Wood

Yes it does....so I guess you can get out your hoola-hoops and pom-poms and do your little happy-homo-dance ....after that, you can celebrate over some Shirley Temples, watch re-runs of Flipper and maybe look into the remedial version of Hooked-on-Phonics to help you out with that grade 3 grammar thing you seem to be struggling with.....best of luck!

As an FYI, the motor is sacked. Selling the rig as is for whatever I can get for it. Last Nissan product I will EVER own.

Haven't looked at it since last week. Will be getting to it sometime this weekend and I'll post what I find out.....hoping it's just the valve cover/PCV. Who needs 6000+ rpm in an 4x4, off road vehicle?

"Better in quality?".....did I say that? Read my post. Regardless, chew on this....unfortunately, I will not be able to sell my 7 year old 'quality' Nissan with 70K miles for as much $$$ as I sold my 7 year old 2 door, rode hard - put away wet, Cherokee with 85K miles. Demand will motivate market value more so than reported reliability records. People want Jeeps around here, Nissans not so much. And as far as quality goes, that 4.0 litre inline 6 has it ALL OVER the 3.5 techno-crap Nissan mill. Simple, reliable and fuel efficient......can't say that about the 3.5.......and if you're motor sucks, all else is a moot point.

Thanks for your response and it all makes good sense. I do ALL maintenance on my vehicles and have religiously used high quality mineral oils since purchasing the rig. Changes were every 3K miles using 5W30 in winter and 10W30 in the warmer months. Fuel has been nothing but 91 octane unless it was not available when/where I needed fuel. I replaced the MAF sensor recently as well as one O2 sensor(bank 1, sensor 2) and VTC cam pos sensor. I know proper vehicle maintenance/repairs and have owned a few of them. Engine technology means nothing to me if it is not reliable. There are many other 'high tech' motors from other manufacturers that are reliable. My trucks are used as trucks, not shopping mall parking lot rigs so they need to be tough. The cost of fuel has nothing to do with my motivation to sell this pile. I recently purchased a 2006 Toyota TRD Tacoma DC which will undoubtedly be a better vehicle for me in every way. The Nissan is gone as soon as it sale-ready...if it can be repaired cost-effectively. Just thinking about the issues I have recently had with that truck gags me and it is doubtful I will own another Nissan product anytime soon.

What kind of maintenance is required to keep a motor from sucking in butterfly valve screws and having excessive oil consumption from POOR engineering???? CLEARLY obvious that these trucks suffer from some serious design flaws.....look into it grasshopper. If you understand mechanics, you will understand where these rigs fall desperately short of what is considered acceptable. The kind of maintenance required to avoid what I am going through should not even be a consideration on a vehicle that is 7 years old with 70K miles on it....especially one which is SUPPOSED to be a high quality import. 'Better' you say? I have owned two Jeep Cherokee Sports (1993, 1998) that I drove the bag off and had better luck with than this Nissan pile. I agree that most if not all similar domestic trucks are of lesser quality but MY Pathfinder is crap and I can't wait until the day I no longer have to look at it in my driveway. Best of luck with yours.

Also, wouldn't it be possible for the oil to be sucked in through the PCV valve and once there is enough oil built up under the valve cover, I would think it would start to be drawn into the engine through the intake valves resulting in the excessive oil consumption(I've read something about a 'siphon' effect from this). This could also expalin the low end running quality issues as oil mixed with gas obviously isn't going to burn very efficiently resulting in stumbling and erratic idle/low end rpm. I wouldn't think blowby would result in such a dramatic increase in oil usage unless the rings were completely shot.

I plan on starting with the comp test. Hopefully the motor is not screwed.....used 2001 Pathfinders with scrapped motors don't fetch much $$$.

Thanks for the response. Where is the PCV valve located exactly? Sounds like that may have been the start of my issues. Not sure if it has led to engine damage or just causing some running quality issues that hopefully can be fixed by replacing the required parts (PCV and valve cover). Thanks.

OK, here we go again with this pile of junk ('01 SE 4x4 3.5). Finally got all the codes cleared up by replacing sensors which I thought was the culprit for my truck's running quality issues. No deal. Ran the truck all day and it sputters and has no power idle/off idle. You have to rev the motor to get it to go (it is a 5 sp manual). I also noticed it was smoking when I started it up and the oil light flickered so I checked the oil level and nothing on the dipstick. I had checked it about a month ago and it was down so I topped it up. Not sure how much oil it takes to drop off the stick but that is A LOT in less than 1000 miles since being topped up. I recently bought a new Tacoma and need to get some $$$ out of this pile to help pay for the new truck. I'm really hoping the motor isn't sacked. Any ideas to help diagnose the extent of damage is appreciated. The truck is not throwing any codes, not even anything 'pending'.

No, I got one on Ebay. Thanks for the offer.

Thanks for the offer but I managed to find a strut assembly locally. Thanks anyway.

Somebody's gotta have a coil spring they want to get rid of?????

1145 is driver's side VTC/solenoid. 1140 is passenger side. I just went through this. If you replace the sensor and are still pulling the same code, you will need to clean or replace your cam solenoid. Assuming this is a 3.5? Not sure if the VQ33 uses the same codes/sensors.

Well, in the process of trying to get my 2001 SE Pathy sale-worthy (can't wait to dump this POS), I am in need of another sensor (shocking, really) and need help sourcing this part. I've got a VTC sensor that has crapped out and looking to source an OEM quality replacement for non-OEM prices. Any help appreciated....thanks.

Manual 3.5 SE

Hoping some of you can help me source a couple parts for my 2001 SE 4x4. I am selling the rig and need to find a center cap for one of my rims and also need an OEM front coil spring, new or used. Thanks very much.

Will do. OK, the more I look into this the more I think I should have bought an OEM spring from the junkyard and called it a day. What is this about camber bolts? What else do I need to do to this rig to ensure I don't fubar my drivetrain/tires/etc? I have manual hubs coming as well...anything else you guys can tell me that I will need to do....I want to do it once and do it right. Thanks!!!! Also, I am running LT245/75/16 tires now and they are like new...will my rig look like a man with Arnold's arms and Peewee's legs? Hope not.....

I just bought a set on Ebay for $100.00 for all four coils...how can I go wrong for a hundred bucks??? They specify a 2" lift (35-40 mm). I hope they work out ok. I also have a set of KYB GR-2s and wondering if they are ok to use with a lift or will they be too short? Thanks.

Hoping some of you can offer up some advice. I have a busted front coil on my '01 SE and am going to replace all 4. I already have a set of 4 KYB shocks/struts and wondering what would be my best option. I would like to go with something heavier and would like 1.5"-2" of lift. Was thinking OME or Ironman. All thoughts/opinions appreciated!

Logged over 180K miles on two different Cherokee Sports('93 and '98). Had decent luck as far as reliability goes(over a 6 year period) and they will run circles around my Pathfinder when the pavement ends. More clearance, lighter, better approach/departure angles, shorter wheelbase, etc. Would I trade the Pathfinder for another Jeep???? Not if the future of the human race depended on it.

I posted this over on 4x4 parts and thougt I'd post it here as well. Looking for some insight into a couple of concerns I have with my 2001 SE(45K miles). I've been noticing when I let the clutch out that it does not release smoothly. If I keep the rpms up it's not bad but if I let the clutch out slowly and keep the r's below 1500 or so the clutch is a little jerky(stutters). Also, the tranny shifts fine but if I'm rolling along, push the clutch in and very slowly shift into gear the transmission will grind. This is especially noticeable going into third. I've only had the truck for a couple months so I don't know the history. I haven't checked the fluid. Not sure if the clutch just needs to be adjusted or what. This is making me a little nervous and I know squat about clutches and transmissions simply because I've never had an issue with any previous truck I've owned. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Got the truck, love it! Now for tires. Haven't decided on brand/model but going with an LT all-terrain type and not sure which size to go with. Options are LT245/75/16, LT255/70/16 or LT265/70/16. Would like to go as big as possible without sacrificing too much fuel mileage and don't want any clearance issues. Can't seem to get a straight answer. Thanks.