Harbinger
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Posts posted by Harbinger
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For the 1995's I think this is a common spot for them to rot out. This is the worst of it, but think it's also the extent of it. It didn't look like that until I struck it with a hammer a few times. Haven't found anywhere else yet.
Frame replacement isn't an option for me - don't have the money, space, or time. Just want to get this spot patched and then I'm going to sell it. Figure someone will give me $1000-1500 to have a beater for hunting/snowboarding/desert running. The junkyard is only offering $250, so screw that.
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Howdy all. I have some of the dreaded rot on the passenger side, over the rear axle. I've searched but old threads have no photos, so I'm sorta lost.
I'm curious how others have repaired this, now that the kits are no longer being offered. I have a welder and can use it well enough to not confuse my welds with bird crap.
1) Is 1/4" plate too thick for this application? I figure 11ga or 1/8" would match the frame material better, but I already have some 1/4" flat bar.
2) Do I cut out the rotted section and weld the new piece to clean metal on the outside of the frame? Or is it better to place a repair piece inside the frame, after removing the rot?
3) I have a myriad of different square tube pieces - if I can find one that roughly fits the interior of the frame, would sleeving it be better? Hesitant to sleeve the outside due to the upper spring mount and the metal lines that bolt to the top of the frame. All the bolts on my frame are rusted in place and aren't easy to remove or replace.
4) Am I overthinking this and should just clean it up and slap a patch on the outside?
Thanks all.
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Parked her at my brother's house until I get time to clean the frame rails and weld in patches. Figure I might have time around Turkey day break.
Bought a 2018 Subaru in the meantime.
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Must be my slides then. I'll have to take a closer look.
Yep - slides aren't sliding. Looking at the FSM there are two slide pins both with bolt heads - but on my calipers one of the bolts has a flat cap over it that I can't tell if it's pressed or otherwise secured in.
*sigh* I'll put in an order for two new calipers.
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So I haven't had this happen before. My rear disc brakes both are refusing to go back over the new rotors with new pads in the calipers. Both calipers have the piston pushed in far enough that the pad is sitting below the bracket. The outside (non-piston) pad hits the rotor and then the other side of the rotor interferes with the caliper bracket.
Both calipers are pretty corroded, but I cleaned up the faces that meet up against the rotor and it's still way too tight.
Suggestions?
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2 minutes ago, AaronHorrocks said:
Why would you wait? Is it because you want a more permanent installation?
I specifically went with "off the shelf" products that are self-contained, so I can take them off/out, and use them anywhere else, or on another vehicle if needed.
I made brackets that hold the solar panel to the roof rack. So (other than making the brackets themselves), there's no drilling, no cutting, no glue... It's all modular and can be mounted and dismounted by hand.
Here's a quick video:
It was a joke, obviously a poor one.
Was saying I'd wait until I have a van to live in before worrying about solar. I don't trust my pathfinder outside of city limits so solar would be overkill when I'd be better served by other things.
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I'll give that a shot. Wasn't sure I'd have enough clearance to get the panel off while the door is shut - but will pull the seat and see what happens.
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I've been curious about doing a solar roof install - but figure it can wait until I can afford my first
homevan. -
Hello NPORA friends and family!
So it's been awhile since I posted about anything, so I made sure I had something unique to come here with.
Broke my passenger side mirror awhile back. Finally replaced it and had the door panel off so I could reconnect the powered/heated mirror. During this I looked toward the lock cylinder and discovered why it was just rotating. The rod connecting it had become disconnected, and one of the pieces it was connected too had come loose, and turned out to be what was blocking my window from lowering.
I removed the part that was blocking the window and reassembled everything, and proudly shut the door. This is when I realized that I must have knocked the rod attaching to the door latch loose. I now can't open my passenger door at all.
So - how does one open a door that has the latch rod disconnected?
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7 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:
How have I never noticed you on this forum yet? Treasure Valley NPORA members are few and far between. I'm out closer to Nampa/Caldwell now, but lived most my life in Boise.
And ya, lots of essential businesses staying open, though colleges and schools all shut down. Golf course that I work at part time is open, and the grocery stores are way too full. We also got hit with an earthquake about 70-100 miles north of Boise/Meridian-6.5. Talk about doomsday haha, it was supposedly felt in 7 States from Montana to Washington.
Ha! I've been a member for a long time, but tend to only pop on here every few years it seems.
Yep, that earthquake was something else. First one I've ever experienced. Seemed very fitting as an ending to March. Just hoping it isn't a precursor to Yellowstone exploding in April.
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Boise Idaho reporting in. Shelter in place order was only issued last week. I'd say about 3/4 of the population here are still considered "essential", just from the traffic alone.
Up to 300ish cases in my county. I'm still at work. Have an engineering internship at a manufacturer of agricultural semi trailers.
So outside of all my classes going to online only, and my gym being closed for nearly a month now, life really isn't much different. -
Despite being diligent with my wire running during a stereo install....I get static in the radio every time my blinkers lights up.
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When I did my swap, my check engine light was a result of a bad O2 sensor. Went away after I got a new exhaust put on after doing the swap. It ran fine on the AT ECU, but I'm using an MT ECU for the higher cold idle.
Everyone else has had a pilot bearing in the crank, except me oddly enough. I've also got two different markings under the hood for timing belt swaps, with just about 200k on the truck...so my truck might not be the best to compare too.
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Hi all,
My original key died on me a while back. Been using my spare, but never made a backup for the new, only key. Tried to get some copies made today, but the two places I went both were out of the #38 key blank needed. Seems like it is being phased out?
What has everyone else done to replace their keys?
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Both? I love my rig, and while in school and working part time, I'm also very very poor.
If I had the means I'd probably be in a newer truck, with the wd-21 being the designated mountain rig. That day is still a few years out though.
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Nice work. I like how you ran the shelves around the corner posts, as opposed to putting them inside the posts.
I'll build a cart some day, once I can afford a welder.
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I relocated my oil filter relocation last night. Wasn't happy with the previous location next to the Power steering reservoir. Always had to pull the battery to avoid getting oil everywhere.
Used two pieces of 1/4" aluminum to make a sandwich mount for the tranny xmember. Ran the hoses through a heat shield tube, so hopefully will minimize the heat pickup from the headers.
Had to extend the lines about a foot. Used some brass splicers and double clamped every connection. No leaks/issues yet, but I'm looking for a decent hydraulic shop to make me some new lines.
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I changed my oil today. Also replaced the fuel filler hose and associated vent tube. Never adjusted them after my two inch body lift, and was starting to get a gas smell around the back of the truck. Filled up afterward and so far so good!
The spectra replacement filler hose was actually longer than my stock one.
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Haha Thanks! I'm going to find a way to get one wired in. I'd really like to have it since I off road quite a bit, not to mention if I can have it I want it in there lol
Well it shouldn't be to hard if you study the FSM a bit. I know there is a spot for a switch/button on the clutch pedal bracket. IIRC, the clutch interlock relay is in the same spot as the Park Neutral relay in the Automatics. I think the clutch start cancel buttons replaced the auto's power button on the dash.
If you jumper the existing park neutral relay, you can start the truck, and start in gear. I've wanted to convert mine, but at the moment, it hasn't seemed important enough for my limited time.
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I haven't been hanging around lately, but I have done a auto to 5 speed swap. I haven't seen one person wire up the clutch interlock when doing their swaps, so, good luck?
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The hardest part For me was getting the pedal assembly installed without removing the whole dashboard.
Truth. I haven't seen it done without removing the steering column.
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The pan has to come off to get sealed.
The book may referee removing the RMS housing to remove the RMS SEAL... THIS IS WRONG, removing and re-installing the housing almost always leads to a future pan leak. Leave the housing in place and use a seal puller.
I did not learn this one from personal experience but rather from a friend who has built hundreds of Nissan engines. I took his advice rather than learning the hard way because oil pans are PITA on a 4x4...
Man, where was this tidbit last year, around this time? I pulled the housing to replace my RMS during my transmission swap. I've had an oil leak ever since.
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If it blows again, you'll want to find what is shorting it out.
When I had this issue, it was one of the switches on the transfer case - one of the wires broke it's solder joint and was grounding out against the transfer case.
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If it does end up being the soft line - they are still available from the dealer. PM or Call Alkorail for that.
Also - a forum memember found a maker for stainless steel "soft" lines for our clutches - might be worth a look. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40310-braided-stainless-clutch-line/?do=findComment&comment=756017
WD21 Frame Rust Repair Q's.
in General Forums
Posted · Edited by Harbinger
Update
Yeah that photo was after a few good whacks with a 4lb/1.8kg hammer. I'll cut out an area outside of the broken spots to make sure I contain it.
Still trying to find a decent piece of scrap metal to plate it with. I work for a manufacturing company and have been checking the scrap bins, but all the pieces so far are too small or too thin. We also use mostly stainless, so that might be a decent option if I can find some 11ga. Drew up a fishplate style patch in inventor, and sent it to a few metal companies in town looking for some quotes.
Edit - Found a piece of 1/8" 304 Stainless that is big enough to work. Just wondering if combining it with whatever mild steel our frames are made out of is a good idea. Hobart sells a 309L wire they say is good for joining the two, so not sure if that's the way to go or if I should hold out for some carbon steel.