ascdesigns

Thanks - good advice! My difference in caster is .8 degrees right now. Left caster is 2.9 deg, Right is 2.1 deg. Some right outer tire wear is starting to become evident. Just trying to mitigate the wear. - Al

I'm starting a new thread since this topic is redirected back to the front suspension rather than the rear. Question: has anyone successfully elongated the 4 holes (1 big, 3 small) on the sheet metal strut towers to allow a slight increase in caster (and maybe camber too)? I realize you can't go too far with this, but maybe just a 'smidgen'? I'm going to try to shift the subframe this weekend, but if that doesn't go well, I wanted to see if this is an option. I'm thinking of grinding no more than 1/8" inch rearwards on the passenger side. This may provide the .5 degree bump in caster needed to even out my cross camber difference. Thanks! Al

So I got my alignment checked: ...........................Left.....................Right Camber................0.0.....................0.9 Caster..................2.9.....................2.1 (red) Toe......................0.03...................0.02 Would 0.8 deg difference in caster create enough of a pull? It's not so much the pull that's bothering me, but rather the tire wear on the outside passenger front tire that's causing concern. I'm going to try XPLORx4's suggestion of shifting the subframe next weekend. The alignment tech said/pointed out that the A-arm was not bent. Thanks, Al

I'll check the tabs when I get home later. I've also got an alignment check setup this evening as well. Fingers and eyes are crossed that my A-arm isn't bent. I'm getting tired of pulling apart my front suspension! Thanks, Al

XPLORx4 - Thanks for your feedback. I did read an earlier post where you mentioned shifting the front subframe. I was afraid that it may be coming down to the control arm or a bent subframe. From eyeballing my front caster, I can put one fist plus two fingers between my driver-side front wheel and the rear of the wheel well. On the passenger side, it's just one fist and barely one finger. How difficult was it to shift the subframe? You make it sound rather easy! - Al

Track bar, eh? Didn't think of that. Is that the diagonal bar in the rear? Is there any length adjuster on that? I remember my Jeep Cherokee a while back had one on the front (solid axle). If it was bent, would my rear axle seem shifted to the right or left? I guess that's "dog-tracking" if it's way off, right? Thanks, Al

All, When I bought my 98 XE, I found out the previous owner had all the 8 rear arm bushings replaced . I also just recently replaced my front struts/rear shocks, strut mount bearings, ball joints, repacked the front bearings and adjusted my toe settings using a large "toe-plate" to essentially 1/16" toe (as best as I could). The tie-rod ends are in good shape as are the swaybar links, i.e. tight/no clicking/no rattling. I have the stock lower strut bolts, so no camber can be adjusted (other than a small wiggle). Couldn't see any caster adjustment either and none that I've read about. So even after all the suspension components have been replaced, my Pathy still pulls to the right. I've learned that pull usually stemmed from a misaligned rear, i.e. thrust angle pointing right or left, thus the pull. Excessive toe caused instability and wear, not pull. So my question is: can the rear arms be adjusted? Not so much on thrust angle since it's a solid axle, but in a "yaw" setting? I couldn't find any posts about rear alignment adjustments. Thanks again for all your help. My Pathy is so close to driving the way I'd like it to! - Al

Woohoo!!! Successful balljoint replacements! The front end is absolutely quiet now! Simply retracting the CV axle from the hub was the way to go. And using a rented balljoint separator, a nice non-violent way to pop it out. One-person job, about 45 min per side. Thanks to everyone here who helped me out! - Al

Thanks fleurys! - Al

Hey - sorry to beat this one to death, but I'm one of those folks that like to "measure twice, cut once" Hopefully this will be my last question before I start "cutting" (not literally of course): Do you need to fully slide the CV out of the hub? or just slide it back far enough to clear the wide CV flange? In other words, is there enough room to pull the balljoint up/out if you pull the CV back, say about 3" or so? Thanks again for making my experience with my new (old) Pathy an enjoyable one! - Al

Thanks! - Al

Did a search on toe and alignment - couldn't find exactly what I was looking for so I'm hoping some of y'all can help me out. Background: I have a stock 1998 Pathfinder, just added some used (but very good condition BFG AT KO's). Just finished installing new struts, strut bearings, repacked bearings and check all other front suspension components for play/wear. (FWIW, the front end is MUCH quieter now! ) Assumption: I know caster is not adjustable, nor is camber (with the stock strut bolts). So really, all I need to adjust is toe. Question: What is the proper toe setting? Zero? 1/8" toe-in? 1/8" toe-out? I have a good set of "toe-plates" so if I'm not/can't adjusting anything else there's really no sense in bringing it into a shop. Thanks again for all your help! Al

Thanks everyone. I guess I'll have to pull the CV eh? Bummer - it looked like it would angle out of the hub, especially if I unbolted the 3 bolts first. - Al

I'm thinking about replacing the ball-joints on the front control arms. I did a search, but couldn't find a specific answer as to whether I'd need to pull back the CV axle. It 'appears' to have plenty of room to shove a pickle fork in there and disengage the balljoint from the hub. I understand this method will tear the balljoint boot, but if I'm replacing it I'm not worried about that. (and there's plenty of clearance between the balljoint and the outer CV boot.) The three bolts attaching the balljoint to the control arm are easily accessible so I'm not worried about them. Will someone please comment on the replacement procedure of these balljoints? Thanks! Al