Jump to content

prginocx

Members
  • Posts

    92
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by prginocx

  1. Since I had to replace my rear hatch window, sometimes the wiper / washer won't function. Other times it works fine.

     

    Is there an inhibitor switch to prevent these devices from working if the window is open ? Where is it ?

  2. UPDATE:

    I'm on my way to visit relatives and last night in the hotel parking lot some tweakers broke the rear window. I guess they wanted my daughters CD collection which was in plain sight. (OOOOPS !!)

     

    What they got was my German Shorthaired Pointer going absolutely BERSERK !! One of the guys was bitten on his left hand, and the other guy had a really bad bloody scrape on the side of his head when the COPS wrestled him down at the curb.

     

    Poor pup was scared out of her mind. When she saw me she was soooo scared that I would be mad 'cause she bit someone. Instead she got steak for breakfast !! I will post a dog pic later.

     

    Merry Xmas and Happy New Year. NPORA rocks !!

  3. '95 5spd 4X4 SE 3.0L engine.

     

    Just driving along and all of the sudden the interior dome light starts to flutter off/on. Simultaneously, the warning red symbol on the dash follows it...the interior lights near the driver / passenger feet also keep time.

     

    Sometimes the rear dome light follows suit. I was thinking it was related to one of the 5 door switches, but I keep checking them when I'm parked and they work fine. It sure acts like a short in wiring, because it always happens when I hit a bump on the hwy. Or go over a speed bump near a school. Or go 4-wheeling on a gravel road.

     

    Where do I start to trouble shoot this problem. It seems if the lights are stuck on, and I park and slam the driver door, they usually all stay off...But that door switch seems to work fine.

     

    I did pull the fuse to stop the lights from going on, but I still see the red symbol flickering sometimes after a little bump. If it only happens going over a bump, it is going to be hard to duplicate !

     

    HELP !

  4. '95 Pathy 5spd 4X4 SE with 82k miles. AC, PB, PS, etc...

     

    I have to fill this up all the time. I've filled it up and parked in the garage over a mat, can't find any leak. Drive to work a couple times, and it is half full. I seems like I have a slow leak, but I can't find it...

     

    Where is the most likely spot ?

  5. I thought this was an average deal, but the fact that the water pump is included kinda puts it over the top. Even if I have to buy the front seal, seems to me it is still a good deal.

     

    Do you normally swap out the water pump during the timing belt job ? I assume 'cause you've already ripped the whole front open ?

  6. I found a local guy who does car repair and has these parts for sale:

     

    - Timing belt 13028-0B785

    - Timing belt tensioner 13070-42L00

    - Timing belt tensioner stud 08216-62510

    - Timing belt tensioner spring 13072-0B700

    - Cam seals (x2) 13042-0B001

    - Water Pump 21010-12G28

    - Thermostat 21200-V5015

    - Radiator Hose - Lower 21503-09G00

    - Belt - A/C 02117-90523

    - Belt - Alternator, Fan 02117-40023

    - Belt - Power Steering 11920-7B405

     

    He says they are genuine Nissan parts for a '94 Pathy timing belt replacement, and they would work for my '95. Is this what I need ? $200 seems like a sweet deal....

     

    Mine is a '95 pathy, 4X4, 3.0L, 5spd, AC, etc...

  7. Now you guys are making me feel like a redneck. Fix the brake line ? I did "fix" it....Little 300 mph duct tape and about 20 tiewraps.....

     

    ...and like I said 6-8 weeks before the light comes on...

     

     

     

    P.S. I did call Napa and they do have the rubber brake line...It is only about $25. The Local Nissan Dealership has made it abundantly clear that if you work on your Nissan yourself, Please do NOT come here for parts or help or any other reason.

  8. Well in terms of the brakes the rotor feels pretty smooth both sides, and I have plenty of pad thickness left. There is a tiny leak in the rubber/flex brake line going to that side. I guess I'll replace this first as a precaution. It takes about 6 weeks for the ABS light to come on....Then I add a cup or so of fluid.

  9. '95 Pathy, 5 spd, 4X4, PS, PB.

     

    I knew when I bought this truck it was wrecked on the RF fender. I had to re-wire some of the electrical stuff in addition to reworking the fender and wheel well covers. I bought this truck mainly 'cause the mileage is low (88k miles). It was badly out of alignment and it took two trips to the alignment shop to get it right. They had to add a ton of "shims".

     

    Anyway here is the problem. Last few months I've noticed a squealing / whining / screeching intermittent noise coming from the front of the vehicle. I believe it is related to the RF wheel because I can lessen or stop the noise temporarily by turning hard right (Shifts weight onto left wheels). Noise usually happens ONLY after driving for more than 20 minutes. It does sound a little like a fan belt, but DOES NOT follow the RPM, only the vehicle speed. Far worse above 25 mph. Seems to lessen around 50mph and above. Not affected by what gear I'm in...

     

    I'm also pretty sure that twice now when I've checked the front hub temperature with my hands, the Right one felt warmer than the left for sure. I'm guessing the wheel bearing is going south. Can anyone give me some pointers on troubleshooting this problem further ? What size of a project is replacing the bearings ? What else could it possibly be ? I have looked carefully under the front of the vehicle many times and I do not see any signs of any rods, bolts, or metal shafts wearing to make this noise. Help !!

  10. What kind of special tool is in this famous "tool kit" that would help me ? I'm thinking of one of those wire/spring/wound flexible extensions for the rubber mold socket. Good idea ?

     

    My other car had aluminum heads, I thought they were supposed to be done cold. What is the official word ?

  11. I did find the fuses for the Head lights. On the R-Fender well under a little plastic cover. They were also fine.

     

    The problem turned out to be the 5 into 4 converter which I got at a junkyard for 2 bucks.

     

    bought a new one at Uhual and installed it. All exterior lights lights working fine now. I'll have to check the interior ones when it is dark.

  12. I've been putting it off, because they are waaaaay down under that intake manifold.

     

    Is there any way to make this job easier ? extensions ? flex-couplers ? What do I have to take off ? Tell me this is easier than what I see already which caused me to move it down the priority list.

     

    '95 Pathy 3.0L V6 Manual. With AC.

  13. I DID check all the fuses in the layout under the dash just to the left of the steering column. Twice. Not one is blown. Of course not, that would be too easy.

     

    Where are these fuses under the hood ? I do see several fusible links right off the battery hot terminal, is that what you mean ?

  14. Hooked up the boat to go fishing yesterday, everything fine 'til I back into the water. Forgot to disconnect the trailer lights. After pulling out of the water I notice:

    No tail lights

    No instrument lights (Speedo / fuel / tach)

    No Heater control lights

    No ashtray light

    No front / rear parking lights.

     

    Still have:

    Interior lights.

    Headlights (Hi and lo beam)

    Turn signals front and rear

    Brake lights (rear)

    Backup Lights

     

     

    Didn't really have much time to examing the problem, but all the fuses are good, truck runs fine, drives fine. Little crazy to drive at night with no speedo or Tach light, but I made it home...

  15. Well after a little messing around, plus performing all the "Operational" tests recommended in my Mitchell On Demand manuals, I have found a tiny leak in the RF brake line. I'm talking tiny. With my sullen teenage son pressing down on the pedal (Truck running, there is always risk raising teens), tiny droplets are forming on the rubber hose going to the wheel cyl.

     

    I hate this dealership so I guess I'm off to the U-PullIT to try and find one of these hoses. Looks like they have custom fittings on the end. If not I'll cut the rubber way back and create my own hose....

    I guess I'll have to use hose material rated for fuel ? Else the brake fluid will eat it up over time ?

     

    P.S. I was only kidding about the fluid "evaporating"....I kinda figured there was a leak somewhere, albiet a really small one. Looks like I've used 3 cups of fluid in 2 months.

     

    Thanks again for all the help guys ! This forum is the greatest.

  16. Update...

    I looked in my records and I realized I had topped off the fluid level way back before Christmas, I just forgot about that. So maybe there is some way the fluid is "evaporating" out of the system. I never do see any fluid leaking on the floor of the garage, though. I'll bleed the system, and see if I can spot a leak in one of the hoses...

    Plus I'll start tracking how much brake fluid I add and when....see how fast it is leaking out...

  17. About 3 weeks ago it came on so I added a little fluid, although it didn't look low to me, both lights went off and stayed off.

     

    Now they both come on again intermittentlh when I'm driving and NOT using the brakes. They do stay on when I apply the brakes, and the brakes do seem to work normally. What makes these lights come on ?

     

    One does come on and off with the hand Parking brake, but what about the Anti_Lock brakes ?

  18. Bought this truck 6 weeks ago (Low mileage 68k miles) and just about every problem has been resolved. Since I've been to the junkyard several times, and looked at quite a few pathfinders, I'd like to get a key fob and program it for my truck.

     

    I do have the switch on the center console, and it does light up. LED on the dash is always on Red. Every pathy I've looked at had a horn mounted inside the engine compartment atop the left fender well, it it had an alarm system at all. So I'm thinking I have the standard factory alarm system that came new with the vehicle. What does this system do ? Will it also lock the doors ? I've always kept the switch on Disable (As opposed to the other two modes).

     

    What else do I need to verify before buying the remote ? I did find them for about $45 from http://www.courtesyparts.com/REMOTE

     

    There is a module plugged in under the drivers seat. Is it best to buy the remote and go for it programming wise, or should I check other things first ?

×
×
  • Create New...