blamtro
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Posts posted by blamtro
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I pushed my '97 a little over 100 miles past the light...
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If you ran the truck 2 minutes with an empty pan, I think you could have done some serious damage. Think of it as running the engine with no oil in it for 2 minutes.
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The hose I used is 1/2"
Sorry for the lack of updates. I dont have much time between this and work. i will try and get this thread all updated this week,
What size are the transmission cooling lines?1/2 or 3/8 inch?
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thats why you have a filter, duh!
also introduces dirt into the engine
b/c no matter where its parked there will be dust and as the oil makes its trip out of the engine esp on a 4x4 thats used will pick up dirt and whatever else...I dont think I'd do it -
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As I bothered you all with many questions about my 2WD -> 4WD conversion project, I am getting close to seeing the fruits of my labor. I have the trans completely rebuilt, I am just waiting on one small seal from Trans Go that was damaged in shipping just to put it back together. Unfortunately, the seal goes on the direct 3rd clutch piston which is in the middle of the trans.
I will admit, in the beginning, I was intimidated by the myserious interworkings of the autobox as I have never opened one up besides a simple pan drop and filter change. However, in the end, I was amazed at how simple they really are. I hope this helps someone some day.
As we all know, this transmission has a problem with cooling. About 6 months ago, I installed my superbadass cooling/filter system. When the ATF flows out of the system, it runs though a full size, full flow filter. Then through the first cooler: 15,000 BTU rating, 5 3/4 x 11 x 1 1/2 thick. Then it flows to the Perma Cool remote thermostat that opens around 185*F to flow through the second: 20,500 BTU rating, 8 x 11 x 1 1/2 thick. And then back to the trans.
The remote thermostat normally flows 90% only through the first, smaller cooler and 10% flows through the 2nd cooler. Once the temp hits 185-190*F, it will flow almost 100% though both coolers. The 10% flow through the second cooler when below 185*F prevents cold shock when the thermostat opens. Also notice I installed the coolers with the fittings up as to prevent air pockets from forming. I used all 1/2" pipe fittings and lube hose.
The system has worked great. I had guage temporarily hooked up with the thermocouple installed in the filter body and temps stayed in check!
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/bla...ransCoolers.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/bla...TransFilter.jpg
Back to the Trans
First I started by disassembling the autobox, I took pictures along the way so I could reference them during reassembly.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/bla...er/Trans-01.jpg
Everything came apart pretty smoothly. There was no major damage to any parts of the trans. Some of the bushings were worn and some of the clutch plates were just below the wear limit. There are 5 clutch packs in this trans. I reused all of the clutch steel plates as they were good as new.
I installed a Trans Go shift kit in it as I do tow a 5000# boat. I did tons of research on which kit to go with. There are basically 4 kits available for the trans:
Trans Go Shift kit, ~ $50
Trans Go Performance Shift, ~ $219
Trans Go reprogramming kit ~ $220
Superior Shift Correction Kit, ~$45
The Trans Go shift kit and Superior kit, from what I found, accomplished the same thing: firms up shifts, provides more lube to needed areas, and provides higher temp sealing rings.
The Performance shift kit is a consumer level kit that comes with a video that is taylored towards those who are adding tons of power to the engine with a turbo or nitrous. It doesn't require removal of the trans from the vehicle, only the valve body.
The Reprograming kit is similar to the performance kit, however, it only available to shops or distributors. It is not meant to be available to the public and doesn't come with an instruction video. It will require removal of the transmission.
The reason I went with the TransGo shift kit, SK-RE4RO1A, is the performance and reprograming kit dramatically firm up the shifts. When I talked with TransGo tech support, they described it as "too firm" for towing and could damage input/output shafts on the trans, differentials, driveshafts, or axle shafts.
I found TransGo's tech support to be much more supportive and helpful. I actually bought both the TransGo shift kit and the Superior kit, checked them out while talking to tech supports and returned the Superior kit at a 15% loss to restocking.
Check my photos @ www.photobucket/blamtro because this damn thing wont let me post all my images at once.
...need sleep, will finish laterzzz...
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Let me know it you need some more help. I made myself some pretty extensive notes when I did my install. I probably spent 30+ hours doing it because I made sure everything was tucked away very neatly, every splice was soldered and heat shrink tubing applied. I completely tore the dash out minus the airbags to access all the wires at their source. All in all, it was worth it. No crawling outside 30 minutes before work to scrape ice/start car.
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The yellow wire is not supposed to hot all the time. However, you might get lucky and it could be the only thing wrong with the module. Since you do have the other wire that is a negative output on the 2 pin harness, I would try using that wire and invert it using a relay and check to see if you get the same result, or even just check it with your DMM and see under what circumstances you have continuity to ground.
My truck is a 1997 Klondike model. It has that starter disable antitheft device. Im not sure if the yellow wire on the 5 pin harness is so post to be hot or not, But in the installation book it said that its a POSTTIVE parking light output wire, their is also a parking light NEGATIVE wire that is on a 2 pin harness (look at that PDF doc.), but i didn’t install this because the book said only one of these wires need to be installed. Ive also been thinking that this might be a relay application, Im going to go and see if i have a 5 pin relay kickin around the shop, and look into it. Oh and ive floated around that website looking for help too, didnt spen to much time, maybe tonight, when it starts raining.Tks.
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When I installed a trailer harness on mine, I used the 7 pin RV receptacle. I know it is over kill for most people, but the reason I suggest it is that you can always buy simple adaptors to step down to 6 way, 5 round, 5 flat, or 4 flat trailer harnesses. You cant go the other direction without some rewiring. I have an electric trailer brake controller installed also that you cant put on the receptacles besides the 7 pin.
You will have to get a module to turn the pathy's separate stop and turn lights into a stop/turn combination. I purchased a UHaul unit. Search for Slicks How to post on this.
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What year pathy is this? They changed wire colors every year...bastids...
Without knowing what year this is, it appears you have it hooked up properly so far. From what I gathered of your install instructions, Yellow wire #5 on 5 pin harness should only supply 12V+ when the unit has remoted started your car. Right now I would guess the remote start module is malfunctioning if it immediately supplies power to wire 5 as soon as you supply power to the unit.
Let me know what year you have and I will try and help some more. I would recommend searching around http://www.the12volt.com/ They had several helpful posts when I was installing this on my car.
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I installed a Viper remote start/keyless entry system on my '97 last winter. I could offer some help, but I am a little confused as to where you are in this.
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Yep, that sounds about right. No way around it except to lighten your right foot a little or regear.
Could you elaborate on that? That doesn't make sense to me.
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According to the info I have heard, any cylinder head that is aluminum gets new bolts each time. You must use new bolts each time they are reattached because of the much greater expansion due to temerature that aluminum exhibits but steel or cast iron heads don't.
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Don't use that Fram trash...I recommend a WIX filter.
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get a thread file. It helps clean up the threads. You will need to know the pitch of the threads to get the correct one.
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before you start to tear into the transfer case, this could be as simple as a burnt out bulb or a broken wire. Start at the gauge cluster and see if you have voltage at the light socket and work your way back.
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Did you try purging the air out of the system? There is a bolt on top of the engine that will let air pockets out of the coolant system.
UPDATE:After 1.5 weeks of running without a t-stat and no overheating whatsoever I decided it was time to buy a new T-stat.
So, I purchased the new thermostat and thoroughly flushed my engine and rad and cleaned out the overflow tank. Everything was surgical clean.
I replaced the thermostat and drove it around and lo and behold the truck overheats EXACTLY like it did before I took it out the first time. THIS is with a brand new 170 thermostat. I bought the 170 just in case i tow some heavy loads on my trailer.
SO, the problem is not the thermostat but something else.
**When I drained the soapy water mixture after 1.5 weeks of driving without a t-stat it was kinda brownish, same colour as the gunk i took out of my overflow tank but there was no visible oil in the mixture**
**After driving around a bit the pipe leading to the thermostat was cool to the touch and so was the lower rad hose**
Water pump maybe?
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HA! #6 is easy as pie. Although, my previous vehicle was a Ford Van with a 460 V8 in it. Now EVERY plug on that was a #6 pathfinder plug. Every single plug required tons of socket extensions or universals or extra elbows in your arm.
As for brand, I use autolite double platinum and have no complains.
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I would walk away from it based on the possible transmission whining problem and the exhaust. Unless the dealer can fix those or offer some sort of warranty based up those 2 issues, you are asking for trouble. Those 2 problems could cost $2000-3000 to fix in my opinion.
that blinking CEL sounds like a cylinder misfire, might need new plugs and wires, not that expensive -
Kooler Flush and Transflush are good products like sold at bulkpart.com
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant...de=cooler-flush
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Tires
in The Garage
There are tons of threads on this exact topic all over the board
What would you drive
in General Forums
Posted
Nissan Titan with all the goodies!