Tungsten
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Posts posted by Tungsten
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You should test the output of the sender with a multimeter. It could be the gauge that's actually malfunctioning.
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Is the shape of the cone really important enough that you'd get better sound from a smaller speaker?
You bet. More cone surface area means more bass. They only come in ovals for space optimization and nothing else. Studio speakers are always round, never oval.
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There are some units that have the big mirrors and lights in them. I picked up a set along with the map light at the junkyard and wired all that stuff in.
Everything came out of a newer WD21.
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Notice in the manual you also have to change the brake fluid every 3000 miles.
They have 4 wheel drive so they are good for the snow.
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Yep looks like around 15,000 miles. That's crazy $1500 in tires every year and a half.
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So it's actually a 36,000 mile fluid replacement if you drive normally or 3,000 miles if you get it really hot. I don't see much in there regarding tires but from what I know performance tires typically last about 30,000 miles with normal driving. Thanks for the book.
Mobil1 0W-40 is an interesting oil choice. That would mean stronger shearing resistance and lower cranking temperatures.
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lmao troll job indeed
at least my mods are real and they actually work
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Definitely a non-DOT light. Even has the headlight washers.
Yeah i read a whole bunch of why not to do the 9007s but i did it anyway knowing what i was getting into...but one just burnt out today so i switched back to my spare 9004s, gotta aim them waaay up tomorrow lol and fir the hid retrofit i meant buying the clear front plastic headlights and sourcing something like audi TT oem projectors and ballasts and either way is going to cost a ton but i kind of love messing around with lights hahaIf you want to do it that way then it's fine but will look really weird. You don't even really have to buy clear plastic headlights but just use the clear plastic lens. I think sourcing LHD E-code lights is going to be cheaper.
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I don't question that a VG30E and even VG30i is an efficient motor. It's extremely efficient for the technology it was built on. It can make lots of power too. The only problem is that the physics don't add up here. You are hauling a 3800 lbs brick of a truck around on a small engine. You can't have 180 hp and get 30 mpg at the same time even on longer gears which would actually cause even more stress on the engine and have even longer acceleration times. Maybe longer gears allow for cruising at lower rpms when going faster but even the wind resistance is going to require more fuel.
Also going with an X pipe is much better than true dual anyway as it will balance out the sides. Just talk to anyone who builds exhaust systems.
Hey if you found a way to make a old WD21 get 30+ mpg don't hesitate to share as many details as you can.
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So the trans fluid replacement estimate I heard about wasn't too far off then...
How often do you have to replace the tires on it? I would imagine that would depend on the tire but performance tires aren't known for long life and low price either.
Anyone willing to buy a vehicle like that must definitely have a foundation with money to burn. At least if it's used as a daily driver.
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Transmission fluid will generally last a while, especially the newer formulations. It might last even longer with a fluid cooler. I changed mine like 30,000 miles ago already and it's still like I just put it in. I have a cooler of course. I would give it another 20,000 miles before looking at it again.
For automatic transmissions, generally the more power your engine makes, the sooner you have to change the fluid. A Nissan GT-R has an 18,000 mile transmission fluid interval that costs $2,000 just for the fluid.
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The first link looks great. Extra bit of bass is just what it is needed in the doors.
I also have one of those speaker brackets but could not do a retrofit because there is one thing missing. There is actually a cross member that mounts to the roof that holds one side of the bracket.
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I actually wonder if it is possible to put round speakers in the door. More cone surface area is theoretically capable of producing more bass.
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You lose high beam if you run 9007 in a 9004 housing. Even if you aim it down the beam pattern will be way off and improperly focused. Never run 9007 bulbs in a 9004 housing. Also, HID retrofit kits tend to be junk. They do not pass any kind of certification and don't have to.
The best thing to do is to source a pair of E code genuine Nissan headlamps from a LHD country. I tried to but it ends up costing between $300 and $500 depending on where I buy from. On top of that I would worry about breaking them. The Hardbody conversion ended up costing under $200 for everything.
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Are those balancing holes too? The OEM Nissan flywheel is better for sure.
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The anti drain back valve design is different across filters. Some are better and some are worse. The BOSCH ones seems to be pretty good.
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I ended up doing an IPF light conversion instead. It was cheaper and things are easier to replace if broken.
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34786-running-ipf-820h-headlight-housings/
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VDO gauges are awesome. FYI I know some stock WD21/D21 clusters are compatible with VDO inputs and outputs. Also, Summit Racing actually has a pretty good selection.
I like this one:
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Where are you in NY? How does it feel going from a Z to a Pathfinder?
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I don't see anything wrong with that oil change interval. I would change it a little sooner but that should not cause any knocking. Maybe a power valve screw fell in?
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How do you know you are pushing 190 hp?
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I suspect that engine is running very lean. If it's not running lean then it's not getting enough intake or exhaust or both and in that case it runs on half the power. What kind of tires do you run?
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That has to do more with the head design too. Stock VG30 heads are very restrictive for more low end power. Hence they produce optimal flow for low rpm operation. The only issue with the factory exhaust is that it is a little bit more restrictive than the heads. For low rpm operation this is not noticeable. You will however notice a small difference with an aftermarket exhaust during acceleration. In N/A form you do not make any power after about 5500 rpm and the torque peaks at about 3800 rpm. It's pointless to rev up to 8000 rpm. In fact at that engine speed, the lifters will float and the lubrication system no longer works properly. The red line is there for a reason. Also, I don't know how you are measuring but 32 mpg is impossible unless you are running dangerously lean.
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A lot of cars come with tons of back pressure due to the exhaust, ie, catalytic converter, stock mufflers, single exhaust, that's partially how you get such high compression not nearly as much as high compression pistons, upgraded cam, lifters, rods and such but it does play a part in obtaining more compression but I don't need hardly any for the application ill be having it for. I just off-road a lot I don't need balls to the walls power I want to get the job done and still have my vehicle sound good too, that's why I'm going with headers, high flow CA legal cats, and glass pack mufflers, which will result in very little back pressure but I like the idea of an X pipe I'm just curious as to wether ill have the clearance between my drive shaft and the body when ripping through ruts or whoops as I have a drive shaft from a mid 80s peterbuilt, its larger than stock, not by much but you never know what will happen.
No, back pressure is bad. All that OEM junk only reduces horsepower and exhaust flow. OEM is made for optimal flow at low rpms. You want optimal flow for your target RPM range and not back pressure.
My New Doug Thorley Headers (Clamp Size)
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by Tungsten
Use the 2" band clamp. Just don't forget to add some sealant on the clamp before you put it on.
The collector is made for a 2.5" exhaust pipe but the cross over is 2". I don't see anything wrong with that.