95pathyguySD

I've had two instances where my truck wouldnt start and it was intermittent. Once about 5 years ago it was a wire that was above the radiator. A electrical specialist tracked it down on the dime of my mechanic who was stumped and had to send it out for a week. The second was when my key cylinder was going bad and I had to change my key cylinder in the column. I hope this helps.

Im back on the road finally. Thanks guys for all the advice. It was the Transmission cooler in the radiator leaking behind the bottom plastic. The radiator is okay but i just ended up replacing the whole unit. I have a additional trans cooler I will install in a few months as I just wanna test the new radiator and see if it functions as normal then will add the additional trans cooling at a later date.

Once in awhile they do pop up on ebay or others for sale.

I hope I caught it in time, but I have a major drip from the bottom of the radiator of transmission fluid dirty reddish pink oil. I think it's dirty because its rolling down and dripping off road grime. Radiator fluid looks clean from the cap.I checked the tranny fluid level and its clean looking as well. I will investigate more this weekend. I wont drive it till it's solved. I'm gonna guess and say my tranny lines have a leak or my tranny cooler in the radiator developed a crack and is leaking. So, was doing some research here and and found tranny coolers but... Hayden Automotive 514 High Performance Transmission Cooler B&M 70264 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler Hayden Automotive 679 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler B&M Model # 70268. 13,000 BTU B&M 70264: B&M SuperCooler Oil Coolers TRANSMISSION COOLER BY LONG MFG LPD4589 So decisions decisions. Probably will replace radiator as well since its most likely gonna have issues if the tranny is having issues. More to come.

adamzan, No harness in sight, but that's a great point. Thanks.

Thanks Terranovation. Thanks for the pointers if others choose to remove the lense or need to in a case of a damaged lense. My question is about the glue. What type of glue was used originally?

**How to install a new rear tail light harness with sockets.** Order a genuine Nissan part #26551-41G00, in this case for a 1995 Pathfinder XE . I avoided the lense disassembly to avoid any mishaps. It makes the process a little bit awkward but I really didnt want to have a problem with the lense if I could avoid it. Remove the light access cover to the light backing by pressing the tab and pulling cover away. Turn each plastic light socket counterclockwise to loosen, remove each bulb and set aside in a safe place. Take note that there's two light grey and one black socket. Take note that two bulbs are single filament and the brake light is the double filament and have offset tabs and only fit back a certain way. The white clip connector has a release on the underside. Firmly press it and it releases by pulling away from lense. There is a plastic slotted clip that holds part of the harness on the lense backing. This clip is not detachable. You will see a black sleeve which holds the wires together. It basically needs to be pried away carefully slightly to free the harness. With your finger pinch the sleeve to make the wire slim so it comes out of the slot. There is one screw that holds the white male connector to the lens. ***Pay attention to this screw as you have a chance to possibly lose it in the body panel. There is a black tab that aligns it, do not attempt to remove it, its just there to align and should come loose from it. Loosen the screw with a phillips and then with your fingers back it off the rest of the way, hold it securely and set aside safely. Remove and inspect your old part with the new part, make sure it looks similar in quality and construction. I found it easier to put bulb grease and the bulbs in while the harness is out for inspection. Use grease as directed on label. Replace the bulbs and correct sockets into the lense backing by turning clockwise into the lock position. Pay attention to the tabs as they only go in one way. Replace the wiring harness into the split tab by firmly pressing it back in, you might need to work at it some gently. Place the metal tab from the harness on the black plastic guide then secure the screw by starting it with your fingers then using the phillips to finish off. Connect the male and female white connector. Test the lights by turning on all the lights and testing all signals and brake and reverse functions. Have someone help you with testing if mirrors or surface dosent reflect lighting. Be Sure your brake lights have standing markers and bright brake when depressing your brake pedal. Replace the access cover to the light backing. Clean your area and secure your vehicle. Have a great day.

Thank you RF600 for your response. I looked at the bulb sockets and it was neglected previously (9 plus year ago by the po) so decided to order a new genuine harness to get a baseline. I get scared with wiring for some reason. I really need to take a class or youtube lessons or something.

Genuine nissan part 26551-41G00 is the part number for the wiring harness. Subtotal $24.06Tax $1.80 Shipping & Handling $9.72 Order Total:$35.58

Another thing I noticed is both brake lights works fine during the day, but when you switch on the headlights and the running lights then apply the brake the light will go out. I'm tempted to just replace the whole assembly but I really just wanna try to address the issue as both lens are in good condition.

Any recomendations on a quality brake socket manufacture?

And the problem is back.

SO, an interesting thing happened and I thought I would share here with you all. My Pathy had the 1157 Kioto bulbs for 9 years since I bought her used. A few months ago driver rear brake went out (park lights were fine) and was replaced with 1157 Sylvania LL bulbs from Autozone. Replaced it and it worked so didnt think anything of it. I didnt drive the Pathy much at night and then last night noticed the driver brake light out again. So I open the access door tonight and inspected the bulb. I didnt see anything out of the ordinary with the bulb. I kept the old Kioto bulb so I could find some more and noticed the contact points were slightly different. The Sylvania are rounded and the Kioto are flat. I interchanged the passenger Kioto bulb and it would worked and then back and then decided to change the good Kioto bulb in the passenger brake light with a Sylvania and replace the right bulb with the Sylvania. Now everything works. The only thing I could think is the contacts were not making correct contact with the bulbholder. I was gently flexing wired to see if there's a intermittent wire short and didnt find one. Everything seems to work both brake and park lights and while I was at it did a full walkaround and checked all the light functions with my helper. I'm happy again and legal on the road.

Thank you k9sar and adamzan.

Any help would be appreciated.

BTW I have a 1995 Path V6 XE. Thanks.

I don't know where my shroud bolts went to. Does anyone have size and dimensions for the shroud bolts or know where they sell them? It seems like its a junk yard / dealer item. So I went to Ecology and the only Pathfinder in the yard didn't have one. My luck, ha ha. It did have a nice roof rack though! but I found out that the screws that hold down everything needs to be drilled out, so next time. Secondly, does anyone know where I can find the torque spec for the fan to fan clutch and from the pulley to the clutch should be? Thank you in advance Jean

So Bob. Whats up with your Pathy??? Your deal sounds like mine.

Hey Guys!!! Happy Memorial Day Weekend. Thanks to all the Pathy NPORA VETS and all the VETS/MIA/POWS for protecting our freedoms. On a smaller note: What do you think about this? If the water pump leaked on the timing belt and lubed it to make it skip teeth. My bro and I were wondering about it over the past week or so and it dawned on us that it could have been a leaking water pump which leaked only a little. Here's the thing, the belt skipped teeth about the time I was coming off the freeway and stopped at a light. So it was at operating temp. on the freeway. Now because it went to the mechanics and sat over the weekend untouched it could have dried up and disappeared. Not to mention the mechanic looked at it and moved/ changed things around. So when we got to it all evidence was gone. So I’m thinking go back in and change out the water pump and thermostat. all drive belts minus the TB cause we just changed that. Then check compression just for the hell of it change all spark plugs and maybe wired too. And chagne out the Tranny coolers with Ford Ranger ones. Should I do any thing else? She's at @135,000 miles. And the problems is I dont wanna take it on the freeway and try the conditions again to see if theres a leak. I mean who have you heard of who has won the lottery twice. Once for me is enough. Have any of you guys heard of this happening to a TB, skipping cause of coolant leak from the pump? JV

She Lives!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My bro and I put everything back on. It was weird a lot of stuff was missing off my Pathy. First off there was no bolt securing the cap and rotor shaft. So I went to the junk yard and pulled one off a Maxima V6 engine that looked the same. I walked up to the pay counter and the lady laughed and said its okay take it. So I was happy, made my day. My bro helped me out and we pulled off the front end of the engine and replaced the belt. The marks aligned perfect without counting and all so I was amazed. I bought one of those Electronic Pathfinder Manual 1994-1995 CDs, it’s decent, but you got to study it a little. Well we cleaned everything and put it all back on this weekend. I was shocked when we turned the key and she ran. I was hiding behind the passenger door just as a precaution. She still has a slight tick on the passenger side but I think it’s the exhaust manifold problem. I’m not use to the engine anymore because I’ve been borrowing my moms extra car which is an older 89''300E class its hella quiet compared to our Pathys. But I’m happy that she’s back on the road and purring like a kat. I bought some Marvel Magic Mystery oil today and gave her some medicine. I filled her up with some nice gas and tomorrow I will give her a nice bath and some wax. My Pathy, not my GF. Okay boys I think I’m leaving some stuff out but the important part is she’s running Everything else is small now just some bolts here and there to replace and some new fluids and such and she’s gonna be fine. I think the CAR GODS are telling me to get on top of my cars service schedule. So after I do the sign of the Nissan and kiss the engine, I’m going to refer to my Nissan Electronic Service Manual and think/pray on it a little and plan out the next mods and such. I'm thinking Transmission cooler replacement. I saw a post about using a Ford Ranger transmission cooler somewhere here. Thanks to you guys and my big bro and the CAR GODS. JV San Diego, SO CAL

Damn you Pathy guys post fast. Okay give me some time to think about the posts and respond.

1995 Pathy XE Charcoal 134,000 Hi guys, Long time reader here. So I was coming home on the freeway with the window down and the sun was shining. I came off the freeway, waited at a light and then went to Albertsons to go buy four 20 lbs of ice. I parked and went in to buy the ice. I came out and she wouldn’t start. Like an idiot I turned her over a couple of times and she sounded like she wasn’t getting gas or something. So I checked the tank by rocking the rear with the tank cap open there was gas, being I gassed up the day before. My gauge read half tank. Okay so I was like WTF. So I have four 20 lbs bags of ice melting in the Pathy. I call up the buddy whose party I was going to and told him come get his darn ice. lol. and a call to AAA. Well I tow her to my mechanic and of course I run into him but it’s a Sunday so he says he will get on it on Monday or Tuesday because he's packed. Tuesday he called me up and told me hey, she has no spark. So I'm going to replace the whole Distributor and Spark igniter. I think that’s what the second one was. So he did it and of course being the original freak I am I asked for Nissan parts only. So @500 bucks later he calls me up and he sounds like he just saw a ghost. He tells me hey buddy, I hate to tell you this cause your one of my best customers but your engine is dead. It was about then a brick came out of my backside. lol He told me I have spark now. But the engine won’t start it just turns over and over and over. So he told me he checked compression and in 1 and 2 there was 5 lbs he told me it should be more like 95lbs. He said my engine is a zero tolerance engine???? Like a Honda. I was like okay, let me call you back. So after much discussion with my fist in the wall. I called him back and I asked him what he thought. He said you have 134,000 on the body and engine. I would probably replace the engine, its going to be like 2,500 - 3000 to do so. Well to make a long story even longer I was like okay F it all I’m going to pay you and donate the car. So I called up good ole AAA and had her towed to the house. I called up my bro who’s a mechanic and ask him to take a look at it. The first question he asked me after my story is did it make a really bad noise. I said nope. He said okay let me look at it. 2 weeks later my bro and I wrench her up and took off the radiator, fan and belts and check the timing belt. Guess what??? She skipped a lot of teeth, she didn’t break a belt, the teeth and everything looked fine. The white timing marks for the cams were so off my bro was like WTF, I think she skipped. SO this is were I am. He works 6 days and only has Sunday with me so maybe next Sunday. I’m thinking to just replace the belt realign the cams and all by the book. If you guys have any insight or words of wisdom hit me up. Otherwise I would tell everyone right now to go change your timing belts and buy the whole kit with all the little parts. LOL Tune in Next time for the results. JV San Diego, SO CAL.