turbopath
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Posts posted by turbopath
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Didnt go past 2500 rpms? Sounds like a MAF problem.
Yeah, Alex has had experience with that one.
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ya, the chassis can handle a 5k lb trailer... The engine can't. lol.
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If you want to do mild mods without tuning get the VQ. I/H/E and let it be and it will be adequately powered. I think you just had bad luck with your old VG...and tuning can be a pita. (btw, did you sell off that aem and safc?)
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Well, it's hard to recommend one or the other without knowing what your goals are. If you're going for big power, get the VG. 300zx tranny+modified ET manifolds and you can rock out 300+ on a factory engine. The Z31 guys do it all the time with the VG33.
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hmm, time to cut and paste eh? The maxima fans fit like they came there from the factory. If I didn't know better, I would say it is the same core with different endtanks and mounting points. I'll throw on some more fans and see what happens. I have a e-fan tranny cooler I'm going to slap on as well. I was wanting to save that for the z32 trans when I get to it though.
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Are you running the stock engine fan?
The max fans seem about the same as the stocker to me. I would get hotter offroad with the stock fan actually. These were not light trailers btw. One of them was 3300lbs, the other was 4000. Surprisingly the car50 handles them very well with the OME's. It isn't something I try to do very often or for very far though. Regardless, the heat produced when I cross the 350 ft/lb mark will overheat me in no time with this cooling system.
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Just thought I'd ask before I did something custom... Are there any easy upgrades to a bigger radiator for the VG car50's? Every time I pull a big load the temp guage rockets to the H and boils my reservoir. Doesn't usually leak unless it's a long grade. I never overheat at any other time, so I know it's a capacity issue. Well, unless I go slow offroad in 4lo. That gets me on occasion. Anyway, I need to kill this problem before I start making big power and overheat all the time.
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What island are you on? RD? You may be better off getting a used low mileage transmission either from the US or Japan. I'd be willing to be either would run you about the same amount of cuarto.
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The one thing you have to realize about the MegaSquirt system, is that it's totally a custom job. The buyer has to wire and program everything, and it is a real pain in the ass to set up. I did one on my VW, and will never do it again. The pre-wired/programmed units, though, MUCH more expensive, are worth it if you don't have the patience or know-how to set up the MS system yourself.
I've built a bunch of them and enjoy it. I do recommend buying the flying lead harness though. That part blows.
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hmm...that definitely changes things. DIY moonshine would work very well if you had enough organic product to feed the process. Regardless, you could get a megasquirt setup for about 200 bucks and a set of MSD alcohol rated 40lb injectors for another 300. Throw in a 150 dollar wideband O2 sensor and some tuning time and you'd be rocking. You could put a switch on the megasquirt to switch fuel tables to go from E85 to gas on the same injectors. Factory injectors probably wouldn't like 85% alcohol or flow enough to run it...but the fuel lines and seals should hold up.
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You could run E85 if you had something like a megasquirt to control the injectors when you were on it. Not really much point since you would consume more E85 from point A to B than you would gas. CNG is cool stuff. I've been looking into that conversion rather seriously. Much cleaner than diesel or biodiesel and will allow you to run crazy compression ratios NA or a nice turbo setup.
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An appropriately sized free flowing exhaust without backpressure produces more torque. Exhaust velocity is what makes torque. Some manufactureres and crappy shops will put in something restrictive to increase velocity, when they could have used something better all the way out. With the R50, you'd want to make some headers with matching diameter cats. Stock manifolds suck and I doubt you'd notice much of a gain by upgrading your cats without headers.
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I am also dying to have a DVD drop down screen so I am thinking when I do the mod I am going to carefully nix the sunglass holder and try to splice a screen in its place. If successful pics will follow, if failed, it shall never again be spoken of.
Since I will need to run the temp sensor to the console, and hopefully a video cable, I might as well get the dimming accessory power as well. That should be fun all in all.
I came extremely close to buying the new console today (found one at an awesome price) but I couldn't figure out how to remove the damn thing without breaking it.
I was hoping the screw inside the sunglass case was the keystone, but removing it didn't seem to loosen anything.Any tips on removal?
I think I read somewhere else that I might need to tap into the spedo for something. Is this true? There are no fuel related readouts are there (average mpg, miles remaining on tank)?
nissandoms47 has done this...you might want to ask him. I think he said he just ran a wire out to the sensor he added and connected another to the tach.
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Do you still have oe cat's and exhaust out from the headers? That would explain the low gain. The printout you have is likely sae corrected hp and tq and the computer file is actual. My experience on headers on my other vehicles was a slight change of powerband with a factory exhaust, and a noticeable gain with nice open exhaust. BTW, leaner AFR's like that don't hurt hp on a NA engine. I made peak hp on my other car with an AFR of 14.1:1....that's the hottest and leanest I could go without knocking and it showed about a 5hp gain over 12:1. Obviously you don't want to run that lean for daily driving though. You may want to try out a safc to see if you can richen it up just a hair, but I think you may have something else going on with your car. The fact that you require premium should say something. Check your fuel filter/injectors.
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My door locks will have a hard time moving sometimes and make a really fast clicking noise. I can put on a different handle and the noise goes away. I would get some silicone lubricant and lube the plastic around the hinges in the handle itself and see if you have a similar problem.
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There is no sound deadening above the headliner or around the back of the car behind the plastic panels. I was actually thinking about getting some fiberglass and building an enclosure into the right hand side back there. There's a ton of room behind the little panel/storage thing.
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For early-model Pathfinders, the XE (and LE) rack has a longer throw than the SE rack, which means that the XE/LE turning circle is smaller at full steering lock. This is because these models were equipped with smaller tires, and had less risk of rubbing.
Steering specs:
Turning diameter: XE/LE 35.4 ft ..... SE 37.4 ft
Turns, lock-to-lock: XE/LE 3.2 ...... SE 3.0
Basically, if you want a smaller turning radius, get the XE rack. If you want less chance of rubbing with big tires on the inside of the frame (especially on the right-side fuel-line cover), get the SE rack.
ha, I'll get the SE rack then. I ALWAYS rub my 31's even with a small lift. (although I think wheel backspacing is the determining factor on that one)
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Haha yeah, I need to fix the strut angle tho and make spacers for the rear. I bought some used 33" MT/Rs with 60% tread for $200 so it should be pretty cool when its done.
That is...if I don't put the 33's on my car50 and run off with them first. haha.
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So what's the difference between the SE rack and the XE rack? There are two different part numbers based on original tire size. I figured since I have meaty tires and my rack is making noise that I should use the SE, but I was hoping to find out what the difference was first. Thanks.
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haha, you should see the pic of the rim. A beadlock wouldn't have saved it. Big rock>rim. haha. Looks like fun alex.
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The first time I saw the title of this post I was thinking "oh sweet!" Then I remembered I have a clutch.
Lucky you. My wife would flip if I had all cars with 5spd. haha.
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I wonder if that torque peak is due to the torque converter effect on the dyno....
Any guesses on how long the tranny will last with one of those and a cooler?
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Well alex, looks like they fit it with the dizzy in the factory location... ready to dent your hood for the M90 in my garage? haha. I think I'll stick with the 50 trim t04e. I wonder how crazy their tensioner setup is though.
Exhaust ?'s
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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2.25 in and 2.5 out is a good arrangement for you motor. However, I have dual 2.5 inch in 3 inch out and didn't notice any loss of torque. <I did that for the turbo setup that's on the way in the near future though.