AeroSync
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Posts posted by AeroSync
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The white walls came with the truck, I just took my off road tires off and put these back on since I sold the other ones.
Under $500 with warranty? Where?
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Yea, if only I have more time and money, but I need to move on. Sucks, as it was a good truck.
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No no backfiring.
I have no time, so I am selling it for parts.
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Yea, thing is, when I bought the truck it didn't a timing cover. Too late to discover that though.
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Well that's gay... time for a V8!
Very gay, and I don't have money at the moment for an engine swap, as this was completely unexpected.
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I realized what happened. The belt tensioner broke off....
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Lol, good excuses.
I don't know, I have to see what I am going to do.
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I was driving back home from a party at my aunt's house. I was going 60MPH on the highway on cruiser control, when all of a sudden I hear a loud noise from under the front of the truck, like if something metal hit another metal thing, and then it bounced off the road or something like that. The Nissan instantly dropped RPMS to 0, the check engine light went on, and it turned off. I coasted to the side of the road. On the engine, when you crank it you see the crankshaft moving, but not the timing belt. Oh snap, good bye engine.
:headwall: -
Well, there is no more Pathfinder for me. Mine died tonight, 3.30 AM.
Story in the WD21 section.
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well not having a timing cover will def lead to belt slipping issues...
Yea, where can I get that bottom cover ASAP?
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This is good to know since my front seat belts barely retract. So I will go to a dealer ASAP to get this fixed, free correct?
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yes it will stop for you.
but I belive a member here had a belt slip when it was bouncing off the limiter...
I think he was in a mudhole of sorts so water may have slicked the belt or maybe being under load did it
many others (myself included)have not had anything happen in many similar situationsHaha that member was me. I am pretty sure it has a limiter because I bounced off it like 3 times, causing my timing to go way off, almost self destructing the engine. Note that I don't have the bottom cover, only the top. Mudholes = bad.
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Thanks man, that is very helpful!
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I see what you mean. So the best thing would be the 3.3 then. Now, can I rebuild my 3.0 to a 3.3? If so, what would I need?
Thank you.
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simon I think the 3.0 and 3.3 heads are the same size chamber, the pistson stays below the deck so there is no need to make the 3.3 chamber larger.
I do know that the 3.3 castings are are a little bit cleaner which provides greater efficency(for MPG's) and the 10mm exhaust studs are also a plus.
the 3.0 cam is larger than the 3.3 cam and will provide more power while remaining more well mannered than any aftermarket cam on the market.
if you are looking to rebuild and replace the 3.3 is just as easy to rebuild as a 3.0 and will still last a good 300k+ miles when cared for.
The rebuilding a 3.3 is a good idea, but I have another question.
What about a 4.3 Vortec? Would that work out? I mean, if I am going to fix the engine, might as well get something with more power? Or better the VG33ER from the S/C Xterra?
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I believe that is correct, but I think you run into sensor/smog hell...
MY1PATH has good info on the 3.0 3.3 combo that he has shared (posted) along with others. They'll probably chime in but take a few minutes and search around a bit anyway, I know it has been posted several times.
FYI, my 'new' 95 auto with 101k on it has a strange noise I don't like so I'm saving a complete long block (intake, sensors, etc) out of the previous 95 manual, just because.
B
I just remembered!! Do this and be the coolest kid on your block...
Looks like he's in Florida also, a match made in heaven!!
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24692
That link is tempting! I will see though, does it have the same mounting points, so it is like a bolt in, or is extensive modification required for the VG33ER?
It's actually a 3.3 block with 3.0 heads and CAMS. That creates a higher compression motor. You'd have to run high octane gas to avoid pinging.
My opinion:
Get a good running motor, put it on a stand, and change the timing belt on it, along with the water pump, thermostat and tensioner. Also, while on the stand, swap out the manifolds for headers, replacing the studs, then drop the "new" motor in when/if the old one dies. You can grab a motor cheap nowadays (guys get rid of running trucks for part outs for ~300-400) and even if you had to pay someone to swap the motor for you, you'd only be into about 1000-1500 or so.
Yea, today I am going to junkyards to estimate what I will have to save up, to hopefully do this before my engine dies.
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Big fat maybe on the last one. Can't tell until you know what damage you did to this one.
As for fixing this one, well, yeah, most of us support that but not if it is going to be a money pit (unusual).
Like you said, it runs good other than some noise so A) drive it until it dies and find another motor then (not very difficult, they last a long time) or B ) start finding/building one now to swap in. I understand the 3.0 block with 3.3 heads and 3.0 cam makes for a strong motor. I don't do this work so get details from others, but I know it really isn't hard to do, per se.
B
Yea, the plan would be to rebuild a motor on the side until the current one dies. Now, I read that the VG33e from the Xterra is exactly the same concerning the block. Only the top is different? The mounting is the same, etc.
But, know that you mention the 3.0/3.3 combination, I am intrigued. I never knew about that one. More opinions would be great, thank you.
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Makes sense. I will post it on Craigslist and see, but I would actually like to fix it up and make it nice. It is like a project truck, especially for the price.
It is a 3.0 V6 yes, and I agree on the 3.0 rebuild being easier than an engine swap.
Any opinions from NPORA?
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So let's start form the beginning. I have a 1994 Pathfinder SE with 149,600 miles. I took it off roading one day, and got caught in all the fun. I was in a mud hole, and while reversing and going forward, I put the automatic transmission in 1st, instead of Drive. Now, while trying to surpass the hole, I over revved the Nissan causing it to bounce of the rev limiter twice, since it didn't shift, being in 1st. After this, I noticed the Nissan was being sluggish and turning off every time. I got home though, to find out that the timing was way off since it jumped.
The timing belt and water pump were replaced, and in that process, I realized that the crankshaft sprocket was loose since the pin holding it was chewed up. Went to the junkyard, and got a good pin, and put everything back together, and when the truck is revved, I heard a faint knocking. I am told that the valves bent slightly since the truck went so off time when it was over revved into 6000 RPM.
Now, what do I do? It runs smoothly like it is, but I hear that faint knocking. Here are my considerations:
-Buying a motor and rebuilding it completely.
-Swapping in a more powerful motor, like a 4.3 Vortec V6?
-Run it as is and hope for the best?
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THE washer looking thing that goes over the crank gear after you put your belt on
lol... yeah. big washer.. black.. then read dr.bill's thread again on tightening it.
Is this the washer that goes over the crank gear?
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got the retainer on?
Excuse my question, but is the retainer the black metal cover that goes on it?
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Currently in the process of replacing the timing belt, with the new one in I noticed that if I rotate it a few times, it starts to slide out towards me. I don't know if I need to tighten it more (it could be, but I wanted some opinions).
Thank you.
1994 SE
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Thank you, I will try that GrimGreg.
Rip 94' Pathfinder
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Thanks GrimGreg.