robbie

Yeah.. there's so much room now.. and I can actually see what I have to work on. I think there's enough room for the camshaft. There's a post here on changing it so I'm relieved about that. I paid around $500 I think for the cams and lifters. And I'm changing EVERYTHING that's recommended for the T-belt job. Wish me luck.

The radiator and shroud is finally out!@ I feel like I just had an orgasm. Once I get stuck again I'm sure I'll be back.

Sweet! Thank you! That makes sense. It shouldn't be a problem then. As far as the job I bought Euro spec camshaft and was all gung-ho about doing that job with the T-belt change. But I'm now thinking maybe I'll be happy just getting this T-belt thing done. I think getting under the car without any room to move is making me feel like I'm a blind man just fumbling around cramped spaces. I hope once I find some space to work the tools freely I might get some renewed confidence to tackle the camshaft replacement. Thanks again! You saved me! Oh, and I have a '94 Pathfinder

Oh cool! I'm in Woodland Hills... SoCal.. LA County (San Fernando Valley).

Ok feel retarded... but I'm stuck again. How do you lift the radiator and fan shroud up? The little connectors from the radiator to the hoses prevents me from lifting it up without the fan shroud. And the fan prevents me from lifting the fan shroud. And there is no room to push the fan shroud toward the engine to clear all those little connectors from the radiator. Do I have to take apart the entire front of the car (AC condenser, the cross frame that holds the headlight and the fenders, and the bottom cross beam that holds up the AC and radiator)? It's my third day working on this and I'm stuck on step 2 with 50 more steps to go. Maybe I should just tow it to a shop and shell out $2,000 in labor that I was quoted.... I busted a second artery... I feel it.

Thanks for the encouragement. Yeah I read probably all the write-ups found on this site, but I guess after two days of trying to do step one (the radiator plug) I got discouraged. Well, I finally got the coolant out, but do you know if I need to take out the A/C Condenser? I thought the whole front would be open to work on the belts and change out the camshaft but I guess I have to work between the engine and the A/C Condenser? I'm starting to get a headache again..

I was going to give up on the t-belt/camshaft replacement job but I'll keep trying. Originally from "Post Deleted, Sorry.. I don't know how to delete the post"

Man, thank you so much! I about to bust an artery over this damn plug.

Hi, I started on the T-belt replacement job, however I haven't gotten very far. I can't get either bolts off to drain the coolant from the engine. (I spent 2 days trying everything from PB Blast to buying drain socket wrench to hammering the damn thing.) Can the job be done without draining the coolant from the engine? I imagine the coolant flowing out everywhere once I open up the engine. Please help...

I'm finally getting around to installing some euro cams that I got from NISMO. I've never did this job before, nor any job on the engine for that matter. Is there any tips that I should be aware of for the job before tearing down the engine? Thanks.

I just got both the factory CD manual and the water pump. In the manual it differentiates 2 types of water pump for 2WD and 4WD, the 2WD one being smaller of the two. Looks like I got the 4WD one (part# 2101012G26), but I have a 2WD VG30E. So I called the guys at InStockAuto.com and they say that it's the same for all 94 models. Also in the part number list I downloaded from here the part number shows BA010-12G26 and a few of you guys mention that the part number to order is 21010-12 g28. 3 different part numbers and 2 different looking water pumps that should be the same? Will it work? I hope it won't be an issue. Incidentally, once I figure out how to host an ftp site I'll put up the manual (94-00) for anyone interested in free stuff.

One more question, is the cam install job related to the T-belt job? I was thinking I had to do them at once because of the cam seals, but could I do this without even taking apart the section of the engine for a T-belt job? That would make these two projects a little less daunting to do them separately.

Hi, I just reviewed all the steps to do a T-belt job and realized that it will be a bit more intensive to install new cams while I have the truck apart. I'm thinking I have to remove the valve cover to put new cams in? I ordered 12 new lifters with the euro cams from NISMO. I found some literature on cam installation for Nissan GA16DE engines that seems to have a chain belt: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/C...OR%20GA16DE.PDF Not sure if I should follow this for the 94 pathy. Any advice or warnings from those of you who know how to do this job? This is my first time taking an engine apart, let alone doing a T-belt job. I'm hoping I'm not getting in over my head with this cam install attempt...

Thanks for all the responses guys. You guys make this site AWESOME. Makes me feel a lot more confident about tackling this job. I'm actually going to attempt installing eurocams from NISMO as well once I get all the parts... hoping next week. One last question. I ordered lower radiator hose. That wouldn't be the coolant bypass hose that was mentioned would it? Anyone know the part number to this? I'm trying to find it online with no luck. Thanks again.

Hi. I have read various posts on the T-Belt job and followed all the provided resources for getting most of the parts. I have 3 things that I need some clarification on. Oil Seal, Crankshaft Seal, and Main Seal? What are these and is it a must do for the T-Belt maintenance? I just ordered everything else through 5 different online vendors and I'm hoping to get them soon. Just a bit nervous cuz I've never taken an engine apart before. I just hope I don't jack anything up.

I posted a few weeks ago about a shop saying they had to bend the ceramic coated thorley y-pipe a few feet. Turns out it was about 5 inches off the cat but still way off. Checked part number and it matches. I guess AC sent wrong y-pipe. So they did some major modifying and even put a nice crimp in the y-pipe. I didn't wanna sit there and argue with the shop so I shelled out $700 for the job. The headers were hissing like crazy so I took it back and they tightened it. Still made noises like baseball card on a bicycle spoke. So this morning I tightened the nuts on the studs of the header and one broke clean off. F ck me! The studs were ordered from AC and it turns out the studs are not heat treated, which gives off a blackish color to the metal and apparently is a lot stronger than the brass colored counterpart that is holding the headers in my truck right now. Well that's the update if anyone is interested. I swore to myself this morning that I alone am going to work on my truck and no one else. With that said, I have a question about the nut and washers. They were oval inside the nut and I read on a thread here that those are one time use only nuts. Are these the same type of nuts that can be ordered with the 300zx turbo studs? Also can I reuse the washers that came with the AC stud nut combo deal? (The nuts and washers were blackish color, apparently treated for strength, and the studs were not.) I'm about to go order the 300zx turbo studs and was wondering if I should order the nuts from the dealer. Thanks.

Thanks for the info. Yeah they have the right part number on em. I hope your suggestion will work and I'll have the the shop do that tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback.

Incidentally they have to shift my entire exhaust towards the outer wall and relocate the cat further down the pipe to make this work. As you can see I'm still pissed. Fair warning to you guys, do not trust ACs to even do their job. Are they a bunch of morons or what?

I went to look at them and you are right. AC's the culprit. They sent me headers made for something other than a pathy. The headers installed makes the end of the y-pipe hit the underside and left wall of the truck. It's way too short and is about 6 inches off to the right of the cat hitting the side of the truck. The mechanic kid who works for the shop has some problem with English and I guess he meant several inches. The ERG hole isn't even the right size. Feel bad for bashing the shop when AC's running some sketchy operation down there in FL. The pathy's been sitting at that shop for 2 days and I don't have time to wait or can't even count on AC shipping out the right header. (I'm sure I'll have to wait at least a month if they even agree to send out a replacement). I'm gonna have to just have them cut and do some mickey mouse sh t to make it work. Really pissed that I saved up money for some expensive headers only to have to cut serious angles in it to even make it fit. Never again am I giving Automotive Customizers my business.

They didn't cut the header, but they cut the part already on the truck where the O2 sensor goes into. I don't know if that was necessary. One question, Y-pipe fab means fabricating a custom Y-pipe instead of using the Y-pipe that comes with the headers right? Just want to make sure.

No... it has the right part number stamped on it. I have even visually compared them before to the pictures posted on this forum. I got them from 4x4parts.com and I'm sure I got the right ones. I'm just really sketched about the shop now.

My 94 pathy (auto) is at a shop for the 2nd day and they tell me that the Thorley's they're trying to install doesn't fit. I told them about the Y-pipe fabrication and they tell me that they have to unscrew one side of the header and bend it a few feet because the end of the header is touching the torsion bar when tightened. (I don't know if his English is bad but a few feet?) They already sawed off the part where the O2 sensor is connected to the CAT. They also said that they have to reangle the CAT and I've not read any pathy owners saying this. I don't understand what the problem is when I've read so many posts of the Thorley's fitting fine with a simple Y-pipe fabrication. Initial cost promised was $350... yesterday it went up to $500 ... today I don't know how much they want to increase the charge for this. I went to the shop one of the pathy owners suggested from this forum. Man I just have the worst luck picking the worst shops to go to every freaking time. I hope someone can help me with this by shedding light on this installation. I don't want them to ruin the headers I paid good money for and charge me for it. Help would be appreciated.

That's a really weird coincidence. I mean yeah LA is huge but I'm also in Woodland Hills. That is great about the place in Reseda. The guy sounds like a character. Man as long as I don't have to deal with another slimy mechanic who lures you in with a good price then try to milk you dry while your car's in pieces that is fine by me. He actually sounds like an angel. That is awesome that you could actually help. Thanks! Hey were you the guy I tried to sell my Bilstein shocks to a few years back? I think I remember mentioning this site to you. If you used to park your truck on MaryLee hope the site helped you out. Now you're helping me out. That would be funny if you are that guy.

Just wanted to know if any one knows any decent garage or shops in Socal area. I haven't had much luck with the places I've been to so far. Basically ended up paying $600 to replace leaking axle seals from two shops cuz the first one couldn't fix it right and replaced one axle with a used one without changing any of the wheel and drum housing components. Paid $400 at the second shop to fix the seals and replaced the other axle. They worked on the bad brake components and told me that it's fixed. After taking it back a few times for them to tell me my brakes are fine (which it obviously wasn't) drove with it for a year and got into an accident that costed me $700 (to fix the other car, my truck is still banged up.) Took it to shop C to get the brakes looked at and they wanted to charge me $800 to change rotors, new pads/shoes and to fix one bad wheel cylinder. This is after shopping around. I think the phrase "you get what you pay for" doesn't quite apply to me and the pathy...

Okay... thinking that I'm gonna get massive stopping power I changed out my brakeline to steel braided ones. With it I got the self-bleeders. Upon install the truck lost stopping power by more than half. So I took it to get it bleeded professionally since I didn't have anyone around who can help me. They had a problem with bleeding it. So they put the original front bleeders back in. The brakes worked alright.. not much improvement from the rubber lines. possibly worse. Later when I got my rear brakes changed, my truck would not stop at all. I took it back three times and they said there was no problem and the brakes work fine. Out of frustration, lack of time and energy to argue anymore I just lived with no brakes for almost a year. So I took the truck to a shop recently to have the brakes looked at while I was getting a tune up. The guy said only one side of the front brakes were working and the rear brakes were adjusted all wrong. I told them about the bleeders compromising the braking and to put the old ones back in. (remaining two) So I get my truck back and there was a vast improvement in braking. I don't have to rely on gears to brake anymore. I later realize the guy didn't even put the bleeders in like I told him to. and says that the ones in there are fine and it wouldn't make a difference. They didn't even return one of them and is probably lost now. So I'm driving today and had to brake suddenly cuz of some asshats on the 101.. twice. Almost plowed into the cars in front of me... twice. I had to stomp on the brakes cuz the initial reaction wasn't nearly enough for the truck to stop. It just slowed down some, and when the pedal finally got near the bottom (after getting through the hydraulic delay) the brakes finally caught on and stopped the truck inches away from the car in front. I'm so frustrated. spending all this time and money into trying to improve my brakes have given me 2 years of grief, too many near rear end collisions, and having to get jerked around by 3 different garage mechanics who just can't make those damn brakes work. all logic tells me to just put the rubber lines back on, but there must be some credibility to braided lines. The guy even rerouted one of them ... I don't know. I don't even want to take it to another shop to have to argue with another mechanic again. Is it the bleeders? I'm just frustrated.. sorry for the long post.. any ideas what's wrong?