Rick13
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Posts posted by Rick13
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Not trying to threadjack, but I had also seen these. I just thought they would be way too expensive:
And no, the picture in the link is NOT the actual photo of the product.
Here is what I believe the product looks like.
Any ways, just curious what people are thinking of doing now that I'll be on my 3rd set of struts. Honestly, these KYB rode better than my Rancho RSX struts, but they did NOT last as long. Then again, my wheeling has been changing from more expedition/exploring to more true wheeling, so maybe that's my problem.
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I had seen this recently while researching for other strut options (I seem to have blown yet another one) through the Australian Ebay - linky.
Was going to do some more research (email/call them) to make sure these are what I think they are (and actual extended strut), but thought I'd post up just cause it seemed to fit well under this topic.
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The 9000XL were really nice shocks when I ran them. I was surprised at how much the valve adjustment could make to the ride.
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It really looks great. I've actually said it to multiple people that I think 35's make a 2" AC + 4" SFD really look right.
OK, so here are my questions (sorry, just always thinking about my own options):
- Rim width and backspacing? Spacer size?
- Have you flexed yet? Rubbing out back?
- Much trimming up front?
- Much bump steer?
- What gears are you running? How's the acceleration?
Seriously, it looks awesome. Maybe it's my 2nd beer speaking here, but 35's are where its at!
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Holy poop stains!
Well, according to the "Defect Notice" my Pathy (manu'd in May 2001) isn't involved. So I guess I don't have to worry about explosive metal shards striking my passenger during an accident with airbag deployment? Always worries me when a recall is super close to what I own, but doesn't include it.
Think I'll swing by the local stealership and have them check it out.
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Yeah, it can be a PITA to get a 33" on a steelie up and down, but I've been doing it for years now. I use both hands to prop it up above the rear window and then step on my back bumper and heave it up and in.
I usually have quite a few things up on my roof basket (shovel, axe, jerry cans...) and I've really only noticed a 1-2 mpg difference at most...but I drive like a grandma so take it for what it's worth.
I fit a 30.5" tire in the stock location and it was tight, so I always thought a 31.5 (or so) would actually fit but make it tight. If I could fit my 33, I'd much rather keep it down low for COG reasons as stated above.-
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I didn't jump on this because I've been talking to a "local" shop about one of their XJ winch bumpers being modified (mounting points) to fit the R50. I may actually pay him a visit this summer because the cost looks to be much lower than Calmini, ARB, TAG...and I don't have to pay shipping.
Here's a looksie -
If this actually works out, I'll be sure to post up. I'll also talk to him about the potential to save the build specs in case there is interest outside of just me. We'll see though, still lots to do on my end, so no one hold there breath on this.
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Well, at first, I was like, "Welcome" (to the SFD world).
But then, I was thinking...you should NOT be having that type of problem with only a few inches of additional height/change in angles. If it were me, I might actually try a Advance Auto/Orielly CV just to see if the raxles (sp?) have something that's just plain unique to them. But don't do it just because I said that, I'm quite unique in my approach to stuff.
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I think you head south off of 152 and then through the town of Hollister. I've been there a couple times when I lived in Fresno.
Yeah, have fun and take some pic's please.
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So it isn't the manual hub. What are the odds that the SLIGHT difference between the driver and passenger side geometry is enough to cause the CV to have issues?
Here is what I have found:
When I am under the vehicle and I manually turn the CV axle on the passenger side there is a point in the rotation that is like a hump you have to get through before it is smooth again. When you go over the hump it wants to push the front differential towards the driver side. You can actually see the front diff move when this happens.
The vibration gets worse as the passenger wheel is unloaded while driving, and better when there is a passenger in the car and their weight is compressing the suspension.
Anyone have any guesses as to what is going on here?
Can you pull the NX4 strut spacer? If the problem is with the angles/geometry of the new axles, this might lessen the effect and narrow the search.
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May not be any help here what-so-ever, and I realize you said it was only at a specific RPM (not vehicle speed or amount of throttle) but these are my first thoughts for a shudder-like feeling while driving...
Tires/wheels in good balance?
Are your wheel bearings in good shape or had the outers repacked recently? (Or maybe you can at least make sure they are properly seated)
New ball joints look OK? And are all front suspension and steering components properly secured/torqued?
Motor mounts in good shape? -
This has been tried and it was found that the inner diameter of the WJ coil was slightly smaller than the pathfinder stock coil. So it could actually "seat" when under load but would unseat (shift up) when the load was lightened. That's why Shift220 came up with the coil seat adapter. I'm NOT saying it can't work, but just know that the pinned Sub Frame Drop thread has this topic in there if you want to see what was actually discussed/tried.
I think I posted my thought of grinding out just a minute portion of the inside of the lowest coil wrap, but I went with an adapter instead. I had concerns of heating the coil too much when grinding and possibly messing with the integrity of the spring itself. I also didn't like how the upper portion of the cut WJ coil doesn't sit flat/flush against the upper perch and didn't want to see that on my lower perch as well. Hey, just my
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I had gone to Hollister back when I lived in Fresno. Always interesting to see what vehicles are there and what obstacles they try.
Have fun, wish I could go!
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Back when I bought mine I swear the AC site said that these were heavy duty and intended for additional weight (aftermarket bumper and such). I think the ride will definitely be harsh when these springs are brand new, especially with nothing heavy to help put them into their "happy place".
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I've jacked from under the rear diff countless times...so I sure hope it's OK!
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Stoic, I honestly didn't grasp what was happening until I sat under my truck for 10 minutes. Even then, I remember thinking what I was doing felt backwards. My simple thought was that I wanted the valve to be "more open" to allow more fluid/pressure to be applied to the rear brakes and when my suspension was stock, this meant that the spring was stretched more.
So, from my admittedly weak understanding of this system, that meant more tension on the spring that pulls the arm that opens the valve.
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I think that's a really good post XPLORx4.
The spring bracket location was not usable after my last lift so I used some small gauge bailing wire and tried to simulate a heavy load for the LSV valve/stopper (because it felt like my front brakes were doing ALL the work, not just most of it).
I've adjusted it twice based on how it affected braking on snow/ice and think I have it fairly dialed in. Again, not very scientific method, I think XPLOR has it right.
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Very nice. I really like how it turned out.
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Thanks. Yeah, 12 hours of my life and $185 worth of steel, so I'm pretty happy.
All sections are 3/16" steel but are easily mounted and removed by one person. I am wondering if it will stiffen the feel and give some added support to the front suspension. Also curious about how the extra weight will affect my ride (hopefully soften it up front). I like the thought of a little more aerodynamics also (not sure how much, if at all, it would help that though).
Seriously, can't wait to test them out this summer.
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Well, spent another 2 hours getting some more work done. Brought them home and painted then mounted them.
I'll probably have to remove and take better photos some time, but was too excited after the paint dried so I threw them on quick like.
Belly Skid:
Front Skid:
Mid and Belly:
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I rotated my rack this week.
I just loosened the bolts on the rack brackets and the linkage, rotated the rack, then placed some dense rubber washers at the top bend of the bracket on the driver's side. I then just cranked the bolts down. On the driver's side I did use 01Silva's washer technique. It held REALLY well and turns like a dream again.
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Uhh rick u need to stop posting cause everytime i look at your rig i have to stop my self from printing out the blueprints and having a sfd made for my truck
Ha! Thanks a lot.
It has taken me 5 years to get it to this point and I'm still chugging along with mod's as I go.Ugh! DuraTracs are so damn expensive! What is the tread life on them anyway?
I got my 285/75/16 (about 32.8 inches) at Tread Depot in August 2010. They had a flat rate/deal on shipping so all 4 were about $860 delivered to my house (IIRC). I still had to get them mounted and balanced, but I call that a pretty good deal. Based on what I've seen in the past year, I don't think I'll get them for anything near that ever again. You'd think they could have held the price given how well they were selling.
I'm at about 30K miles and will probably sell them on CL when I reach 36K or so (cause it looks like they will still have at least 10-15K of useful tread at that point).
Good luck.
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Here's my
...Daily Driving All-Terrain:
- Yokohama Geolander AT/S
- All-around great everyday tire that seems to be able to handle a little bit of everything. I'm buying another set in March for my wife's SUV.
Wheeling All-Terrain:
- Goodyear DuraTrac
- I consider it a cross btw an AT and MT because the center section is AT-like, the outer lugs are quite large and well spaced apart (which clears mud/snow), and the whole thing has factory siping. It is the best tire I've ever had for what I like to do.
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I like you.
I like when I leave my computer logged in and my kids post something. Little snots.
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Extended length struts, possibly from AUS
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I've read about those also, but I believe that originally the modified Bilsteins (with an insert) had a part number that ended in "-mod". In fact, I think I originally read about that on PCOA quite a few years back.
I think the part I linked to is the basic strut without modifying/lengthening for a lift. No big deal, just always like to weigh all my options. I'll keep quiet now.