Jump to content

MTXaudioSYSTM

Members
  • Posts

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by MTXaudioSYSTM

  1. First thing I would check are the grounds. It looks like there are 6 or 7 of them for each gauge function.

     

    Q#1 - do all of the warning lights come on when you turn on the key?

    Q#2 - do the gauges work?

     

    Electrical schematic shows that positive is a single lead that is "hot in start and run" with a 10 A fuse. (Wire is wht/blk)

    If your fuse is ok then it could be in your key switch.

     

    Coming from the ECCS there is a wht/blk on a 10A fuse that has in line with it a "lock-up cancel solenoid" for a/t.

    It could be this solenoid.

    Not sure if this is the same line that goes to the panel though (damn Chiltons manual).

    Can anyone verify?

     

    I also noticed that there is a "bulb check relay" that has a direct ground that you may want to check.

     

    What you may want to try is buying one of those cheap inline fuse holders and , using a 10A fuse, jump the original positive feed and fuse block to power the panel.

    If it works then you know it's your power feeding the fuse block.

    If it doesn't then you know it's on the other side, possibly a bad ground or short circuit.

    This is how I figured out my power window issue. And in the end I just left the cheap fuse line in to feed it.

    all the lights come on when u turn the key, all the lights stay on until i turn on the head or parking lights and the gauges work all the time

  2. It sounds like you have a pretty high current draw on that circuit, or the rheostat(dimmer dial) may be bad. What caused this in the first place?

    ehh hacked up job and wires touching when installing another stereo. result in popping fuses

  3. alright so i have no dash lights that come on and the fuse is fine, have tail lights, and a dome light. i was wondering where after the fuse would its next stop is. i pulled the dash out and the bulbs are fine.

     

    i noticed i put a tad of a bigger fuse and im thinking i burnt something up but no sure where to look past the fuse.

     

    thankss

  4. It should be the same one as the one for the dome light.

     

    fixed it before i saw this. you were right!

     

    now what im noticing is my dash lights are all alot dimmer then they used to be and even adjusting doesnt adjust them. any ideas what to check, now im stumped lol. replaced all the fuses and covered the arcing wires.

  5. alright so i snapped a bunch of fuses tonite right after i replaced them, ill check it out in the am but i noticed my clock in my dash isnt there now, which fuse does it run off of. like i said in the am ill get out my power probe and figure out what i did wrong installing the new stereo

     

    thankss

  6. I don't know why you would want to remove the intake manifold unless you have a lot of crud in the spark plug wells and clean them out any other way.

     

    NGK are the favored plugs, I went with the GP platinum for my 95 (stock #7092) and the gap is .032" or .81mm.

    http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1212017

     

    There should be a tool kit that has the plug wrenches but others have said that a good spark plug socket and a long extension works fine also.

     

    B

     

    i had alot of crud so what i did was got a shop vac as far down as i could then stuck end of my air nozzle and used my compressor to blow the crap out.

×
×
  • Create New...