Misterfixit

OK You all, I have the answer. Picture, if you will, the top of the Pathy fuel pump housing. There are four white caps there. Each cap covered a soldered terminal. When one of the wire solder joints under the white cap is broker, it causes a random intermittent short circuit or interruption of power to the pump. This is exactly what the problem was with my Pathy. After doing ALL of the various things we have discussed above, I used some jumper wires and bridged over from a small stripped section of the feed wires (before the plastic cap) to the appropriate place on the pump. Worked 100%. I removed the plastic cap, using a heat gun to melt it off since it appeared to be heat welded into place as part of the manufacture process. Sure enough, a broken solder connection. Now I will reserve my wrath for whoever designed the non-removable plastic cap and solder connection for a later day. I went ahead and put in another complete unit. Problem solved. While I was at it, I installed new Monroe shocks all around (the old ones could be compressed easily by hand) and a water pump (which had been slightly leaking through the air holes in the housing.I wasn't able to find a simple re-packing kit so exchanged the core. My buddy Carlos is applying 20% tint to the windows and above the A2 line on the windshield. Now off to find a complete set of new weather stripping prior to a new paint job. I've selected Rustoleum 7786402 - Smoke Gray, followed by a Clear Coat. So far so good. Regards, Dave

Aha! Good detective work. I already have a new battery installed, but will disassemble the existing terminals and clean out all the plugs and connections. I pulled the sides off of the steering column but there is good continuity and connection there. Regards, Dave

Hah! I was thinking it was more like haunted by J. Edgar Hoover's ghost ("no Left Turns") Dave

I didn't think of that. Ill pull the steering column covers tomorrow morning and also pull the ignition switch. Thank you!!! Dave

Okey Dokey .. I'm back. I replaced the fuel pump ... did a complete visual inspection of the now clean fuel tank using a mirror and light. Then installed a complete new fuel pump; all engine compartment fuel lines are wrapped in aluminum foil and the fuel lines moved away and secured nearest the right fender. You'll all remember that I have already blown out the fuel lines with air and then flushed the whole system with naphtha under pressure. The fuel pump is working fine. I tested it in a bucket of kerosene prior to installing it. Pumped 5 gallons of kerosene from one jerry can to another for about 30 minutes. Finally, and Next, I hooked everything up again and she started up after a few cranks. I ran it with the hood down in place for about 15 minutes. Then took her for a spin around the neighborhood and got as far as the first left turn. Crapped out again with identical symptoms. OK, tomorrow I am going to Pep Boys and buying a new relay for the fuel pump. I am wondering what else it could possibly be? The CD workshop manual that I have suggested that after everything I have done, it may be the ECU. I just can't see that the ECU could be the problem, at least, can't figure out why it would cause the engine to lose fuel supply after a left or right turn. Does anyone have any experiences with the actual fuel tank connections which are soldered to the top of the metal plate whto which the fuel pump is secured? There are four wires (fuel pump DC supply and the fuel level sensor) ???? BTW, I got to have the Pathy running in a couple of weeks to go down to the Huntsville Ham Radio weekend convention. Regards, Dave

Thanks for the info on the headers and the gas lines. So far so good on the fuel lines. The aluminum wrap looks OK but I think I will apply some aluminum wrapped fiber hose covers overall to make things look ready for inspection by the Colonel. I keep you all posted on my Project. FYI, my last project was a 1978 5-speed Euro Black Market Porsche 928 basket case which included the mummy of a dead possum under the passenger seat. When finished it would pass anything on I-65 except a highway patrolman. Cheers!

Interesting situation. I re-routed the fuel lines using larger caliber 18" hoses and wrapped them in aluminum foil. Then I replaced the fuel filter again and wrapped it in foil. I drove the Pathy around yesterday in 100 degree weather with the A/C on full, making as many left and right turns as I could find. Then bit the bullet and drove to work and back. Not a problem! I do believe that you are correct .. premature fuel vaporization due to heat in the engine compartment. I am continuing to work under the hood -- rerouting the oil filter this week end. I'm looking at new headers and dual exhausts, so I am glad you mentioned the problem in relation to the new headers you installed. I measured the underhood temperature right after stopping and it was 165 degrees ... that was with outside temp of 99 degrees and at a full stop and with the hood just opened. Regards, Dave

That Rustoleum Red looks great ... you shoot it with clear coat after the final coat of red?

What's you all's opinion on repainting a black Pathy another color? Only vehicles I've painted different colors were when we covered up all our vehicles with the AG-44 "Forest Green" and put them into green cammie and then the three different types of desert for humping the sand box over in Eye-Rack.

Yikes!! You weren't kidding about the prices. But I am going to bite the bullet and renew the various seals and plastic parts after I do the repaiting and body work. Thanks for the pointer to this web site! Dave

Thanks for the reply. I checked at the time I pulled the fuel pump partially out of the tank. The four white plastic caps were firmly seated and none of the wires showed any cracking or fraying. But that would be a stealth problem. I've ordered a new fuel pump from RockAuto, so I'll see ow that plays out. I am going to drop the fuel tank when I pull the fuel pump. Regards, Dave

OK, I've followed up on a couple of ideas. First, I swapped around the relays after testing them with my VOM. They check out OK. I ran the vehicle at high idle with the hood open and A/C/ full on for about 30 minutes. No problems. I closed the hood and continued the run. Within a few minutes, the engine stumbled and died. It re-started but then when I let it begin to idle it died again, So now, I am thinking there might be heat problem perhaps with the fuel lines or the filter (premature vaporization of fuel due to heat). So, my next step is to run new rubber engine compartment fuel lines, which I was going to do anyway, and make sure they have heat shields in place. I will go ahead and replace the fuel pump relay. If these steps don't work then it is back to the fuel tank and drop it, then pull the fuel pump out completely. I was going to put a picture in here but can't seem to figure out how to do it ... Cheers, Dave

My 1993 Pathfinder needs painting and some body work. I want to replace the weather stripping and the window rubber after I paint (I'll strip out all the glass prior to body work, prime and paint). I've check with the local Nissan Stealer with negative results. Gone on line and found nothing except generic stuff from JC Whitney. I went to the local Pick a'Part but the Pathfinders there are all in worse shape than mine :-) Any recommendations? This is a major restoration job which I will s'plain in another post called "My Restoration Project" Regards to the Group, Dave Mann CWO4 US Army (Ret) Wrench.

I seem to remember reading that J Edgar Hoover wouldn't let his driver make any left turns .. anyway .. I didn't suspect that the control module was bad mainly because the problem was intermittent and only on turns. But maybe an intermittent connection in it??

I used a shop vac with a 1" clear rubber hose to vacuum he dregs up from the tank. Outside with a fire extinguisher etc etc for the nervous nellies out there reading. I did not completely extract the fuel pump because it would not clear the access hole in the back deck. I did not reach the sock ... I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet ... I'll do that tomorrow. I've had goo luck with Porsche fuel pumps, pulling them out, dunking them in a bucket of kerosene and then reversing the DC terminals to run the pump backwards. All kinds of junk comes out when you do that. Worked fine on a couple of Porsche 928's I had. Next step is to test pressure and change the relays around. I think.

My 1993 Pathfinder has started stalling when I make a right turn. Just like in the olden days on my 1950 Kaiser Traveller (6 cyl Continental Red seal and 3 on the tree) when I made a turn too fast and starved the carb out. I checked the shop manual and it recommended checking the fuel delivery system first. So I did that, beginning at the engine, I changed the fuel filter (it drained a grayish black sludge). I blew out the fuel lines with air and then went all the way back tot he tank. I drained the fuel tank, pulled the fuel pump up and vacuumed out the tank with my wet/dry vac; then poured in 1 gallon of denatured alcohol and 1 quart of industrial naptha and 1 gallon of gasoline which I had strained through a chamois. Put all back together and started the engine. ran it for awhile stationary, and juggling the car from one side to another by lifting and pulling down on the doors. Thought maybe that might show up some effects from movement. Ran fine. I put in another 5 gallons of gas, and took her on the road. Sure enough, I drove it about 1 mile and then made a right turn into gas station. Sure enough it stalled out. I waited about 15 minutes and it started up, I drove it back about 3/4 of a mile and it stalled out on a straight away at about 25 mph heading slightly down hill. This time it took a wait of about 30 minutes before she would start again. I've gone back to the shop manual and will now swap around the three utility relays (windshield wipers, eccs and fuel pump) to see if it is a bad relay. If not, then my next stop would be to do a complete diagnostic on the fuel pump./ I notice that the fuel pump flange will not clear the access port in the bed of the back cargo compartment, so assume I will have to drop the tank. Anyone have a recommendation or observation for me? I am hoping it isn't the eccu .. I priced those on ebay and one costs almost as much as I originally paid for the Pathy ($500). The old gal has been running very well for the past year since I put in a second engine with only 150K miles on it (first one blew valves 3 and 6 when the timing belt broke and I had to run it on 4 cylinders for a couple of months after pulling the plugs and injectors for 3 & 6. I've taken it on several longish road trips with no problems. So, I assume that this is a new issue. The only possible things which have changed just prior to the stalling was installation of four new tires and an oil change with filter. I've checked the usual culprit .. the MAF connector but it seems tight and does kill the einge when removed and allows a restart when replaced. Request assistance from the rest of the old Motor Pool NCO's :-) please! Many thanks Dave

Well it is really not that difficult. The worst part of it all is extracting the engine and transmission (or just engine -- I pulled out both at the same time). Really, if you have the proper tools and work slowly you can do it. Here are some recommendations if you EVER want to try it: 0. Do you know WHY you need to pull the engine? 1. Can you start with vehicle that you don't have to drive every day (!) 2. Do you have as a minimum a chain hoist with at least 6 feet of clearance above the engine compartment 3. Do you have a sturdy engine stand with at least 1,000 lbs capacity 4. Do you have a covered area in which to work 5. Start by pressure washing or preferably steam cleaning the entire engine and compartment BEFORE you start -- never mind the people who tell you that doing this will ruin the engine, etc. 6. Make a lot of digital pictures of the whole set up, detailed pictures of connections and so forth -- compare those pictures to the illustrations in the Chilton Repair Manual (you do have one, of course) 7. Use those "key tags" with a wire tie and card board writing area to write down what you are taking apart from where (example "O2 Sensor Wire to O2 Sensor - Picture #352" and photo the tag in place before and after 8. Did you remember to drain all fluids and save them? 9. Did you remember to remove the battery? 10. Did you remember to write down the "code" for the theft-proof radio? 11. Do you have the vehicle up on 2,000 lb jack stands -- all wheels off the ground at least 2 inches? 12. Do you have another vehicle to drive to local parts store for stuff you forgot or broke or lost inside the oil sump? 13. Is the engine stand set and locked into position? 14. Do you have a whole bunch of plastic food containers into which to put various sizes and types of fasteners, etc.? 15. Do you have a flat pan (think cat's sand box) with which to soak, scrub and clean parts? 16. Did you buy the replacement gaskets and appropriate gasket cement? Do you have your wife's permission to do this in the garage while parked next to her brand-new Saleen? Other important things to do is to get someone to help you when you actually pull the engine; if it starts to swing around when you tried to scratch your left nut with your right foot after the mosquito got you, you are screwed. I've pulled and replaced many an engine and while it is a daunting task at first, if you do it slowly and carefully you can do it. Remember: Safety First -- There is no way that you and a buddy can grab and hold an engine which is falling. Let it drop, just get out of the way. That is why we never let anyone get into the Engine Compartment of a tank when pulling the power pack -- 1,600 hp Continental turbo diesel 12 cylinder can drop against the armored belly all day long as long as the mechanic isn't under it which happened at Fort Irwin, CA in 1965 -- it wasn't pretty at all. Remember: Safety First. Regards, Dave

No idea other than perhaps metal fatigue ... it was a very clean break right across the insertion point and exposed an even fracture. Wish I had kept it but I tossed into the recycle bin. My thought is that it had been removed before - and slightly twisted or whacked too hard when reinserting. I would say that it is a potential problem since the 3.0 is an "Interference" engine and if the crank freewheels you would be lucky that only a valve stem or two bent. Could have been a connecting rod or three. That happened on a Porsche 928 I once owned. Nasty.

My 1993 Pathy SE was running pretty crappy. Pulled up to a stop and the engine seized. Got my buddy to tow me to my shop. Opened it up and the half-moon retaining key on the crank had broken clean at the shaft. Valves in Cyl 3 and 6 gave up the ghost -- both bent. Needed wheels the next day so pulled the injectors and plugs out of 3 and 6 and drove on 4 cylinders for a couple of weeks. Very sickly but still moved out OK. A tribute to the Nissan 3.0 engine series I am sure. Found an identical engine on eBay for $450 with only 100K on it, driven by a little old lady, etc etc. Donor Pathy, 1994 had rusted out at rear. I drove over to the guy's shop and picked the new engine up. Back to Nashville and yanked out the old. Pretty easy pull out, actually, nothing like the power pack on an M60 tank or a Gamma Goat back in my Army days ... The previous owner had thrown money at the engine for months and replaced alternator, starter, fuel pump, serpentine belt, MAF, spark plugs, wires, distributor, catalytic conver, O2 sensor, new brakes and tires. Etc etc. He never found out that there were two bad injectors, #2 and 5. He gave me the Pathy for $500 and also had all of the original paperwork (he was first owner). Noted that 5 different garages with "mechanics" had failed to diagnose the injectors ... and these were garages (oh and the dealer too) which have factory cert mechs. He put some $1,500 into it before I got it. I pulled all of the new stuff off of the old engine and put her back together again. After 198K miles, the clutch looked new, so he must have put one in but forgot about it or something. Replaced motor mounts, they were soggy. Pressure washed the whole thang, and she started up on the second crank. Old engine was donated to a local HS which still has "Auto Shop" (one of the few in this area since the school boards all want the kids to get some useless college degrees and then look for work). (My Jr High and HS years were spent either getting into trouble or getting traffic tickets. Took 4 years of auto shop in the old days (late 50's early 60's). The Pathy is running perfectly. Pure even idle at 875 rpm; analyzer says zero everything so she's burning clean. I just completed the second tank of gas and getting 21mpg around town. Going over to the Huntsville HamFest in a couple of weeks so will evaluate performance at 100mph -- errr I mean 70 mph on straight stretch of I65 Southbound. Now, here's what I got to do next: 1. headliner looks like a crack heads undershorts -- must replace; 2. Weather strips all around are worse shape than an Obama Economic Plan -- must replace 3. Paint job (Black) is gone -- no rust but nasty looking -- must repaint -- thinking a dark silver blue grey metallic maybe -- will strip in my shop and do the usual obsessive sanding and prime job from the metal. Oh and for the ecology minded, I will dispose of all paint stripped into the local county hazardous waste facility. 4. I'm thinking winch on the front, carrier rails on top for the canoe and some kind of tuned exhaust; maybe a cold air intake funnel filter. 5. Electric locks work sometimes -- I am thinking either a vacuum vessel leak or a bad switch -- must fix, need to lock doors in a hurry when in Bad Part of Town. 6. Spare Tire Cover missing -- must find new and have painted by local artist with my old Vietnam Unit Patch ... Hey Gang, this is my first post -- yep, I'm a virgin (here), ... your comments please -- also if you have had similar experiences let me know .... Regards, Dave ( CWO4, US Army Retired)