exploited789
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Posts posted by exploited789
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tinted windows do help, but they also have a huge down fall since window tint is a film when you break the window it doesn't completely shatter its also quieter when it does break, instead the tint film holds it in place and you can just pull the window out completely. trust me ive done this a few times (at local junk yards of course
) the only anti theft device i have is the dummy alarm which was once the stock one but no longer works only the light blinks haha, and of course i have an 8 inch boot knife and ball bat in my truck well those aren't really theft deterrents. but yeah i suppose some L bracets and some screws might help alittle, i also cover my subs up with a blanket that matches the color of my carpet i think it helps alittle -
mmm jager
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southern CA
high desert (hesperia, victorville, apple valley, phelan)
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welcopme to npora, i have procomp es9000 they work great, ranchos are notorious for being stiff on the street, it comes down to personal preference
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i have a train horn from harbor freight under my hood the compressor and the duel horns fit fine my horns are located on the passenger side inner fender ill take pics when i get home from school if youd like to see, but im not sure its the same thing that you guys are talking about
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so thats a yes theres gonna be nothing but a glare?
its to bad they look good but arent functional, id still love to drill a hole in my a pillar and mount some cop lights =]
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mines a blueish grey
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Bump.....if anyone is willing to go im down, for pretty much anywhere in so cal
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let me know how they work out i want to do the same it looks really good i just dont know if the beam pattern would just cause glare off the hood or be quite functional
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try re indexing your torsion bars, also could use new shocks
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Problem solved =D. it was the timing belt it jumped about a tooth and a half so i took my time and did it wasnt as bad as i thought had a few beers made sure everything was correct before bolting her up
now she purrs and i looooove it
thanks again for all your help =]
and i have a few pics to show yoooooou
looks like when the belt jumped the woodruff key got ripped out of the crank and casued some nasty damage thank god i didnt take her to a shop i have no clue what they would have raped me to fix that but i just tig welded the hole then tig welded the woodruff key in place and filed it smooth so the washer would fit back on heres the pics
take a look at the back woodruff key hole and youll see the nice chunk
also these are the mods i did to the thorley headers to make them fit with the 3inch body lift
annnd heres my baby
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figured out why she wouldnt start i put her at TDC and the rotor was pointing at cylinder 4
shops want around $500 for a t belt job think im just gonna get the 20 part and do it myself
once again thank you for your time and replies
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yeah pulling it yourself and having them just do a bench job saves you a few hours of labor and at 80 bucks an hours (well atleast out here thats what it is) its worth it. It all just depends what you need, i needed synchros, first, third, fifth, and reverse, plus all new bearings. My job was only 200-300 in parts and 500-800 in labor ha
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i have an 88 had my 5 speed rebuilt for 800 with a one year unlimited mile warrenty
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hopefully thats just the problem. i checked the plugs theres some carbon build up but not much i sprayed some ether to try and kick start her to get going that wouldnt even work, so tomorrow im gonna try some more and hopefully get her running and in the shop. Ill let you guys nkow the problem and solution hopefully the belt dint jump to many teeth
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well i went to take her in today and now she doesn't even start itll turn over and everything just not enough to get going ugh
if its not one thing its another lol
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Well, im taking her in for a road test at a good local shop that i know wont b.s me. They said from what i told them it sounds like a mix of the egr and timing belt. Ill let you guys know what they say
thanks again for your time and help
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actually i dont think the timing belt has ever been done, hopefully that is the problem looks like i have a tear down to do and check this out
yes the vavle moves but its very stiff.
the timing is correct though i just did it about a week ago, ill recheck it with the gun and make sure, yeah sorry about the grammar i just didnt bother haha.
i also checked the fuel injectors they seem to be spraying fine
thank you for your replies
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hey everyone
i have a 1988 pathy v6 shes got 149,000 miles on her i just put a brand news transmission and clutch in along with wires rotor cap and plugs and adjusted the timing yet in order to shift gears i need to pretty much red line her from idle to 1st if i dont rev her to 4,000rpm's and let out the clutch slow its bogs down and dies also if i some how going downhill with the wind to my back get her in 4th the rpm's drop no matter what and the truck lunges forwards little on and off until i down shift the 3rd i just wanted to ask what you thought before i did a compression check and everything i checked the codes and nothing came up did a real time diagnostic with the ecu and tried to pull codes yet nothing came up again she does this one flat ground and with even the slightest incline theres no smoke no water or coolant in the oil she doesnt over heat the plugs are gapped correctly the erg valve when i have it idle and push the diaphragm the hanes manual says it should bog down or die yet it stays the same also i have trouble starting her cometime hot or cold she starts up and idles for a second then dies unless i give her gas even when i up the idle switch she does the same, and when idling if i give her to much gas she bogs out and dies the fuel filter is also new and in the right direction
please any help or ideas would be very much appreciated
thank you
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well i got it out and back in with the pilot this time everything is running good the idle problem was timing thank you all for your help i took some pics of her ill post them tonight/tomorrow
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Jager ill mix it with almost anything haha but its best straight from the jagerator ice cold, jack is number 2
for beer fat tire, blue moon, sam adams oktoberfest, boston lager and coors light once in a great while
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thank you for the advice. i went and picked up a new pilot bushing at autozone gonna tear it back apart tomorrow ill let you know how it goes.
its just a REAL pita because im using two jacks and one has two little wheels in the back and a roller in the front(stupidest design ever) and a 4x4 wood block because they dont go high enough, definitely not the safest route but its all i have to work with
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yes thats what happens, ive done everything to seat it further back but no matter what theres about an inch or two gap, how bad would it be if i ran it without one? pretty bad huh?
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well theres that i got my trans rebuilt for $800 it was demolished inside. now i go to install it and i put a new clutch on while im at it i dont seem to remember pulling out a pilot bearing when i took it apart but just to be safe i want to make sure, like i said with the pilot bearing in, theres a gap between the bellhousing and the backside of the block but when i take it out it fit flush? should i just leave it out or what?
also i believe this is a timing problem but once again just to make sure its rought to start her she'll idle real low and die or will idle fine then as soon as i give it gas itll sputter and die it does this around 2,500RPM i checked ecu no codes oxy sensor is fine new fuel filter its facing the right way, new plugs wires rotor and cap, checked and the fuel injectors are fine no unplugged vacuum lines
any help is greatly appreciated
$4+ a gallon - what's your personal solution
in General Forums
Posted · Edited by exploited789
40mpg
thats how
it just really sucks when it rains or i have to get grocery's or want to go to the bar
impractical but worth it at the pump