Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

Datsunman

Members
  • Posts

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Datsunman

  1. I thought it might be useful to post up the part numbers for some of the common service parts I've found for my Terrano for the benefit of others who have a JDM diesel Terrano. If you can contribute part numbers for either OEM or aftermarket parts please do! Here's some of the ones I have so far. I'll add any more whenever I discover a new one through replacing parts Oil Filter Nissan #15208-20N10 Ryco #Z416 Ryco #Z502 MAX Nippon filter (Diakuan Filter co.) #MO-229 Axcela #4NC-109 Fuel Filter Nissan #16403-59E00 Ryco #Z332 Nissan #16403-59E00 Nissan #16403-59E00AU AC belt Nissan #02117-92023 PAS belt Nissan #11950-43G00 Nissan #A195A-43G0A-GA) Alternator belt 11720-02N04 Rear brake pads First Line #FBP3209 (same as UK spec R20 Terrano II & Ford Maverick)
  2. My terrano is barely run it yet at just under 42,000 miles I doubt it'll ever see much over 200k here in the UK ...there's nowhere THAT far away here
  3. It's an aftermarket Nismo GT-pro clutch type 2-way diff. It has adjustable breakaway (3 settings) but I'll have to find the paperwork that came with it to find out what the actual settings are. It used normal shafts, not the VLSD type ones. I need to rebuild my rear diff before I get involved in upgrading the front but I'm just trying to figure wether this Nismo diff is worth holding on to.
  4. I think the late 300ZX turbo might be the only model that came with a plate type LSD from the factory which might be why that's the sought after one. I'm not sure wether the 300ZX diff has the 12mm ring gear bolts or not. I'll do some more digging and get over to nissan4wheelers. -Ed
  5. I've read that the front diff in the WD21 is an R200. I know there's more than one type of R200 so my question is, does anyone know the specs of the WD21 diff? As far as I know, early R200's have 10mm ring gear bolts and 29 splines on the stub axles and late ones have 12mm ring gear bolts and 30 spline axles. Also, I think the snap rings on the stub axles are located in a slightly different place. Anyone had one apart? The reason for the enquiry is I have a nice Nismo two way adjustable LSD for an R200 and I'm wondering if it'll go in my Terrano The diff was originally in my Nissan 200SX (S13) which was a 1990 model same as my Terrano. -Ed
  6. Does that mean the rear pads are also the same? Mine has vented discs on the back.. that the same as a US spec VG one? Does anyone happen to have a Nissan part number for the rear pads to hand.. I need to replace mine real soon! Thanks, Ed
  7. When I'm driving a great deal of the time I can hear the viscous fan whirring away and every now and then I hear the sound die away but after a minute or so it'll be back...usually after slowing to a junction or stopping. It seems to me that the engine is driving the fan a great deal more than it should as the engine (TD27T) temperature is stable and it makes no difference what the ambient temperature outside is. If I turn the fan when the engine is stationary and cold, it turns on the coupling but there's quite a bit of resistance so I'm thinking there's something up with it. Most others I have ever had spin freely. It looks to me like the viscous coupling cannot be removed from the water pump... it this the case? Would a thermo electric fan be better anyway? I'm thinking of maybe pulling the fan off of the viscous coupling and sliding a thermo fan in there instead. Is this any better than the engine driven fan or should I just try to locate a functional viscous coupling? Cheers, Ed
  8. Geordie, do you know what type of turbo is fitted? I just wonder if there's an aftermarket dump pipe available for something else that would fit. There's so much heatshielding around the turbo it's hard to see what type it is. If not, the guy I use to get stainless exhausts done should be able to fabricate one up. I did wonder about removing the EGR from mine as I don't need it to be legal or roadworthy here. Is it beneficial to do so? Cheers, Ed
  9. Wow, I've never heard of that being done before. Very interesting, especially as LPG is now widely available here. -Ed
  10. Thanks for the info I've wondered why some diesels have a throttle body and some don't before. At part throttle at about 65mph mine seems to make a faint high pitched whistle which dissapears if I either increase throttle or back off a little. Ditching it would be an easy fix for that I haven't yet looked into a location for the IC but you top mount looks pretty good. I need to get a new exhaust soon anyway as mine is getting some perforations in it here and there. I'll be getting a custom made stainless steel one done for it ..what sort of pipe diameter should I go for ... would 2.5 inch be okay? I have a K&N filter I can use on it already. My engine has only done about 67,000km from new and seems to have been regularly serviced according to the paperwork so I'd guess the injectors would still be pretty good. Do you think it'd still be worth fitting new ones (or getting them rebuilt?) My neighbour runs an engineering place that specialises in overhauling diesel pumps and injectors so getting them done should be no worries.
  11. I nearly ran out of diesel this morning but luckily was near a small store in a village so I bought a litre of veg oil just to get me to the gas station. The TD27T seemed to run fine on it. Idle was a bit lower but I didn't notice any difference in power and it ran smoothly. I might have to give it a more major test at some point. I've no idea what kind of mileage you'd get. I'd wager it'd be marginally less than with diesel but probably not by much. It does stink a bit though. Even after putting another 30 litres of diesel in the tank the smell of cooking is still apparent -Ed
  12. I was thinking of adding one from an Isuzu Piazza (I think that's called an Impulse in the US) which is a core about 8 inches square and maybe 2.5 inches thick so not huge but I'm lead to believe, quite efficient. Time to start reading up on diesel tuning!
  13. I have a couple of friends here who run straight vegatable oil in their Nissan Patrols. Usually they run around a 50/50 mix with diesel but in summer one guy I know runs pure veg oil (in an RD28T I think) and it goes fine. Power is a tiny bit down but it costs half the price of diesel. It was kind of funny goung into a supermarket with him once and buying eight four litre bottles of veg oil. Certainly got us some weird looks at the checkout I've not tried it on my Terrano yet as not diesels can run on it without it damaging the injection pump. Not sure if mine can or not so I'm not chancing it for now. -Ed
  14. I notice that when first started and the engine is still cold the TD27T in my Terrano pulls noticeable stronger than when warmed up, especially evident when towing. I'm guessing this is down to the increased intake temperature once it's hot so how do I go about adding an intercooler? Do I need to adjust fuelling to allow for an IC or can I just install one and plumb it in? I've never dabdled with turbo diesels before so appologies if this seems like a dumb question! Cheers, Ed
  15. Just thought I'd add something on blow-by. PCV systems don't work as well on turbo engines as they do on n/a ones due to the intake being under positive pressure some of the time. In an n/a engine there is never positive pressure in the intake so the PCV valve can vent crankcase gasses fine but the system is less efficient in a turbo. This, combined with higher cylinder pressures results in more blow-by gasses accumulating in the crankcase whereupon the systen has to vent excess pressure back via the valve cover and intake piping, usually the way fresh air is drawn in. This is where oil enters the intake and accumulates in the piping. Although I've not done it on a diesel yet, you can add in a T-piece into the the breater piping and attach a couple of one way valves to allow excess pressure to vent to a catch can when the engine is under load rather than back into the intake. -Ed
  16. I'd let you have it but you wouldn't want all that trouble of shipping and paperwork now You could always buy yourself one from the place I did ...they ship cars all over the place Mine cost me £1770, including shipping and all the taxes. WD21's don't appear on their stock list often though. I bought an R33 Skyline sedan from them last year which cost me £1300 all in and it only had 50k on the clock. In amongst all the wrecks they have some real gems! -Ed
  17. Makes me glad I got a TD27T too Where I live is pretty rural so no traffic and hardly any hills which means about 800km on a full tank with speeds between 50 and 80mph depending on the road. That said my experience of VG30E's in other Nissans has been pretty favorable as far as fuel consumption is concerned. The big Nissan 300C sedans we used to get here would do 35mpg on a good day ...BTW, that's a UK gallon (4.55lt) not a US one (3.75lt). -Ed
  18. My Terrano arrived from Japan with this steering wheel made by Black Racing. It's got a pretty nice feel to it. If it didn't already have this one i'd have probably fitted a Nardi Classic in black. -Ed
  19. I just refilled my Terrano to the top again after doing 622km from the last fill up and it used 67.7lt of diesel so it's working out at 9.18km/lt or 10.88lt per 100km. Incidentally it was still reading about midway between 1/4 and empty on the guage so assuming the guage is accurate I guess I could possibly see 700km from a full tank to empty. -Ed
  20. The Nissan one I tried that didn't fit was identified by cross referencing from the old filter that was on it which was on it. I did wonder if it was a case of the aftermarket one being a replacement that could replace both the long and short tube type and it looks like that's the case. Don't go out of you way to go down the parts place just to check for me. I reckon I can use the info you have already given. I haven't had time to go down the Nissan dealer yet as I'm in the middle of an engine transplant that's got be finished by the weekend. -Ed
  21. All the older Subaru LSD's such as the XT turbo etc are R160's so they are probably no use. The Imprezza diff is also deffinately an R160 as I've had one apart. At a glance R160's and R180's are hard to tell apart as the dimensions are so similar. This may account for the different number of splines you found, Geordie. Here's an R160 compared to an R200... The R200 is huge in comparison to both of the smaller diffs and may not even fit in the front of a Pathy. The diff centers cannot be swapped into different casings (i.e. R200 center into R180 case) so you would have to use the R200 casing. All the diffs are different widths so you need to have axles of the appropriate length to fit. R200 are the longest of these. It might be possible to use the inner CV joints from an R200 equpped car on the Pathy shafts? I don't think R180 LSD's are very common at all. Generally, amongst Datsun racers, it either the R160 or the R200 that's used as it's really all you can get. Most of the OEM R200 LSD's were viscous diffs which present problems of their own and probably wouldn't be all the useful offroad but it might be a cheap way to get some kind of LSD in there. With a VLSD you need to use at least one of the axles that comes with it as it has a special double spline. If an R200 will physically fit then there are a number of LSD options. Cheapest of all is a factory VLSD from a late S13 or S14 or if you can find one a plate LSD from a late Z31. Kazz are probably one of the cheapest aftermarket LSD's. I bought a Nismo GT-pro last year for my drift car and although it's pretty trick I don't think it'd be worth spending the extra money on one for a Pathy when a Kazz will do the job just as well. This of course is assuming an R200 would physically fit! -Ed
  22. Thanks geordie, that's gives me some good info to go on. The only one from that list I have tried is the 15208-40L02 but it didn't fit. There's like a tube in the the center which is too long and won't allow me to screw the filter up tight to seal. There's a good chance on of the others there will fit though so I'll take the list down to Nissan and see what they can come up with. Thanks for the help! -Ed
  23. Maybe I should post this here as it's deisel specific! I took a guess that the oil filter on my WD21 Terrano might be the same as that on a UK spec R20 Terrano II as it has the same engine but it turned out it's not! I've tried to find a listing for a 1990 Terrano R3M 2.7TD but I've had no luck so far.The filter that was on it is a Japanese one made by Axcela with the number 4NC-109 but I can't find any referece to that make from which to cross reference. Can anyone give me a Nissan part number of even an aftermarket number that I might be able to cross reference from? I can post a picture of the old filter if it'll help. Thanks, Ed
  24. I guessed the oil filter on my WD21 Terrano might be the same as that on a UK spec R20 Terrano II as it has the same engine but it's not! I've tried to find a listing for a 1990 Terrano R3M 2.7TD but I've had no luck so far.The filter that was on it is a Japanese one made by Axcela with the number 4NC-109 but I can't find any referece to that make from which to cross reference. Can anyone give me a Nissan part number of even an afermarket number that I might be able to cross reference from? I can post a picture of the old filter if it'll help. Thanks, Ed
  25. I got in touch with AC (4x4parts.com) about a body lift kit for my 1990 Terrano diesel auto 4 door and they came back suggesting a lit for a 1986.5-1997 Hardbody 2 or 4WD ...is that right? Seems odd that a Hardbody kit would be more appropriate than a Pathy one. I've no problem fabricating any extra brackets that might not be present in a kit to accomodate the differences on my Terrano so I'm not expecting to get a full bolt on job but it'd be nice to get a kit as near as possible to start with. Looking around, a lot of kits say they don't suit a diesel or they won't fit an auto. I'm really not sure what to go for ...can anyone make any suggestions? Thanks, -Ed
×
×
  • Create New...