johnm

Sure enough, the wheels needed to be balanced. The front left and right rear were really bad, and the others weren't right either. Pay good money and they don't do the work right the first time. Kinda bugs me.

Thanks guys. I'll get the balance checked again. More likely than not, I'll get a set of front wheel bearings and replace them when I have a chance. I'll be keeping the pathfinder for a few years, so it can't hurt.

After looking at the truck today and really paying attention, to be more specific on symptoms: The vibration is in the steering wheel, not the body. No squeak or noise at any speed, straight or turning, or any combination of those. There is no play in the steering, it is accurate and consistent. No wander, drift, or pull while driving. The vibration is definitely only between 60-65 mph. none before and it goes away above 65. No vibration while braking, except at the same speed zone. There is no noticeable, related, rhythmic tire or drive train noise. The front struts are new, the front suspension was inspected when I bought the truck and no deficiencies were noted in the bushings, brakes, rotors, control arms, tie rods, etc. I will have to get the truck up on a lift to check for play in the front end but I'm still leaning toward a wheel/tire balance problem.

OK, I'll look into the wheel bearings, it does have 116000 miles. It just seemed unlikely because of the absence of other symptoms that usually indicate that.

Hey, just need to confirm my thoughts on a small problem. I have an intermittent front end vibration in my 99 SE 4x4. I got it used in July this year. The alignment was really bad and once that was fixed I noticed a consistent front end vibration at above 50 mph or so. I got the wheels balanced and rotated 2 weeks ago. Now, at around 65 there is a smaller front end vib, but not all the time. It seems to come and go when I turn. E.g. If I'm going down the highway at 65 without the vibration, and switch lanes or the highway turns, the vib will be there. If I turn again, it goes away. There are no other symptoms, noise from the front end during turns, the vibration is independent of braking, no brake pedal pulse, no unexplained drift or pull or other alignment stuff. The tires that came on the truck are an off brand from Les Schwab and about 1/2 worn and about all the same wear amount. This really seems like it has to be a tire balance thing. Am I thinking right?

A portable 12V air compressor. Normally it just has the sat radio plugged into it and it works fine. The dash one has the lighter in it, so no problem there. If I get more electronic stuff I'll need a 3rd plug, I guess.

I tried searching and found a bunch of folks asking about this so here's what it was on my 99 SE. The rear seat power outlet quit working. In the engine compartment, on the passenger side is a fuse box. There is a 15A fuse labeled "power outlet 1" that was blown that goes to that power outlet. There is also a 15A outlet on the driver's side fuse box that is for the center console power outlet/cig lighter.

I got a new cap and rotor thru carstuff.com. I think beck arnley was the brand. Direct fit replacement.

All fixed. I got the new O2 sensor in the mail yesterday. So I replaced it this morning. Plugged in the OBD scanner, cleared the code, ran my errands, then did an I/M monitor...everything checked OK.

Holy revived thread batman. OK, so I threw a 158 code as well. Looked up the TSB for it, which says for VIN 350001 and UP, replace sensor and reprogram ECM. My VIN is 322227, so reprogramming doesn't apply. But the TSB doesn't say what to do on non-reprogram ECM, just says they can't be. So my question is: If I replace the 02 sensor and clear the MIL/SES code, should that fix it? As an aside, since I had such a hard time figuring out which was which: For the R50 Oxygen Sensors Bank 1 Sensor 1 is pre-cat passenger side Bank 1 Sensor 2 is post-cat passenger side Bank 2 Sensor 1 is pre-cat driver's side Bank 2 Sensor 2 is post-cat driver's side

First, it is a Bose System. Second, since I didn't understand what you just said, I better just take it to a sound place. I don't like to admit ignorance, but shoot if I don't know was "4v preamp output" or "integration adapter" is, I probably can't do it myself. Thanks for the post though, seriously.

Hey guys, lots of stuff on here about replacing audio equipment with aftermarket stuff. I'm not much of an audiofile, don't need world class sound, just need it to work. The one in my PF don't work worth a crap, CDs skip, tape player only sorta works, etc. Anyway, since I'm on a budget, I don't have a bunch of money to spend rewiring the whole audio system. So here's my questions: 1) How bad is the sound with an aftermarket HU with adapters hooked up to factory amps/speakers? Are we talking, "eh, it's ok." or are we talkin', "78 chevy factory FM/AM w/2 speakers and 4 watt output." 2) How much are we talking about to get a decent HU and adapter cables installed? Couple hundred? (I mean, installation cost only).

Thank you.

Oh yeah, my dogs ride in my vehicles. I got six. A German Shepherd, border collie, 2 basset hounds, a coon hound, and a dachshund.

I'm going to put this out there, with the caveat that this is my opinion. I'm not saying this is what anyone else should do, that it's legal, or in any other way mandatory. I've done a lot of towing, with a lot of different vehicles and trailers. Pickups, vans, cars, and different military vehicles. I've towed in town, in traffic, interstates, local roads, 2 lane, 4 lane, off road, in the mountains and the flat. I even backed trailers up ramps into airplanes a few times. These are the rules of thumb I've developed through hard experience. * Trailers over 1000 pounds, brakes may be needed depending on where you are, # of axles, and trailer size: check state and federal laws * Towing 10-25% of vehicle curb weight (VCW), no brakes is OK. * >25% of VCG, get them trailer brakes, electric, hydraulic, air, surge, whatever is there, get 'em and hook 'em up. * Don't tow more than 50% of VCG unless the vehicle was designed for towing (i.e. factory installed towing options, like trans cooler, HD brakes, air cleaner, etc.) * Don't exceed tow vehicle gross weight rating or gross combined rating (if it has one). For my pathfinder w/o factory tow pkg, with a curb weight around 3800 pounds, that would mean around a 1000 pounds, I'm looking for trailer brakes, and would hesitate to tow more than 2000. Admittedly, these rules of thumb are conservative. And again, I'm not saying anyone else has to follow them. I like to control my risk levels, so wiring and brake controller is worth my trouble. And a factory wiring pigtail would make my life easier, so I asked. I will get a service manual for myself, I just don't have one yet.

OK, I did a search for this. Found lots of info on towing but the couple of links to wiring pictures were broken. Did the R50s come with a factory wiring harness for brake controller installation? Or maybe only with factory tow package? If not, it's no big deal, I can just wire it on it's own circuit, but here's why I ask. The owners manual recommends using trailer brakes for towing over 1000 pounds with the 99 SE Auto, so I thought maybe Nissan built it in, if they are recommending it. Anyway, I have an enclosed trailer for my motorcycle that with the bike inside weighs about 1800 pounds. The trailer has brakes, so I'd like my Pathy to be able to be hooked up with 'em. As an aside: If you want to talk towing adventure, I pulled the trailer with the bike and about 600 pounds of tools and other stuff from WA to AL with a 03 Crown Vic cop car. That's a 4800 pound car towing a 2400 pound trailer. Max tow on the car was 2500 pounds and I believe it. The mountains from CA across AZ, NM, TX on I-40 were interesting. Got here safe and sound, no accidents, no incidents, no trouble. Not so much as an overheated brake. And with my GSD in the back seat, I got a lot of strange looks but noone bothered us.