Orangetang
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Posts posted by Orangetang
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I called RR back around when I made that last post. They sent out the correct ones on their dollar. Yesterday my shocks arrived in proper packaging, unlike the last set. I installed the shocks this afternoon, and decided to do the struts too. The whole process took me about 4 hours... Camber is way out, I'll need to figure out how to fix that. Sending RR the original shocks tomorrow. Might put the shipping cost towards some sliders. Also should mention my strut insulators and brackets were fine so I re-used them. Will be returning that stuff to Nissan on Tuesday. All I replaced was the strut nut and bearing. Pics later on.. I'll need to wash it first
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couldn't you just cut a piece of 5/16" wood or something and lay it on the plenum, see if the hood closes? I don't know howd you measure this otherwise.
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Of course, what is optimal on the highway during winter will be much lower than what you need climbing steep grades at low rpm in the middle of summer....
If I rememeber during winter, I'll try to do a comparison. We get about an 80C change in temp between summer and winter here..
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I'm no expert but I'd except if an engine is retarding its timing to prevent knocks and pings, there will a drop in performance AND economy. I don't have the pathfinder today but I think the correction is about 5.4% for me. I generally use the same pump to fuel up, but I've noticed that other pumps give different results. Not sure if its pump calibration or the slope of the pad I'm parked on... Probably a mix of both or more.
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Tank error? What's that?
The error % between what the scanguage says you burnt vs what you put back into the tank. K-factor, tank error, whatever you want to call it.
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I keep tabs on my economy with my scanguage. Adjusted for tank error and tire size.
02' Chilkoot Editon 3.5 Auto
91 City/Highway: 17.1-18.3 mpg
91 Highway only: 18.8-21.4 mpg under 120Km/h
91 Highway only: under 17 mpg over 130Km/h
Engine has ~71,000Km on it, drive-train 121,000Km.
My last engine ran on 89 all the time and got roughly the same mileage, though I noticed on occasion the spark was retarding slightly, maybe 2-4 degrees. A friend of mine had a 98 3.3L which he ran only 87 in. The first time he pulled a trailer with it the engine started to fall apart after 280Km. Says he traded it in less than an hour later on the 3/4T Cummins Dodge he's been driving since. Maybe related, maybe not.
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What was the actual height on the one in development, 3.5"?
Wouldn't the kit be 'stronger' if it was say, 1.5-2"? Thats all I really want on top of the OME. I havn't researched the subframe drop all that much, but I'm thinking there would be less leverage and stress on the mounting points and kit itself if it wasn't so huge. The steering extension was my biggest concern. Would it still be needed with a 1.5" drop?
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Thank you.
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Can somebody post a link of a technical manual showing those screws with the torque that they need. I have an appointment next week to get it done but the guy looked like he didn't new what I was talking about and got me a bit scared...
This is all I have... Only a break-down of what you need to take apart to get there... We are talking about part #2 (lower manifold) right, rather than the upper. I have a damaged VQ35DE sitting in a barn out of town that I've been meaning to strip down. When I do I'll post comments regarding the tightness of these things. Anyone need parts? I'm pulling injectors and sensors etc... everything else in the metal bin at work.
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A little off-topic, but since you started it.... What did you go with for the Magnaflow exhaust and how much did it set you back? I've broken my tailpipe at the elbow in front of the rear silencer... Probably looking at doing a cat-back soon.
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I'd recommend the QX4 or at least an SE, since you're getting more comfort and style for you money. I've got an 02' Chilkoot (XE) and which I spent the extra on an LE or SE even.... Also the seats in the XE suck, and you get no sunroof or fender flares.... Stay away from black! VQ is a great engine. I took a VG33 for a drive the other day and can't believe how gutless they are in comparison. Good luck! I paid $19.5K CAD for mine in 2005, so you should be able to get your target price. LSD if you can.
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Well, I for one am missing the messageboards at prado. I'm not sure if at a later time I'll be able to get my prado any longer, but I can only hope. I would have ordered one a while back, but this spring has hit my hard financially. Stupid rain!
Anyway, I use 1and1.com for hosting and it's very cheap. Domains are $4.99 a year or something. Screw register.com and the bunch. I'm interested in CAD stuff if you're completely done with prado. I plan on installing a ~2" subframe drop in the spring or winter.
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I had a chance to install the rear OME lift today. The springs installation was easy and quick, however the shocks didn't go so well. It turns out that Rocky-Road shipped me the wrong shocks. Google found me a match on the product number as being front stiff shocks for '02+ 4Runners. This is somewhat frustrating since I bought this lift almost 3 months ago and it's been sitting in my laundry room since then. Sales are declared final by RR after 60 days
The delivery consisted of 2 boxes (pairs) of springs and a box big enough for 2 struts, shocks and hardware. The invoice showed the kit, and has an expanded view of all the parts included, which ARE correct. Darn! I'll let you know what happens because this sounds seems to be a common RR complaint lately. Aside from all of this I'm further disappointed on the finish quality on some of the products. The yellow paint is chipped off the shocks and struts in several spots, however the springs look great. Aside from all of this the rear does sit a little higher than stock, while the ride remains basically the same with a fair amount of weight in the back. Thumbs up for the springs.PICS!
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44-46 on the road, 20 or so on the rocks.
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I guess I never replied to this once the engine was in, but the install went well and i'm running an identical VQ35DE i grabbed from a wrecker for $1600CAD. It's been running for about a month now with only the voltage regulator dying since then, so all is well. Damage was a bent #3 and #4 piston rod. The rods didn't hit the cylinder walls, but shortened the stroke enough that the counterweight on the crank piled into the side of a piston. Anyone want the engine?
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Things started getting really expensive, so I only bought the bearings, and upper/lower insulator/mount. My service manual doesn't show nearly the amount of pieces as there is. $232 for the bearings and pieces with rubber in them. I guess I'll be re-using the bumpers, seats, etc. No pre-assembly.
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Is the engine idling up to around 2000rpm when you're out of gear? I cleared the code on mine and the error hasn't come back once.
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I need to order some new strut mount assemblies, so I can assemble my OME kit without removing what I have now. I'll need the mount, insulator, bearing, etc... I'm having some troubles with the local dealer as far as service goes, so I'm thinking I'll try shopping elsewhere when I can.
I'm able to order some KYB mounts for $68CAD, free shipping. Includes bearing and insulator. Will be going on OME struts.
I also want to know if I should re-use the bound bumpers, or buy new ones... or if they're even needed. I imagine they help keep dust and grime out of the strut...
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I have the actual bumper and mounts for it, but not urathane body piece you're probably looking for. Free for what I have if you want it.
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What size tires are you running dkpath?
I'm soon thinking about buying some steel 15x8 wheels for my 02' Chilkoot, which came with narrower factory tires than most models. I havn't isntalled it yet, but I do have an OME lift. I'd like to clear 32" MT tires without rubbing. Which backspacing woudl you recommend and how does this effect the tire sticking out from under the fender? Currently the tires are sitting a fair bit inside the fender. I'd rather have them come out flush or stick out a little.
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Thanks for all the help! I had time to get an alternator installed today, and it has completely fixed the problem. Sadly, it appears my daytime running light module may be toasted. My PS lowbeam is out, while the daytime and highbeam still work. Last time this happened I think it cost about $400CAD to replace.
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I'm trying to decide between 3 options for my 2001: OME springs, shocks and struts; OME springs with KYB shocks and struts; or just new OEM parts. I don't really need the lift but I hate just passing up a golden chance to do a fun upgrade. What I'm mostly stuck on is figuring out how to get the best ride possible with a mild lift. Has anyone had any experience with the full OME 'comfort' set?
Havn't had time to install mine yet, but I'll let you know. OME struts aswell...
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Yes, I'm positive. The 3 lights glowing on the dash is the absolute tip-off (plus your SGII reading 19 volts!) The voltage regulator is built-in to the alternator, so you need to replace the alternator. Dude, seriously, don't operate your truck anymore! You're surely going to fry some electrical stuff in your truck if you keep running it!
Thanks for the tip. I'm off to buy one. Do you recommend Nissan genuine (Hitachi) or anything I can find from UAP/NAPA etc.
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Or, the IC voltage regulator assembly on the alternator? Is this a replaceable part or an entire alternator. Which do you think it is?
Ome Lift Installed *pics*
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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OME installed, HD front, medium rear, comfort shocks and OME struts. A couple of pics from today. I needed to use the winch to get out of that rut. Will take pics of the tire/strut clearance and yellow stuff when it's clean.
Forum wont let me upload images....