why3zx
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Posts posted by why3zx
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Is there anyway i can utilize the trail master lift and 3" lift coils to get a total of 7" of lift?
sure, just plan on building new control arms, panhard bar, shocks, driveshaft, and brake lines, oh, and add in a SFA swap for the front.
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so my guess is you have two things wrong. let me guess this truck has high miles on this engine....(it is a pathfinder) number one, and this has to do with your hot start problem and the fact that it is diesleing, number two, you have carbon buildup in the cylinders. so this is what happens in a carborated gas engine that will cause it to diesel, when the engine is cold the first thing to heat up is the carbon left in the cylinders, when you shut it off the last bit of fuel is ignited by the hot carbon and will draw fuel from the float bowl and continue to run the engine without an actuall ignition spark. no obvioulsy you dont have a carb, but there is pressure remaining in the fuel system and if you have a leaky injector or 5 perhaps, one pre-ignition situation will "spark" this whole process off and cause the thing to run in reverse
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im going to agree with B, sounds like torque hop to me, you have something worn out in the rear end, ive had this problem time and time again with offroad rigs with soft springs in the rear end, shudder and hop when you give it the go juice while in the soft stuff
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id like a Cummins 3.9 turbo diesel in my truck. Theres not much of a selection for smaller diesels in N America
The venerable Cummins 4bt would be sweet in a WD for sure, but the transmission and T-case that one would have to use to mate to one would be an awful tight squeeze, unless maybe you used a 4L60 and a NP231 from an s-10 or something, then who knows if it would handle it...
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a swap like this would take some serious research, especially since in the states there arnt any vehicles to look at or scrounge parts from. doing some reading it looks like the QD and ZD, and even some of the later TD engines were electronically controlled, sounds like a major pain to gather the parts. all engine swaps i have done to date i just buy a wrecked donor vehicle so that i have everything i need. Damn, sorry to to OP, i think i just pulled off the hijack of the century, i should probably start my own thread.......
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man, thats more $$ than a set of G-body springs brand new! plus dealing with the plate adapter!
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yeah, have to agree, the remote res is there to allow more oil therefore prolong overheating of the shock during long high speed desert or race type of driving. i know if i tried something like that in my truck shock temp would be the least of my worry....
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They aren't hard, just pull the circlip and pop em out with a drift.
hahahahaha, yeah, thats what i told my wife when i talked her into just coming out with me for a bit to help hold the door.... like King said, one was easy, the other was LOCKED into the center portion of the hinge by 16 years of rust, when it finally came out after pounding/drilling/grinding/pounding/swearing/pounding/more swearing it was about a third the diameter in the center of the pin. all this after two days of soaking with PB too.
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oh, and probably the only way to fix that dash would be to replace the entire upper pad, wouldnt be hard if you could find a good used one, or wanna throw down the cash for a new one.
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yeah..... pretty much.... you found a 94 with 76k miles... there are going to be a lot of folks around here green with envy! congrats and welcome to the fold.
as far as the tire carrier, it looks aftermarket to me, i have seen similar ones for sale here and there, looks sweet if i do say so.
and the plastic trim around the windows, are you referring to the "black plastic film over stainless" windshield moldings? or the side window trim/seals? if its the windshield i wouldnt worry about it, peel the plastic off and have it painted, if its the side windows just get the parts from the dealer and carefully replace.
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Just so, if anyone was wondering, if your bored and looking for an enjoyable, leisurely activity for a sunday afternoon, may i take this moment to suggest changing the door hinge pins and bushings on your pathfinder!!! especially pleasurable if both pins are rusted into the hinges
i would have done somewhat of a write up, but im pretty sure if your going to do that job, youd be better off finding some other way than the what i did... none the less, the door shuts now, all the way even, every time, no more dead batt due to a light on all night because the door didnt shut all the way
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Cmon, think about it. The TD42 has an extra 2 cylinders, where are you going to hide them?
I have a scout with a 6BT Cummins, its not easy, but you can find places to hide extra cylinders.....
I have owned both, and both have their advantages. All things considered, I miss the TD27T the most. It got far better mileage per unit of fuel. It had a bunch more low end torque, and the torque curve is far more linear.
As far as top speeds go, I have had my 1990 terrano with td27t up to 175kph. The diesel felt far more capable in offroad situations. My suggestion, is that if at all possible, try both and see which one you LIKE the best. Both have their merits.
You live in WA, where the Heck did you get a Dizzel pathy? assuming you lived overseas? or are there are few running around here that have been imported? I love diesel, hell even love the smell, wonder if any of those jap engine importer outfits could get me a 2.7
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ive got a set of chrome alloys i could make you one hell of a deal on if you wanted to pay to ship them
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how bout you just pull out one of those oil burners, crate it up, send it to me, ill replace my VG with it and get back to you with a detailed write up of my comparison......
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Oh snap, really?
I'd love you LONG time if you told me how to do a rebuild! This is the second time in under a year I've had this happen... I think it's the shops fault since the truck isn't lifted at all and the angle LOOKS fine to me!
holy hijack
there is a thread on here somewhere that has a pictorial on doing it, i am surprised the search Nazis havent pointed you from your errant ways yet -
yeah, maybe its a junkyard insurance deal? i already had a car when i was 14
and i drag my 4year old with me when i go, but my fav JY around here probably doesn't even carry insurance. -
if thats the case im sticking with what i wrote above, i think your running fat and dousing the plugs due to the fact that you either dont have enough air flow, or enough spark, or a sensor problem causing your mix to be to fat, either way its starting when you lean it out by flooring the pedal.
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now that we have a few more options, we need a sticky with a list, so far we have F100, JGC, G-body, and now Disco springs, god i love building stuff out of junkyards!!!!!
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yeah, had a couple on a Vehicross a few years ago, they are SWEET! and a whole lot cheaper now! check EBAY and you can get the same things for quite a bit less.
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its safe to drive, all your sway bar does is control body roll as you go around corners, that being said, the sooner you change it the better its gonna be, the more you bend that metal the more of a PITA its gonna be to get all of those bolts out...... also, i wouldnt run that truck much with the oil the way it is, not wise man, expecially with an older motor.
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are you flooring the gas or just giving it a bit? are you cranking it for a bit first before you floor it? pushing the pedal to the floor while cranking puts the computer into a "clear flood" mode, meaning it actually cuts the fuel down substantially, i think they guys above may be on to something about the ignition electrical being on the shady side, perhaps in the morning when the engine is cool and you naturally have a fatter fuel charge you dont have enough spark to pop it over, but when you lean it out your getting dry(er) plugs and getting her to pop. time for a tune up! Actually as i think about it, ill bet just a set of plugs would do you wonders
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you know, i was looking at a disco while i was at the JY on tuesday thinking the exact same thing, grab them and let us all know!
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ya im reading up on it now.
found the box of goodies my little bro gave me has the following
msd 6al
msd blaster ss coil
msd tach adapter.
i believe the following is my wiring
now i just need to figure out where to wire the "white" one
from the output from your current dizzy to the current coil, all the 6AL does is take the signal from your dizzy to the coil and modify it to fire 4-8 times per stroke as oppose to one. simple to hook up, and your gonna love how it runs, however, a word of warning, if you have the red box one, and not the black "offroad" version, mount it on SLIM rubber mounts (rubber washers work good) and mount it solid to the sheet metal, they dont like being beat around at all!!
Frame: To paint or not; To undercoat or not.
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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if you used anything even close to POR-15 chances are that frame will outlive you, i wouldnt worry about it, that stuff is like satan in a can.