers side sun visor.
yup i read em, and i still made the grinding noise, which because of all the replies, i know now my mistake was taking to long in shifting H to 4LO
thanks for all the replies
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Hi all!
this is probably an embarrassing question to ask, but how do I use the low gear selector thats next to the automatic tranny shifter? all the time ive had with my qx, ive never touched it.
there is H then N then 4LO
my question is, what is the appropriate way to shift it?
when i put the tranny in neutral, and i try to shift it, it makes a grinding noise, but it works fine when i turn the engine off and put the tranny shifter into N then try to shift the low gears. Should the engine be off, and the tranny be in a certain position before shifting the low gear selector?
id appreciate any help
Also by putting it into 4LO as opposed to H, what does it do when the all wheel drive mode is set to lock? or when it is set to 2 wheel drive?
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When you put it in drive, the engine shifts to one side, and when you put it in reverse, it shifts to the other. madhornet's suggestion makes a lot of sense. You could be closing a crack in a pipe by putting it in drive.
I would start it up, and jump out and start bending/flexing the inlet pipes and hoses that connect to it to see if any of them cause the engine to misbehave.
thanks
ill check for any leaks, hmm im guessing soapy water wont work for vacuum leaks
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hmm, and that can cause the super rough idling? but the problem goes away after i put it into D gear, and after that the symptom wont show when i put it back into R or P. The problem only shows up sometimes after i start the engine and reverse
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Sometimes when I start my qx4, it idles really rough, feels like the engine is shaking like mad (could even feel it in the low gear shifter), RPM stable though. This happens on P and R, then when i put it into drive, it's smooth again like nothing happened, even if i go back into P or R.
What could be the problem? Ive had a distributor problem not too long ago, but i replaced the distributor.
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hmm, so instead of power steering fluid we can use our AT fluid? i thought that was only for certain makes
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you can also try blowing some low pressure air though the lines to make sure they are clear, wouldn't go to crazy with the pressure though
thats right, i blew 100 psi through the hose opening of the rear outlet, and the interior hose blew off from its connection inside the ceiling which i had to remove trim after trim piece to reach then reconnect
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Its easy, just remove the front right wheel, then inside the wheel well, take off the clips and screws holding the front wheel well wall, afterwards, you should have direct access to the pump and res.
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^^ well the pumps are directly attached to the resoviour so its not that, the common mystery hose goes into the engine bay but i cant follow it through through the fenders
and thanks for the link towncivilian, but their prices are the same as everybody elses, 33 bucks each, isnt there a place that does the 5% off coupon code?
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The pumps for our r50's are Model # 28920-0W000
and there are 2 needed
Each pump has an middle outlet and a lower outlet. The Left pump's (looking from inside the car out) middle outlet connects to the clear hose which goes to the rear windshield washer nozzle. The right pump's middle outlet goes to a black hose which connects to both the left and right nozzles on top of the hood.
Now the confusing part, both the pumps lower outlets connect to the same black hose via coupler, but i have no idea where that hose leads.
Also, any of you know a coupon code for everythingnissan.com or infinitipartsusa.com so i can buy these 2 pumps without costing me 66 bucks no including shipping?
I bought 2 trico pumps but i would have to splice into the original wiring harnes which i dont like to do, also the new pumps down have the bottom outlet that connects to the mystery hose that links the two pump's lower outlets.
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whats the part number?
here ya go, its super cheap, $198 now
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HLZ55G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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FIXED!!!
The problem turned out to be the distributor, I think the bearing was burnt out, as when I turned the old distributor upside down, brown dust came down
link to distributor thread here (where I will also link the How to guide):
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lol the crank pully bolt is way bigger than 22
anyways, i fixed it!!!
i installed the new distributor today, and i used a universal joint (i bought a 3 pack from sears) to reach the bolt.
This was a cool project, i learned alot, and now i got a new tool in my arsenal, the universal joints
The old distributor , when i turned it upside down, brown dust (looks like brake dust) fell out
Now this was almost impossible without some luck and research so I will create a how to guide for installing the distributor for any body in the future who needs it
Also, I am scared of driving my car now, every vibration, every little abnormal noise, and it freaks me out because i think somethings wrong
this happens to anybody else? -
isnt there a tool to reach awkward bolts?
i think it's called a universal joint wrench or something,
alot of people used it when trying to reach the awkward #6 sparkplug in our 3.3 engines
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The crank pulley is a 23 mm IIRC. You probably need to remove some goodies to get to the bolt. I'm on my phone or I'd look back at my pics when I diagnosed my mucked up engine.
aw really? just to turn to TDC? why can't the engineers cut us some slack
lol that distributor bolt is taunting me i swear, its so accessible, yet, not at all
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okay, so i found out how i get TDC, but the crankshaft bolt is kinda big, is that a 23-24mm bolt?
next step is the hardest i think, because i have no idea how to remove the distributor hold down bolt which is annoying!
Only 1 bolt holds down the distributor, and it's in plain sight too, which makes it burn even more when the angle it's at makes it impossible to remove
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oh and the dust sheild?
Where in the FSM would it teach you how to set TDC?
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thanks! the crows foot is a good idea, i jsut bought a set for my brake lines.
also, what would happen if the distributor was one notch off? because the spherical mesh gear makes it kinda hard to line up perfectly, i assume the compression TDC would have the rotor pointing at the number one cylnder spot on the cap
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My brand new remanufactered Hitachi OEM distributor arrived today!
For a manufactured drive, it looks brand new, with the OEM cap and rotor included, all for $211 which is a tremendous deal (every other online place charges 260 +60 core charge so 320 in total not even incliding shipping), and the price dropped to $201 the day after i bought it off amazon.
Now, installing is a whole other matter.
1. I do not know to get the engine to TDC, because I do not know which bolt is the crankshaft pulley bolt. Anybody have experience with this? TDC was so much easier when the engine was on the engine stand in auto tech class.;
2. The distributor is held down by one single bolt, which looks impossible to get to considering the angles and the hoses blocking the way.
Any help would be appreciated
Bipolar r50?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Just a thought, since the misfire code is for specifically cylinder #5, its not really a vacuum leak problem right? as a vacuum leak would affect all cylinders?