BrSurfer
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Posts posted by BrSurfer
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Well, unfortunatelly I'm back to Porto Alegre. We've run 3000 km and were near Comodoro Rivadavia (Argentina) when we've got problems with the AT. Looks like the AT oil pump. The back gear does not engaged anymore and there were a small slip when going forward from stopped position.
The other 2 pathfinders continued the trip and have yet arrived at Ushuaia, today they're going from Ushuaia to Puerto Natales (Torres del Paine).
Enviado de meu MZ608 usando o Tapatalk 2
Fernando, sorry to hear that, but at the same time I'm glad to see you got back safe.
Have you checked what happened with the transmission when you arrived in Buenos Aires?
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Yeah, I can see that happening, but doesn't that tick disappear once the engine is hot?
I’m not experience the same behavior here, and I’m getting pretty hot days now and the ticking is still there even with engine hot.
If the oil is too thick, the lifters tick... mine do it with 10-30 when the car's sat in freezing temps overnight.
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Interesting, I was checking the maintenance manual I have downloaded from US and it says 10w30. However, the manual I have from Nissan (Brazil version) says 15w-40 and this is what I used to have. Now, I’m moving from the south of Brazil to the North and the temperatures there range from 55 to over 104. The manual says in this conditions I should go with either 20w-40 or 20w-50. I’ve chosen 15w-50 to be also covered during eventual lower temperatures. Also, since the truck has already some good mileage a friend (Mechanic Engineer) said I should be good with this choice. Even now that is winter and I’m still on the south we are having 86+ here.
Why such thick oil? Sure, it's hot in Brazil, but the engine's cooling system will generally keep the average oil temperature around the same, thus eliminating any potential benefits of a thicker engine oil in terms of heat dissipation. A 5W-30, which is what is preferred in the service manual and likely your owner's manual, will certainly suffice and will warm up to operating temperature faster, and the oil pump won't work as hard to pump the oil. Even a 10W-30 or 10W-40 if 5W-30 is unavailable in your area would be a better choice.
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In my case I get the sound in whatever rpm. It doesn't matter if it is under load or not.
I may try the screwdriver trick suggested by TownCivilian later today...
Thanks guys.
I got that same noise. No idea where the hell it's coming from but I am pretty sure it is the injectors and they probably tick from age. It does not make the sound when you rev in neutral or when you drive around in low gears and at high rpms. It will only come in when the engine is moving at around 2000-3000 rpm in higher gears on the highway. Basically it only goes in under load. I know what a leaking manifold sounds like and it is definitely a different kind of ticking because even my camera will not pick it up it's just so high pitched. I can't pinpoint it with a stethoscope because it doesn't show up when the vehicle is not moving. No idea what it is. I never replaced the EGR valve or EGR valve gasket though and that's the last thing I would look at. So I just said screw it and drive around with the noise because it doesn't seem to affect anything. Every VG30E and VG33E I have heard for some reason develops this weird ticking sound under load over time. Of course this is not to be confused with the studs breaking, which is a different problem and sounds a little different too.
You can check for carbon deposits. If the manifold leaks you will see black carbon deposits. Other thing you can do is feel for any exhaust coming out around the gasket areas.
Good luck!
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Are you sure it isn't injector ticking? Use a long handled screwdriver to act as a stethoscope to listen and try to pinpoint the noise.
What oil & filter do you typically use?
The noise sounds more "metalic" than the injectors and it comes just from one side. I would think if it was injectors it would come from the middle near to the intake.
I'm using ELF 15-50w and I don't know which filter.
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So, a few weeks ago I decided to get rid of those drops of oil coming from the rear main seal and I also tried to fix some “tic tic tic” noise that was coming from the engine – mainly from the top part of it. I started replacing all the valve lifters and then since I had the transmission out (easy access to the lower part of the engine) I also replaced the crankshaft main bearings because when cleaning the oil pan I detected some very small play on them and I thought that could be the root cause of some of the noise…
Well, after all this effort I’m kind of disappointed cause I found out that I still can hear some “tic-tic-tic” sound coming from the left side of the engine. Granted, it got WAY better but I still can hear something when I'm next to a wall of with the hood opened. It definably sounds like coming just from the left top side - driver’s side.
I was wondering what could be wrong now and the only thing I can think of is that I re-used the exhaust manifold gasket because it was in very good shape and parts here where I live are not that easy to find. I wonder if this sound could be just a small leaking on this gasket (it's a metal one).
I REALLY appreciate if you guys can provide some input on what to look for. This is driving me crazy!!!
Is there a way to check the exhaust for leaking??
Thanks in advance.
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Looking for a quick response, I need new tires. Dont have enough for the lift yet. Can I get away with this size with a completely stock R50? Or will I need a 265/70/16?
265/75/16 = 31.6 inches tall
265/70/16 = 30.6 inches tall
Thanks
Those 265/75s will rub. I have those with 2'' of lift and I still had to cut a little bit of the plastic next to the front bumper to make them clear when turning.
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The 03 has drive by wire, not mechanical TB. Check that the accelerator pedal's return spring is installed properly. I'm not at home right now but will check for TSBs later.
Yeah, I was about to post: VQs are "wireless"
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Awesome!
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WOW, thats way more room than I have with 31s....I lifted my 96 3inches and was hoping to get 32s but didnt work, so I got 31s and still had to buy different wheels so they wouldnt hit the struts....
We can always move that lower part of the strut up a little, like this :
Right Mr Chuck? Welcome aboard!
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Looks good! Thanks for the info, I've never heard of people modifying the struts like that. It sounds like a good alternative to buying new coils for a suspension lift. Do you by chance have a pic of the strut assembly after the modification?
Here it is mate, these are the pictures of the strut modification:
You can see the original place were the coil base was siting. This modification also helps clear the tire in case you are using a wider measure.
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Clean install. Good job man!
That, my friend, is a good lookin pathy.
Very nice!
Thanks for the feedbacks guys!
Looks good! Thanks for the info, I've never heard of people modifying the struts like that. It sounds like a good alternative to buying new coils for a suspension lift. Do you by chance have a pic of the strut assembly after the modification?
Thanks! I will take some pictures to show you the strut set up, but as long as you know how to weld it should be pretty straight forward.
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I don’t usually post much here but I’m always reading and searching for information. I can’t tell you how many times the tips I got from npora help me fix things or just serve as inspiration to me.
Big thank you for all of you guys! Awesome community!
So I finally did something “extra” in my truck and I decided to share with you guys some of the steps and the final results.
About 6 weeks ago I discovered that one of the cylinders was sucking water from the cooling galleries so I had to take the path to a friend’s shop to open the upper part of the engine and do the heads.
Since the truck would be there for some weeks waiting till I imported all the parts from US I decided to take the plunge and finally do a SFD.
We had some experience on this since we have done the same in a friends truck. In his case the SFD was 3.2’’ since he raised his truck that much , but for my truck we decided to go with 2.4’’ SFD.
It was easiest to get the tubes in this measure (6x6 centimeters) and everything could be done faster and cheaper - without custom welding.
Here it is a picture of the kit and the install.
[/img]
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[/img]We also created a steering link bolt on kit using part of a steering link from Ford together with the pathfinder one. This way I can reverse back to the original (removing the SFD) if I want.
[/img]We ordered an aluminum strut spacer for the top of the struts, it is 3 centimeters high, so it is a little higher than the 1’’ you usually use there.
[/img]Here were I leave we have a local pathfinder club and many R50 have 1 to 1.5’’ inches of lift in the front and 2 to 3 ‘’ on the hear. To achieve this lift in the rear we swap the coils using custom ones made here. In the front end the struts are modified, the base of where the coil sits is re-welded 1 to 1.5 inches higher. Everybody is using this configuration for years here with no issues at all. So I did the same.
Summarizing, I lifted the truck about 2.5 inches on the back and 2.4 in the front with a SFD of 2.4 inches.
Before, in low rider style
[/img]Final result (I’ve just changed tires to 265x75 R16):
[/img]I’m sorry to mix things around regarding centimeters and inches…
I really don't know if I posted the pictures correctly, I hope it works. (FIXED!!)
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My Pathfinder is not lifted.
I don't think the lift is the issue, when you lift the rear end the stabilizer bar will rotate in its bushings to accommodate the added height, there will be slightly different forces induced in the bar but nothing wildly outside of stock geometry. I think it is caused by some other issue, perhaps a manufacturing defect..
That is really nice to know.
Thank you guys for all your feedbacks!
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It's a shame you are so far away, if you wanted mine you could have it for free.
Well, I will put some more effort on trying to find one here. But, at the end it may be easier to get one in US and pay for the shipping. Car parts here are too expensive.
Thanks!
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I had the exact same thing happen to mine, it broke right above the third member while my wife was pulling into the grocery store parking lot. When I removed it to investigate about 60-70 percent of the break was rusted, like it had been broken for quite some time and it finally gave out.
I called the dealer to ask about it and get pricing, the parts guy had never heard of the rear stabilizer bar breaking in half, but was ready to sell me a new one for $170.
I found one at a local salvage yard for $50, if the pathfinder wasn't my wife's daily driver I would have just left it off.
The stiffer aftermarket sway bar seems nice but at a high price with probably not a whole lot of gain in performance. I would wait and find a good used one at a salvage yard.
Yeah, it looks like this is not so unusual. I know 2 other guys here from Brazil Pathfinder Club that faced the same issue.
Is your truck lifted? I wonder what could be causing this...
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I would just leave it off . I thinkin a week or so you won't even notice. Mine has been off for over a year now and I like the flex more and it still feels fine on the street.
Unfortunately, for most of the time I'll be traveling on-road and I believe I will miss that safe ride once going to the mountains on fast roads.
So, I was thinking about putting a disconnect link option, but then I still need the sway bar.
Thanks for the feedback!
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The link takes us to a swaybar for a '01-'04 Pathfinder.
Yes I know, I was looking for a stiffer one and I figure this should fit just fine.
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Hi People,
So, the rear sway bar from my Pathfinder broke a week ago. I was not wheeling or anything, I figured it was when the truck flexed in my garage entrance – which is not much at all.
Anyway, I took it off and after looking at rupture point I could clearly see that it was about to broke for some time, the place was with 60% of the area covered by rust.
The truck has about 2 inches of lift on the rear and I haven’t extended the Sway bar links. So, do you think that not extending the links could be the cause of the rupture?
I’m riding without the bar since that and I was able to feel the difference immediately, so now I’m looking for a replacement. I have checked some junk yards but no luck so far . I’m in Brazil and Pathfinders are not very popular here.
When looking at some online shops on US I found this one : http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/2025-pathfinder-sway-bar.html
Does anyone know if this is good?? Should I just stick with a OEM one?
Thanks in Advance!
P.S. I have now a 1999.5 Pathfinder, my signature was outdated.
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I've just bought mine from StreetSideAuto.com, US$163.99 shipping include. Warn premium
It was the best price I found.
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Poly bushings would be a wise choice IMO (I just drove a pathy that had poly bushings front and rear, and let me tell you, what a difference!!)
Thanks for the tip!
I believe energy suspension should have all I need, right?
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Cool!
Thanks for all your replys folks.
Now I can spend that money in something else, still wondering what exactly...
I'm going to US next month and I need to figure out what would be the best investments (parts).
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Hi Guys,
I'm buying another pathfinder, this time a R50 99.5.
Off course, I will probably keep my beloved wd21. The more the better , right?
I don't know much about R50s.So, here it is my question: Do I need to install a aftermarket transmission cooler in it?
I did that on my wd21, but I'm not sure if that's a must for the r50s.
Thanks!
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I had this same problem some time ago. Same fix, it seems that those wires in the MAF connector are a little short.
R50 2.4 SFD
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Sorry for the Late answer. Yes, it's factory.