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denisb

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Posts posted by denisb

  1. First off you don't mention year. This will only fix the guages up to and not including 95.....I beleive :hide: .

     

    Typically your gauges will drop instead of spiking. This is because the voltage regulator fails as it heats and you get no voltage to the gauges therefore the needle drops. The spiking would suggest more of a spike in voltage which is non-typical of a voltage regulator going bad (not to say it couldn't happen). So long story short.....possible, yet not probable.

     

    This being said....the fix is a couple of dollars plus at worst an hour of your time. It might still be worth a try.

  2. G.W. for me.......reason........if you look at the intelectual level these people should be on, the leader of a country should be a little better at.....cough, cough......"explaining/relaying" his thoughts than a bubble blond celebrity that made it on looks alone.

     

    Besides, Paris, Brit and Jessica work on providing this publicity to keep in the lime life were as G.W. probably would rather erase some of the comments he's ever made.

  3. 31s will be tight on factory setup. Depending on how much sag you have from your torsion bars and rear springs, you could have issues. You will most probably have rubbing if you do any extreme 4wheeling even if your susoension is not sagging.

     

    I'm guessing a 2" lift would get you 32s comfortably.......33s......might be tight.

  4. You mention replacing your calipers with another set (not being sure they were good) and then going back to your old set. Let's say for arguments sake both set were seized, you would not be able to bleed properly and you would probably see a mushy if not no existent pedal. Make sure none of your pins (front or rear calipers) are seized.

     

    Also I had one of my rear lines go bad once and had to take my master cylinder appart (seals and all), reasemble and then it bench bled perfect. Not sure if my bypass valve had seized when the line broke, but I could not get a good peddal before and when I re-bled the master and then re-bled the brakes everything panned out.....maybe just weird gremlins....

  5. According to manual (since I've never bled ABS). Disconnect ground and actuator connector from ABS unit with ignition off.

     

    Then bleed in the following order.

     

    1 load sensing valve (if equipped)

    2 left rear

    3 right rear

    4 left front

    5 right front

    6 Rear ABS Actuator

     

    The rest is normal bleeding. If you went thru those steps and still have problem......then someone else needds to pipe in since I am not sure.

  6. Nice ride! I love the black on black tint. Chromes are nice, but I think steelies would look better. and it needs about 2" lift to fit the wheels and look more like an off road vehicle and less like a mall crawler.

     

    Maybe the border patrol saw the vehicle as trying to look like something it wasn't (a street vehicle trying to look like an off road vehicle) and since he was an off roader felt like you had something to hide. :tongue:

     

    Denis

  7. Maybe it is the voltage regulator for the instrument cluster. That seems to be what is going on with my pathy right now.

     

    Drove it on a 2000km round trip with the temp guage, oil pressure guage, and fuel guage on drugs.

     

    If it's got the temp and gas going freaky it could be regulator, but if only one of the two is acting up, it's not the regulator since it's the same regulator that runs both.

  8. I did bend my own lines.

     

    If you buy the rolled stuff for the longer leghts (a little more flexible) you can actually bend them by hand without a bender. Be careful not to bend to sharp of an angle, because if you kink them it's not good. Take a 1 foot leght and practice first. It won't be as clean a job as the rolled stuff never ends up perfectly straight, but you can run it on the inside of the frame where it can't be seen easily. Zip-tie it to existing gas line and you're good to go.

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