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mws
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Posts posted by mws
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Oh, and to answer the original question. Yes, exhaust leaks, when significant enough, will upset readings.
Although after the Y is best if the system uses a single sensor, in your case, sampling from only one bank should be "less bad" than sampling where you know it is iffy. I would try it!
And the further upstream you go, the faster it will get up to temp. That is always good as it lets the FI go into closed loop mode asap.
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Air flow differences because of differences in port lengths and geometry. It's impossible to get them identical. The longer the port, the more fuel settles out/condenses from atomized state to to tiny droplets - which do not burn as quickly or completely. Every turn or bump in a port also leads to velocity/pressure variations as well. All contribute to less atomization.
The differences in combustion efficiency from cylinder to cylinder in a carb'd or TBI's engine are shockingly big.
That is why engineers have been striving to get the injectors closer and closer to the back of the valves. Ideally, we would want them injecting directly into the combustion chamber.
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I'd try the Seafoam first. Follow instructions on can.
ATF is effectively a 7.5 wt hydraulic oil, so not sure why it would work so well, but I have heard many sing praises so it may be worth trying as well.
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The ones I've been getting were all out of V8's. Where'd you see anyone recommending the I6 coils?
Ah well. As long as they're 9 coils tall and have a wire thickness of more than .52-.54", you should be OK. They used a lot of different springs in those damn Jeeps.
Umm, that'd be me, Aaron. The key point I always stress MEASURING the diameter first.
I tried a set and really liked the results! A bit more than an inch of lift and EXCELLENT ride quality - only a bit stiffer than stock. Those combined with my AirLift bags is one heck of a sweet set up. Just enough lift, great ride, and then add a squirt of air and I can carry really heavy loads.
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'89? What you see going into the cat is probably the air tube. The O2 sensor should be a few inches before the cat, with wires running to it.
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Your symptoms are indicating an ignition problem.
The injectors are firing, hence the gas smell. The running rough afterwords would be due to some of the plugs being wet from the flooding.
Definitely check the ignition switch.
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You did read this thread, right?
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18&st=0
Cheapest will always be the u-pull salvage yards....
Based on all of the experiments I've done, seen, and heard about, I think the.52" diameter coils from the front of a relatively stripped Grand Cherokee with the inline 6 will fit you well. Bring your calipers because Jeep used a LOT of different coils! The .54" will give you over an inch of lift (closer to 2", depending on how sagged they are) yet still give a close to stock ride.
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I think they are referring to the main water temperature sensor. Not the one for the temp gage/idiot light, but the one for the ECU to know engine coolant temp. And I have a glimmer of memory that it is under the intake manifold.
Still, that should be a 4 hour job
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Btw. Have you ever found a table that shows you what gauge wire that should be used for the amount of wattage/current your going to be using/flowing?
Here's my go to for the absolute MINIMUM wire size for continuous loads. These are based on keeping wires from getting dangerously hot.
http://circuitcalculator.com/wordpress/wp-...td_975_wire.htm
Make sure you note the "derating" schedule at the bottom. Most folks do not use teflon jacket, so you need to adjust the parameters.
And for most applications, I then bump up a gage or two (numerically lower) to minimize voltage drop. But I like to start with the absolute minimum and go from there.
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http://order.waytekwire.com/cgi-bin/lansaw...WEBID(S0020):01
Waytek wire. I have been dealing with them for years, and have only the very, very best to say about them.
Great source for terminals, zip ties, relays, fuse blocks, wire, heatshrink, wire clamps, battery terminals, hose clamps, and the like.
They are a distributor for small manufacturers (like trailer builders and the like), but are also willing to deal with non-manufacturers as well. They sell in "smallish" bulk quantities and do have a minimum of about $5 per line item, so you usually end up buying 100 pieces or more of individual size electrical connectors. I do lots of vehicle wiring, so I can use the high volumes. Not exactly ideal for the individual, but if you have a place to store all the excess, it is a great deal! You can get 100 pieces for the same price you would pay for 5 or 10 locally. For instance, fuses. I just bought 100 (yes, 100) 10 amp standard fuses for $7.38. That is 7 cents apiece.... I will probably never have to buy any again fior the rest of my life!
HEY, B! Zip tie prices are awesome as well. I like the Hellerman/Tyton brand, and I dare you to find them cheaper! $1.50 for 100 of the little 4" guys? Beat it! I dare ya!
What I have been doing is getting the parts I absolutely need, and then buy a few more sizes and other parts. After a couple $100 orders, I have a HUGE inventory of electrical connectors in just about every size I could ever need.
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I'm with B. In Ohio, you may be able to find a complete vehicle with a salt rotted out chassis and a blown engine for free or next to nothing.... but a known good tranny outside of a vehicle usually commands a higher price.
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Wow! Just looked up ambitious in the dictionary and found your letter!
I do know folks have successfully transplanted SBC's in there. I believe AC even offered a kit to help.
Space is going to be a serious challenge - especially with a 4x4. The differential and steering are going to pose major obstacles for you. You may end up fabbing a custom oil pan to fit. Obviously, all of the exhaust piping is going to be extremely custom.
You can do a body lift and get a lot more vertical room. The suspension is torsion bar and the inner fender wells are non-structural, so that gives you a lot of latitude in making room horizontally.
Forward clearance for accessory drive and radiator will also require some creativity.
Bottom line, I think it could be done, but I foresee some real challenges!
And unfortunately, when you're all done you'll still have a short wheelbase vehicle that was not really designed for anything beyond casual lightweight towing. The auotmatic trans may prove to be a weak link. I believe the diff and frame are capable (assuming frame is rust free - which is iffy if they use salt in Jersey), but it will never be nearly as stable as a big ol' long wheelbase suburban, and will get the attention of every LEO you see as they will not believe that vehicle is capable of what you're doing. If they enforce GCWR limits in your state, you may be in legal violation as well.
All in all, I have to say the WD21 makes a far better off road truck than a tow rig. I used my pathy to haul a twin axle flat bed and the engine/suspensionless carcass of a full size G van across town, and I was far from comfortable. I also use it to push my 6000 pound travel trailer around the yard, but have never even considered trying to tow more than a couple hundred feet. The wheelbase is just too short for any stability, and the suspension is way too soft. Could it do it? Probably. But not a really good match.
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I've been putting these voltmeters in most of my rigs:
http://www.datel.com/data/meters/20lcd-01-dcm.pdf
Tiny, extremely accurate, easy to mount and wire in.
Only downside is no back lighting, but exact voltage is not something I need to monitor constantly.
They do have lighted versions if you're willing to do more research and wiring:
http://store.cd4power.com/cgi-bin/cd4power...58/Catalog/1043
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Just to rub SALT into the wounds (ooooooh, bad pun. My bad!), I still have 0 rust under the flares! No salt = no rust.
Another critical area to clean (and this applies to pretty much any vehicle) is behind the lower back corners of the front fenders. Open the door all the way and look down in there. It is likely packed full of dirt and debris, holding moisture that leads to rust through from the back side.
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http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....945&PTSet=A
<Quote>Unlike traditional new parts, Cardone Select CV axles are designed with CSE (CARDONE Select Engineered) Technology. That's a difference only CARDONE can give you.
Marketing 101:
That is a correct but absolutely meaningless statement.
Moog can't offer CSE Technology, as they would have to call it MSE (Moog Select Engineered) Technology. And that would be different, because they would have to use the word Moog instead of CARDONE. Get it?
Marketing jargon like that is not worth the ink it is printed worth. It is very possible everybody else offers the exact same part, exactly the same. You need to do your own research to know.
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Depends on the lunar phase and whether Britney is acting sane or not...
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Same wire diameter, same coil height, but one has coils closer together?
In order to accomplish that, there would need to be more coils, right?
Which means longer wire length, so YES. Well done, Grasshopper.
Be careful, you now know more about coil springs than 99% of your friends....
Next lesson: Progressive springs!
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RS5000's are not gas charged. They are actually quite primitive technology.... Basically an oversized Monroe base model shock with a flashy paint job. And ridiculous price tag.
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Yes, I believe you have captured the effect....
The why has to do with the moment arm. Think of lever arms.
How to demonstrate?
Got it!
A coil spring is nothing more than a straight wire spring wrapped in a coil to keep it compact. With enough imagination, you can see it.
So find a piece of wire and play with it yourself.
Say, like a 1/4" diameter rod about 3' in length. Clamp one end in a vice, sticking out horizontally. Hang a heavy weight on the end - how far does it move?
Now cut it in half and hang the same weight. Or just hang the weight in the middle of the rod. It will only move about half as far. Since it moves only half as far for the same amount of weight, that indicates the spring rate is exactly double.
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Good questions, and I'm always willing to help willing learners!
The metal alloy will affect spring rate, but when dealing with automotive coil springs, they are pretty much all of a similar enough alloy that it becomes a rather insignificant factor. It is usually assumed to be the same.
Keep in mind we're talking about spring rate here... A spring rate of 1000lb/in means the spring will compress 1 inch for every 1000 pounds you put on it.
The two geometric biggies affecting spring rate:
Wire diameter: Due to the geometry of a coil, the spring rate increases at a rate of the diameter change to the 4th power..... Yes, not linear, not squared, to the 4th power! That is why a .625 diameter is double the spring rate of a .52 diameter. Small change = big difference. Double the diameter, the spring rate goes up by 16x.
Wire length: This one will sound weird, but stay with me. The spring rate DECREASES an a perfectly proportional relationship to the overall wire length. The longer the wire, the lower the spring rate (softer spring).
The wire length is how long the wire would be if you uncoiled it.... For straight rate springs, the length is about pi*median diameter*number of coils. Pi is constant and the median diameter is pretty close to 4.7" for all pathy coils, so that is also pretty much a constant. Lo and behold, the significant factor is the number of coils!
That also means that if you cut a coil off, the spring will get stiffer. Honestly. 99% of folks don't realize that! So if you need to cut 2 or 3 coils off those long puppies to get them to a reasonable length, the springs will actually get stiffer. That is why el cheapo hack job ricer cars ride like they have no suspension at all - even if they're not riding on the stops. If you cut 1/3 of the spring off to make it 1/3 shorter, you are also making it 33% stiffer.
All that make sense?
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Those do sound like some kind of a lift spring.
Double check your measurements, 5 5/8" sounds way too big - should be about 5 1/4.
If they are 5 1/4" OD, you probably can cut them down to make them physically fit, but I'm afraid you're going to find them wayyyy too stiff.
If the wire is truly 5/8" in diameter (.625"), they are going to ride like an unloaded one ton truck. And I suspect they really are that big in diameter. Since the spring rate goes down as the total wire length increases, the designer would have had to increase the wire diameter to compensate.
Doing some quick math, a wire diameter of .63" will result in a spring more than twice as stiff as what you have now - ouch.
On the plus side, you could haul ALL your fat friends around and the rear of the truck won't be squatting much at all!
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or as my cop buddy says:
"That behavior is self correcting, no need to step in...."
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Hmmmm.... My Portugese is quite poor....
But if I was to guess, the name of that clip was "Cleansing the Gene Pool".
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I figured that, but at a lower output (30 amps by a 50amp alt and a 100amp alt) it required the same energy, correct? (assuming the same efficience rating)
If so, it seems like running a hire amp alt is the way to go; only pay for the extra power when you use it...
Hmmm... That is a good question! After all of 15 seconds of analysis, assuming they are of EXACTLY the same design, I would think the 100 amp capacity will be slightly more efficient at putting out 30 amps than the 50 amp as it should be running cooler. Electronics and conductors tend to lose efficiency as temps go up due to internal resistances.
But we're probably talking about a difference from 8% to 8.1% energy conversion efficiency!
How to: Prevent Fire (clean blower resistors)
in How-To's
Posted
Probably!
Like several of us have mentioned, this is definitely NOT something unique to pathies. Pretty much all vehicles have ventilation systems, and the vast majority use resistor packs to provide multiple speeds.