clkindred
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Posts posted by clkindred
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Welcome!
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They slide forward to pop out of the clips, at least the front ones do anyway. You still might break a few, the plastic is old and brittle and as always, it's designed around easy assembly at the factory, installed once and left alone forever.
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Link to V-8 engine swap and some more awesomeness.
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Hehe yea, out off all the engines one could choose from, Jeep is not the first to come to my mind. Maybe I'm just a purist, there is a guy who put a VH45 V-8 from an Infinity in his R50. I drool every time I think about it.
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I can't unlock the doors(drivers side) with neither the driver side master switch nor the remote. If it was one or the other I could narrow things down a bit but unfortunately it's neither.
When you say door lock solenoid that's the same as actuator right? The dome light works fine if I open the door manually, it will light up or if I'm in the car and flip the dome light switch it will go on.
I think the keyfob is fine since it will unlock the trunk, and the two passenger side doors on the left( if you're facing the car). I'm thinking it may be the wiring or both solenoids are out?
Ah ok, you can't unlock the door with the switch inside, just the key or the handle. So, no power lock on that door. Actuator might be a better term for the device, but it sounds like it's not working.
I think it's a tossup between wiring or the actuator being bad, could be either one and both are just as likely.
As far as the dome light issue, just worry about the locking/unlocking problem for now. I think when you have that problem solved, the dome light will start behaving normal again. I have a sneaking suspicion that it's function is tied into the power lock actuators as well as the door closed/open switch. So it's not coming on when you unlock the car with the keyfob because the actuators are not working.
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Dose the remote do anything at all?
I mean, from what you are saying it sounds like the remote works, but not everything responds to it, but other things do. That's very strange.
I would have said it might be the door lock solenoid, but if you can lock/unlock the door with the button inside then that's out. And the dome light raises further questions.
Now that I think about it, my best guess would be the module that the keyfob talks to, or perhaps the connections from this equipment to the lock solenoids and dome light.
I'm not quite sure how that's all laid out but it seems like your vehicle is not getting this "signal" to the devices which are fully functional.
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Nice work!
You don't have to illuminate your license plate?
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I tried resealing my sensor with some sensor safe RTV a while back, waste of time, it dose not leak from around the threads, it leaks right through the unit and out the connector. Just replace the sensor on your next oil change. Replacing it is not so hard, just figuring out how you have to contort your body and arm to get leverage to get it out takes a few tries.
On the subject of squeal, you can troubleshoot belts, pulleys, and devices like alternators, P/S pumps and AC comps by removing belts one by one, starting with the alternator belt, starting the engine and running it for a short time (it will run off the batt, and WITHOUT THE COOLANT PUMP TURNING) to see if the squeal is there or not. I had mine running with no belts at all, it turned out to be my water pump making the noise. With my engine off and no belt on the water pump/fan, I could spin the fan by hand, thus turning the WP and I could hear it squeak. So in my case, all my belts were fine.
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I just purchased a 1995 Pathfinder se with sport package for $500 , my new project, needs reverse band fixed ( no reverse) and a few things only one small rust hole in frame and a good clean up, 211,000 km. Should be a great suv to replace my 1998 pathfinder se
You are replacing a 98 pathy with a 95? I'm not saying you "downgraded" or anything, just wondering what happened to the 98?
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Welcome! And if you do turn it over to your son, he will know where to go for R50 info. HE BETTER TAKE CARE OF IT!
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Plus one internets you magnificent bastage.
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As far as drive-ability sure, but I thought even when the AC is off, every so often the compressor kicks on for a moment or two to keep things lubricated and prevent the compressor from seizing up. Yet another thing I hope someone can confirm because I don't know this for sure, or if a few weeks is enough to matter if it's true.
On the other hand, what about if the vehicle is left parked for a few weeks? That should not harm anything even though the AC is not kicking on.
Perhaps pull the fuse for the AC (I think there is one involved with the AC control wiring) so it can't try to come on with nothing turning it. But again, there is a chance all this is just a lucid acid trip of mine.
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Yea, the AC comp is the only thing that belt turns, so it is not necessary for the vehicle to drive. And yes, there is another belt in front of it that needs to come off in order to remove the AC belt.
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Hold on, what engine do you have?
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Here is the splash cover. Although at $141 you're better off getting a real skid plate that'll last.
Holy freakin @#%$! Wish I knew how much that thing cost before I ripped mine off and tossed it in the garbage, not that I wanted it anyway.
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If it breaks, I think you can just pull the AC belt off and run without it until you solve the problem. IIRC that belt dose not run anything else. Can anyone confirm? It's dark and I don't want to go outside and look right now.
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My 3.3 don't have that either.
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yeo 180 is scaring me i dont even want to drive my pathy anymore whats so bad with my maf sensor chillin there?
It's hard for me to see in the vid but it looks like you made a hole in the factory... eh, we'll call it the plastic accordion tube for the MAF. My personal concern would be air leaks, as well as the sensor not sitting in the engineered passage way anymore. What your MAF WAS mounted in was carefully engineered as far as shape and diameter in order to provide the correct velocity and turbulence, (or lack of) of the air flowing past the sensor, that's what I think anyway. Think of it like a venturi in a carburetor.
Also how well is the MAF mounted to your setup? Could it come off while wheeling on a washboard forest service road?
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So roughly 36 more miles per fill up. My tank takes 18 gal after light comes on. Fuel prices in my area put it at 5 maybe 6 bucks saved per fill, so... in about 36 fills the hubs have paid for themselves in fuel savings alone.
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So was there more grease/oil in the drum?
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Well, it looks like my 15 year old Pathy is starting to show some wear. I definitely have a fuel leak which looks like from just rusted lines. It drips about once every two seconds! Has anyone else had this issue before and does anyone anticipate about how much will it cost to fix???
The leak seems to be past the fuel filter and up past the rubber exhaust hanger to a group of 4 lines.
Are those rusty break lines behind that rubber hose? That would have me concerned too. In the mean time, I hope nobody stops by your rig in some parking lot and lights up a smoke!
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Well keep us posted if you do it. After I water cooled my computer I'm kinda obsessed with cooling EVERYTHING that produces and kind of heat.
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Thanks, I am right outside of Charlotte right now. You should check out my pics on PhotoBucket (link in profile). On the 16th of this month we will be moving back to the great state of Utah. Anyone with any info on the possible axle leak?
Is it break fluid?
How's you slave cylinder look?
Fan delete / electric fan
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I thought about doing this also, but only to lessen the vibrations the clutch fan puts on the water pump. Perhaps the water pump will last longer.