wilson
-
Posts
147 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by wilson
-
-
alkorahil,
I recently pulled a blue 18 tooth out of the junk yard and found that it wont engage when I put it in my truck. I wouldn't say it was light blue, would an early blue 18 not work in a 94?
-
just kept smacking that that puppy. eventually came off.
-
Slide pin? For the brake? Are you having trouble with the caliper on a rear disk brake set-up?
yessir
-
I have a seized slide pin on the the passenger rear wheel. it is the top pin and is part my off. any suggestion other than pb blaster and beating the piss out off it? Ive also taken the rubber plug out of the inner side and have been shooting pb blaster n there as well.
-
nobody?
-
I just replaced my stock 20 tooth gear with an 18 tooth. as I suspected, the speedo now doesnt work. how can you change gear sizes without changing the spacing between axles the gears spin on? or am I missing the trick to get the gears to engage?
-
mounted a roof rack using well-nuts.so In reality I have (8) 1/2 in ch holes in the roof!!! hilarious.
now I'm not sure I like this solution. I think the rubber areas will wear through over time with any serious weight up there on a bumpy road. I really just want to reduce the size if the holes, so Ican just put some smaller bolts through it.
ahardbody where can I get that thing? it is exactly what I'm looking for!
-
I'm partial to bondo-glass...to "bridge the gap" so to speak, and some light bondo to smooth it over
you know of any good source that show how to do this?
-
its a clean hole.
-
So Ive done something stupid ...again. I'm now lookin for ideas to fill a 1/2" hole in my roof. I have no access to a welder. bondo?
-
The flywheel is actually in the bell housing between the transmission and the engine, but you mean the main crank pulley, right? I think the correct mark depends on the type of marks you have. On my truck, with 7 notches, the TDC mark (or 0 degrees BTDC) is the furthest to the passenger side of the car, so the last one you get to as you rotate the engine in the forward direction, which is clockwise when viewed from the front. If you don't have 7 notches, then I don't know.
yes! that is what I meant! haha. I too have 7 marks thanks for this info. its all coming together now.
-
Yeah, the tensioner is on the "right" passenger side. Water pump?
You can turn the engine over by hand. 27 mm socket, reach from underneath. When you line it up the arrow with the mark for TDC you will either be at #1 TDC or #4 TDC. Don't choose the wrong one, or you can blow up your muffler. I should upload some pics of that one. Usually the easiest way to tell which is which is to look at the distributor rotor. If you are at #1 TDC then the rotor will be pointing generally to the passenger side of the vehicle. This works if you are sure you put the distributor in in generally the same position you took it out (rotor wise). If not the next easiest thing I think is to remove the passenger valve cover. When at #1 TDC NOT all the lifters will be down. If they are all down then you are at #4.
awesome, the mark for TDC being 0, or the first mark on the flywheel?
-
Sounds like it could be the tensioner going out. It is on the left side. That is something I would make top priority.
Sorry, it is what the manual refers to as the left hand cam sprocket. meaning drivers side.
-
also I acquired a mechanics stethoscope and have pinpointed the noise to be coming from the timing belt cover nearest the left hand camshaft sprocket. this sounds bad, thoughts?
-
When you put the distributor in, did you line the dimple on the gear up with the little arrow on the housing while the engine was at No. 1 TDC and make sure the rotor was facing somewhat towards the No. 1 plug contact?
umm .. no. I just lined it up as close to possible to the way it came out.. what is the process to get the #1 cylinder to TDC? do I have to remove the plugs? can I turn it over with a socket and breaker bar?
my flywheel has 7 lines and with the distributor cranked all the way in one direction I can only get the second from the left to line up So I assume the distributor installed incorrectly.
-
someone should make a bumpers sticker that reads " everything I know,I learned on NPORA". you guys kick ass
-
well I scored a distributor from the local JY. I put it in while trying hard to mantain the original timing. the truck now runs a little rough and lacks a little power. I assume the timing is now incorrect. am I right in assuming this?
at this point i need to set the timing again. so I need a light. when I point it toward the crankshaft, I see the indicator(arrow) there. I loosen ahd turn the distributor till the timing is correct? what will I see when it is correct? I guess I'm asking how do I use a timing light. thanks in advance fellas
FYI replacing the ditributor did not fix the noise. damnit.
-
I have four wheel disc.
all the rear lines are braided steel. the fronts are stock. I thought about the balloning effect. I have felt the lines while someone was standing on the brakes. I saw/felt no balloning.
what about the "plunger" that comes out of the booster? is this adjustable in some way?possible to elongate it so as to engage the master cylinder earlier? what would it feel like if the booster was going bad?
-
The other day I was driving way too fast down a dirt road when I discovered that my brake pedal went right to the floor! I hadnt' replaced the rear brake line since I lifted it and was waiting for the new line in the mail. I pinched the line quite badly and assumed that was the culprit. the line arrived and I replaced it and the master cylinder as it was leaking from the firewall side. now I gravity the system as suggested by the FSM:
bench bled the new master cylinder
abs/load sensor( gravity bled)
-drivers rear
-Pass rear
-pass front
-drivers front
- re-gravity bled the ABS unit.this resulted in a firm pedal.
heres the question. there is now more "play" in the pedal. meaning the active part of the stroke is further down. while the pedal is firm when it finally reaches said portion, it is a bit worry some. what could be the cause of this ???
-
are the front and rear disc brake pads the same?
-
the dizy is esay to swap, JY dizy's are cheap reman dizy's are very expesive becasue almost all of them come with (expensive) angle sensors.
a correct size bearing, from a bearing shop, is $10 if you feel up to the task I can walk you thru it.
so there is a bear the whole thing spins on below the cap? there is no need to replace the distributor? I feel up to the task for sure. I'm going to mexico with it so the peace of mind is neccesary.
-
I really don't know if this is your problem though.
me neither
-
Presumably there are bearings in the distributor... first thing to do is likely take the cap off and look inside, if you didn't already, but that wouldn't tell you anything about distributor bearings...
yes, I did that. I saw nothing out of the ordinary. is it difficult to replace the distributor?
-
I've been chasing a noise that I thought was the A/C tension pulley. I've determined that it is coming from under the distributor cap. The noise sounds like a bad bearing sound, not high pitched but a kind of low pitch grinding that comes and goes. I jiggled the cables and that tends to initiate it but this is inconsistent. I took it off and saw nothing out of the ordinary. is it possible there is a bad bearing below the cap? The cap and rotor are relatively new, a year and a half. should I be worried? figures it starts a week before we leave for the Baja 1000.
Vehicle Speed Sensor
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
right on, that sounds like what I got going on.