johnm

I would suspect the rating difference between auto (5000lb) and manual (3500lb) is due to the gearing of transmission. I could have used a writeup for a 7 pin last summer, but I already installed it. So, you're not the only one.

Thanks XPLOR, for the fast reply. I should be able to do the control arms if I leave the ball joints in place. I'll check out the bushings at 4x4parts.

Hey all. I have a little bit of a wiggle in my front suspension, not bad but noticeable. Anyway, the pathy has 128000 miles on it, and I believe the problem to be the driver's side, lower control arm, rear bushing. I don't seem to be able to find just bushings for it, so that means replacing the whole control arm. Here's my dilemma: The service manual says to replace the control arm you have to disconnect the front drive axle. To do that, you have to take the cap and parts off the end of the drive shaft on the outside of the hub. So here's my questions: 1) I'm not sure I can do this myself. Has anyone done this and where does it score on a 1-5 wrench skill scale? (I do have access to the base auto hobby shop so have a lift and special tools and things, so i wouldn't be doing it in the driveway. 2) If I'm replacing the control arm, should I do the ball joint at the same time? 3) Should I do both sides at the same time?

Personally, I chalk it up to drive train drag.

yes, the ac clutch is working.

Follow up/more information. The pathy is doing this following a throttlebody/intake cleaning treatment. I realized the other times it has done this is after replacement of parts (the first time the distributor, the 2nd the spark plugs). It's not generating any SES codes. After doing some reading of the service manuals and the interwebs, the only thing I can reasonably guess is that the ECU "learned" settings are causing the high idle. Since there doesn't seem to be an easy way to reset the ECU to the factory default (other than with a diagnostics comp), I guess I'll have to live with it until the computer relearns.

My 99 is doing something that's a little weird, and I'm wondering if you guys have had similar experience so maybe can help me out. With the AC on, the idle in Park is 900, then after I speed up and slow down, it gets a little higher every time, like there something sticking. With the AC off, it's around 700-800 and seems to drive and act normally. I know the idle is supposed to go up slightly with the AC on, but not that much right? It did this for a while when I first got it, and then stopped doing it for a couple months, then it did it for a week and then stopped and now doing it again. Anyway, I'm wondering if the cable actuator over on the right side of the engine bay is sticking or getting a bad signal or something? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Just to follow up. The correct name for the part is the Thermo-Element. Dealer only part, $150. I changed it out tonight after work. There is an o-ring around the element, I guess it tends to leak after a while, the parts guy said it's not uncommon.

Hey all, I tried searching and found some related stuff for pre-96 models but nothing specific enough to answer my question. I have had a coolant leak for a while and finally found it. It appears to be dripping from the gasket at the thermo-element on the throttle body. I'm wondering a couple things: 1) Can I replace that gasket without removing the throttle body from the manifold? 2) Do you think I should just replace the whole thing since the pathy is a 99 with 120K miles? Edit: OK, I can't figure out how to put images in posts, so here's a link http://server6.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=pic1.b41.JPG&album=0&public_view=1 Update: Spent half the afternoon search for parts. It looks like (at least online) the only way to fix this is to replace the whole throttle body. I'll see what the dealer parts department says on the phone tomorrow.

Your ex's dad is a dumbass. See, this is why I don't usually post this kind of stuff...just keep it to myself. Someone inevitably comes up with some other example of irrational behavior that pisses me off all over again.

yet another example while I was walking my dogs this morning. Old ass beat up farm truck that sounded like it was missing on 2 cylinders, towing a 9x20 trailer. The lanes on my road are 8.5' wide, so the trailer was either over the double yellow or off the side of the road.

Every state is different on the weight or size trailer that requires brakes. Laws are one thing. Common sense is what I'm talking about, but maybe it's not that common after all. That cinnabon comment cracked me up for a good minute straight. Then I read it to my girlfriend, and she cracked up too. Partly because we are both apt to "break right" for a hot cinnamon roll.

Not trying to start a thing over towing, but I have to vent. Who are these people towing 8,10,14 thousand pound trailers without brakes on the trailer? I've been looking for a 14-16' tandem axles trailer for a while and all the used ones I see don't have brakes...these trailers have max GVWR of up to 14K pounds and are not 5th wheel or goosenecks. Seriously? You have an F350 with a Class 5 weigh distro hitch and the trailer weighs 2-3 times what your truck weighs but I guess your good, right? No need to think about things like safety, control, flat tires or anything like that right? ARGH! Look I know I'm more risk averse than a lot of people but sheesh.

That's what I thought, that it was a 4-speed auto. I guess the body shop computer could have been identifying options 99 pathfinders, like it listed power mirrors, dual mirrors, heated mirrors separately, instead of as a single line, like "heated power side mirrors." Like I said, a little weird. It's a small thing (and unimportant), it's not like I could do anything about it if the pathy had a 5 speed auto in it.

A weird thing happened yesterday. I went to get an estimate for repair after an accident and when the body shop ran the VIN on my 99 R50, the computer pulled up: 5-speed transmission Automatic transmission This has got to be some weird computer glitch thing...R50s didn't come with 5 speed autos, did they?

HA, if only mechanics were that honest. Which is why I like to do my own work, at least then I know it's done right. But my job doesn't afford me the time to do the work myself anymore. It does pay the money to have it done though, so I shouldn't complain too much. And you're right, at least it's fixed before an accident.

So yeah, it's helpful if the correct struts and strut mounts are installed in the first place. UGH, sometimes buying used cars sux. Edit: OK so it's a couple hours later and I'm less mad. This is the story. When I bought the pathy, they put new struts in it. But apparently didn't put new strut mounts in. The front pass. side mount was busted, so I had them both replaced. When I turned in the truck at the shop this morning, I asked them to check and make sure the struts were the right parts for that model/year. The front drivers side was the wrong strut. When I looked a the strut mounts they installed (nissan OEM ones) they were different than the ones that had been there, so I'm guessing the wrong strut mounts were on it in the first place. Obviously I don't know for sure what the old mounts were or why they were on the truck in the first place. If I cared enough I would have asked for the part numbers and looked it up, but some things you just gotta let go, ya know? It just makes me mad when stuff is done half-assed.

No, there is an inch of space between the nut (threaded on as far as it will go) and the strut mount. Yea, I gotta get it looked at ASAP.

So about 7-10 days ago, I started hearing a squeak sound from the front passenger side of my pathy. I knew the front bearings were worn, so I figured that was it. I had them replaced yesterday, but still have the squeak and hit a pothole on the way home and heard a loud thump from the suspension. I went to look at it this afternoon. I was thinking I'd check the strut mount bolts first (why not start at the top, right?). First thing I see is that the strut rod nut is loose and not tight against the upper strut mount. Not only is it loose but the threads on the strut rod end like 1" above the strut mount. The strut mount isn't cracked or deformed. It's like the strut rod lifted up, or pushed through the strut mount bearing. Is that even possible, that the mount bearing broke? Or did the shop put in the wrong strut? Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

1) Make sure you get the correct length wires. 2) Tie a string on the end of the wire when you pull it down (or up) between the engine and firewall. Then tie the new O2 sensor wire to the string and pull it back down. Makes getting the wire routed correctly easier. 3) The drivers side wire is really difficult to get unfastened from the factory tie locations. Be patient, expect some scratches. 4) Zip ties are your friend, when you re secure the wires, make sure they are away from the exhaust pipes. 5) The drivers side O2 sensor is covered by a heat shield extension which you will have to bend out of the way unless you have an offset drive box wrench or O2 socket. 6) Unless they are really rusted into place, once you break them loose they will probably unscrew by hand. 7) Unplug and pull out the wires FIRST before unscrewing, screw the new ones in THEN route the wires, so you aren't fighting with the wiring harness twisting. 8) Don't forget the anti-seize when you put the new ones in. That's all I can think of from doing my 99...some of these may not apply.

Just to follow up, I got a set of BFG A/T KO, 31x10.5-15 on the pathy today. Those and set of new rear shocks appears to have fixed all my vibration, noise, ride and handling problems. Plus, they look cool.

A lever next to the transmission lever on the center console.

See this is why I think I was confused, were 99 models built with both 14a and 10x transfer cases? And how do I tell which is in my truck?

Hey all, I just need to verify some drive train info before I get to changing fluids. for my 99 SE 4x4 it should be: Front diff is open, gets API GL-5 80W-90 Trans is automatic, Nissan Matic "D" or Dextron III Transfer gets Nissan Matic "D"? (or does it get 75W-90 API GL-4) Rear diff is LSD, get LSD GL-5 80W-90 Oil? (on other LSD equipped cars I've had this means it has friction modifiers in the oil, which can also be added separately) I've looked at the service manuals I have and it's not really clear to me so, I'm asking for a little help.

Yea, I had BFG A/T on an F150 back in the 90s and really liked 'em. Drove 'em on the road, sand, snow, rocky stuff (no rock crawling, just rocky trails). I had a 4runner in the early 90s that had Kelly Safari SUV tires on it. I really liked those, they were great in the snow and mud when I went skiing in WA. It doesn't look like they make 'em anymore though. A buddy of mine had Bridgestone Revos on his 4runner and he liked 'em better than the BFG A/T they replaced. I'd like to stick with the stock 265/70-15 radials, but that limits my choices quite a bit. So I'll probably end up going with 31x10.5x15 on the stock wheels, always assuming they'll fit. Living in Alabama I don't really have to worry about snow/winter weather, so I don't feel like I really need a second set of wheels. Anyway, until I get some new tires, I'll have to remember to stay out of the mud.