mtpathy

I am leaning to the idler pulley at this point, sounds like a bad bearing. we shall see

So all of a suddent my 94 SEV6 is making a noise up front, kind of sounds like a bearing dying. could it be a fan clutch or something. it sure sounds like it is a pulley bearing going bad, sort of screaching and going round and round. I remember replacing the fan clutch on an 89 pathy a while back. is this maybe the same thing? What do you guys think, i have not really checked it out yet, just rolled in from work and heard it just now. I will get a long screwdriver and listen to my bearings tomorrow, but i was wondering about ideas. The truck is a 5 spd, with AC ,and has 320,000 miles, runs like a top. Thanks

sweet, i will ring them up. appreciate the info!

i need to get my exhaust worked on. wondering if anyone knows of a shop experienced on the pathy's manifolds around my area. the truck is a 94 se, and both sides are pretty noisy at this point. there are 275,000 miles and i dont know if it has ever been done before. the rest of the exhaust looks to be in pretty bad shape too. probably be needing to do the whole deal. so i just figured i would look for a shop that has done this, so maybe it wont cost so much dinero $$. Thanks

so what, is there a "negative side" to the coil i can attach a lead to, like an older style coil. one of the wires coming out of the back side electrical connector or something?

i have a digital multimeter that allows me to read rpm, but the directions say to hook the red lead to (-) side of the coil, and ground the black lead. i am not sure where the coil is or if i have a standard coil. i traced the wire from my distributor to a block like thing on the passenger side, but it dont look like a coil to me. so i am wondering where to hook my lines. it does not say anything about hooking to a spark plug.

i am trying to check my engine rpm, my tach has been out for a loong time. i am not sure how to get a reading on my meter with this truck. its a 94 se v6. Thanks

well she's a starter now. has'nt missed a beat. there is one thing to add though, the black and yellow wire from the ignition feeds the relay two times. when the black and yellow is cut at the ignition switch, it must be spliced into the relay at BOTH black and yellow connections at the interlock, or inhibitor relay behind the battery. there is a heavy black and yellow wire that goes into one connector, and a smaller gauge black and yellow at the other connector. this relay is on the fender well just behind the battery and is blue, and bigger, two connectors, than the others located in the same area and under the cover on the fender. thanks again guys, without the post from K9sar id be in the garage right now!

well, i am a little hesitant to declare victory but this seems to have eliminated the no start condition. i jumped a wire from the black/yellow at the ignition switch to the black/yellow at the relay and voila it started 15 times in a row. the only time it did not start was as soon as i disconnected the jumper wire. then i reconnected and pow starts every time. now i just have to wire it up permanently. k9sar YOU are the man! Thanks everyone else, thanks for the input and interest. i will post soon to make sure this was the problem. like i said i am hesitant to jump up and down yet, but it seems like a winner so far.

well that sure describes what i have been doing in stunning detail. i cant wait to get home from work now, oh snap its Valentines Day. Well the wife may not like it but ive got a date with the garage! thanks k9sar ill keep posting

i have been wondering about a bad wire in there somewhere, i think i will pull the starter and check the reading at the wire from relay to the starter, cant really get to it with the starter in, but after pulling it once it wont be that bad the second time. and the ignition switch, i am wondering how to determine its bad, and if replacing it means a new key and everything, ouch thats expensive too. thanks for the ideas, keep em coming

well the ignition switch seems to trigger the starter solenoid each time i turn the key, it just does not start every time. i am pretty sure i have the right starter, but it is a remanufacured unit and i am starting to suspect that i may have gotten one that has a dead spot in it. when the starter does fire it starts the truck perfectly.

man, i dont beleive it, i bought the new relay and the thing still dont want to start. i am stumped. if i hold the key in the start position and push in the clutch repeatedly it eventually starts. i here the click each time i push in the clutch. i am starting to get frustrated!

i sure hope its not the ignition, i tested it and it seemed to have power when it should, but not sure yet. i will try the relay first at any rate. thanks

thanks guys, when they tested the starter is was real slow, so the starter must not have been completley dead, but apparently close, so i have a new starter. the cables initially had some corrosion, but i cleaned that up and replaced the negative cable, which can never hurt bit didnt change any of my symptoms. fired right up this morning so maybe after messing withthe relay, removing replacing, and testing, it may work for a while. i will look for one of the relay anyway, cant hurt to swap it out.

so right now i think i have tested the clutch interlock relay to be bad, maybe known as the starter relay. anybody else had a problem with this relay, it is associated with the switch above the clutch pedal, and seems wired to the ignition switch as well. this relay is blue and 4 pin, located just to the rear of the battery on the passenger side fender wall. any idea what its really called or what one might cost. i am thinking it is a dealer part. thanks for any input

already did all that, and replaced the negative cable cuz it looked kind of bad, and ive got 12.6 volts at th ebattery

hey all, i have been able to get a lot of help here while posting only once or twice but now i am stumped! last monday my truck, 94 5 spd SE-V6 did not want to start. i checked the battery, and charging system and they seem fine. then i checked volts at the starter with the key in start position and had more than 12. i noticed the start, when it did start, was a really slow sluggish crank. i was able to get it to crank 60 - 70% of the time if i tapped the starter with a hammer so i figured the starter or solenoid was toast. i replaced the starter yesterday and she cranked right up, nice fast crank and buzzzz sound from the new starter. ran for a few minutes then turned it off and it would not start again. today it started a few times but would not start many more times. i am starting to suspect the ignition switch or the clutch start switch, the switch that allows it to start with the clutch in. i have held the key in the start position and pushed in the clutch repeatedly and it starts eventually. does this sound familiar to anyone, or make sense. i had the old starter tested at NAPA and it was bad, but not completely dead, it turned but real slow. what do you think

i tried to chase it, but it kinda goes up into the dash, and looks kind of ugly. works good hotwired, and nothing else seems to be not working, except my tach.

theres two brake switches, the one for the cruise on my truck has a grey wire and a blue wire with yellow stripe, neither has 12v (root of the problem). The other switch looks similar, but has power to one terminal. if i put 12v to the grey wire on the cruise switch my cruise works perfect. go figure. Jeff

Hey all, i have a 94 v6 se 5spd and my cruise dont work. the dash switch comes on and lights up, but it wont set. i have determined that the cancel switch above the brake pedal does not get power when the main switch is turned on. if i supply 12v to the switch the cruise works flawlessly. so my question, is there a cruise fuse or where does the cruise cancle switch get its power. there is a clutch cancel switch, above clutch pedal, but it has power. thanks jeff