dernt
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Posts posted by dernt
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If you bore the center, they will fit. The pathfinder center bore is 100mm.
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Pezzy, Thanks for the heads up. I ordered one that was on clearance at a Nissan dealer, and I got it for 109.00 delivered. Well, I didn't get it yet, but hopefully the order goes through.
I received and installed the OEM one and it worked great. These have been discontinued by Nissan, but there are a few left in the US. If you are interested, go to your local Nissan dealer, and they can search on availability. If you want the one on Craig's list, that is a good deal and the brackets would be an easy fab. They are just 'L' shaped.
The Milford one would be the nicest if you are downunder.
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Pezzy, Thanks for the heads up. I ordered one that was on clearance at a Nissan dealer, and I got it for 109.00 delivered. Well, I didn't get it yet, but hopefully the order goes through.
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Here's the pics. This is the OEM Nissan cargo divider. I got it from my local Nissan dealer. I think I paid around $130.00
That's just what I want. Did you get that in the US? Was it a recent purchase?
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And another one
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MILFORD-CARGO-BARRI...A1%7C240%3A1318
I'd love to have one of those, but I am about as far away from that as one could get. I doubt I would be able to ship one of those to the US for a reasonable amount of cash.
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I'll probably go with the petsmart one, but those Aussie Pathy-specific ones are the ticket!
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That Australian one would be great. I'd like to find an OEM Nissan one also if they aren't uber-rare.
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Can anyone suggest a nice fitting well made pet barrier for the R50? My dog likes to trash my interior after going for a swim. I'd also like to hear what to stay away from if you've had some bad experience.
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Really???? Do we need to revive a 4-year-old post about a product that is no longer available?
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The OD of the oring on the pathfinder filter is 2.5". But I think the mounting surface on the engine is larger, so I think that kit will work. It sure would make oil changes easier.
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After some searching I found a kit that, according to the seller, should install without any issues. If the pictures are any indication this kit looks tough. Check it out:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...em=330307629000
Wondering what the general consensus is...
Looks like it should work. Might want to add 90° fittings on the engine adapter so the lines don't have to bend.
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If you are really set on changing your exhaust, go find a custom muffler shop to add in a flowmaster or dynomax and do the custom piping. You will save money and get similar results.
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"Dernt" has a set of Stillen headers on his VG R50...IIRC he didn't experience the power gain he expected but the exhaust after the headers plays quite an important role also. PM him, or maybe he'll chime in.
I've been away for a while. 02Silver is right on. I dynoed before and after with the Stillens and I had 138 RWHP both times. I also have the Stillen cold air intake which draw cold air from outside of the engine compartment, not one of these make shift underhood psuedo CAI. The intake was on both pre and post header dyno. I have stock mufflers, but I really can't imagine a muffler making all that much difference. Please don't chime in telling me how much more power you "feel" from your Flowmaster or Dynomax. Your car is louder and the rattling has affected your perception. If you have some quantification (dyno results) I'd like to hear it.
Save your cash, or spend it on something to make your rig more offroad capable. You aren't going to turn one of these into a street sleeper. Go with a spring lift kit if you don't already have one, or save up more money for an ARB locker.
My 2 cents.
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I just don't see the point in getting hyped about a different vehicle getting a major performance increase. This isn't a generic performance upgrade like slapping a turbo on would be, the performance gain of rewiring is based soley on how poor the stock grounds were. I don't really care how much of a gain Volvo had as that only goes to show that that vehicle came with very poor grounding, it doesn't do anything to show that the Pathfinder would get any sort of gain. So to answer your question, since this is such a vehicle specific upgrade I would accept it as a performance gain when I saw a dyno sheet of an R50 getting some sort of significant power gain.
And I would beg to differ, a gain is only worth it when it is cost beneficial. But then again I'm an accounting student.
Copper wire is cheap. Do it yourself, and you'll send less than 20 bucks. If nothing else, you won't have to wonder if it would work anymore. The piece of mind is worth the 20 bucks.
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I'm thinking the 2000- ARB will be close enough. Pezzy put a 96-99 TJM on her later model. I figure I can do the reverse.
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I would say with the right tools your existing bumper could be fixed.
That said, from what I understand, Jim @ Shrockworks would be willing to build R50 parts (I had looked into sliders a few years ago) if he had a test R50 to work with during the build.
Shrockworks said he is too busy and not accepting any custom work at this time. I offered to send my bumper to him, but he said no dice.
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looks like a rock or a stump or something small because it doesnt look like it was wider than the brush gaurd since it hit between it idk just a guess.
Er, no. It was another vehicle. It did not turn out well for that vehicle. Fortunately, all occupants were ok.
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Looks like my insurance is going to pay to replace it with the ARB. I might give straightening a try though first.
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I had a cool TJM T-13 on the front of my 97 pathfinder for the past few years. Last week, I was in a front end collision. The bumper saved the vehicle, but now it's all bent to hell. I am contacting Shrockworks to see if I can ship him my bumper and have him use it as a template to make another. I'll update.
the day I installed it, even before I hooked up the turn signals
today
I guess it's not the end of the world. Maybe it could be straightened some.
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The ATF fluid on the VQ is on the passenger side--or Right side when facing the engine. This sounds like the engine oil to me. The ATF fluid dip stick is metal and metal color and has a small bent clip that must be moved out of the way to pull the dipstick up.
The fluid level must also be checked on perfectly level ground with the engine and tranny 100% warmed up also.
When you are facing the engine, the passenger side is on the left. The passenger side of the vehicle is called the right side because it is taken from the driver's perspective. I know this is what you meant, but it's not what you said.
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Tmorgan, you are a stud. Did you have to go hydraulic steering for clearance, or do you think it would have worked with the stock steering?
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Thanks Fueler.
As he mentioned, I've got one already pulled and sitting in the shop. Yours for $50 + shipping.
Thanks for the offer, but I meant new or reman. I've got a used one, and it don't work.
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Anyone got a good source for an AC compressor. Mine took a dump and it's getting friggin hot.
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This sounds exactly the same!! A few months ago was the first time, but I though that I was just over attentive...but the other day I am damn sure it did it again!! Really weird! A 3/4 ratchet should be plenty to wail away!! Craftsman will help if I take it too far! Lol!
First check the battery and terminals. You should probably get a load test done on the battery. Most of the large autoparts stores have testers and do it for free. If the battery and the terminals check out, just change the starter. If you are a 16 year-old-kid living paycheck to paycheck, you might want to try carrying around a hammer, but the starter is only about $150 at autozone.
I thought it was kinda cool when I found it
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I have both the Stillen CAI and the Stillen headers on my 1997 VG33. I almost did a cash for clunkers on the vehicle. If the government does something like that again, I will part a bunch of stuff off this car before trading it in.