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sumguy67

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Posts posted by sumguy67

    Stubby Pathy

    in General Forums

    Posted

    This project is still moving forward. Had the option of staying home this summer and working on the truck or spending the summer in the Okanogan valley. Guess which I chose?? HA!

    I'm glad I did... a LOT of off road vehicles out there. Many are daily drivers for these guys. I've never seen so many lifted trucks.

    Frame Repair = Hard 3" Lift

    in The Garage

    Posted

    thanks for the tip, im gonna try to keep it as light as possible... i found a crak in my frame yesterday. damn rust. :thumbsdown: gotta fix that too

    Ya, I had a pretty bad rear frame too. So I cut everything past the rear suspension out and I'm building my own rear frame.

    It will allow me to raise the rear mounts (no spacers) and raise the fuel tank along with the body 3".

     

    Just for safety I'm reinforcing the entire frame around the rear suspension and body mounts.

    the front portion of the frame doesn't look too bad.

    Frame Repair = Hard 3" Lift

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I wouldn't worry too much about making them robust with gussets and extra weld.

    You may warp your frame with all of the extra weld too.

     

    The original body mounts are pretty light.

    And if something is going to give under stress you want it to be the mounts and not the frame.

     

    Just some thoughts from my frame design days.......

    Rear Suspension lift with chop.

    in The Garage

    Posted · Edited by sumguy67

    Thanks!!!

    That makes measuring the rear easy. Anything past a horozontal sway bar is lift (or sag).

     

    So I went from a very low rear to a 2" lift over stock.

     

    I wonder what new stock springs would get me.... ?

    Rear Suspension lift with chop.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    So.... I'm chopping the rear of my Pathy. After removal of the extra stuff the rear raised quite a bit.

    In comparing to our other truck it looks like it is 2 1/2" higher.

    That is a lot considering it was sagging to begin with.

    I'm guessing it went up 3 1/2 - 4".

     

    It appears that I may not have to do anything with the springs to get the 2-3" suspension lift I wanted in the rear.

    New shocks (needed anyway) and go.

     

    Just curious what the stock height is?

    I measured upper to lower bump stop plate to compare (not bumper.... there isn't any).

    I did search on here but didn't see it.

    (please excuse my ignorance if it's obvious)

    New Power Window Electrical Question - Fixed !

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I FIGURED IT OUT !! WOO HOO !!! LOL

     

    the switch on the rear door has 5 wires, white, white/pink, black, blue and blue/something not sure of the colors at the moment, anyway the white comes from the drivers door switch and controls up/down, the black comes from the drivers door and controls up/down, again not sure which way I checked these yesterday, the 2 blue go to the window motor, that left the white/pink, no power on the white/pink, thought maybe it was a ground tried grounding it still did not work.

     

    Today realized the rear door switch has to have power to make the electric motor work when using the rear window switch, pulled the drivers rear switch and the white/pink wire has power when the key is on, pass side did not, removed the front door sill plate and found the white/pink wire and it had power, removed the pass seat, seat belt bolt, folded the carpet back and found the harness goes thru a plastic cover that makes like a "U" to avoid running near the seat belt bolt, unscrewed the plastic cover (2 screws), flipped it over and started looking for the white/pink wire, finally found it and found what looked like a burnt area filled with what looked like dirt or something, checked the wire, power on the front side none on the rear, cut out the bad part and connected the 2 halves with a butt connector, checked rear window and IT WORKED !!!, taped all the wires up and put everything back together.

     

    Feels good when you finally figure out a problem like this especially an electrical problem, couldn't get any help from anyone here but that is ok, that's what I'm here for, LOL thanks anyway!!!

     

    Glad you fixed it AND glad you posted this. I have a similar problem so I'll be looking at that harness now.

    THANKS!

    Auto Body?

    in General Forums

    Posted

    bad thing about rivets is over time they "wiggle" loose so welding is a must.

     

     

    think im lying ask any drag racer that has aluminum or sheet door panels that are riveted

     

     

     

    All depends on the application, material and proper installation.

    Aircraft use rivets.....

    Auto Body?

    in General Forums

    Posted

    i just finished patching the floor and rocker panels in my D21 using the hood from my dead pathy. B) rivets to hold it together and then weld the seams

     

    I like the rivets and then weld... especially on long pieces like rockers.

     

    I used body caulking on the underside seems of my rocker repairs then asphalt undercoat spray.

    What did you use to seal yours up??

    Auto Body?

    in General Forums

    Posted

    Isn't the best filler steel?

    Then a thin coat of regular Bondo to blend out the surfaces.

    And, as mentioned, Icing if you want it perfect.

     

    Steel is not easy in some cases... I know I just rebuilt the corner under the rear door.

    It ain't pretty... but at least I have a good base of steel and I can hide it with Bondo.

     

    Welding in pieces isn't as hard as it may seem.

    If it's not structural then there is nothing wrong with rivets. (Bondo covered of course)

    Some body shops are now even using adhesive. And why not, car manufacturers do.

     

    And if you don't want to pay for a sheet of body steel (which is usually crap steel) just look around.

    I did a great body job using the steel cut from the side of a filing cabinet.

    Stubby Pathy

    in General Forums

    Posted

    Just in case anyone is looking for an update.... I'm working on the regular rust removal and body/frame work right now.

    Decided to work my way forward and save the front body mod (the fun part) until the other body work is done (the crappy part).

    Stubby Pathy

    in General Forums

    Posted

    Well.... rear modification fabrication is done.

    Added four pics today:

    http://picasaweb.google.ca/106952140359333266362/TruckMods

     

    Finished the rear welding, fabricated a couple of inner side panels and sealed & undercoated under the box area.

    Would have moved to the front but my grass was starting to look like a hay field so I had to cut it.

     

    Still thinking on the rear frame fabrication..... want to make it functional and practical.

     

    I'm very happy with the results of the fabrication, even though I was using a stick welder.

    If you ever use a stick for a project like this do yourself a favor and don't change rod brand half way though. UGH!!!

     

    I'm happy about the opportunity to get the rotted steel out too!!

     

    As well as undercoating I'm soaking the inner surfaces with a rust guard oil spray.

    Radiator Relocation

    in The Garage

    Posted

    The only way I've ever seen a rad mounted other then stock is in the bed,and these where mud trucks,since the mud would coat then/crack them and not allow cooling...Since you making a snub noise,I'm guessing its going to be a hard core trail truck,I would advise not putting on the roof or hood becasue what happens if you roll it,you going to have a smashed pathy,that wont be able to limp home...

     

    Ahhhh.... good point!!

     

    I will be running mud. I have a few good spots at my place.

    And the creek bed is a tempting place that could (or will) roll me over. HA!

    Stubby Pathy

    in General Forums

    Posted

    Why not put a fuel cell in the bed and have the roll cage go out over the bed,so you can mount a rad in the bed...just thoughts....

     

    If I planned on this as being an off road only I would do just as you suggested.

    I personally like the rad and fan in back.... just looks cool.

    But I have a feeling when my wife sees this all done she will be wanting to drive it instead of our other pathy..... and that is ok since it will give me a chance to work on hers!!! HA!

    Radiator Relocation

    in The Garage

    Posted

    If you swapped to an E-fan and removed the AC condenser, you would probably have enough space to leave it in front of the engine. I have about 4"-5" of space between the pulleys and the e-fan on mine.

     

    Hmmmmm... you have me thinking!

    Looks like the biggest limit on chopping the front is the steering box so that may work.

    I'll have to go do some more measuring....

    Stubby Pathy

    in General Forums

    Posted

    :scratchhead: I thought you were shortening the rear?

    Ya, I was going to.... but decided I needed the utility of a short box.

    Actually, until I put the saw to metal, it could have gone either way.

    Chopping the rear 19" would have worked well. Everything measured up nice.

    Even support members all seemed to be in the right place.

    I would have gone with a custom fuel cell forward of the rear axle.

    Radiator Relocation

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I'm going to relocate the rad and I'm considering a shallow angled roof mount.

    I also thought of a hood mount.

     

    Just wondering if anyone has gone through this and what their experience was.

     

    I have a rad and shroud out of an F150 that I considered using for a little more cooling as well.

     

    Any thoughts or advice welcome........

    Stubby Pathy

    in General Forums

    Posted · Edited by sumguy67

    Is it a high iron stainless? How do you plan to attach it? Some grades will weld to mild steel, some won't.

     

    Attaching is an issue. Welding is a possibility, but I am using a stick welder and it's tough enough on body metal.

    I am considering screwing it as well as using a body glue of some kind.

    Not sure how good it will look but it sure will certainly deflect the crap I tend to bounce off of.

    Stubby Pathy

    in General Forums

    Posted

    I think I will be replacing the rockers with something more substantial as well.

    I have some heavy 2 1/2" stainless tubing I've scrounged for roll bars and exhaust, I think I will use some of that.....

    Speedo Not Working

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Not that I know of. The electronic speedo/tack for the 94-95 are problematic. First, pull the cluster, check the connections and tighten the brass screws, they are ground points that can loosen. I have swapped out parts from 2 clusters to make one with all working parts (so far so good) and when I did that, the dead tach that I swapped out came back to life in my parts truck. Go figure... :shrug:

     

    B

     

    Sounds like a 'smack it" solution is in order. :deadhorse:

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