gacruiser
-
Posts
45 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by gacruiser
-
-
Thanks guys for the suggestions, I sprayed it down with febreeze today and I'll see what results I get from that. What's funny is the smell got stronger after I scrubbed them, maybe the bacteria odors were starting to lift out, may need a couple of scrubings.
Febreeze is simply a masking chemical. As the previous poster said, get one of the enzyme odor killers (Nature's Miracle or Simple Solution are both good) from the pet store. If they'll kill the smell from a male cat's spray, they'll kill the mildew odor.
The secret is making sure the source of the smell has been thoroughly saturated with the enzyme.
-
No it's in 4wd. I think it was basically the fact that it's an open diff and the front wheel was "wedged" by the snow ridge. Oh well, if the only place I get stuck is IN my driveway I'm not going to complain...at least I would only have to walk 30 feet to keep from freezing! :-D
There's no way your 4wd is functioning if neither of your front tires is spinning....
-
New here ,been looking for answer for problem I have hope you guys/gals can help .Have 89 4wd v6 automatic .vehical in safe mode no check engine light that comes on ,no light comes on at the at/switch and no power for overdrive switch .
Everything else works good. thinking blew a fuse ,but cant find one blowin. I just dont know anymore.
Just fixed this same problem tonight on my '91 PFinder. I figured it had to be a relay, but none seemed to have a problem. No tach, no shift indicator lights, no voltmeter, no gas gauge, no temp gauge. Felt like I was starting off in 3rd gear (I was!).
In frustration, I checked the fusebox. Blown "ignition switch" fuse (upper right - 10amp). Dohhh!
-={Cruiser}=-
-
Back in the day Chevy (can I say that here) had a modulator on I believe it was the 2 speed powerglide. Never did know what it did, It was a diaphram in what looked like an oil sending unit except it had a vacum line on it. When the diphram cracked or split the vacum sucked ATF into the intake manifold. It caused a little smoke but it realy made you search all over to figure out where your ATF was going.
Don't know if pathfinders have such a thing or not.
Mindless trivia...............
Yep, had a Mercury Cougar with a leaking modulator valve. Years later, believe it or not, had the same thing happen on a 1979 RX7 with an auto. Looked like a diesel running down the road!
I don't believe the Pathy uses a modulator valve, though...
-
Here's the question - all of the switches around the steering column, such as the Cruise Control, Rear Wiper, Hazard and the rest, don't light up at night. This makes the task of finding the appropriae switch a little random.
Are these switches supposed to be lit? My rear defrost switch is backlit, but none of the others are. If they are how do I get to the lamps and change them?
Thanks!
Brad
Some will disagree with my observations, but no, the switches to either side of the steering column are not backlighted. I bought my '91 SE new and they were never lit. I thought something was wrong until I looked at 2 other new 'Finders on the lot at the time and theirs didn't light either. A small oversight on Nissan's part, I guess...
-
Why is the heater and temp slide control area not illuminated ? AC button is lit, but there doesn't seem to be a bulb for the heater controls. Can't really manipulate them in the dark ?
Of course they do have a tiny light for the ashtray, though....Big priority...
This is on a 95 pathy w/5spd. Am I missing something ?
I don't know about the 95 (the A/C and center console is slightly different), but just finished replacing bulbs in my 91 A/C control. There are 2 "wheat" bulbs (small, only available from Nissan) in my automatic climate control. These 2 bulbs light up the temp scale and the controls, including all the pushbuttons for vent control. The fan and temp slider knobs have LEDs in them and probably never burn out.
You have to remove the control itself and partially disassemble it to get to the bulbs. The factory service manual was sparse, but gave enough info to get to the bulbs. There were a total of 7 screws attaching the control to the dash that had to be removed to get the control out of the dash. That was after removing the console bezel (4 screws), the radio (4 screws), and the ashtray frame (2 screws). The radio and ashtray could have been left in the dash, but it was easier to unplug the wires from the back of the A/C control with them removed.
HTH,
GaCruiser
-
This one claims it is compatible with most rubbers and plasics, and comes in an optional aerosol which may mean you are able to apply it well enough without disassembly. If you back up and look at their entire selection, it seems like they have some nice waterproof bearing and chassis/drivetrain grease for those of you who submerge often. No, just 'cause it's grease doesn't mean its truely waterproof.
http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/watrcrft.htm
Word of advice, have everything ready and use gloves when applying stuff like this, I'm still trying to get the stuff I used off of a few wrenches and C clamps !
Did anyone actually install their polyu bushings with out lubricant ? Or did you just use moly or bearing grease ?
Use at your own risk, but I'd try it if I was creaking around every corner. GL, and let me know what you think.
B
Actually, after doing quite a bit of online research, and not wanting to pay the high price for the Energy Suspensions Formula 5 grease, I found several options for urethane bushing lube.
Most of the high-performance automotive crowd is using the Neo Synthetic Watercraft grease for lubing aftermarket urethane suspension bushings. It's main advantage is the use of teflon rather than aluminum for its anti-seize characteristics. It also has a wax base, which makes it waterproof and very sticky.
One suspension website likes to use Permatex Anti Seize (in a tube) instead of the above, but again, the Permatex uses an aluminum compound instead of teflon. Because the Neo product is specifically made for applications involving water contact (food processing equipment, boat trailers, etc), it might be a better product for our offroad suspensions.
-
The air assist would be cool too, but I was talking about replacing the springs and t-bars with air bags... Is that what you had in mind skrillaguerilla?
No, I wanted to keep the coils and use the airbags to level out my truck. The rear coils never lifted the truck up as much as the front UCA upgrade I made. That, coupled with the weight of the tire carrier makes the rear end sag giving my truck a "baja" stance. This gets even worse when I put the boat on the back and load it up with gear.
Here's an older picture from right after I installed my lift kit:
You can see the difference between the front and rear ride height.
This was the kit I was considering as long as I don't have to order it from AC. I was not sure if the bags will be tall enough at full pressure to make contact with the upper and lower spring seats to make a difference in ride height.
The only other thing that may be limiting the amount of rear suspension travel would be my stock Nissan adjustable shocks which I have no idea how far they can stretch before bottoming out...
BrSurfer Do you have aftermarket/JGC/Calmini rear coils? Or are you running stock height?
If you're still running the OEM adjustable shocks, my guess is that they don't have enough extension to allow your rear suspension to lift. Have you tried disconnecting them to see if the ride height increases?
BTW, I think Mr. Jim runs (or did run) airbags in his Finder.
-
Anyone have experience, good or bad, with any brand/model of handheld GPS units? I need to upgrade from a Garmin eTrex Legend to a unit with a better antenna. Am leaning towards the Garmin GPSMap 60C or GPSMap 76C (with colour screens to better view the Canadian topo maps I have for Garmins).
Some issues others have brought up:
Button placement: top vs bottom
Colour display not readable in bright light
Colour display using batteries up more quickly
(according to Garmin and independent reviews these last two are not a problem)
Reception
?????
Thanks,
Will
Well, I don't have one of those new-fangled color GPS units, but I do have an older Garmin GPSMap 76S. It's been a fantastic unit and I really like the ability to plug in an external antenna. Even with the internal antenna, it outperforms our office Etrex units by a large margin. I can even receive 2-3 satellites while sitting in my living room, on the middle floor of my house!
Because it's waterproof and floats, I use it all the time on my jetski. Last week on vacation, it worked great for navigating the Intercoastal Waterway and the tidal creeks around Beaufort, SC. We would have had a hard time navigating with maps alone....those tidal creeks all start looking the same after awhile. Of course, I had preloaded the topos for the area, which also shows the navigational markers, marinas, and boat ramps, as well as the coastal island/marsh detail.
If I have a complaint, it's because of the slow data transfer to and from the unit. The GPS manufacturers have taken a long time in moving away from the old, slow, serial interface. To load 20 megs of maps in my unit can take 35-45 minutes! I note that the new 76C(S) has a USB interface, which would be worth the extra money to me.
-
I have a 94 Pathfinder that came with a stock brush grill. It is attached to the frame.
Do you think it would be strong enough to support a winch? It will certainly need some custom fab to mount it.. but would it work ? ?
thanks
No. The strength of the factory brushguard is nowhere nearly strong enough for winch duty, even with reinforcement. Plus the fact yours appears bent. My first brushguard was bent in a minor accident. I replaced it with a TJM bullbar. No comparison WRT strength.
-
if i was going car, it'd be a 96 300z twin turbo, darn those things hold their value
I know where a '96 Black twin turbo has been sitting for the last 3 years. Has under 30K miles. The guy hasn't driven it since he bought his Chevy Trailblazer. Been trying to buy it, but he's out of his mind on price..... :furious:
-
On the towing note, does anybody else have mileage experiences while towing? I have a 5speed and was quite suprised at the mpg, as it only lost a minimal amount. Around town she drinks a bit, but on the highway she doesn't seem to care much what the load is. I also drove the same trip with the roof rack loaded with tall Rubbermaid storage containers full of camping gear, plus tents, etc. at 75mph and didn't notice much of a drop at all because of the drag. Maybe its a 5speed thang.
Yeah Pickles, I've towed quite a bit with my '91 auto Pathy. Normally, at 70-75 mph, I'll get 18.5-19 mpg. With a medium U-haul (5'x10'?) enclosed trailer loaded with about 2500 lbs of furniture, it will get 13-15 mpg, depending on hills. I used to have a large Pop-up trailer, weighed about 1200 lbs. Would get 15-16.5 mpg on the highway.
As an aside, I've tried dropping my highway speed to 60-65 mpg (no trailer), and have seen the mileage shoot up to 20.5-21.5 mpg on long trips. This is with stock 31-10.50 BFG AT KOs.
-
North of Atlanta, in Buford, GA. The older Pathys are getting few and far between around here.
-
-
Do yourself a favor and replace the Bosch with some Hella FreeForms or equivalent. You'll be glad you did. Factory replacements are nearly as much as the lights, although you might find some in a junkyard.
-
Grease the two front hood bumpers with some white lithium grease. You might also unscrew them slightly so they make better contact with the front of the hood.
I know, sounds crazy, but I've seen it eliminate "interior" dash squeaks on a number of 'Finders (including mine).
-
Sorry to say, Bamafinder, but you may have to sink a bit of cash into your finder just to straighten out the trans/engine problems. If you're loooking for a cheap lift, the IFS Nissans are not the way to go. By the time you rebuild your trans and do a body/suspension lift, you could easily sink $4K+ into it, and then you have to buy tires and wheels...
What kind of shape is the rest of the vehicle in? (body, paint, frame) If they're good, you might be better off trying to sell it and find a better base vehicle.
I see good condition 94-95 4x4 Pathfinders go for $4-5k around Atlanta.
-
Unless your voltmeter is attached directly to the battery, you have no way of knowing if there might be simply a voltage drop at your cigarette lighter plug (I'm assuming that's where you've got it connected).
That said, get a cheap VMM at Rat Shak (~$8-10) and connect it to your battery posts. When running engine with lights off, you should see 13.5-15V. If less than 12.8V, you probably have a dying alternator or voltage regulator. With engine off, you should see 12V+ across the terminals. If less than 12V, your battery's either not fully charged, or you have a dead cell.
-
As several others have suggested, check the Auxillary Air Controller (AAC). It's located at the rear of the engine on the driver's side, right behind the EGR valve. There's a 2-conductor plug on the top which you can remove and test resistance on. I had a similar problem on my '91 this weekend, which I diagnosed as the AAC. Resistance should be approx 10 ohms. Mine was over 70 ohms. Here's a link to the part: http://catalog.thepartsbin.com/?year=1990&...imageField.y=11
-
"He quoted the part #73872-01610."
Oooopsss! I just looked at the parts bag. The correct number is: 73872-01G10
-
Couldn't find my receipt, so I had the local Nissan parts counter look it up for me. I believe it's called a "Glass Protector"? He quoted the part #73872-01610. Locally, the gasket is $75. You might also try a couple of online resources:
https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mak,Nissan
http://www.nissanautobodypartstore.com/cgi...nder-parts.html
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...=49&catalogid=0
The latter site has the gasket for $43US.
I can't take credit for the above sites, the users on this board found them long before I came along.
HTH!
-
The dash light is indicative of a bad indicator switch. Mine has been intermittant in the past, but clears up when I wiggle the shift lever back and forth. I figure the switch contacts have gotten corroded or worn, although I haven't had any problems in the last year or so.
As one poster mentioned (above), it sounds like you have your dash switch set in the "power" mode, rather than in "auto". That will cause hard shifts and the exact symptoms you mention.
-
That sounds extremely high. I can't recall how much I paid, but it was probably half of what you were quoted (maybe $40US?). I'll see if I can find the receipt. Failing that, you can get an online quote at the following website:
-
My 91 Pathfinder has the factory sunroof, and the outer gasket is breaking up near the hinges, as well. I ordered a new gasket from Brown & Brown Nissan in Tempe, AZ, but haven't installed it yet. It appears that the new gasket slides over the edge of the glass, and I'm assuming it will have to be glued on. I'll be changing it out in the next few weeks, so will let you know how it goes.
lookin' for ideas on dog proofing rear door panels
in General Forums
Posted
I had one for my '91. Just get an adjustable, universal model. They work great. If I had it to do over again, I would get one made of tubular steel. These can be found in most pet stores, Walmart, or Cabelas for $50-70.