stikky_p

Im located in canada.. Medicine Hat Alberta to be exact..

A reman distributer is $550... cap and rotor is $65 total.. I'm gonna try the cap and rotor first then move to the distributer.. Hopefully maybe the cap is shorted or arcing.. If i'm on the wrong road please let me know..

Ok so it happened again this morning. I put a voltage tester on it while it was turning over and there was VERY LITTLE spark if any. It read "NO SIGNAL" for a bit then 4k cranking on some.. seems to be a very low voltage problem.. what to do next???

Ok so i replaced the plugs.. They were black so i'm assuming its because it was running rich.. Dry fouling is what they call it i guess. Seems to run good and havent had the no start issue yet. I tested the plug wires resistance and got nothing under 6000-7000 so the readings seem to be ok. I know once a wire goes below reading 6000 its pooched.. Nothing was quite that low.. even the shorter wires.. No ecu codes come up and the computer has nothing stored. The thing that bothers me is my test in between.. I tested the voltage through the spark plug wire.. I got a snapon spark plug voltage tester that hooks up to the battery positive and negitive.. then another hooks up to the plug wire and reads out voltage of spark.. It was reading 4000 to maybe 6000 volts each wire... Thats on the low end of the tester so im wondering if this is normal? Someone told me that the volts should be 8000 low to 12000 high.. not sure whats correct..

Ok so it did it again this morning. I took another vehicle to work and left it at home. Havent managed to get back there. Why would the time of day have anything o do with this? It always happens after sitting for 12 hours or more and always in the morning.. Its hard to diagnose because when it does it i'm always on my way to work or busy so i cant spend time checking fuel pump and spark.. Whats a guy to do?

UPDATE: I tried the switching keys approach but that did not work either. It seems like it only happens in the morning when its 5-10 degrees or so. Doesnt happen all day or night until morning or after it has sat for an extended period. After the failed attempt to start it will start about 1/2 hour after the first try. I thought it may be a security issue but who knows. Any help would be great...

Im not thinking its the ignition. The seat was damp a bit and water on the door cil but not soak. It would need to travel a long way to get to the ignition..

Im not sure yet. Haven't dug that deep. When i go home tonight i'll check into the spark and fuel. Im going to try my other key first. Some people have said that the programmed keys might be causing the issue. I'll try my spare and see if it works.

Hey guys... Well i purchased a 1997 Nissan Pathfinder for the upcoming winter and have owned it for about 4 months. Recently I accidently left my window down and a bit of rain got in the vehicle. Ever since then i've had a strange issue. I'll go out to my vehicle and try to start it. Light and everything work with the radio and starter turns fine. No lack of starting power however it will not fire up. I left it for about 5 or 6 hours and came back.. Started up fine.. Then 3 days later it happened again. Leaving my stranded before work.. What could this problem be? Someone told me that it could be my Security/Alarm system. How would i fix this issue or check to see if it is the culprit? If not what other issue's are common?

ok now i have another issue that might bring us closer.. when the vehicle is warm and idling.. it idles at about 1000rpm.. now just sitting there in revs slowly up and down.. up to about 1300 then back to 1000 then 3 or 5 seconds later it revs up again then down.. its never a routine thing etiher.. could be gone for 10 seconds then back... im going to look into a vacuum issue this weekend but not sure if a can of carb cleaner or ether will totally do the trick.. any help?

would that cause the constant hesitation at about 2000 rpm??

anyone??? im kinda stuck lol... I ran out and tryed to start it again but battery was dead.. im guessing it wasnt fully charged.. charging it up now but vehicle seemed to run awesome but with a backfire.. fuel is low should i add in some injector cleaner?? maybe a fuel additive to clean??

OK OK WOAH!!!!! I think i have a breakthrough.. I went out to mess around with the unit.. charged the battery because i mistakingly left the inside light on.. DOAH... then started it... started great with it boosted.. took the booster off and all was good as normal.. let it warm up and decided to test it and IT WORKED!... there was no more stumble.. however when i drove it around the back alley i noticed it was lacking in power.. and when i reved the engine up it would backfire.. but only when the idle was coming back down.. i would rev it to like 3000rpm and on the way down at about 1500 or so it would backfire and spit a little black smoke out.. not a ton.. barley noticable.. DOES THIS HELP?? i also noticed i was little low on fuel and coolant.. not severly but rather low..

i think as soon as it warms up here im going to check the timing asap.. i hope thats what it is or else im adding another equasion to the puzzle... could a malfunctioning EGR valve be the cause?

mines the 4cyl.. not v6.. i could probably guestimate but if the dizzy is out then im right messed up...

how did you line it up properly.. i have a haynes manual and it tells me how to properly adjust the dizzy but not pull it and align it properly.. my timing case has no indicator on it so i cant tell where the tdc should be.. anyother way to find this out without to much hassle? like i said its running fine at idle but bogs when its put under load on reved up.. maybe i need to advance the timing a bit.. that may be where the lack of power is coming from too.. mind you they never had any sufficient power to start lol..

i couldnt remember the code but i know it reported no problems.. im going to do a couple things so i can count them out.. i think this would be good tests.. fuel pressure test injector ohm test checking vacuum lines or leaks spraying carb cleaner listing for idle changes thats just to start i guess.. if anyone has any head up on the injector test can you let me know.. I dont know exactly what the ohm should be using a multimeter.. or if there is a easier way??

ecu gives no codes.. it says normal operating conditions.. code 55 i think.. hasnt reported anything wrong.. How would i test the injectors? for some reason i think that may be the issue..

well this unit starts awesome and idles just fine.. just when you step on the gas it bogs down and dies.. im sure its gott abe fuel or air issues.. wouldn't it idle crappy or start like crap if the timing was out?

vaccum is one of those things that i know may effect it.. but will it effect it that much?? where abouts would i get the vac diagrams for the 87 4 cyl engine? as do they make a full vaccum line kit??

see thats another issue i was thinking about. Unfortuantly there is no timing mark anymore. I dont knwo what happened to it. Usually there is a metal edge coming off the block with a line on it telling you where to match up but there isnt on this engine. not sure why.. is there any other way to check and make sure it hasnt jumped a notch and my timing is out? i have a timing light but dont know how to use it without that notch..

Hey guys... I have a 1987 pathfinder 4x4 manual tranny.. The vehicle runs rather well just at idle. When you push on the pedal it bogs out and wants to stall.. u think u wanna rev it up to feed more idle but it bogs more.. then dies.. its got the electro injection. with the carb and the 2 injectors in the middle. Im thinking it might be fuel problem. either to lean or rich. ive changed to fuel filters and enough fuel pressure seems to be coming through. could it be a vaccum issue? as soon as you press the pedal to accelerate it dies out.. just wondering what the cause might be?? could it be a head gasket issue? i noticed a small coolant leak but im not sure where its coming from.. no overheating or anything tough.. and i only have to fill the resevoiur a tiny bit every now and then.. so im thinking its not that.. need help.. .

I'll have to take some pictures.. Basiclly the clutch fork that goes into the tranny that is connected to the release bearing has somehow come off inside.. I can freely move the lever... Just to clear this up i'm trying to restore the USA unit instead of using it for parts... I do however have another unit for parts just in case i need something... I just wanted to know if there was anything i could do to fix this besides dropping the tranny and getting that involved. I do not have the space or ability to do that myself so if thats the case i'll take it to the shop and get them to do it..

Alright so my engine blew in my unit... so i purchased another parts hardbody that is a USA unit but just for the engine. Turns out the USA truck is way better condition than my CAN unit.. Except the clutch... THe clutch goes right to the floor with no action what so ever.. i traced the line and turns out the plunger is right out of the slave cylindar. I was going to replace that but once i got deeper i notcied that the release lever that attaches to the release bearing inside the tranny is loose and flopping all over.. Seems like it let go inside the tranny. Kinda like the pin came off?? What can i do to rectify this? Anything i can do at home? Unfortuantly i dont have a garage so its time sensitive as winter is quickly approaching in canada.. any help would be awesome..

im having the same problem and cant figure it out.. only gauge on mine that works is batt gauge speedo tach and the 2nd 1/4 tank fuel gauge. the actual fuel gauge doesnt.. same with all the rest of the gauges.. and no lights either. its confusing.. haha