pathydaddy
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Posts posted by pathydaddy
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just curious will the UCAs for a 2wd work? as i can snag a set of 3in UCS for a 2wd hard body for 50 bucks brand new and there superlift ones... tel me quick so i dont loose out on them!!!!!
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YOU LIE!!
Ok, I'm over it...
It all matters how high you crank the torsion bars. 1.5-2" is probably just the manufacturer recommended amount. Have you never exceeded anything like that??
I did a 2" body lift and a 2" suspension lift and run 31" tires with the stock fender flares and I have plenty of clearance. The backspacing of the rims does matter and how you set your steering stops. You should be able to run 33" tires with a 2+3" lift and maybe trim or remove the fender flares. Anyway, you are not talking about a lot of difference...
Did that answer your concerns? Do both lifts and buy your 33" tires...
B
Precise you answered it perfectly... i runnin 31s with flairs with no torsion adjustment right now.. i would think even doin a 3in BL would be enough for 33s but then again maybe not (oh yea flares are off and there flawless and for sale lol)
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so i now have the money to do the 3in ucs and jgc coil lift and was gonna order some rough country UCS due to the fact there on 55 bucks a piece.. but everyhting i have read on here says it will give 3 in of lift in the front with the ucs but on RC website they advertise it to only be 1.5-2 in.. can someone enlighted me on here as i want to run 33s so i was plannin on doin a 3in BL too but its not worht it if im only gonna get 1.5-2 off the ucs... also other than shocks the ucs and jgc coils is all im gonna need on the suspension end right?
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haha sorry yall was tryin to post a vid but apparently i only got the screen shot... sorry for the hype lol
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The difference is the 2 rear bolts, it's somewhere here about the correct kit(which is the same as the one your looking at, with the rearmost bolts swapped out) and it's also tucked somewhere around here about what bolts you can get to buy to use the older wd21 kit(the older wd kit is cheaper IIRC). They work on autos, theres enough people on here with them. The concern is the shifter cable length, which has enough slack in it(I'm guessing your looking at a 3" kit). You will have to mess with the floorboard a little or your shifter though no matter what to make 4 low usefull.
so i can use the older model kit and just buy 2 bolts for the rear? did i understand that correctly? it would just be bolts that are (preferably grade 8) same diameter thread pattern just 3 inches or so longer right?
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so all the body lifts i can find say there for 86-90... nothin that lists my 95 so is ther one out there for my 95 and if so where or will the 86-90 setup work? also none specify if it will work with an auto trans.. Im sorry i know this has been covered but i seem to be reading yes and no's so im looking for one last final answer as i got the money and wanna do it befoer the wife says no!!!
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was that an aborted hill climb? Looks like you slid sideways a foot there, pretty slippery stuff.
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Yea LOL it was very steep and snowy icey slick Oregon clay time for 6in of lift next month had a lot of ground clearence issues
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go to the link.... its my pathy.. i had to upload it to you tube.....
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If you want to get an accurate reading on your fuel consumption, fill till full, then drive exactly 100 miles (or as close as you can) and then fill back up. If you repeat this process 3-5 times and then average out the numbers you'll get a much more accurate idea.
If you find that the consumption seems "OK" then without taking the sending unit apart and actually measuring resistance's from it, you could always put a jerry can of fuel in the back and see just how far you can go till it runs out of fuel.
If you get an extra 200 miles past empty, then you know there's either a sending unit problem, or a guage problem.
i was thinking about your idea this morning about the gas can i have only owned it for 2 months so i dont know the history really of the vehical i did a full tune up when i bought it and the o2 sensor is with in values and the maf is very clean... im jus thinkin something between the tank and cluster is off any more ideas?
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im guessing maybe a bad tourqe convertor
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ok so we went through did a new fuel filter put in a thermostat (old one froze open) and checked exhaust for being plugged... so heres a mini story with pics lets see what yall have to say numbers and figures here dont add up!
ok so i pull into the gas station to fill up tonight.. here is where my fuel gauge sat as i shut the rig off
as you can see its almost empty right? like real damn close
now after the fill up this is what the pump says.
so 13.9 gallons to fill it up thats after topping it off so much it was spitting gas out what makes me so confused is that my pathy is a 95 so it has a 21 gallon tank in it yet if my math is right 13.9 gallons should only be like 3/4s or so of a tank. or am i loosing its not in the pic but the odo shows 178 miles on a full fill up. i have stock 31 10-5 15 tires on it and the rig is bone stock and 110xxx miles on it and brand new trans can someone give some advise as to what is going on here fuel gauge off? (tach doesnt work) so cluster shot or the fuel sender float or what this is really upsetting me casue if i infact have a 21 gallon tank this means im gettin like10 mpg and thats not gonna cut it for me i drive 45 miles a day for work and i cant keep affording this any help would be great
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im averaging about 10 miles a gallon... barely getting 200 miles to a full tank (21 gallon tank too) theres no ecu codes bein thrown 180k on the odo plugs wires and all that look good... im just goin after the cheap fixes first like thermostat then fuel filter then guy cats make sure there not plugged... we dont have DEQ here!!!!!! any other pointers?
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Sounds like a stuffed thermostat to me, have you had this looked at?
With the thermostat jammed in the open position as yours seems to be, the water does not get up to temp.
as i thought and was told by my mechanic buddy. now with that said saying that is the issue beings the water and engine not up to temp would that indicate that the ecm is getting the wrong signal via temp sensor causing it to run rich? thus engine mileage going to s***???
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well im curious as too where all your needle on the temp guage usually sits at full temp? mine after a hour of driving or idleing for 30 min either way it never goes up very high (less than 1/8 inch) to me it doesnt seem right and the rad hoses and block and everything else that should get hot is only warm to the touch... any ideas?
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so had the values checked on the O2 sensor and checked out fine maf sensor is good no issues with the egr valve so my mechanic is wondering if on a pathfinder in 60 degree weather the temp gauge goes up like less than a quarter inch and engine isnt running very warm hes curious if thats telling the ecm to run rich thus loosing gas mileage and also the fact that at idle of 4k rpms very minimal pressure coming out the tail pipe hes thinking plugged cats? what yall think on these ideas oh yea the rig has 180k on it no oil burning has abundance of power too.... yet still about 10 mpg with freeway driving
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Do you have a gas smell inside and outside the car? If so it could be your Evap canister. Have you had your injectors checked? MAF? O2 sensor? Fuel filter? Those are all that come to mind at the moment.
no gas smell.. im tight on funds and having a shop check injectors and maf are kinda out of the picture.. i was planning on doing the fuel filter sunday any other ideas?
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21 gallons
damn 200 miles to a full tank... still cant figure out why im getting such poor mileage...any ideas
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how many gallons does the factory tank hold in my 95 pathy.. dunno what model it is but its power mirrors windows locks and sun roof if that helps at all... im trying to see if my theories about my milage are correct
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the auto shop i took it too said they scanned it and no codes came up but after reading this a few more sites aparently you cant scann it due to not being OBD2.. they tried to take me for a ride lolbut its not working casue im not that retarded lol im not new to cars and how things work just new to nissans.. so i yea lol ill try learing the fault codes thread and see what i can make of it any more info would be great!!!
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Was this sudden or getting worse over time?
What does your temp gauge show? If it stays low even after a while, the stat may be stuck open. This means the truck would take a long time to warm up and use way more gas.
Original O2 sensors? They could need replacing...
There are lots possibilities here. Can you give more info?
im not to sure about any of the rig... i have only had it for 3 weeks... and already had to put in a new auto tranny... the rig has an abundance of power i dont think the breaks are dragging cat could be plugged up a bit can someone give me a list of cheap to expensive to try and figure it out....
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but wouldnt a few of those throw a CEL?
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so i go to the gas station and fill up i even top it off to where gas spits back out then i jump in the pathy and reset the trip meter.its a 95 auto with the stock 31 10.50 15s and a 21 gal tank yet litterally all straight freeway at 65 and 70 miles down the road and ive already burned up a half tank per what my gas gauge says. so i pull in the the gas station and fill it back up and sure enough takes a good 10 plus gallons i have looked for leaks i have looked for un plugged sensors and i have even thrown the scanner on it just for the hell of it even tho the CEL isnt on so please SOMEONE give me some ideas to look at here!!!
are there known locations in the fuel lines to crack?
what could casue this?
am i overlooking a huge problem here?
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so is it a def requirement to use a new torqe converter when puttin my new trans back in (200bucks with no tc) when we dropped the pan in the broken trans there was no metal shavings and filter looked pretty good jus wanna verify before i waste time and more money please respond asap lol
One Last Lift Question
in The Garage
Posted
lol for a 2wd hardbody and B if i had the money to throw around id buy them.,..but i dont so i thought id ask lol!!!!