kbjj

Iv'e just snapped my 2nd transfercase chain. Admittadly it was loaded to the max ie. while stuck, I was hard on the gas and riding the brake to aid limited slips. I guess I'll have to refrain from that habit, although it works well. Any stronger options for these?

The glow plug timer/control box is under passenger seat, which can be moved up under dash as most wires come from there anyway. The EGR control box is in the rear guard (passenger side I think), which monitors engine temp, throttle position, and rpm, then controls the two vacuume operated EGR valves to "reburn" exhast gases to control emissions. I recommend removing vacuum lines to both valves and pluging them, then fix the inlet valve open (or remove and weld up holes), and then spade the exhast valve at flange to make sure it doesn't bypass exhast. The EGR control box will still be needed to run your rev counter. The td27 will handle 15psi boost, and increased fueling with no probs, as long as you monitor EGT (exhast gas temp) if you do it yourself. The only real problems I've had with my td27, is the starter motor (is now sealed with an extended breather), and the alternater rear bearing. When this fails, it eats the rear seal between vacuum pump, which in turn pumps oil into your alt, which fry's the diodes. As for your idler arm, your in the prime position to use a left hand drive steering box (with half it's guts removed and pitman arm turned 180 degrees) as an idler. Hope this helps in some way.

You could try going back to school. An SAS won't be cheap or easy to do properly by someone with limited experience.

Seems to work ok as far as turbos go. Starts boosting at 1800 rpm and full boost at 2200 rpm, red line about 4200 rpm. Supercharger set up right should boost about 4 or 5 psi at idle.

Hi teamtrucker, I got rid of those pics as they were only of the patrol knuckles that I was after. Is there any particular photos/veiws you want? I now have done a U bolt flip on the rear with falcon rear leaves, which are a lot longer and have achieved a bit more flex, also with a coil spring on top of diff ( in centre ) to assit with carrying heavy loads, but doesn't affect articulation. If anything, it seems to help. I have mounted a "torque arm" which helps stop diff wrap, which was bending my soft leaves. Also considering removing turbo off the td27 ( which is runing at 15 psi boost ) and fitting a sc14 supercharger off a toyota, to give me better torque. I would like to fit the crawler gearcase gears, but they are a bit expensive, but I havn't ruled them out yet. Then arb airlockers... and the wish list goes on. I have started building an exo- skeleton thou. Learnt something everyone with an electric winch should know. If you submerse winch in water or mud (common for some), strip it, clean it then drill and tap an air fitting into bottom of motor for a remote breather, then when reassembling winch, seal the factory vents. I also put an Oring on each end of cable drum. I recommend doing this to a new winch.

Yeah, great joints these. I've used them on the rear ends of my 3 links. Most impressed with them. I'm looking at replacing rear leaves with early Ford Falcon ute or station wagon ones (they are way longer and should flex more), and repositioning mounts before having a go at setting up an anti wrap bar.

Here in NZ, a few have done conversions to there solid axle hilux's by using rear leaf springs up front (moves axel forward 50mm... whoops, 2 inches, so longer driveshaft needed), and then re-positioning rear leaf mounts to take longer early ford falcon ute or station wagon rear leaf springs. They twist/articulate real well, and also fit 35's with no guard modifications. I'm looking at this rear mod for my 86 Navara. The let down is they can't handle heavy loads the same and are a wee bit spongy/soft onroad. My mate jacks his hilux up and sits coils (we found lying around) over the bump stops (to locate them) when carrying heavy loads, or onroad. This helps heaps. If he needs it to flex, he removes them.

Hey, does anyone in NZ or Ozzy deal with TD27 5 speed gearbox, transfer case crawler gear kits? Is there any other crawler gear options (keeping it road worthy). Atlas transfer cases cost too much. Cheers

I think they call my problem "axel wrap". Articulation with the supple springs is good. I have looked at a ladder bar set up, but believe it will fight/restrict articulation. A single, long top link would probably be better. More homework required I think Cheers

I might do something like that as I run a laptop with mapping software in truck, and a GPS pluged into it, so a camera would be cheap and easy. I just hope I don't fall off the track because I'm to busy watching the screen. Record might be useful.

I dont think the early Navara grill will fit a Terrano as the Terrano bonnet has a bigger lip on front edge, and guards are different also to suit bonnet. I'll check it out sometime. Put some dents in my truck last weekend. It took 3 hours to get 5 trucks through a washout named "The Crevass". Lots of winching. Without being byass, my truck performed the best. My mates loved watching the front end twist up, one thing I struggle to see. I've just installed a EGT guage and increased fuel on the TD27, and increased the boost to 15psi. On 35's, it now goes like it was on 31's, maybe better, I'm loving it. Not as economical thou.

Hi, thought I better introduce myself. I live in Rangiora and work in ChCh. Well... I turn up and they pay me, does that qualify? Iv'e recently finished doing an SAS on my 86 D21 Navara because I was sick of breaking it. I run 35 inch Silverstones for play and 33 inch whatevers for roadys. Truck is set up for family and friends, camping and adventure. I enjoyed the few tracks Iv'e been on around Refton area and am looking for more. My first trip after SAS was up the Ashley Gorge. A couple of dents and alot of fun. Even drowned a Safari. Have a look at my pics in the "SAS Hardcore Fab" section. I'm waiting for my new EGT guage and sensor to arrive so I can start to play with turbo boost and fueling. TD27 can handle 15 psi safely I'm told. Yea Ha... more ponnies... I can't wait.

Thanks Pezzy. Its not user friendly adding pictures is it. Heres some Pics... Dual springs are 12inch 250lb and 12inch 350lb. I can now get a wee bit more articulation than pictures show. RTI on a 23 degree ramp is 695. Whats the best way to stop the rear diff twisting under load with soft leaf springs??? ... ... ... ...

Finished my SAS. Happy but still fine tuning (I dont think that will ever stop). How the hell do I add some pics. Give me a grinder and welder any day. Thanks for your input Simon, my idea of a lefthand drive, right knuckle wouldn't have worked anyway, as I hadnt taken into consideration the ackerman angle.

Talking ratios... some might be interesed that the D21 Nivara (twin cab ute), has CA48 (4.875 ratio or 39 to 8 teeth).The front diff bolts into Pathfinder, rear on Nivara is leef spring setup.

Impact caused the steering wheel to be out, and now tyres are scrubbing on inside. Camber will affect where the tyres wear, but toe in/out will make them wear quicker or scrub. From my experience, the steering idler arm will be bent up causing to much toe in, and because pathfinders run a certain amount of camber standard (yours may be too much), its ended up stuffing the tyres. I'd recommend sending it to the shop for a wheel alignment to get it right, especially if your not familier with steering, otherwise it may cost you another set of tyres prematurely.

Hello there, I'm from New Zealand and this is my first post. I have been reading with interest all about SAS's and am impressed by some of the fab work. I'm probably posting this in the wrong place sorry, but I hate computers. I rather be doing it. I have started my own SAS on my D21 Navara and have built my own front axel/diff housing using readily available parts. It is a chopped Toyota Hilux housing with Landcruiser Prado (70 series I think) high pinion 4.88 LSD head, Landcruiser BJ60 axels, and GQ Nissan Safari Y60(Patrol) balls CV's hubs stubs brakes etc. I'm doing a 3 link plus panard setup, using Johnny Joints on one end of each link, with 12" FOA coilover shocks(I have yet to work out spring rate combo). Steering is going to be an issue. Worst case, I will have to make some high steer arms. What I really want is a left hand drive, right knuckle (what the kingpins bolt to) out of a GQ Y60 Nissan Patrol 1990'ish. Pictured is the right hand drive, left knuckle. My right knuckle dosn't have the arm pointing forward, which is what I want. Can anyone help... Please. I have emailed a few different wreckers around the globe, but no replies (oh, got one in German and French and they want me to ring). Who will send me one, and how much do I owe you? So far...