sw
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Posts posted by sw
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how bout a descent 2 arm puller
the one i bought got the pitman straight off, which had never been off before
buy cheap tools, what do you expect?
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i wouldnt touch snake racing stuff with a 10 foot pole
nasty take offs of other peoples designs & work
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you do realise the rd28 is a straight six
i would have laughed if someone told me they fitted an rd28 in a pathy engine bay.... ohwell
if an rd fits why not a td42?
so much more potential.
the rd doesnt have much before boost comes on, assuming it has a turbo fitted
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Got a diesel ram on 38 swampers stuck and a rubicon on 35 with a winch stucknaw we didnt air down the tires. They both thought they knew everything so didnt feel like the needed to
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how do you know the turbo is blowing oil?
black smoke from exhaust can be a few things
the turbo is a hitachi unit, not sure what model tho.
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Ando (vsicks) probably has his t-case lying around now, as he was fitting a 720 divorced case for the borg-warner 5 speed.
i shall see if i can get in contact with him, as he is in melbourne. he may sell you his t-case at a reasonable price.
i know he sold be the adapter plate for the t700 at a reasonable price.
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i did do some juggling of bell housings and transmissions between a td27 and a z24 pathy.
the z24 box fitted the td27 motor, once the td27 bellhousing and front plate (of the transmission, where the clutch folk goes on) were put on.
we had no dramas what so ever with transfer cases.
the terrano was 91
the pathy was 88
perhaps you have been sold something different than what youve expected. maybe a v6 tranny? cant see why the t-case would be different tho.
perhaps the particular trans and t-case in your car were from a newer terrano/pathy?? - previous owner??
good luck with another t-case...... what a hassle.
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googled td27 valve clearance
got one answer at 14 thou exhaust & inlet. funny, same as the td42.
prehaps give that a try
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you have a service manual??
for a gu patrol, with td42
I'm trying to find the valve clearance spec for my 1991 TD27. please can you help me?no, i only have the specs for a different engine in the family.
i might have a poke around and see if i can find anything.
I would not exceed the recommended cracking pressure out of consideration for the injector springs and possibly retarding the timing of commencment of injection.why, i have never ever once heard of adverse affects of both raising opening pressure & advancing timing? - (within reason, obviously)
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No wonder your steering system is illegal and no one will insure you!
it not a matter of not being able to get insurance. it does not need it, its not driven on public roads.
the original poster wanted pics of things he could do, this is just one option of a few. i just mention the disclaimer so some well meaning person doesnt end up the creek without a paddle.
if you have any lift and like to find out what the car is capable of, you will rapidly get sick of replacing stock center links, tie rods & idler arms. inevitably leading to trying to find out if there are other solutions.
when you dont live in the almighty
america, aftermarket support for pathfinders is very few and far between, generally leading to 'home brew' solutions.fyi: you do realise that calmini, hooha and others are just as illegal as a home brew solution (keeping in mind we are talking about steering here). the only difference is someone is marketing the product.
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keep in mind modifying steering parts is completely illegal & would render your insurance void if something was to happen.
theres two pics here of what i did, as it wont let me link from photobucket....
from the stock link i removed the two 'tie rod' style ends, removed the internal plastic bush then welded in some great big dirty bolts. cant remember if they were m14 or m16, one of the two. added some brass & steel washers & twin nuts for simplicity.
i did not do heaps of km's with this set up so i dont know how long the brass washers would last - but they are dirt cheap.
it seemed plenty strong enough, it did get a absolute monstering during a 4wd competion & loved it.
i do agree a bearing welded in would probably be better.
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morning all just wanted to do a post on the new board
sweeeeeet congrats jim on the software, lookn very very good
steve w - 88 2 door ...
ah what about the old purple & black forum...........
:D i remember reading thru great lists of stuff to find your comment & replies to it
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another vote for locker
i had a locker in the patrol before lift
the locker would make other 4wd's with big lift and big tyres look rather drab.
however, knowing how to use it gives the confidence to try much harder stuff, then you will be wanting the lift! i know i sure did.
the good thing about the airlocker is its selectable. so you still get to try stuff unlocked, which gives you the chance to become a better 4wder.
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i did the rear disc swap years back. it works.
i had an arb air locking diff at the time. it had a thrust block in the middle so i had to shim the axles out slightly. no big deal, local nissan place was able to get the shims.
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the QD32 was in the australian navara.
there were R50's released with a version of the td27. that maybe worth looking into as it was made to fit.
the zd30 would be another option. with a few key tweaks, they are not so bad
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no
td42's & td27's are indirect injection
there as tough as nails tho, unlike indirect crapota's
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even if you made em fit, the springs would be awefully stiff. a troll is alot heavier than a pathy
shock valving would be wrong aswell
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no sweat, sorry for miss understanding you
i can only speculate about a figure but i have, a few times, seen 1600/1650 odd psi quoted, so 115-ish bar
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heres a link to the layout of a td42 injector
so i would think a td27 injector is just a bit smaller
again i think it would be unwise to start playing with the pressures without a pressure tester
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you add shims inside the injector body.
but without an injector burst pressure tester i would not go adding shims willy nilly.
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sweet!! i like it
love the first picture on your page aswell
gtr, one very fine piece of machinery.
vr38dett
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I love Helicoils. They were actually invented for manufacturing to increase productivity and strength in aluminum. I can't remember where i read it, but it's claimed that if their installed properly they're stronger than the original threads. Something about being stainless, and dispersing the stress along the entire hole. I haven't used them for a head, but i would, that's my .02.
this is the conclusion i came to aswell
when i redid the treads for the front top arms. they feel way more solid then before the insert
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as far as i know, all d21's all came with mechanical fans.
electric fans have massively reduced output compared with mechanical fans, can be up to 1/10th the output.
you would also be surprised the difference the plastic shroud makes, but i know with a body lift they would have to be modified to work.
i would start by pulling the radiator out and just giving it a good clean inside & out, rinse out all the old coolant from the block and put new coolant in with a new genuine thermostat. then see if anything has changed.
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is there actually a problem??
theres many things that cause a cooling system to not operate as the manufacturer intended.
radiators are a balance between surface area & air flow thru.
having found this out the expensive way, a 'bigger' radiator doesn't always mean better cooling
INJECTION PUMP LEAKING
in Diesel Engine Discussion
Posted
a boss at a previous work place had the same thing. ran fine just developed a leak
him & his brother pulled the pump out and put some new seals it, seemed to stop the leak. i left that work place shortly after, so i dont know if it was a permanent fix or not
how handy are you?